Beemon

To keep the axle from rotating you would weld the U- bolt cup to the axle at the natural angle the trailing arms attach to the axle. When doing suspension work, you need to make sure you do everything under full weight of the car, which can be difficult if your axle is disconnected. Otherwise, you can potentially throw out all of your important arc angles. Take measurements of where the axle sits before the mod and then when everything is disconnected, try sand put the axle back in the correct place with the correct pinion angle.

I don't know who the guy is but there's someone making firewall mounted AC systems. You could reach out to him on ebay and see if he'd be interested in making something for you. He's done 54-56 buick, olds and cadillacs so far.

Because I used the DD word. And the accident, even though it was an act of God.

As the title says, I'm in search of the center grill medallion that goes between the two wings, reading "1956 Buick Century". Thanks in advance!

After finally getting my 56 Titled and Registered (again) and insuring it, I was finally able to enjoy the highest quality automobile I've ever had the pleasure of operating. It had been some months, I forgot how solid the doors sounded when they came shut on the fresh weatherstripping. Or the very brisk startup with the touch of the gas pedal, or the seamless acceleration from a stop with no hard shifting. Unfortunately I'll be limiting myself to 3000 miles a year. Fortunately with my yearly daily driving, I've never exceeded 2500 miles. Can't wait to be back in the challenge next year.

I have had the same experience as Lancemb. The first time I replaced the rag joint, I put it back in no issue. I then tried a steering box conversion and accidentally broke it, and when I buttoned everything up there was no difference whatsoever. Probably does as much good as those weird anti-static springs behind the dust caps on your front hubs.

Try this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c7az-6892?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiA5o3vBRBUEiwA9PVzavT1R9x3kZyI4mumwJcYoCn_FfKh36KaJ4NSghcqctxPn2IDZHz5HhoCCVAQAvD_BwE The dimensions look to be correct but I have not used them before.

Some people say Flowkooler is a gimmick, but the design is supposed to be high flow, minimal cavitation. If the school labs translate to cooling in a cylinder head, the best cooling is achieved when the flow is most turbulent, AKA going faster. You'll have to let us know how it performs, as I am wanting to do the same thing.

Good to know! I had glued it before and it worked flawlessly until it encounter the Incredible Hulk at this restoration shop. It is holding now, so I am not too concerned with it. I also fine tuned my antenna to grab when going up and down but also slip when bottomed out. I don't know if your model antennas have a tensioning screw on the side of the motor, but mine does and its a very quick procedure on the bench. I had a very eventful break. I got to go to my junkyard of choice and made off with some clean hood bolts, some misc sheet metal screws and a rusty, correct starter relay for about $40. The starter relay was my favorite find because I had to go from car to car looking for one that would let all four screws unscrew. The inside was sealed perfectly from the PNW weathering and all I had to do was clean the arms to bare metal. Some day I'll paint the cover and make it look nice, but I eliminated that chonky high beam relay and now everything is wired comfortably. All I need now is an original horn relay. I ran out of time because I brought my wife and we had to leave due to family issues on her side. I also re-attached the hood ground strap, since my original clip on ground thing broke a long time ago. it seems to do a better job at shielding RFI with the strap than without, as expected. My hood adjustment bumpers cannot be adjusted properly because one of the clips was installed upside down, so I cannot screw it out any further. To fix, I will need to disassemble the entire front end because its stuck behind the grill. Which is of course, fine, because if you see in the second to last picture, they forgot some things. HMMM. Better to be safe than sorry, I guess my next task will be to replace every single incorrect fastener (like the standard head bolts on the exterior lock washers instead of the flange head bolts) and washer with correct, or suitable replacements. Part of me grabbing those old rusty sheet metal screws is to find a replacement the right size at the hardware store. Unfortunately they will all be flange head sheet metal screws since you can't buy standard sheet metal screws for cheap, at least not at my hardware store. Lastly, one other thing I made off with at the junkyard... stainless Anco wipers! I found a nice set of Trico wiper blades in stainless, too, but as far as I know you can only buy the reproduction Anco wipers over the counter. Maybe you can get Trico inserts off the web? If so, I will go back for them but man what a difference! Over the counter they are plain. I think the Stainless wipers really complete the windshield area of the car. And thus.. back to school for two more weeks. I passed my Fundamentals license exam, so now all I need to do is graduate and I'm on my way to becoming someone who thinks they know more about machining than a machinist.

Spent yesterday with my Dad for his Thanksgiving dinner. We went sand shrimp foraging on the beaches of Ocean Shores. Didn't find anything, but driving on the beach was pretty fun. Today we went to give thanks to the grandparents. Its the first time I've gotten the car out after getting re-registered and new insurance. I noticed today the grill medallion reads 1956 Buick Special. Among the things that were thrown away includes the original 1956 Buick Century medallion, so I'll need to track another one of those down to make the car correct. This Saturday I will be going to the junkyard to see if I can track some of this stuff down, but given how rare Centuries are, I doubt I will find a medallion locally. I'll be making a post in Buy/Sell, hopefully someone has some Century parts out there. I'm trying to remain positive but everytime I find something, it just ruins the mood. Happy Thanksgiving all.

I have seen a 53 pulley and pump, they are indeed different. There's a 53 Roadmaster with complete engine from pan to carb (WCFB) at the classic junkyard, at least the last time I was there. I can look again this weekend if you're interested @g-g-g0

There is bad everywhere, but this hobby is something else. The only crooks i've come across have been in the classic car hobby. I feel like this hobby attracts a lot of people with skills looking to take advantage of others. I mean just cars in general. Those stereotypes of mechanics taking advantage of people are just multiplied in the classic car hobby.

I would try and match the gasket to what you removed originally. That's a hard call without knowing which one is correct but I would go with the taller one personally given how these carbs are known to have a lean bog off idle. Having that power valve come in earlier might help alleviate that issue.

I'd be interested in the 2347s but I didn't see a price? Been looking for a matched pair for a while. Is it complete?

That seems very negligent to me. Obviously they were not interested in keeping my things and lied about it so i'm not surprised they would lose all my bolts.

Is stealing bolts a common thing for restoration shops? Most of the nuts and bolts that were used to hold the front end together, specifically the flange head bolts, have all been swapped out with standard bolts.

Hopefully this can be welded back together. I don't see why not but we'll see.

The rest of the antenna is fine, I just need to re-glue the nylon end back into the antenna and re-feed the nylon cable. I just can't believe a shop suggested by Hagerty conducts itself this way.

Does this picture look right to you? Guess I will be sifting through the junkyard to find original hood bolts that have mysteriously disappeared. I went and talked to the shop today to get my stuff, since we had an agreement to hold my things until the week of Thanksgiving (break) and they have all mysteriously disappeared. This is why I hate this hobby.

Interesting to see how it looks on the dash!

Those are authentic holes in the headliner

I hope its just lifter tick! That does not sound ideal at all. I can't remember, did you open the engine up prior to this?

I have never seen that before, do you have a part number? If you are looking to be correct, the line between the frame and pump was a braided steel cable to most likely help control pulsation below the pump. It would just be a rubber line between the two. The 54-56 Buicks I believe are all the same and are what avgwarhawk posted. However, if you want a glass bowl setup look at the 57-59 configurations. I put a glass bowl on my daily 56 from a 58 and run rubber lines from the pump to it and then to the carb. It works really well and I can use a modern paper filter in the glass bowl housing. I prefer this over the pancake filter because its just a sintered brass mesh and its 50's filtration. With the 58 setup I get (allegedly) modern filtration with the paper filter and I can see just like a cheap filter when it starts to get gunked up, if ever. Some do not prefer them because they have hulk hands and break the glass somehow. I have had zero issues and while I was driving my Buick daily, I was putting almost 4000 miles on it a year.

If the tube to the choke is missing, its probably broken off from the hole in the manifold. I have never gotten those to work right on any of my applications so I just bought an Edelbrock electric choke, flipped the spring internally so it opens the correct way, and have had zero issues since. I think you can buy electric chokes for the WCFB off of Ebay that already have the spring flipped. Others seem to not like them but I have never had an issue with them.. Filter 6255 from NAPA will go in the stock air cleaner housing if you want to go paper.

I call BS. Having driven thousands of miles across the state now in my car, in town and on the highway, I have never had an issue with the Dynaflow. Not keeping up, not reaching 100. It is obviously a sign of the times, but it is still a venerable transmission.