Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Beemon

  1. It's the same for 56 and mine has been going for 3 years. Not sure why you would think they'd be heated though.
  2. Wow I've been away from the forums for a while and come back to see you've been busy! Eagerly awaiting the first start up!
  3. Yes this is the issue, while driving the oil pressure drops when getting hot. This is why i'm considering an oil cooler with thermostat.
  4. I have a real gauge on there now. About 25 at idle and 37 driving, which I was told was normal. I've been using 10W40. I will try 20W50 but it most likely won't be until the end of July.
  5. I've been out of it for a while now but here's some progress: State Farm re-evaluated the car and raised the cost of repair to about $9000. The car is now at a metal working shop since Tuesday to get everything back to where it should be, including paint. This is another summer without the car. I'm considering adding an oil cooler. Going up on my way to home, the oil pressure would drop to unsafe levels. Im assuming the rod bearings are worn and the oil is overheating, thinning out. I need to put the engine off another year... and with an IR thermometer, the oil pan sits around 250F give or take 5 degrees. Your oil shouldn't exceed 230F in most cases. Regardless, anything I do will be at a later date. I have decided not to take the car back with me my last semester unless I have to. Speaking of going back to school, the last winter trip I did, my 02 Jeep with the 3.7L developed a tick or knock on off and part throttle deceleration, like ignition timing. Well I got that back Thursday and it has rod knock. So now i'm car-less this summer. Although it has nothing to do with the Buick, I'll be looking at an 82 K5 soon as a replacement 4x4 to get home from school. Truly fun times.
  6. Look for suppliers of the Aurora converter. It even comes with a tube warm up period.
  7. Thanks for the check back Willie! I was seriously starting to think about a rear sway bar after my last jog over the mountains but now I have a much cheaper option to explore. As always, you are a great help to these forums and I appreciate you posting.
  8. Asking for your money back is not as easy as everyone makes it out to be. And at least in my case, despite opening claims and cases several times over the 4 years I've had this car on the road now, I have yet to see a cent returned to me for negligent work. So I just keep adding to the list. When I say this has been the worst hobby to be a part of, I really mean it. You meet quite a bit of genuine people along the way but an absurd amount of crooks, too. 1/8" off was a typo, it should really be 1/4". I feel like that's just going to stretch and stress the rag joint. I couldn't even get a bolt through. There's also no side to side adjustment for the steering column, just up and down and front to back so i'm not sure how i'm going to get it aligned in the first place. Since the steering box is metric, the metric bolt wouldn't even go through one of the slotted holes so my next challenge is to helicoil the steering box with the correct thread and try again. Maybe when I make it big I can use an indexing tool to make my own pitman shaft.
  9. Well if a high schooler is buying a classic car, it's probably with daddy's money to begin with. What do you guys think is affordable for high schoolers? $2000 max is affordable, not $16k.
  10. Well, the steering flange bolt holes are perfect sizing. However, the steering box sits over 1/8" off center and a little high that it requires changing the steering wheel alignment. I think if I can shim the bottom to rotate the top over, it could be made to work, but the pitman arm geometry would be off. In the end, i'm not sure what i'm going to do about the steering box because everything is off without changing the pitman arm geometry. I think im just going to look into maybe a rack and pinion type modification. RIP $500.
  11. Well it's not pretty, but she's back together. The parts are less than ideal, but they're solid for the most part (at least the grill pieces are). After mounting, I found that the bumper had indeed been pushed in on the driver side, so I just need to shim it out about 1/8" to get the parts to line up. The hood has rust through on the inside stamped sheet metal and the fender, while mostly solid, is pretty rough. I've found it difficult to find affordable hood and fenders that I can forward to the insurance company, so I may try to have the original hood and fender straightened on their dime, since it was included in the base cost analysis. If you didn't notice from the photo, the black fender is also rolled at the seam that is parallel to the hood, so the fitment is near impossible (gap is correct at the base and end by the windshield, nearly touching in the center). Also, I think I've narrowed down the vibration issues I've been having. Around town here, when slowing down there's been a thud thud thud thud when stopping or accelerating. Moreover, halfway back to school all symptoms had vanished and then re-appeared after some braking. I also discovered that my driver side rear axle seals are leaking. So my new theories are that either a cord or band in the tire blew, causing out of balance/out of round conditions, the wheel is no longer balanced itself, or I have sticking brakes at high speed, which I have also encountered before when I had drums on the front. I have had U-joint failure before on other cars, it's a constant thing and not something that goes away after driving a long time, nor get better. It also can't be wheel bearings - there is no noise and they are tight in the hub, and new. When I pulled the hubs after getting home, the bearings were still good and not discolored, gouged, scored or whatever else. I know suspension can also cause vibration at highway speeds (seems 65-70 is the normal speed harmonic for which all cars experience some type of balance vibration), but my tie rods haven't been adjusted in 3 years now. I'm hoping I can get the tie rods adjusted when I get this steering box flange made, hopefully tomorrow. Speaking of steering box flange... I used this as a reference and rough starting point for my analysis. Specifically, I went to the upper end and assumed a lateral force exerted on the steering box of 1500 N to give a little wiggle room since tires and such are different. After using a design insight plot to thin out the center (and with a 2.7 FOS, I probably could have gotten away with more), I arrived at the final design with the hollow cut out. Also, for comparison, I made a .125" study (the base piece is .25" thick). It's not feasible anyways with the countersink holes, but I still wanted to see what the halved thickness would do, and it dropped the FOS by quite a bit. FOS being the factor of safety. I hope this helps with my justification for the lighting in the center. With a 2.7 FOS at the upper end of the perceived viewed forces acting laterally on the steering box (and flange by default), I think this design is bulletproof. However, it still requires actual real life testing. My experience with this program has been accurate 100% of the time when it comes to static studies, regardless, so my confidence is high. Forgot to mention, the material used is a generic mild steel, which would be available in extruded flat stock at any local metal retailer or possibly hardware store.
  12. All the local transmission shops I had talked to had said that, at least in terms of GM ATF fluid, you want it as cool as possible. I ended up putting a Hayden unit on my 56 and bypassed the radiator cooler completely and have had zero issues. I can't say its better or worse because I do not know any better, but from what I was told, it is leagues better than the radiator "pre-heater".
  13. Willis, as I understand it all four throttle plates open at the same time. I know at least on the Holley sniper, it has a dip in lag setting to simulate the secondaries opening, kind of like a near lean bog as the engine vacuum pulls open the rear barrels. Kind of a neat nostalgic feeling, similar to Aurora Design's solid state radio conversion that has the simulated tube warm up period.
  14. The parts are here. They could be better, but this is what I have to work with.
  15. The adapter flange is mighty strong, I will post the FEA Analysis here shortly.
  16. Personally i wouldn't bother.. the MSD unit has not changed or been upgraded since it's original inception. Meanwhile Holley has released multiple iterations of their venerable platform over the years.
  17. Only the MSD unit has a built in PWM fuel pump controller. You would think because MSD is owned by Holley, they would have access to the PWM controller technology. That however is not the case. You could instead run a system like an OEM car and have the pressure regulator in the tank with the fuel pump, but you would then need to calculate the fuel line head loss and then deal with the fuel injector pulse reverberation.
  18. It's not gonna be any better than a perfectly tuned carburetor in a climate controlled environment. That being said, if you can find a way to keep a carburetor perfectly tuned for every dynamic environment change, I'd like to know.
  19. Do NOT buy this kit! Seriously! I'm not sure where the seller gets off selling this kit for $500, but their ability to use common power tools leaves something to be desired. What they really need to do is go back to school and re-learn GD&T, though I'm sure given the state of this flange, they probably don't have an education to begin with. This is 100% unacceptable and unusable. If I could I would try and get my money back. It's like this kit was made with rough estimations and eye balling, it is no where near close. An absolute waste. This also means that I am getting close to finalizing my prototype. In fact I am so confident, I am buying the material tomorrow to be plasma cut (the water jet is unfortunately down, so it will probably come out really bad). Ideally I would like to buy .5" steel stock and then machine out the flange, but that would probably be a little difficult to find and is most likely expensive. Aside from the top right hole, which is common to both patterns, the other raised parts will be tapped the same thread pitch as the OEM bolts so the OEM bolts can be used to secure the adapter. The top right raised hole sits over the steering box, so we'll see how that goes. I was unfortunately more focused on putting my original steering box back in the car to see how my paper weight goes into the frame mounts. The closer I get to putting this guy out of business the better I feel. Sorry if I am coming off harsh, but I am done with this rampant negligence that plagues the car hobby.
  20. Mid 50s Chevy is different from Pontiac, Olds and Buick. Their gas tanks, like Cadillac, have the filler in the tail light assembly. The kit that Holley sells also has two different senders. One is a level gauge and the other is the pump. So you would still need to modify your gas tank.
  21. Holley has really stepped up their game and the Sniper unit now comes in the square bore flange, 2 barrel and spread bore flange. And they now have a dual quad setup. They are arguably the best unit on the market if you can look past the $1000 buy in. I've been following these TBI systems for a while. You need a digital distributor and an alternator at the bare minimum. No one has made an in tank fuel pump plug and play kit for the gas tanks that came in 50s GM cars, either, so you either need to get one of those custom adjustable pump kits and use your own sender as a level gauge and return line/vent only, or modify your original pickup to attach a fuel pump and return line to. I've heard the exterior fuel pumps do not work well for cars that are driven if they are above the tank or exposed to heat under the hood. If you can find the Edelbrock sump system, you just bolt it to your inner fender and use your stock mechanical fuel pump. All you need then is a return line back to the tank. I really want to get on this train, but I have had a lot of things happen in sequence for me that has kept me from enjoying the benefits of the 21st century.
  22. It'll probably run fine until you go WOT, then you're stuffing 4 holes of fuel into 2 holes.
  23. I forgot to mention the hood is split on the sides like this image. All the hoods I've been able to find are split like that at the crease. Is that indicative of anything?
  24. Maybe your bell housing is warped? Fluid getting too hot?
  25. I got under the car today and saw that it's bolted and not spot welded, so I should be good to go.
  • Create New...