dibarlaw

BTT

Brian: Congratulations on solving your issue. I had gone thru all as you are doing trying to prep for the tour last year. New coil, wires, plugs etc. I picked up a new repro cap on Ebay for $15.00. Used the best of 4 old rotors and points that looked like new. I also did a new condenser. The engine ran like crap. Then I posted about the forked lead on the new style unit shorting to the breaker plate. I fixed that and it still had problems. Replaced the old condenser and it is running OK. Gremlins you say.....

On the white car it does appear to be have the proper sport roadster equipment. Not sure how McLaughlin may have allowed for a different color but not all white! Also, Paul Rose has an unrestored example of the 1923 model 54 in VA. I took these photos at Hershey 2011. Original top, upholstery and side curtains! It had a great write up in the AACA Antique Car magazine.

John: I alerted Joe Kidd in MD since he has a model 39 he is working on with Truarc wheels. This what I wrote him. Joe: Lamar Brown {Mr. Earl} posted on a Buicks for sale thread these photos. Thought you would like to see what this car with Truarc wheels look like restored. I like it! Of course I would like the wheels to be the Chinese Red. Also to have the Burbank (tan) top. It may have been a look alike model 39 made from a model 34. I would have to see the dash since it would have the white instruments and the walnut spoke steering wheel which it does not appear to have. It does have the nickeled radiator shell, the visor, but not the wind wing mounts on nickeled windshield stanchions. Nice looking car none the less. I still am anxious to see yours. Best Regards: Larry

The photos Lamar posted are of a 4 cylinder model 39 sport roadster with Truarc disk wheels. I like it. Photo below is of a model 39 at the Portland meet. The first photo of the white car depict a 6 cylinder model 54 sport roadster. The photo is of the one I tried to buy in Vermont and later was a Bugle cover car. Period Ad with the wire wheels.

Can I make it a fourth? Welcome aboard and look forward to meeting you in Brookfield. Larry DiBarry

Lamar: These are for the 1938 rear fender. Gravel deflectors/shields. Same as on my 1937. Larry

Experience with my 37 has told me otherwise. On my drive home with it in 1987 from Hollidaysburg to Chambersburg PA, I had a pull to the left when braking. The clutch went out 57 miles into the ride home with 38 more miles to go. Roll back home and then pushed into the garage. I put it on jack stands and started to do some work. 25 years went swiftly by..... When I started to get back to work on it the left front brake drum was seized up. After I removed the drum there were 3 broken springs. All new springs have been installed since.

Thanks Brian : I have included this in our next Mason-Dixon Newsletter.

BTT

Brian: I just remembered to make the reservations.... Done.

When I worked for our Buick dealer in the 1970s he still insisted on us calking all the chrome strips where they were on the body panels. We used a squirt oil can filled with undercoating. That was understandable when the 40s,50s and the 60s cars still had metal clips and thru bolts to hold the trim to the body. Prior to working there I bought a 1969 LeSabre convertible from them. They had the rear convertible top stainless molding caulked. The top boot had thin plastic tabs that were to slide under that molding. What a mess to clean all that stuff out!

Marie: I also copied this and posted on the AACA - Studebaker forum site. These look to be very good quality restorations. Hope there is some interest.

Gary: What style of lower control arms do you have? Mine are the 1936 style without the replaceable bushings. I had to jury rig mine to be able to get it aligned. I drove in fitted brass wedges as an expedient. I did that prior to my trip to South Bend in 2013. After 7000 miles I have not lost any of the wedges. I purchased a set of new lower control shafts and that is when I found out they were different. I have a later set of arms to exchange that will take the ones with the bushings. I just do not feel like tearing apart the whole front end to replace them at this time. Larry

Not mine. 2 cars for sale in North Central PA. See the AACA Buy/ sale section.

carmover: I can not tell what the image is from your photo. Detail is blurred. I hope someone else can help since I can not get to my car and dig in to check. (Rotator Cuff surgery) It really limits ones ambition! Larry

Many of the custom cars for Hollywood royalty such as Chaplin were done by the Don Lee studio. One may check on that lead. I remember in one of my Floyd Clymer books that had some reference to the Don Lee Company.

I asked Marie if she needed help in posting the photos but apparently she has mastered it! Very nice looking cars. Studebakers are quite a good tour car for the era. She indicated that they have not been driven since before her fathers passing. Last time the cars were operated was in 2011. If I were not a Buick guy I would love to look in to these beauties.

Carmover: The gears in the side pocket of the transmission may be gummed up. They will need to be cleaned and lubed. If you have a lot of free play the return spring may be broken in the crossover box. Our mechanism for the 1925 Standard is different than the Master as Kevin has shown in his photo. The principals are all the same just different design of parts. The other photo is what these starter gears looked like after I lost one of the clutch facings. Everything in this side case should be cleaned, gears able to spin, and slide on their shafts. Good Luck : Larry

Most of the original photos I have seen show Black wires. The photo is of a 1928 Sport Roadster I judged at Portland. The oak colored wires look period for pre 1920 cars. The person I bought my 1925 from had the Oak (yellow) wires on it. When I detailed my engine I did black.

I believe with the spare stuff I got with my Master there is a good useable shaft I can send you. The die cast distributor case is junk. On the Master, the son of the previous owner said that his dad and uncles worked up an IHC(DELCO) unit as a replacement. Almost identical to your worn example. It works great. And a plus is that the cap, rotor, points and condenser are off the shelf from NAPA. All together less than a set of original style points. I replaced the die-cast unit in my standard with a later cast iron one like you show. It just dropped in and works great. My old standard die-cast unit on the right. Cast iron on the left. Larry

I would agree with Don. On my USA original there is the steel arbor to do this to. I have not seen what Skip Boyer or Bob's looks like. BOB'S on line catalog may have an image.

BTT

Pete: Those are not 37 Handles. At least they are not what is on my car. I took my spare with a split knob and removed it. There is a steel cap on the inside. I drilled it out with a 5/16" drill. Then I drove the steel core stem out with a 1/4" punch. They may have been swaged to the counter bore on the back side.

Pete : The plastic knobs snap in. Pressed in. Being 80 years old some of my spares have the knobs crumbled off. Of course they are destroyed when the handle is being plated. I will check for you. Larry