Beemon

Sometimes these jobs show up in the form of sponsored vendors and you really don't know any better until its happened to you.

The pump impeller should be pretty close to the same as the 401/425 pumps, so you most likely do not need to pay the $1000 to have a custom one designed and made.

No pictures. Finally got the Buick out of the parking stall by digging out 6 inches around it. Much rocking back and forth to get out of the spot, and dragged my front wheels turned straight out. Roads were clear and the parking lots were plowed except for mine and the one above it. The Taco Bell was well worth the effort. Getting into a new spot was a bit challenging, and I sunk straight into someone else's spot sideways. So, I spun the rear tires until the car swung in straight. We're expecting 6 inches more, so we'll see how it goes. Looks like I'm grounded for the weekend travel!

Its just a pump rotor that they make. Now that 322 and 364 patterns are back on the market (used to just be the 401/425 AC pump available), I'm sure a deal could be struck. After all, all they would need to do is just swap pump rotors.

You can just feel how fast this Buick is going based on the body roll around that corner.

What's wrong with this one?

Hope you guys enjoy the pics of the fastback mod I've been working on for my Buick.

The blade geometry is different. Look at where the blades meet the base of the pump on the shaft. The 3 blade vanes are flush on the bottom with the shaft while the 6 blade vanes are not. This is most likely due to cavitation issues in the pump head. Bear in mind if you upgrade to a 5 or 6 blade water pump, your engine will have to work harder to pump it. However, the faster and more turbulent your water flow, the greater the heat transfer. I have also had bad luck with water pump rebuilding. These old guys must be getting shaky hands on these precision jobs. I've always wanted to try out a FlowKooler water pump because they CNC machine their pump rotors to be high flowing with minimal cavitation.

I got all my clips from NAPA locally

Too long for the generator and too short for the pump? Were the mislabeled? lol

I too am a fan of yellow zinc plated bolts.

If you can find a way into a University department with a 3D scanner, that would be the most accurate way to go so long as the printer has the right resolution. Otherwise, you would need to remake the emblem in a 3D modelling software and then export it to the printer. 3D printing is also very messy stuff and can be very tedious to clean up. I think in this case, the cast emblem is the way to go. Looks great by the way! You should use the part you cast yourself, the personal touches are what make the car, even if you know its only 99% correct.

Before the "blizzard".

Just the rears off the Olds, not the front. On the front, check out a 62 Chevy Impala. I hear it requires small modification but is otherwise a close fit.

You already answered the size question, but check out Olds of the same vintage. They used a rear stabilizer bar and their frames are the same as Buick except for the leaf springs.

She doesn't mind but she's also apprehensive to me spending money right now all things considered.

Online solution databases say otherwise these days, but don't think I haven't thought of it. I almost became a TA but didn't have time.

Seems like every 6 months there's some type of catastrophic event and I can't keep spending money on things I've already fixed. Im very close to quitting.

I've never seen a 56 u- joint, but I also haven't looked in a while either. The last one I've seen was sold here on the forums.

How often do these Dynaflow U-joints go bad? They are self lubricated, right?

This is getting off topic now, but where would the other 1.2A go?

You don't need to go 70 MPH in Low. Reading through this, it seems I may have been wrong in my previous assumptions of ruling out the driveline and had the procedure results backwards. I previously said I cannot replicate this condition in low, which is true, so therefor by the shop manual it indicates a driveline issue. Still, I can't imagine this issue just popping up out of no where if the drive shaft was unbalanced when I replaced the differential... so somehow the universal joint has worked itself, if that is the case. Universal joints are not available for the Dynaflow, that I know of.

The entire circuit in your example would still draw the 2.4A if one of the bulbs is removed. Power is I^2*R, you're effectively increasing the power through the filament past its normal operating power rating, a difference of 7.2W vs 28.8W. Not sure why you would think the current just disappears with the missing filament when it becomes an open circuit.

Whoops, meant to write amperage, but I'm sure you understand what I mean. Two resistors in parallel... one goes out, the other gets twice the amps and increases the power drain, shortening the life span of the other bulb..

So I pulled the valve covers tonight, no broken springs and everything is okay and free to move (spun engine over by hand, no hard binding). The transmission was 2 quarts low, so I hit the highway tonight and the issue still persists. My next guess is that somehow the wheels have become unbalanced. There wasn't an issue until I came up the Lewiston grade (7%) at 70 mph. I double checked the filter screen on the WCFB, nothing is clogged.. I might try replacing the fuel filter next, since its a cheap fix and it has been a year since its some time since its been replaced, but I doubt that's the issue. I checked the oil in the air cleaner and its still below the fill line ridge, so I have no reason to believe the air cleaner is choking the engine at high RPM. Dwell is okay, timing hasn't changed. I guess I shouldn't say loss of power, because I can power through the vibration from 60 to 70 with a lead foot and the vibration goes away above 70 mph. I have no plans to tear into the Dynaflow this summer, but the reality of the situation is, if it is the dynaflow, I guess it's going bye-bye. I really can't keep spending money fixing other people's mistakes.