raydurr

My 1929 Master gets 15W-40 diesel oil plus a can of STP. My engine in far from new or fresh. Engines with wear don't mind heavier oils. If not using a multi viscosity oil I would use SAE 40. I am not sure how important zinc is with my roller cam followers. I would supplement with zinc to be safe for sure. Theres my 2 cents worth.

I haven't encountered much from the era of this cars production that was very hard. Id be surprised if the pin is harder than a Grade 5 bolt.

The base and lever housing look 1930.

To begin , the factory 1929 Buick manual brake adjustment procedure , even though correct is very confusing. You could adjust through basic reasoning if certain baseline criteria are meet. One overlooked area of easy braking is clevis pins. most are rusty or sticking. Each rod or cable will utilize them. All clevis pins must float freely for optimum results. Return springs in the original places are a must. The brake linings need to be of the exact same material and be the same age. Soft weave is best. Make sure no rods or linkage components have been modified. Each wheel on my 29 has various adjustments to some degree. It is trial and error at some point. I frequently check the brake drum temperature with my hand after each drive.

In my 1929 Master I run 600W from MACs in the transmission and the differential. I think the transmission is 2-3 quarts and the differential close a gallon. I'm not really sure on the refill capacity. The heavy 600W is really the only lube I have used that allows easy shifting. It also slows down on leaks some.

My 29 had no felt in the cup area. It does have a leather boot that was secured with wire. It encases the the area where the ball and cup articulate. It protects the surfaces from exposure to road elements. I do see in the cutaway about what appears to be a felt strip in the cup area where it contacts the ball.

It appears to be a Master series engine.

Look at ebay item 263309506403. I am not sure if the chassis shown will have parts you may need.

Is the differential overfilled? If so , excess should go out the spout on the backing plate , unless some of the bearing shields or other sheet metal parts are damaged or missing. Make sure spout is clear and not blocked. If replacing the seal, silicone could be applied between the brake drum and the shield attached by the 6 bolts. This may slow the leakage some. There is no seal between the axle shaft and axle housing. I have never experienced a leak from inside the hubcap. Was the axle nut loose?

Where is said oil coming from? These old rear axles always seem to leak some. The only seal is a felt seal which allows seepage but prevent dirt and other contaminants from contacting the bearing. In photo 3 the lower part is the felt seal. Any lube that gets past it is captured by a shield that directs it to a drain spout on the other side of the backing plate, just below the axle housing tube. The rear wheel bearings are lubed by chassis grease upon assembly then topped of with a grease gun through the 1/8" NPT plug in the hub.

It appears that the used axles have had a rough life. The keyway has either been wallowed out or were cut poorly without the correct machining process. The cracks make me think the axle may have been welded then machined to a taper at some point in its life. I think due to the nature of the repairs shown , these parts are subject to fail if used very much. There should be a member on here that could direct you to a qualified machine shop that could duplicate your axle shafts. If going with new axles you may want the machine shop to inspect your hubs. If your hub keyways are worn , perhaps they can go up to the next size eliminating the worn areas.

Ok, it is normal for the shaft to have a quite a bit of free play. The roller bearings inside the hub is what keeps the axle shaft centered when the hub is installed.The roller bearing runs on the axle housing .

Did you remove the wheel hub , leaving only the tapered shaft?

Terrell Machine will rebuild your pump for $75-85 . They will check linkages and test the unit. They are super fragile. I would consider letting a pro do it.

Well you guys working on splasher type engines changes the rules some. My 29 is crude but very similar to a modern oiling system. 25-30 psi on a used Master series engine is more than adequate for many more miles.

Bob , years back when building modified SBC engines , I would shoot for .0025-.003 clearance. I avoided using a gasket and aimed for perfectly flat mating surfaces. If a gasket is required , thin is better and less likely to rupture. The Chevy gears are different size from your Buick but this gives you and idea. The larger the gear the more clearance the pump can handle before volume then pressure goes down. Be careful about removing too much material. Its best to use a lapping block or lapping plate. If too much clearance , sand the housing , if not enough sand the gear height down. Its not rocket science. Be sure to check oil pump mounting surface and all those soldier connections on the oil piping , if yours has them. Take time with the bypass valve and spring.

Your original bolts may be equal to todays Grade 2 bolts. My 29 has many original bolts. They are very soft compared to todays Grade 8. If switching to Gr 8 hardware I would do a trial assembly carefully bringing torque up to recommended specs for that particular grade fastener. My concern is that the threads in the rod may not be capable of holding the torque required for proper bolt stretch. If a bolt isn't torqued or stretched correctly at assembly there is a risk or it backing out or failing from fatigue. If all rod threads hold I would definitely use genuine locktite on the threads and discontinue use of the original lock washers. Also watch for threads bottoming in the thread bore.

I am aware that the 29 manifolds can be flipped. The manifolds shown are not Buick six. I think 1930 was the last year of the six.

I don't know what the indicated device is. I would like to know the origin of the intake and exhaust manifolds. Are there any casting numbers on them?

Hubert , all is well now. I located a good used speedometer cable , housing and driven gear. I never had to pull that darned u joint. Thank you for asking.

Brian is right. My 29 will not shift correctly with modern lubes. The heavier the better my tranny likes it.

Modern oils can withstand much higher temperatures before breaking down than 1932 oils. Why not purchase a quality infrared temp gun and monitor the oil temperature during operation without the cooler. I feel that under moderate load and a properly operating cooling system you will find low oil temperatures especially with the large sump. This method poses little risk.

Good luck on your restoration. In the event that you may need a fuel pump , please contact me. I have a few ready to go. Thanks

Poor engine has had a hard life. Now would be a great time to remove freeze plugs and remove all scale in the water jackets and passages. I bet there is a coffee cup of scale behind #6 cylinder. Dig and flush all the scale and debris out now. If the welds seep a little, a tiny bit of stop leak will seal it off.