Mark Wetherbee

Thank you for dating it for me. I found it today, it’s price is $60.00 if you want a spare and the spring looks a little less worn out than yours. Here’s the picture of the one I am talking about:

My 1926 Model T has every factory Ford, but dealer installed accessory that was available in that year plus a header clock and bud vases... makes it look more Model A-ish than anything. Wire wheels and bumpers were big sellers at the time.

Looks like some form of spring washer, similar to a Belleville spring but probably the grooves give a weaker thrust force. What year Buick? I think I have a similar timer somewhere in my flea market pile...

Adding to Grimy’s advice about these manuals, do not waste your time with any “flat rate” version, all those give are the hours you should be able to do the work in, and what to charge for that work... Totally useless! Keep a very close eye on eBay, I have found and bought the 1936 “Standard service manual” version that was mostly flat rate information but one or two tidbits which I have since found through the PAS Service Bulletins CD which is why I think it’s a useless book. Another one is a nearly mint copy of “Motor’s Factory Shop manual” for 1931-1937 cars which has a large section on PA as well as sections on individual systems which is handy. And finally a very helpful copy of a sales booklet for Pierce-Arrow Rockne and Studebaker cars service tools and equipment that is helpful if you are a mechanic who can look at a picture of a tool and understand how to use it. All three together cost less than $100 including shipping but I’ve also seen just the Motor’s manual priced in the $300 range, it just takes patience... One other book that has some small tidbits of information is the 16th edition of Dyke’s Auto Encyclopedia which I already had. I still think the best, most cost efficient information is to join the Pierce-Arrow Society, buy the CD, and ask the group for advice.

I’m guessing you are new to the Pierce-Arrows... I bought a 1931 Model 43 last year and quickly found out that no mechanical manual exists for them. Your best bang for the buck is to join the Pierce-Arrow Society and as a member you will be able to purchase a CD containing every one of the clubs service bulletins from the early 1960 to today. They have a tremendous amount of information on all year cars and are in a searchable PDF format. If you can, please post pictures of your car, here’s one I’ve posted several times here of my car

I would suggest you go somewhere like Dandy Dave’s description, and once you have it spliced together and fit to your vehicle call one of the driveshaft or clutch places to get it properly balanced. Just consider the vibrations - an out of balance driveshaft is very dangerous! There is a clutch and brake place in Bangor Maine that would do just the balancing for the customers who were customizing or chopping cars, a lot of larger truck places have the capability as well so they can stretch truck frames for specific applications.

Congrats, and I believe either Cordseaker or Duseyseaker should be next.

Maybe the HDOF? Historic Disintegration of Original Features. Or was that question just meant to spread sour milk?

I highly doubt you will ever hear back about this, that username only made 3 total postings here, two of which are on this very thread, and were 9-1/2 years ago...

It would certainly take nearly unlimited funding, but you would not have another one show up and park next to you...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-Ford-Other/264619579652?hash=item3d9c8e5904:g:pkkAAOSwfsReNaH7 After the discussion of radically modified cars I just couldn’t resist....

Forget Cooper, I want to find the money...

Depends on whether you are the pilot or not...

Had a chat with Matt the other day and sent in my reservation for a spot. I have a bunch of 20’s Ford stuff to clean out and hopefully some Pierce-Arrow parts to find at the meet. If I find time I will try and post some pictures once I get some of this junk out and priced... My wife actually WANTS to join me... so we are looking forward to seeing the area as well. I can imagine there’s lots of history there, hopefully not too many shopping opportunities...

Why does Ralph Nader and a Chevrolet Corvair come to mind???

I would give Restoration Supply a call, I think it may be in their listing here: https://restorationstuff.com/shop/#fb0=37

Well, I wasn’t expecting that! DustyCrusty nails it, a more modern adapter for wires. THANK YOU!

The shape is definitely Essex, but I’m stumped on what years this would be for. It’s been kicking around under a bench and I’m thinking that maybe someone needs it... Update, Kaiser is right about the shape, it isn’t normal for Essex... so now the question is if anyone recognizes what it’s off??. Thanks for looking!

To expand on Grimy’s comment, as a member you can also purchase a CD that has ALL of the PAS service bulletins going back to the early 1960’s in a searchable PDF format. As a new owner of a 31 they have been quite helpful in getting mine back together. One thing I would go looking for first is grounding issues with your lights, being restored at some point I would expect new wiring has been installed. If not, I would suggest a new harness which is a bit of work, but will lessen your chasing the dreaded gremlins around. Good luck, it’s a beautiful looking car!

Definitely should have been a Crackerjack toy, the car was! I drove one for 3 years and popped three engines. They had a tendency to melt the piston once the emissions controls were added. The final straw was when I was driving home from work on a slushy road when the rusty floor under my feet dropped down filling my lap with salty slush at 45 MPH. It was an excessively COLD ride the rest of the way home that night!! 🥶 By the way, that is a really nice toy, and you made it look great.

Thank you! As you can imagine, the original was not the best quality and from the mid 60’s. that dark-light streak is probably from exposure to sunlight over the last 50 or so years. I thought these were lost after my parents had both passed, but my brother had tripped across them and surprised me last September. Thanks to your work I now have a new avatar...

That’s why I’m wearing head protection...

Well, who’d a thunk a kid would go from sitting on dad’s hood, to a grease monkey, then become an infamous Speed-Racer fan... Dad did everything to get my brothers and I into old cars, but it only afflicted me. I kinda wish he kept the T-Bird, and I might like that Quarter Midget back too. But should I ever loose the memories it would be the worse loss of all...

On another thread someone is trying to pass off new reproduction shift knobs as vintage, and after making a nasty reply another forum member and I were accused of not tolerating that side of the hobby. It’s not true... while I personally prefer the pre 1940 original cars I also have many friends with rat rods as well as some with restoration-mods. one friend with a rodded Rockne kept looking at my Model A and saying it must make me cry to see his cars, actually he had more vision and talent than I did as the car was really nice. It takes as much talent and money to restore the 1972 Ford Pinto I thought was junk in my high school years as older cars and might even be a little harder to find parts for because nobody would have expected them to be desirable (and I blew up three engines in that Pinto leaving less around). Heck, I got interested in the old cars because of the mid 60’s Mustangs which you could really hop up from stock without much money back when gasoline was well under $1/gallon. As Modeleh says above there’s an ass for every seat, but there’s always going to be some friction between the camps especially if you are trying to pass it off as something that it isn’t. Just think about keeping the original parts for that point in time you might like to reverse it to stock, or sell them to someone who wants to stay stock.