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Everything posted by Beemon

  1. I'm adding to the wishlist here. Holley/MSD just recently came out with a coil-on-plug driver system that uses their distributors with a blank cap. I think having two LS coils on each side of the valve cover breather with some type of throttle body injection would really wake this old 322 up. I guess if you take the MSD nailhead distributor and gut it with replacement hall effect stuff on the inside, all the billet bases are the same so you just throw the blank cap on there. Then you can have either one of their Sniper units or a stand alone coil driver fire the plugs with a programmable map. I think I've just about given up on doing dual quads at some point. The air cleaner really completes the engine and I just think it would look silly without it. I thought about the Chevy/Cadillac/HEMI dual quad air cleaner but there's no guarantee it will fit and its pretty massive. I think the only thing that would cause me to give up the original air cleaner would be a McCulloch supercharger setup, but good luck finding one of those.
  2. There are three different Nailhead filter housings: Big canister, 3 bolt spin on and later 4 bolt spin on. Pictured above is the 3 bolt spin on housing, which comes with a bypass valve built into it. The oil filter used is still available. Most will spec the 1049 filter, which was special order for me. When I got it, it did not have an anti drain-back valve in it. I then tried a 1258 filter, which does but its a bit shorter. The modern GM oil filter 1522 will also work, its taller than the 1258 by about a quarter inch but its skinnier. Currently I have been running the 1258 filter. The 1258 is also a black painted housing versus the 1049 I got that was white painted... I'm not sure the difference. If the 1258 filter becomes obsolete, the 1522 will be available as long as the LS platform is around. The filter is only $8, too. If you do this, you need to put the fourth bolt hole in like I did because it's a thru hole. Centerville does sell an adapter for the later 4 bolt spin on housings to work on the earlier Nailheads. @FireballV8 I don't think the issue is relatively availability, but more so how long it's sat on the shelf and if whether or not the paper element has broken down into dust fibers.
  3. I live 20 miles from the local warehouse and the filters were starting to get scarce along with points sets. It was too the point that the warehouse had to special order a distributor rotor before I converted to the late model distributor. Even though NAPA prides itself on keeping cars on the road, the Chevy/ Ford/ Chrysler aftermarket has made a huge dent on the OEM suppliers, or so I was told by the manager. So they're making less in less frequent batches. This alone prompted me to buy a spin on housing from a 59-60 (I believe is the years? I'll have to double check. Same time period for Olds also works) that bolted to my 322 without an adapter. I used a mid size filter because the one that is the replacement for the OEM filter does not have a drain back valve in it and that was something I wanted to keep the oil galleries primed. After doing the conversion, I would not go back to the original filter housing. This is so much easier, and lighter. I'll miss the fumble of the original, but not enough.
  4. Usually you need a large pedal ratio for no boost assist on discs, like 6:1. 4:1 is ideal with boost, but it also depends on the booster size as well. Yours looks like a compact design, but pretty long it seems. Did you add an inspection cover to fill or just hope for the best? The stopping ability was the same for me as well. I eventually went back because I could not find NOS ball bearings anymore and although the plastic cups on the rockauto replacement ball bearings never broke, they just didn't feel the same as the worn and pitted bearings (they felt considerably loose or considerably tight, must be a huge tolerance margin in China). The Scarebird kit on my 56 required grinding down the corners of the calipers to fit the 15" rims. Did you have to do similar? Looks like they are unmodified in your photos. I would not run discs in the stock configuration without a booster, though. The big plus was the cheaper tapered bearings and the auto adjusting distance so there wasn't any more front end pull when braking. If I were to do it again, I would go with the Wilwood dual piston design. I am also planning to machine a hub spacer between the hub and rim so its hub centric and not lug centric, its my one complaint right now.
  5. I might have a spare but I will not be home until Halloween weekend..
  6. The grill trim pieces should be the same between all models. When you find one, the best way I've found to mount them is to get one of those U clips to push over the hole on the trim end then use a flange head screw from the back side to retain. The original flat clips usually do not survive the 60 years.
  7. Glad to hear its running strong, Ken! You can't go wrong with that 56 322. Advertised 255 HP and 341 ft lbs of torque. After my rebuild fiasco and finding (granted worn out) original running 322, having the heads rebuilt and adding the 1.6:1 rockers really woke it up. Dreading the day I have to do the bottom end because as you found, pistons are rare. I'll most likely need to get some custom made. On the 7.5 timing, the 56 motor really does not like more than 5, at least in my case. Could be different with yours being punched out. I have a 64 401 distributor in mine that I rebuilt and bushed myself to have less than .015" end play and I put stock curve springs in it. I was told the dual quad timing curve is the best for all nailheads but I am not sure the validity of that claim on a 322, which is much different from the 364/401/425. Regardless, I found going to the 401 distributor to be very beneficial. I also added an Accel dual point conversion to it and bought a repro dual window cap from Brillman Co. and it has been running absolutely flawless. Curious about your mention of vibration. What was it and what did you do to fix it?
  8. I know you solved your issue, but never assume that because the work was done by a professional, it was done "right". You'd be surprised.
  9. What tires are you going to kick?
  10. Silly question but did you chase the headlight leads to see if you're getting 12V before you tear into the switch?
  11. The only one I know of is the guy that sells the steering box conversion kit.. I probably wouldn't trust it, though. Any steering repair shop should be able to replace the ball end, though. That's the one thing I haven't found at the hardware store.
  12. Bump again I know this is a diamond in the rough piece but I am determined to find it
  13. As long as the play is in the drag link only, it is very easy to rebuild. The shop manual explains how to set it up for manual vs power steering. They use the same link IIRC but different guts.
  14. That is way too much effort lol.
  15. I unfortunately replaced all my ducts with cheap dryer ducts from Home Depot. Hence the knowledge of hose clamps. I think the aluminum foil works better than the old stuff, maybe. Just don't look under my dash please.
  16. The oval end should conform when you put a large, appropriately sized hose clamp over it.
  17. Did not know these existed! Thanks for the bump, will save a ton of headache converting over!
  18. If you separate them, you will have to get the car 36" off the ground to wheel the Dynaflow out with a tranny jack.
  19. They came with special nuts? I've just been using nut, lock washer and washer combo.
  20. Bump, still looking for this dash panel and HVAC box. Any junkyard leads are welcome!
  21. I found this image of a Pontiac/Buick air cleaner being sold on Ebay and it really struck me as being weird. Ebay: Mine: Note: You can tell the air cleaner in the Ebay ad is for a Pontiac because the mounting nut is on the front face and not on the bottom. What I find interesting is that the opening on the Pontiac is smaller than on the Buick. I wonder if this is because the 322 was larger displacement and had higher inlet air velocities? I know these air cleaner lids were also used on Chevrolet, as well (minus the big silencer). Always kind of interesting to find stuff like this and thought I'd share.
  22. Hey all, I'm looking for a dash pad setup for an AC car, as well as the HVAC system for it and the dash controls. I'm going to be looking into a modern bolt on system, but I want it to look stock from the inside. I'm looking for a dash pad that's preferrably blue since I am not sure when I'll be able to have it re-covered, but any condition is fine unless something else presents itself. I'd also like all of the knobs and switches to move freely and not have to worry about tracking down new bowden cables. For the HVAC system, I just need the heater box, and tube to the top vent that is still mostly in one piece.
  23. Did they total it up front or did they lead you on for a month before saying "Sorry, not sorry" ? Really kind of opened my eyes, but I didn't have much choice at the time since I was daily driving the car as my only source of transportation for some time.
  24. John, I can't really help you with your spring question, but my guess is that its a door override spring so when its fully open, its less likely to come crashing back closed without a helpful hand. It looks like the two ears of the spring are resting on each of the two pieces connected to the spring pivot pin. On the subject of your steering wheel, it looks awesome! Is it cool to ask how much it cost you?
  25. Alright guys, I've finally settled back in at school. I am now a married man and have forfeited 50% of everything I own in what I hope was a good idea. Nah just kidding, I've got nothing to worry about (yet?) Anyways, long story short the insurance company screwed me half way through the repairs and I had to pull out of pocket to finish. It started at the beginning on my summer. Mind you I had already gotten the initial settlement from State Farm and had purchased replacement parts before now. I found a local restoration body shop through the Hagerty network that came highly praised. My main concern moving forward was that I was to be married on the 3rd of August and the car needed to be done by then (this was the beginning of June) in which they assured me they could have it done. State Farm agreed to fix the damages as long as the repair did not exceed 75% of the projected cost (about $12000 so around $9000). I was told this was not going to be an issue, and the shop got the OK from State Farm after they said they would not total the car. Things were going great. Except now they've brought in a second appraiser to negotiate with the shop. They got their rates re-negotiated and the insurance company gave the green light. About when the shop had all the body work done and everything was in primer, and the insurance company had failed to deliver their payout check to the shop, they brought up the notion of re-chroming the replacement stuff I had found. The stuff I got was more or less hot garbage but I couldn't be a choosy beggar, especially when I couldn't find any yards or quality parts within 3 states of me. By the shop's logic, since my chrome pieces were in pretty good condition, I was entitled to fresh pieces in equal or better value. The shop reaches out to the insurance company and pitches the chroming process to the insurance company. After 3 weeks of solid work, this is the first time anyone has heard from State Farm and they pull a full stop and send a third appraiser out to look at the car. The third appraiser basically said the first two were morons and totaled the car on the spot. Over a suggestion pitched to the insurance company. At this time, it took 2 weeks for the insurance company to reach out to me to tell me the car was totaled. In fact, I had to call them to verify the car was totaled. So, after battling on the phone, I finally negotiated that State Farm hire a third party appraiser of their choosing to re-evaluate the car. To which, they hire someone OUT OF STATE to look at pictures the first appraiser took of the car. Fortunately, they appraised the car at $16500. The part that sucks is that even though the car was re-evaluated, it was still totaled on the books. So, after this, they tried to take my deductible out twice, and charge me for repairs and storage done. After negotiating with a representative, we told them that if they tried pulling this back door shady garbage, we were going to go to the insurance commissioner. We got a settlement payout for the value of the car + tax + licensing - salvage, which came out to a net $16500. Well, the shop now saw that we were no longer under the umbrella of the insurance company, and knowing what the payout was, decided that the $4000 left of work to be done was now $9000 left to be done due to "unforeseen circumstances" that were never really disclosed. After everything was all said and done, I got the car back the Friday before I had to leave for school, completely missing the wedding, out majority of the settlement claim, with work done that only fixed the damage (originally was going to be damage + paint chipping from Maaco which had voided their 5 year warranty due to the collision) on a now totaled title which I cannot have re-licensed until I have time to drive home and make an appointment with the Washington State Patrol for another vehicle safety inspection. Thus reinforcing my distaste for any and all auto establishments (I have only had two good experiences thus far) where I have to use a customer service voice lying through my teeth in the sweetest manner just to get my property back. Throughout the entire process, my 02 Jeep was diagnosed with rod knock, I had to micromanage my then fiance so she didn't have a mental breakdown and kill me, and sit helpless from the sidelines while my prized possession is picked over by both the insurance company and the restoration shop like vultures. I ended up buying a clapped out 81 Blazer to get me to and from school, especially during the winter. Everyone keeps telling me "I hope this was a lesson learned to only drive your car on a sunny weekend" as if deer are going to drop dead during Saturday or Sunday, or that other drivers are somehow impervious to car accidents on the weekend. The truth of the matter is, once it's licensed, I will go back to driving it whenever the hell I want. Just with different insurance. Before (its wet): After: There's a few things I'll be doing with my riches, including: Finding an AC dash, HVAC routing and dash controls Modern under the hood AC White Wall tires? New J-bars (if they're still available) New grill center emblem The worst part about this entire ordeal is that at some point I will actually need to most likely have the car repainted again in the near future since warranties are void and I still do not have enough to finish the interior and probably won't any time soon.
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