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About jw1955buick

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  1. That's what I was thinking, just find something that makes it work
  2. Thanks all for the ideas, I guess I’ll be buying new
  3. Where can those be found to fit this or paper is fine, I need it for my ‘47 dodge which is a beater, just need it to work or would it just be cheaper/easier to buy the whole thing repop for $25 ?
  4. Got two of these, came with my’55 Buick special, neither had any stone type or material filter of any kind, looking for anything that would just function for this, I don’t know how you’d secure something in there I’m hoping someone has a fix
  5. Great year! Jim McMahon, Walter Payton, the FRIDGE!!
  6. It’s handy that I’m taking guitar lessons, I used a bit of that string to probe everything I could find, my choke pull off adjustments are getting better as I’m understanding the terminology in the shop manual, floats are now within a 16th of spec, that’s some stressful stuff bending those things I don’t know how to test the accelerator pump without installing it and running it which is fine, just takes time
  7. Ok, so metering rod situation is correct seems like I need to go back over all the adjustments again from start to finish
  8. So I’m not a good carb rebuilder apparently, I’m not getting a good squirt of fuel when actuating the throttle linkage, I’ll get one squirt and not a good one then bubbling and dribbles when it’s warm and you try to start it, acts like it’s out of gas so fuel is not getting in steadily for sure I found my float level is too low so work to do there, also is there supposed to be a spring under that vacuum piston that controls those metering rods? That T shaped rod bar is all the way up all the time with that spring underneath it, that’s how it was when I took it apart so I put the new provided spring back in there, something about it doesn’t seem right, that little hook on the accelerator pump shaft seems unnecessary with that spring in place I realize these are all very basic questions, I’m trying to learn this stuff and there’s plenty of fuel in the glass bowl the whole time so I don’t think it’s fuel delivery issues to the carb
  9. Haha! I knew someone would point that out! that's the before picture. Have a set of those NGK's that guys on here are running and some 45 or 44r's from CARs, can't remember the exact number
  10. I did all that, total carb soak and rebuild per shop manual, I did everything but pull the shafts and remove butterflies, used the kit from CARs, it's possible that a piece of something is in there of course but unlikely considering that I went through the entire fuel system. It's improving as I go, it now at least stays running at 500 just not smooth, installing clean plugs over and over not knowing how quickly they foul and affect the idle, as always, it smooths out for the most part with increased throttle. Any thoughts on choosing to time for max vacuum vs timing at the 5 degree mark per the manual? Pros? cons? terrible idea? What's the original location for the distributor advance vacuum source? Pictures??
  11. Frank, that makes sense, so where should I splice in the vacuum gauge? also I blew air through every tiny idle circuit hole I could find when I rebuilt the carb, pump, fuel line, tank all clean on start up, glass filter bowl is clean, no sign of any sediment anywhere
  12. So the vacuum source for the distributor is a nipple at the base of the carb between the mixture screws, this is how I inherited it. 1 is this the factory vacuum source location for this setup 2. If not, then what? And how and exactly where would you obtain the right source of vacuum to put a gauge on it? it does have vacuum wipers with a line to the bottom of the two part fuel/vacuum pump
  13. Ok, I stink at tuning, always have, every old car I ever had ran too rich and was hard to start, this one is no different whats been done: rebuilt 322 with some type of RV slightly lumpier than stock cam, no info available, rebuilt carb, new coil, cap, plugs, wires, points, condenser, fuel pump, vacuum lines the rebuild was 8 years ago and driven very little because of electrical issues that were never resolved, something draining the battery so I rebuilt the carb recently, replaced most ignition components, checked the gap in the points, timed it to 5 degrees, mixture screws out one turn, problem is it still runs rich and fouls the plugs, is hard to start when cool even with choke closed and seemingly working, sounds like a slight miss or vacuum leak so compression is good and consistent, put a vacuum gauge on the port between the mixture screws, plugged the vacuum advance on dist, warmed up the engine and the gauge is showing 28 steady but when I kick down the throttle to around 500 rpm the gauge goes to 8 and stays there unless you get back in the throttle, I get no real change in vacuum by moving the dist unless I move it pretty far, mixture screws make no difference in idle even if turned all the way in seems like a vacuum leak from what I’ve read but I can’t figure out where it would leak at, checked all hoses and fittings the plugs always seem to be fouled so I feel like I’m in some time loop that I can’t get out of, don’t know if that port in the carb is the right place to measure vacuum but I don’t know where else you’d put it unless you drilled a fresh hole in the intake help please