Beemon

I have been waiting some years for something like this to show up on the market. A reliable dual quad system to sit on top of the AFB intake manifold that doesn't require mounting an ECU. Once I get this mess sorted out with the insurance company. looks like I'll need to invest in an MSD distributor, a clean alternator installation, and finalize the starter switch (didn't think about this before, but why not TWO brake light switches in parallel, one for lights and the other for the starter, grounded through an oil pressure switch??) This is actually really exciting, I'm hoping to see other manufacturers follow.

I had nothing but bad luck with these. That's why I just deleted it all together and added the push button switch GM used for 40 years since the 60s. To each their own, but I went through two switches before going to the push button. Here's hoping you have better luck!

That ansen shifter. 😍

The one that looks "correct" is not a truck motor... it is a sedan model. Would be great to see some pics though!

I have a piece of literature that says 215/75R15, I'll have to snap a photo when I'm home next.

Hey Kosage, great to see you back on the Buick! When you get a chance and you remove the AC bracket, can you scan it with a computer printer? (Like tape it with masking tape, then tap out the holes and stuff and scan it with a blanket over the top). I'd like to see about making one. I did something similar to this making a oil pan for the formula club and it worked great! All you need is the scan, then you convert it to a DXF drawing and you just take the measurement between two holes to scale it up. Works pretty well! You could make a quality reproduction that way. I guess the hardest part would be getting the side that goes to the head bolt. It also looks like you have the support that goes to the intake manifold, too. Very cool!

This? or this?

Wait hold up a second, you put a 57 truck wiper on your Century and it was near bolt on? Pictures please!

The Tour X and Sportback are supposed to have the same amount of cargo capacity if using the trunk cover, at least that's what the sales rep told me. I hope Buick adopts this style. I've felt their sedan styling has been lacking ever since they dropped the stamped sweep spear body. The Regals are sporty, which is what Buick needs in America. Not that it matters, majority of Buick sales come from China, so the company isn't going anywhere anytime soon.

I really like the new Regal. It's much better looking now that it isn't a station wagon. I'm not really concerned about these packages, though, because I plan on buying the Regal GS with the 3.6L V6.

No road salts here. Im really just looking for a firm fit on the windshield. Also let me tell you, rain-x does absolutely nothing when you get de-icer on your windshield. That's why I was asking about quality spray nozzles. I have cam-o-matic bezels. I'm pretty sure they are the same as normal 40-60 bezels, but the nozzles I got from Fusick were too small for the original threads.

I know this is going to be one of those questions because not everyone drives in the rain, but what do you guys use for wiper blades? I have a set of classic series from NAPA right now, but it doesn't put positive pressure on the center of the blade and is kind of useless. Also what is everyone doing for washer nozzles? Mine work, but only if I take them out, poke and prod with a needle and blow them out. Its like the chrome is de-laminating inside the hole.

Ben, thanks for the kind words! My "rebuilt" steering box has 120 degrees of play in it, so I am adapting a different steering box. Yes, should make for easy mounting. It's just old state farm, nothing really special. The guy was really nice, he worked with me to make sure it was 100% accurate and he submitted the invoice for damages and then I got paid on the spot. I did come with price quotes ahead of time for all the parts I would be needing, and I think that helped a lot. I did not get the pitman arm, but considering how the adapter looked, I don't think I'd want to use it either. I don't have the capability to manufacture these but if I can make an engineering drawing for people to look at and get the bolt pattern from, that would probably be enough. If I do a small run, I'd have to outsource through a different company and probably wouldn't have control over the price.

I've finally got all my eggs in one basket for this. This is the mockup prototype flange to adapt the 99-04 Jeep Cherokee box. I'll most likely laser cut the test piece using card stock to make sure it bolts up correctly. Once I have the dimensions correct, I'll 3D print the piece and then move on to plasma cutting the flange and doing the necessary busy work.

Today was a rather pleasant day, and my luck has finally turned around. The car was valued in its current condition (special thanks to paint!) at $12000, and the damage appraised was $3700, about 31% of the total damages. Which means I was cut a check for $3200 after the deductible, $300 above what I was quoted for including parts, shipping and paint. I guess I shouldn't be too terrified of the insurance company, they really pulled through on this one! The best part is that I was looking to replace the hood, grill and mustache bar at some point because all of them had been damaged prior, and now I get them for free (well subjectively, RIP insurance premium). Thank you Mr. Deer, rest your soul. I drove the car back to campus. Running as good as ever. I'm getting a lot of "oh my god your car!" Thanks, like I didn't know lol. I am pretty sure I know what the vibration is now. It really shakes the wheel, so I guessed it must be in the front and not the back. So, I pulled the rotors off to check bearings and they are fine. That's when I noticed the driver side rotor is warped noticeably. It must be such that it is rubbing the pads when not depressed and causing a harmonic issue at speed. I had a similar issue when one of my front drums were warped. We'll see when I replace the rotors first. My final test is to get the car off the ground while in drive (off) and rotate the rear wheels. Theoretically if the U-joint is toast, there should be play in the driveline.

3 years have gone by since on the road. Hard to imagine that it's only been 3 years with all the crap I've had to endure with this car. Today I went to have the title issued with new registration, the car is officially mine. Tomorrow I get to meet with the insurance company. Parts total: $1600 Shipping: $400 Paint: $900 That's not too bad, but I did find out from my mother that the insurance plan is not classic car insurance and there is no agreed upon value despite being told there was. So we'll see what happens.

Okay gotcha. The spring on my driver side door handle that actuates the mechanism broke, so if the handle is left up, sometimes my door doesn't latch all the way. Have you taken the door card off yet and checked to see if the linkage is possibly to blame? Those door strikers are pretty heavy duty.

The pressure switch only works when you apply your foot, but as soon as you let go, the light goes off. I know this sounds trivial, but if you ride the brake to a certain degree and move your foot on and off the pedal a lot, it won't work as intended. The whole reason I did this swap is because those hydraulic pressure switches are no good. They work, sure, but they don't work as intended. With this switch I can be riding the pedal and as long as my foot is on it, regardless of what I'm doing, the light comes on. There's a reason why the OEM switched to buttons and stopped using hydraulic switches. Are you talking about the Ebay kit where it replaces the air box plenum? It looks like a pretty good kit, but I see no reason to make the swap if the original master cylinder works just fine. It is no safer than a newer setup, speaking from experience! His AC kit on the other hand? I've been wanting to get my hands on that for a while..

I got lucky and found them on Ebay. You would have to check interchangeability, though. I am not sure what year's transfer that early.

Last I looked, you can buy it new from Fusick. Unless that's changed, or you need the part that goes in the door, I would look there.

I must have bumped or damaged the brake light switch because it stopped working. I went to go pick up a new one, part number SL169 from NAPA. Unlike the previous switch, this one has an intermediate section where it makes contact when not fully compressed, which made adjustment very easy! The switch plug is not sold anymore, so I went to the junkyard to get one. It was used from the mid 60s to the early 90s so they are really easy to find. The original terminals for the two pin pressure switch are the same for this switch so it was just a matter of pushing out the old clipped wires and sticking the original ones into the plug - no crimping new wires involved. Lastly, because of the intermediate switch, I was able to move the switch up to basically the highest point on the pedal, so now it's further out of the way. With an OEM plug, it also looks a lot cleaner. Unfortunately with the U- bolts, it still looks goofy but you'd never see it unless you went looking. The third image is the wear spot where the first switch was.

For what its worth, I had put Roadmaster front drums and backing plates on my 56 and there was a noticeable difference in braking. It's worth it in my opinion.

You will need to change out the backing plates.

The car is sitting for now while I try to figure out what to do. Spring break is over so I'm back at school and won't be back to mess with it until memorial weekend. I did land a job as a lean engineer intern over the summer so I'm thinking about putting the parts on the card and paying it back over the summer. I got a chance to fly out Saturday to Desert Valley. The only century in their public yard was toast but there were two more in a private yard that I got pictures of from the owner. It looks like that will be the way to go for solid parts. It does look like this weekend I'll be going to L&L in Idaho at my mother's request so we'll see what's out there. I still have not contacted the insurance company. After I get this third quote, I'll be forwarding to the company that would be doing the "repairs" for a final estimate.

Where did you buy the solid state regulator from?