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Bulldog Car Guy

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  1. No. I have tried every set of clips I can find, but nothing seems to work which is strange since the wheels clearly have slots for clips.
  2. Update: we checked the generator and it was in fact wired wrong. The ground wire that is supposed to go from the generator to the ground on the side of the box was going to the middle terminal on the voltage regulator labeled GEN. So we fixed that. Then, we tried again. Same noise. But it looked like the starter was properly disengaged and stayed disengaged. It turns out it was the transmission linkage. Once I shifted it, the engine ran smooth as silk. Apparently the park/neutral safety feature is not working either because it will start in drive. Thank goodness I had it on jackstands. But it purrs along nicely in drive and will shift to reverse. However, I can’t get it to shift all the way over to neutral or park. So I assume I need to adjust it. Or maybe the shifter is in park or neutral but for some reason power is still being sent to the wheels. The transmission was rebuilt some years ago but like the engine has never really been driven. Any hints at that would be appreciated. But that will be another challenge for another day. But it was great to hear it run!
  3. Sorry I have so many questions. The 53 Buick I bought came with full wheel hubcaps that I don’t care for. However, the wheels have the slots for clips for poverty caps (no clips were present). So I found some cool poverty caps on eBay that the seller said would fit a 53 and bought some clips from Bob’s. However they didn’t work. Then, the seller of the hubcaps said I had “motor wheel” wheels and needed those clips. So I found what another seller said were motor wheel clips. However, they don’t seem to work either. Thoughts?
  4. Haven't had a chance to try this yet. I got the new Ballast Resistor installed and the starter reinstalled, but haven't had time to try these suggestions. Hope to in the next couple of days. Thanks for all the help.
  5. Ok. update. I pulled the starter and the teeth look fine. So I guess my theory was wrong. So I guess it is back to the drawing board figuring out the noise. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cARW_W6OCDHz7VcaUE-gGvhjA7lDTqI6/view?usp=drivesdk It sounded great at idle until I revved the engine and then it started making a loud noise. I cut it off and when I restarted it, it kept making the loud noise so I cut it off again. Not sure what the noise is now. Going to try checking wiring as you guys suggest. I would be fine with going to push button start but would the current starter still disengage properly without that mechanism? thanks for all the help. Hope to have her back on the road soon!
  6. With some great troubleshooting help from you guys with yesterday’s wiring issue, the nailhead started and ran well for the first time in years at least at idle. This video shows it running well. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PMCxgEp1y1nUriiZaiFj5h5ztYyyESUs/view?usp=drivesdk However, when I went to rev the engine, I believe the starter tried to re-engage the running motor and likely shedded the starter (hopefully not the flywheel). I didn’t get that rather terrible sound on video. I can’t pull the starter until tomorrow to check, but I bet it is trashed. I had cut off the engine when it made that sound, but I restarted the car a second time to see if it would idle well again and the noise started immediately before I revved the gas so I cut it off again. I am guessing those teeth were damaged and may not have disengaged upon start the second time. The PO gave me an old starter at purchase that had the teeth sheared off as well so I suspect this happened before. From my very limited understanding, the vacuum at the mechanism by the carb should somehow stop this from happening when the gas pedal is pressed on a running engine but the whole gas pedal engaging the starter is very new to me (and so far, I am not the biggest fan). Can someone help me understand what might be happening here and how to fix it? thank you,
  7. You are the man! That did indeed fix it. And it fired right up for the first time in a few years. It started making some noise that I need to figure out, but it was a day of great progress thanks to you! Greatly appreciated!!! Here are a couple of links to the success you created: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7X2nY2eRFQtab-LUBSYyNsL77oOnnI7/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PMCxgEp1y1nUriiZaiFj5h5ztYyyESUs/view?usp=sharing Thanks so much! Bryan
  8. I have a brand new set of these that I don't need for a 53. They came with the 53 I bought but the ones on the car look brand new as well. PO included them in the sale. I would be happy to sell them cheaper than retail or trade them if someone needs them.
  9. With the switch in the on position it has 12 on one side and nothing on the other so I figured it was bad. New one will arrive Saturday. However, I still don't understand how bridging the resistor causes the car to immediately try to crank when the switch is turned to the on position when the vacuum switch at the carb seems to read correctly.
  10. The resistor is on the firewall, and the harness is basically brand new. The PO included the wiring paperwork and the description for the wires going into the resistor seem to be correct (as least according to the maker of the wiring harness).
  11. Sorry, no offense intended. It is just a very different system than anything I have seen on other vehicles. Makes things more complicated than a regular ignition switch that just returns to on position once the car is cranked. Will be kind of cool as a discussion point at car shows if I can get it working properly. 🙂
  12. Yes I have the 53 manual. It was very helpful at trying to follow the electrical wiring although it is still somewhat confusing. We started at the vacuum switch at the carb and it seems to work correctly. 12 volts in, nothing when the switch is turned on and then when the gas pedal is pressed, it successfully gets 12 volts out. Continuing to the follow the wiring. Same was true at each step along the way until we reached the ballast resistor. When we get to the ballast resistor, 12 in and nothing out with pedal pressed or without. When we bridge the ballast resistor, though, the car tries to crank when switch is turned up before I can press gas. When I bought the car, it had not run in a couple of years, but the motor was completely rebuilt and all the wiring is a brand new wiring harness (each wire has the stickers still on them). Previous owner did a ton of work to it, but didn't appear to drive it much so I suspect it has several things that need to be sorted out. It did turn over without issue, but I know that isn't right so I didn't want to put gas down the carb until we figure out why it is starting before it should.
  13. I am the new owner of a 1953 Buick Super Rivera. So, when I first tried to start it, I got nothing. So I replaced the battery, still nothing. After checking over things for a while, the Ballast Resistor on the firewall is bad, but everything else seems to be working. Looking at the shop manual, everything seems to be hooked up right. The crazy gas pedal switch at the carb, relays, etc. all seem to go hot when the pedal is pressed and be cold when it is not depressed. When I bypass the bad resistor, you would think everything would be good. However, with the resistor bypassed, as soon as I turn the switch on, the car tries to start before I push the gas. That doesn't seem right. I really want to put gas down the carb and start it, but I am afraid something is wrong and I might damage the starter since something clearly isn't right with it starting without even pressing the gas. Thoughts?
  14. Thank you. So it is a 45R? Just for my learning, how can you tell the difference?
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