dibarlaw

We bought a 1969 Buick LeSaber Convertible in 1973. At the time it showed 26,000 miles or so. I could not understand why it was having (older car problems). I put on new rocker arm assembly at around 40,000. Later I worked as the body man for the Buick dealer where I bought the car. The mechanics laughed when they told me why my 1969 showed so low a mileage. They said the car had over 70,000 when traded in. They rolled it back. Then, the boss's son would always drive a convertible to Florida. He drove mine twice to Florida with the speedometer disconnected. The odometer showed 145,000 when I sold it in 1979. Working in the Body shop of the Lincoln Mercury dealer in our town, I overheard a heated argument with one of the mechanics and the owner. The owner threatening the mechanic with his job if he did not turn back mileage on a 1966 Cadillac destined for the Perryopolis Auto Auction. I remember us driving 4 cars in caravan to the auction. The return car was a new 1974 Mercury Grand Marques. I remember that I drove a 70 Torino. Another car that went was a Gold 1968 Pontiac GTO. On the trip out part of the wiring harness on the Cadillac fell on the exhaust pipe, melted and shut it down. Justice? Ah.. Memories.

I just pulled the red rubber inner tube from the petrified 600X22 Riverside that was the spare on my 1925 Master. Most of it stuck to the inside of the tire. So all I have are shreds. I believe with about 6 patches. I sent a 22" rim to friend Hugh in Texas. The rim and tire I rolled from the Orange Field to our spot in the Chocolate Field. It had a 4.95X22 GENERAL tire probably from the 1930s. Neat tread pattern. When I removed it from the split rim I thought what ever was left inside would be toast. I pulled out a very nice Dayton tube (no patches) which was grey. After I washed it the grey turned to brown. I put a new valve in and it has held air for 2 months!. The flap I pulled out of the Riverside was beautifully made with woven rubber/canvas fabric covered with soft felt facing the tube. This type of flap would be tremendously easier to manipulate than the heavy rubber flaps available now.

pepcak: This is what the finished product looks like. I removed the ball stud, made a split collar to mount in the 3 jaw chuck. I was able to remove about .030 to straighten and true up the diameter. I fit a bushing that I made a press fit over the turned surface. I then set up the arm on the drill press so I could drill out the out of round/tapered hole to a true diameter. I then turned the bushing on the pin to an interference fit for the hole in the arm. I pressed the pin to the arm then had it welded.

Brad: The ball itself is hardly "ovalled" only about .025. When I weld the bushed/finished stud back in I will just index the ball to the least worn area The ball is case hardened. The stud shaft surface turns well. I just have to figure how I will set up the arm to properly line bore it.

Joan and I are planning to be there with the 1937 so we have back seat available.

Thanks for the reply Rod. I was able to remove the ball stud. I was able to chuck up on the ball with a center on the opposite end. With the arm resting on the lathe carriage I was able to slowly turn off the peened over edge. The photos show how it was worn. The largest diameter on the pin is .631 the smallest diameter on the end toward the shoulder is .566. A 90 degree measurement is .610, .044 out of round. The arm bore tapers from .669 to .639. In other words pretty sloppy. Back to the lathe... Larry

Since we have had this spring like weather I thought I would sort out the sloppy steering on the 1925-Master. My friend Pete who trailered it home for me thought that the steering rod adjustment just needed attention. Wrong! The pitman arm ball stud was very loose and had worn out the arm forging. Now oversized /out of round and tapered hole. It appears that when the former owner worked on the car in the 1960s the ball stud was already loose. The outside end was peened over and a lot of center punch marks to hold in place. Has any one else dealt with this issue on their car? According to the master Parts book # 254998, forging #255066 was only used on the 1925 master and 1926 master first type. I also find some looseness in the King Pins Part # 188975. They appear to be the same from 1924 6 cylinder,1925 master up to 1931 80 and 90 series. I know that these are available from Bob's My thoughts on repair would be to grind out he misshapen rear end to remove the stud. Bore out the arm to true the hole. Make a bushing then try to find a compatible hardened ball stud to refit. In the 1925 Book of parts these Ball studs are a replaceable item (at least in the Standard book). The 1931 Master book only shows the complete arm as being available. $3.00! That would still represent several days wages to many who still had a job in 1931.

Doug: The Foundry we are consulting is ... Hildebran Designs, Inc. 386 Center Conway Road Brownfield, Maine 04010 Phone: 207-935-3729 Web: www.hildebrandesigns.com

D. The heater hose strap was attached to this location when I bought the car in 1987. I have seen it attached to the push rod cover also. I grabbed my camera then remembered that I no longer have the car out in my garage (working on my 1925 Master) it is stored a block away. I did a search on ebay for 1937 Buicks for sale as there is usually a lot of photos and video with the ads. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Buick-Other-Special-Sedan-AACA-Natl-1st-Place-Nice-VIDEO-/162393931392

37: Here are some of mine. There are many more if you do a forum search. If you need any specific location I could take some.

PM sent

After 3 weeks and no other responses I am assuming that there is no interest in getting more people on board for these handles. Hugh and I thought we would try a foundry in Maine since they already had seen what we wanted. They have my originals for both the 1925 Standard and 1925 Master for bidding process. If we are not using this foundry then I would like for them to send my originals back. The more pieces cast would bring the cost down as the cost of the mold is the greatest expense. Unfortunately he only does these in silicon bronze so there is still the plating expense. Now we are still looking at other options. There are a few that will do stainless but they have not gotten back to us. One reason we considered them is that they also have the molds for the floor board thimble and the spark and throttle gears.The problem is that the original owner of the mold has not responded for permission of use. That would make the cost much more reasonable. Otherwise he can make a new mold which to us was much too expensive.

If that same 5th from the right has an extended lifting tab I may be interested. Something like the photo below.

I wanted to emulate my friend Larry (he is our hero) but we went from snow and 20 degrees on Wednesday to 63 and sunny on Thursday. So I took both cars out and gave them some exercise. Today, 45 and raining.

Amen Brother!

Thriller: Good luck. Going into the produce business?

Hugh: I believe that ford40 had since sold the 1921 and has a 1931 Buick now.

Dave: I bow to your skill! Gary got it also. I went directly to my file of 1915 cars and thought it a C-37 as wishful thinking. The C-25 is second from the top in the photo. I must pay attention and should have known since I have about 20 photos of the 1915 C-36 that I bid on at the R/M auction. The purchaser (once removed) did get on the forum once to introduce himself and was not heard from again. The catalog photos are not of an angle to show the crank thru the radiator. So I did an oops.

Last time I was at the YORK History museum they had books on sale at the gift shop on the history of the Pullman and all the existing cars. I lent my copy and it has not come back yet. Larry

Photos from last years show.

This Larry agrees with Larry as the set up at Allentown was the most successful arrangement I had ever experienced!

Yes 1915 C-37. The plate shows a 1920 date. The car looks to have a nice new top. The original top does not have the gypsy sides as shown here. Larry

Yep, definitely 1927 engine. Look at all those bent push rods!

June 3rd, 2017 Mechanicsburg, PA Mason-Dixon Chapter and Freysinger Buick will host their 9th annual Buick Show at Freysinger Buick/GMC, 6251 Carlisle Pike, Mechanicsburg, Pa. Peer judging with 9 Buick Classes, 3 awards per class. Two classes for GM other makes, two classes for non-GM makes, all-inclusive modified class, 3 awards per class. Best of Show-Buick, Best of Show-other makes, Dealer’s Choice Buick, Long Distance, Oldest Car. Dash plaques to the first 75 entries. Registration 8:30-10:30. Show 9-3. Advance registration $10 until May 25th, $12 day of show. Contact, Larry DiBarry 717-263-3804, dibarjo@hotmail.com or Dick Beckley 717-395-7128. dbeckley@epix.netMason Dixon BCA - June 3, 2017 Freysinger Show Flyer.docx

Bob: From what I recall when I had to remove the hood to re-core the radiator there was a simple clip with a threaded stud. The pain was getting around the radio to loosen and then reattach the nut under the cowl. I always have to give my hood a shove back before I close it. Mostly due to slight misalignment from the nose piece/grille locating pins. Larry