dibarlaw

I went with Terrys suggestion on EvapoRust with my 1937 after it overheated badly on our aborted trip to Springfield. I drained the system filled with ER ran it till hot 3 times over a period of one week. What came out was coal black. What settled in the 10 gallon tub was 2 handfuls of scale and crud. Unfortunately the radiator was already packed solid with what left the block prior to this. I did do a re-core. 2 years latter things are still clean. Drove to Allentown last year in 95 degree temps with stop and go traffic. Temp gage did not go above 185 deg. I did install a GANO filter so as not to have anything get back into that new $$ core. I cleaned the filter twice since and always get a few bits of crud.

Hugh: Thanks for making the contact on this. Yes. It does look prettier than the Aluminum one I made for Beulah.

Dave: I will be doing inventory this week in preparation for the trip to Brookfield. Deleting the (before the cooling system clean out) extra 2 gallons of coolant I carried. I will only have 1 gallon. In addition to what Matt just posted I know I have a fire extinguisher, complete distributor, coil, fuel pump, carb, spare belt. I also carry a 5 gallon gas can in case there is a non ethanol fuel available. I have to record mileage between fills since my gage just bounces around 1/4 tank. Another good reason to carry some spare fuel. Larry

For reference this is what the longer 1924-45 body frame looks like. The "dog leg" in back of the rear door looks like some one carved it from a solid piece. I remember finding the photo on the net. Hugh has many photos of the wood from his 1925-25 in which the structure would be similar. There would be a cross member on the rear tub? Or they may be located with the 5 vertical members of the rear tub to mount the 3/8" X 18 tpi trunk bumpers. I have several of them in poor shape. If it would be me I would turn them up out of stainless

I first visited the Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village (It was not "The Henry Ford" then) in 1966. My dream as an 11 year old was to someday be able to attend one of the Old Car Festivals. To be able to participate with a suitable vehicle was also a dream gotten close to reality. It took 50 years but last September thru the generosity of Larry and Joyce Shramm, my wife and I were finally able to experience this unique event. It was truly one of the highlights of my life. How we were saddened to see the changes that were to be instigated for the coming events. I hope the recent communications are a step back in the right direction. Larry

My first thought is a Buick Model D. Second thought it matches illustration for 1909 Model 17

Thanks Terry. I will remember that when I need to talk with Barbra about any similar issues. A big concern with these cars of course is the condition of the wood. From what is left of the wood framed trunk platform I will assume that there is not much wood that is sound in the structure.

Dave : Glad to hear from you and good to see the RR saga is coming to a satisfactory conclusion. Larry

By the looks of the condition of the tires and mismatched sizes this may have been put away during WW II. It has the correct color combination. 2 1/2 hours away.....Hummmm.... No!.. I .....must.... not.... be..... tempted...

David : I think that you are in the ballpark with the lowered price. The 1925 Buick Master 6 touring I bought last October sat for only 5 years before the family tried to get it running again. Poor fix up restoration from the 1970s. Still needs a good bit to get it reliable. My friend who helped us get it running in 2012 for the family offered $7,500 then. They turned it down expecting over $15,000. They had some offers from others over the next 4 years. I really was not looking for another project but when they called to see if I were interested I made an offer. Based on what I knew had to be done and then factoring for some unknowns I offered $5,500. They called my bluff! It is at least allowing me to tool around town while I keep sorting things out. Photo of the day we brought it home. Photo below is 2 days later after some clean up and adjustment. Best of luck with the sale. Larry

I checked this morning and the choke had closed to the 1/16" opening. It only went down to around 60 degrees last night. Here are a few pages from the Buick Service bulletins that relate to adjusting the choke.

Yes Brian I would have loved to have joined you folks. The 1925 is still unwilling to tour. I tried to take it the 50 miles to our Mason-Dixon Car show on the 3rd. 5 miles and all is well. Then the popping and backfiring dance. Limped and played with the carb about 10 times and made it 8 miles before we turned around and headed back home. Same on the return trip until we got back in the city limits then she seemed to run better for a while. Oh well our Huskie Jaffee had an interesting ride. He was somewhat befuddled with me jumping in and out of the car though.

I had to connect to scanner with a USB cable before it would work. Always worked remotely before. Need to troubleshoot. Here are the Pages from the Delco manual. I hope this helps others with these types of units. Sorry. A little of my scanned cobalt blue still on the glass.

Gary: Spent the afternoon doing as you have done with the Delco choke unit. I made my own gaskets. I have a lot of practice doing stuff on my 1925 Buicks. Thank you for your inspiration for me to do mine. I installed the unit and timed the opening to full. About 5 minutes. The chart in the manual indicates that these units should go to full closed at 50 degrees F. I think the choke butterfly shaft is still binding a bit on mine. I set the link in the center hole as when the unit is at rest it leaves the butterfly open about 1/16". I did use high temp silicone sealer on the unit to manifold gasket. I will see if the choke is closed in the morning. Larry

Gary: I wanted to add the Delco Remy service notes from their service manual of 1/11/37. It goes into quite a bit of detail including disassembly, service and adjustment. Modern technology is not cooperating as the scanner refuses to communicate with the computer today. I will add the images when the computer straightens up and flies right! Going by your photo essay I will do the same with my Delco 2 cylinder model 498H. As I was looking at my unit before I removed it today I noticed that it was hanging up at the choke butterfly. If the air cleaner screw clamp is to tight it will cause some binding. Also the butterfly shaft on my BD-1 is very sloppy which can also cause binding when being pushed or pulled by the choke linkage. I wanted to make some shim bushings to remove some of the shaft play and smooth operation The butterfly can only be removed with the top of the carb removed. I do not want to disturb this as I feel that the top casting has already been tightened down to its limit and the screw mounting bosses are a bit fragile. I also have the Buick service bulletins that show the Marvel BD-1. The 1937 Buick service manual only shows the Stromberg. I will let you know how mine comes out. Larry

26-25 As someone who has chased some of these cars (and not caught any) I understand your concerns. The 1912-35 in the ebay ad looks to be head and shoulders above in condition the model 29. At least it seems that the goal was correct originality of restoration. The several Brass era Buicks I went after were all older to very older restorations being offered in the $20 to 30 thousands range. (2) 1913-model 31s and a 1910 model 10 runabout. The one model 31 I offered $15K. It was not running, cracked peeling paint etc. The person it sold to for around $20K put more money into it to make it a tour car and then lost the transmission the first day out on that tour. (the original seller told me that 2nd gear was a bit touchy.) I saw it for sale at fall Hershey for $28,000. I believe it went to England. The other model 31 I believe still has not sold since they were trying for around $32,000. In need of a top, not running, with much jury rigging on engine and electrical. The vinyl walnut contact paper on the dash made it look nice. The model 10 was 1 1/2 hours away in Virginia and looked very nice. The owner wanted to start at $20,000 and "dicker" up? But, it had not been run in over 5 years at the time and the more I shared information about it the more it appeared to be a compilation of parts. Notice the incorrect front axle and 1911-12 radiator shell. Also incorrect spark and throttle quadrant on steering column. My last contact with the son of the former owner (as he has since passed) was last April 2016. He is concerned that some one will "hot Rod" it!

The evolution of body design also dictates what looks good on a particular vehicle. What may look bizarre on an early to mid 1920s car looks very appropriate on a 1930s car. The 1925 Buick Master Sport Touring was in Sage Green.

I found some darker blue that the former owner had painted the car under the hood lacing. I had the local Nason paint distributor match some paint to do a test panel. A much nicer Blue.

Gary: Great photo essay! I am still bummed that the wheels are not Hampton gray. I thought you would have striped them before putting on the new tires.

Rod: The model 49 was offered in limousine blue which is a beautiful blue that I could live with. This is a 1924-49

The photo of the front of the car shows what looks like 1926-1927 tilt ray headlights. Screw on the bottom of Bezel.

Rod: Yes I would also have problems living with that color! I am still trying to come up with the correct shade of "Cobalt Blue" for my 1925 Master. The former owners son said that his dad painted it what he thought was Cobalt Blue in the 1970s then changed it to the "Robins Egg Blue" that is on it now. Which I can not live with. I have seen 4 different examples all indicating Cobalt Blue and each color is a bit different. Photo of a 1925-45 with original (faded paint). Repainted hood and front fenders. And recently restored 1925 Master coach.

John: It looks more like a salmon color. Not my cup of tea.This is surely the whim of the restorer as they were black. Not to say a lavender metallic 1969 Cadillac is not lovely to look at. Thank you for coming to our 9th annual Mason-Dixon Buick show! Larry

Gary: Thank you for your info on the Meropa product. It is good to know there are other options for the 600W "Steam Cylinder" oil I am still using in my 1925 Buicks. The reason? I still have a 5 gallon can of it and it should keep me for a number of years. Larry

Pretty nice looking model 47 Plain back. Radio delete. Looks to have the "Monster" Marvel Carb (not the BB1 as is on mine.) and heavy duty air cleaner. Rear plate indicates Kentucky.