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Everything posted by Beemon

  1. Ben, thanks for the kind words! My "rebuilt" steering box has 120 degrees of play in it, so I am adapting a different steering box. Yes, should make for easy mounting. It's just old state farm, nothing really special. The guy was really nice, he worked with me to make sure it was 100% accurate and he submitted the invoice for damages and then I got paid on the spot. I did come with price quotes ahead of time for all the parts I would be needing, and I think that helped a lot. I did not get the pitman arm, but considering how the adapter looked, I don't think I'd want to use it either. I don't have the capability to manufacture these but if I can make an engineering drawing for people to look at and get the bolt pattern from, that would probably be enough. If I do a small run, I'd have to outsource through a different company and probably wouldn't have control over the price.
  2. I've finally got all my eggs in one basket for this. This is the mockup prototype flange to adapt the 99-04 Jeep Cherokee box. I'll most likely laser cut the test piece using card stock to make sure it bolts up correctly. Once I have the dimensions correct, I'll 3D print the piece and then move on to plasma cutting the flange and doing the necessary busy work.
  3. Today was a rather pleasant day, and my luck has finally turned around. The car was valued in its current condition (special thanks to paint!) at $12000, and the damage appraised was $3700, about 31% of the total damages. Which means I was cut a check for $3200 after the deductible, $300 above what I was quoted for including parts, shipping and paint. I guess I shouldn't be too terrified of the insurance company, they really pulled through on this one! The best part is that I was looking to replace the hood, grill and mustache bar at some point because all of them had been damaged prior, and now I get them for free (well subjectively, RIP insurance premium). Thank you Mr. Deer, rest your soul. I drove the car back to campus. Running as good as ever. I'm getting a lot of "oh my god your car!" Thanks, like I didn't know lol. I am pretty sure I know what the vibration is now. It really shakes the wheel, so I guessed it must be in the front and not the back. So, I pulled the rotors off to check bearings and they are fine. That's when I noticed the driver side rotor is warped noticeably. It must be such that it is rubbing the pads when not depressed and causing a harmonic issue at speed. I had a similar issue when one of my front drums were warped. We'll see when I replace the rotors first. My final test is to get the car off the ground while in drive (off) and rotate the rear wheels. Theoretically if the U-joint is toast, there should be play in the driveline.
  4. 3 years have gone by since on the road. Hard to imagine that it's only been 3 years with all the crap I've had to endure with this car. Today I went to have the title issued with new registration, the car is officially mine. Tomorrow I get to meet with the insurance company. Parts total: $1600 Shipping: $400 Paint: $900 That's not too bad, but I did find out from my mother that the insurance plan is not classic car insurance and there is no agreed upon value despite being told there was. So we'll see what happens.
  5. Okay gotcha. The spring on my driver side door handle that actuates the mechanism broke, so if the handle is left up, sometimes my door doesn't latch all the way. Have you taken the door card off yet and checked to see if the linkage is possibly to blame? Those door strikers are pretty heavy duty.
  6. The pressure switch only works when you apply your foot, but as soon as you let go, the light goes off. I know this sounds trivial, but if you ride the brake to a certain degree and move your foot on and off the pedal a lot, it won't work as intended. The whole reason I did this swap is because those hydraulic pressure switches are no good. They work, sure, but they don't work as intended. With this switch I can be riding the pedal and as long as my foot is on it, regardless of what I'm doing, the light comes on. There's a reason why the OEM switched to buttons and stopped using hydraulic switches. Are you talking about the Ebay kit where it replaces the air box plenum? It looks like a pretty good kit, but I see no reason to make the swap if the original master cylinder works just fine. It is no safer than a newer setup, speaking from experience! His AC kit on the other hand? I've been wanting to get my hands on that for a while..
  7. I got lucky and found them on Ebay. You would have to check interchangeability, though. I am not sure what year's transfer that early.
  8. Last I looked, you can buy it new from Fusick. Unless that's changed, or you need the part that goes in the door, I would look there.
  9. I must have bumped or damaged the brake light switch because it stopped working. I went to go pick up a new one, part number SL169 from NAPA. Unlike the previous switch, this one has an intermediate section where it makes contact when not fully compressed, which made adjustment very easy! The switch plug is not sold anymore, so I went to the junkyard to get one. It was used from the mid 60s to the early 90s so they are really easy to find. The original terminals for the two pin pressure switch are the same for this switch so it was just a matter of pushing out the old clipped wires and sticking the original ones into the plug - no crimping new wires involved. Lastly, because of the intermediate switch, I was able to move the switch up to basically the highest point on the pedal, so now it's further out of the way. With an OEM plug, it also looks a lot cleaner. Unfortunately with the U- bolts, it still looks goofy but you'd never see it unless you went looking. The third image is the wear spot where the first switch was.
  10. For what its worth, I had put Roadmaster front drums and backing plates on my 56 and there was a noticeable difference in braking. It's worth it in my opinion.
  11. You will need to change out the backing plates.
  12. The car is sitting for now while I try to figure out what to do. Spring break is over so I'm back at school and won't be back to mess with it until memorial weekend. I did land a job as a lean engineer intern over the summer so I'm thinking about putting the parts on the card and paying it back over the summer. I got a chance to fly out Saturday to Desert Valley. The only century in their public yard was toast but there were two more in a private yard that I got pictures of from the owner. It looks like that will be the way to go for solid parts. It does look like this weekend I'll be going to L&L in Idaho at my mother's request so we'll see what's out there. I still have not contacted the insurance company. After I get this third quote, I'll be forwarding to the company that would be doing the "repairs" for a final estimate.
  13. Where did you buy the solid state regulator from?
  14. Wow, I would definitely prefer that. I hate pot metal and the pieces I have do not tuck behind the window on one side.
  15. And they probably cannot be used in the 2 door hardtop, huh. I wonder why the difference?
  16. I rebuilt a 55 chev wiper motor and a 56 Buick power antenna. They all seem to be the same basic motor. On both, the lubrication was a very thick, hard, what used to be lubrication. My antenna motor didn't work specifically because the grease had hardened. You have to be very careful because the wires are so old and brittle, it's easy to pull them out (and just as easy to solder new ones in place) And, since you're in there, it's always good to check the carbon brushes. I replaced the wiper motor brushes with generic ones you can buy in the fastener section of the hardware store. For lubrication, I used a moly-graphite lube. Im sure the general purpose red lube would probably work just as well.
  17. Also, I found out that my grandfather had hit someone in the 60s and had gotten rear ended by someone at some point, too. Minor fender benders I guess. Whenever I asked him about why the front grill was broken, he always said it must have been my grandmother. Lol
  18. Thanks for the heads up, Bloo. I might take more than what I need off that thing... Seriously guys, the car is not going anywhere. I've been going from local shop to local shop trying to get an insurance adjuster quote and damage and repair and so far it's been looking expensive. I went down to Vancouver today to scout parts. They had 2 Century's and 2 Specials. All the parts are there, but they are rough. I am still waiting to hear back from L&L Classics and I've been in contact with Desert Valley Auto Parts, too. At Vancouver, they want $960 and that's including a solid, dented fender and a moderately weak hood. DVAP wants $1575 for their parts. There is absolutely nothing local to me on the regular outlets (craigslist, offer up, etc.). Unrelated, I found this stainless steel A-pillar piece on the white Century 4-door hard top. Does anyone know if this was a retrofit thing?
  19. You better install that McCulloch supercharger now!
  20. No I didn't, but as John said, the car is most likely going to be considered a total loss so it probably won't matter anyways.
  21. I take it you're not excited for the Green New Deal? On the bright side, maybe aftermarket manufacturers will make hydrogen or electric retrofit kits.
  22. Not much left to bring home I'm afraid, lol
  23. Well, I was looking to replace the front grill pieces since they had been broken either from an unspoken parking lot fender bender or car port abuse. I guess now is as good as any time to do it. I was coming home from the university last night and was traveling around 65-70 MPH on Highway 26. About 10 miles outside of the town of Washtucna, this ample sized doe jumped down off of an embankment and right into the front of the car. I am pretty sure the deer did not suffer, and the death was instantaneous. When I found it over the ledge along the highway, all that was left of it was four legs and a head. All the damage seems to be cosmetic and I did not puncture the radiator. In this scenario, there was nothing I could have done. I've been in a few of these situations before, so I did not apply the brakes until after the deed was done (not that I would have time to), and thankfully I did not swerve to miss as I think that would have assured the destruction of the car and myself, given the state of the steering box (thanks LC). This all happened probably around 7:30 PM. That's usually the "witching hour" for active nocturnal animals this time of year. After contacting Washington State Patrol, they told me on record to continue on if I felt the car could make it and to keep a look out for any dangerous, erratic behavior from the car. I eventually made it to Othello, where I collected my thoughts and removed the front fender spear. Thankfully, it was not broken and did not deform from the collision - about the only good thing in the aftermath. I carried on all the way home. This car has always given me more than 100%. Destroyed cylinder walls, , punctured radiators, bad steering box and pump, three generators, a starter failure, brake failure and so much more. I've come too far to let these setbacks hinder my enjoyment and plan to fully bring the car back. That being said, I am meeting with the insurance company later today to appraise the damage and cost of repairs, as well as finalizing the state patrol report. Once I know exactly how much I'll be getting back, I'm going to use my credit card for the bulk purchase and pay it off when the check arrives (if I even get one). The optimist in me says I can get back on the road by the end of the week if I structure my time on break. Right now, this is the itemized list of things I need moving forward: Driver side Century fender Century/Special Hood 'Grill Grill Emblem Mustache Bumper Bib (that part that goes on the bottom of the radiator core support and acts as a loose seal between the bumper and the radiator on the bottom) Hood latch support Driver side inner fender Headlight Bezel The metal is so mangled that I do not think it can be pulled. I have seen amazing work done on these forums, but the fact of the matter is that I do not have the space, time, tools or the money to invest in an operation to fix these parts myself. I can't imagine what it would have been like to have been in a modern car.
  24. This was about 10 miles out of a town called Washtucna going westbound for spring break.. after getting off the phone with state patrol, I was advised to carry on if I felt the car was okay. She carried me 4 hours home without issue other than limited visibility and I made it in one piece. She's too important not to, I just don't know when I'll be able to. Im meeting with the insurance company tomorrow after I finish the incident report with the state patrol. We'll see where it goes from there, but from price matching online, it's going to require about 2k without paint. That whole corner is unbelievably mangled and I am not a metal worker nor do I have the tools or the shop. The itemized list I'm looking at includes driver front fender, hood, mustache, grill, grill emblem, bumper bib, inner fender and latch support. Vancouver, WA has two 56 Centuries, I just need to figure out if I'm actually going to get money from this or not. It was a 70mph collision with a 150lb animal. That's about 0.89MJ of kinetic energy. I do not think the animal suffered considering I splattered it Chris the highway and kart wheeled the catcher's 10 feet off the other side of the highway. I barely felt it and the only thing I could do before hitting it was get out "oh sh-". It was unavoidable, and would have otherwise totaled a modern car. I consider myself lucky it was a side front impact and the deer didn't go through the radiator core. The smell was awful for the first 2 hours back home. The car had red racing stripes down the side. Honestly, i'm surprised the deer's legs were still attached to the body.
  25. You should have seen the other guy.
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