Mark Wetherbee

It ran good when I bought it but was low on compression and had not been driven much since the 1950’s going by an oil change sticker on my door jamb. So, I wanted to get any crud out of the oil pan, clean the rust debris from the cooling jacket and check the rings and valves before doing any serious driving. I decided to bite the bullet and replace the valves with modern ones as there wasn’t much left to the lands on the original set, but while inspecting the internals I found that the Babbitt was delaminating from the steel of the rods, thankfully the mains are brass shell inserts and were not falling apart. This was in a very quiet, non-smoking engine by the way! Surprise, surprise, Surprise as Gomer Pyle would say... So, out go the rods for Babbitt, thankfully the crank journals are quite round and clean as not to need grinding or my rebuilding costs would skyrocket... adding in a new set of Ross pistons & rings makes sense now as the head gasket is expensive and I don’t want to go back in anytime soon... Not a major rebuild, but sound work that will leave the engine looking as original as the rest of the car. as many have pointed out, expecting to do something with any car you buy is a smart idea, expect to do a lot more with these original cars!

This 1930 B model is for sale in Texas for $22k on the PAS website which is about where I’ll be after completing the work on my engine, and another in as good if not better shape than mine sold on eBay over the summer in the $20k range... if you are interested in an unrestored car and keep searching you will find one at a reasonable price...

Try John Cislak in Massachusetts, He should have one as I think he was parting out a car from that era recently. If you are a member of the Pierce Arrow Society, he has several ads in the classified section of the website, if not PM me and I’ll look up his number for you if you need.

15k steep??? Ya think? That is exactly what I paid for a complete, running 31 sedan! Granted I am working on its engine but 15k for an unknown short block seems ludicrously expensive IMO.

I don’t know about reproduction ones, but keep an eye out on eBay, Buick emblems are plentiful and I’m sure you will find one quite easily.

Snyder’s, a Model A and T vendor, used to make seat spring sets up if you had a pattern, they’d be a place to call and inquire.

The King Seeley unit wasn’t in the Ford cars until at least 32 or 33, but ended in only a few years. I think it was dropped in 36, but am no expert in those year cars. Someone might have a need for an authentic restoration and selling it on eBay would probably be the best way to get its value out of it. As Ed states, they are not a very good system but I think it’s more due to the barium fluids at the gage having chemical reaction issues with the materials that the gage is made out of. There had been a lengthy discussion on the Pierce Arrow Society members forum due to the fact that the gage fluid turns clear very quickly where one of our members has been doing extensive testing to see if he could find a solution. Even though every person selling replacement fluid has never heard anything about the issue (my way of calling BULL S**T to said vendors) the problem occasionally crops up here and on several Ford Forums which is in direct relation to Ed’s tung-in-cheek joke about them having been broken from the start... So, it’s probably worth selling and whoever gets it most likely knows the issues that exist with the system already, but adding that you cannot vouch for it working should help as well. Good luck

I sent you a message with a possible source for that information

I bet that her cell phone was also involved, fogged window sounds like an excuse for stupidity...

I can’t answer about the gun, but PAT is an American patented item, I’m pretty sure that Europe used REG for Registered... I would venture that the gun might have been advertised for automotive use, but it was made to pump grease into anything with a cup which included a lot of machinery.

Demons... My wife had a MG Midget for a few years that loved her and hated me. It was that simple, she could jump in it and drive 5 hours each way into Boston without any issues, then if I tried to go into town 10 miles away, it would have issues before I got there... I was so happy when it left our garage and not because it gave me more room! Some cars just have demonic tendencies...

Looks like someone fitted Ford rims to a Hupmobile axle and hubs.

I think TheMoneyPit gets this one...

I talked with Egge, Aries, and Ross about a set for my 31 Pierce Arrow before having read anything on this thread. I was surprised to hear about Egge having issues as they were the go-to place for many years, but even so, I was leaning towards Ross for the lighter forged pistons utilizing modern style rings which are vastly improved from what was original equipment. The price difference is less than $250 for the set of 8 and Aries were a few hundred more. I haven’t placed my order yet as I’m still thinking about the alternatives... A good discussion even though I don’t think we are helping the OP much.

Sorry about any confusion, there was no question it was a Dodge Brothers car in my mind so I didn’t add that in. Kaiser had missed by a year is all.

Looks like a Model A Ford crank handle. Someone will need it...

Hard choices, and not one answer up there works... If I can buy direct from another collector whether it was here, the PAS, the MTFCA, HCCA, Ford Barn, or a flea market, etc. I prefer it to eBay, BUT it’s not all that easy as those parts I seem to need are hoarded by the people who know what they are and how hard they are to replace... I was very lucky last spring and bought a lot of parts for my Pierce Arrow from a former owner of a similar car. These included a very scarce fuel pump, a decent hubcap, a complete distributor, a NOS cutout, and two NOS distributor caps with rotors for less than what a single fuel pump in worse condition sold for on eBay. But try as I might to find a used hood latch and spring for the same car and I come up empty. I wound up buying a used reproduction latch handle off eBay which was slightly modified for some reason but still can’t find the spring... at least the handle will look good for the time even if it doesn’t work right.

I was thinking Flint in the middle, but not sure...

Paid just now, thank you

With the cowl lamps and rectangular radiator emblem, I think it is a 28 Standard Six. Very similar, but minor detail differences.

I sent you a PM

Although not completely related, the South Bend Watch Company made a model named “Studebaker” but I don’t think there was much of a connection to the car company. That Buick watch has that 1970’s cheap pocket watch look to it. I have also seen a Pierce Arrow version of it for obscene money. I guess they are old enough to fool another generation of collectors...

Here’s a period keychain for that car... something I picked up along the way which was very obscure IMO

You might have to get an administrator to help move them. There’s also a way of canceling a thread that you started and then you can put them in the right place.

It sounds like you are selling, but you put your add into the parts wanted section???