Beemon

Thank you I really appreciate the assistance. Putting this thing back together has been my hardest jigsaw puzzle.

No I'm still here! I don't post a lot, I read a lot and reading these forums have been indispensable with my restoration! That being said, I would love to take you up on that offer. I'm not an expert on the different models or years, but my Century came with a Rochester 4bbl carburetor, if that helps. I would love to take a bracket off your hands, Bhigdog.

It looks like the first hole on the manifold is a pin off the bracket, wasn't expecting that. The dashpot looks like it mounts about an inch and a half up from the bend. Thanks for the pic!

My 56 Century was taken apart in the 80's by my uncle and I'm in the process of piecing it back together. I have all the original lines and fittings, but for the life of me I cannot find the dashpot or mounting bracket for the Rochester 4bbl Carb. Can someone please post some dimensions for bolt holes and mounting hole/height sizes? I feel I might need to fabricate a new mounting bracket on this one since all the 56 Buicks I've found in the junk yards around here all have the 322 stripped clean out of them. My other question: does anyone know of a reliable vendor for old dashpots or will I be able to walk into a Napa and pick up a basic GM dashpot? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the read, buick man. Puts a lot into perspective. My grandfather told me he had the old treadle-vac rebuilt twice before the Dynaflow gave out in '78, and suggested that I also do away with it. The first time was with my grandmother driving the vehicle and the second time with my uncle. The last time it was rebuilt was 2 years before the Dynaflow went out so maybe it was a bad model, I'm not sure. For anyone curious, I went ahead and ordered the Master Power Brakes remote fill dual reservoir master cylinder and a Speedway Motors 7 inch dual diaphragm brake booster with proportioning valves and residual valves for the drums. I know its not original, I have kept all original parts and accessories, but I want to modernize the system a bit more so I have ease of mind driving my grandfather around in his old Buick. When I get the parts in, I'll post some shots of my setup.

Ease of mind more so for my mother, who believes two lines coming from the MC are better than one. I've been on the fence about this one for a while and in the end I just want something more modern to power the brakes so replacing components is readily available and affordable, and not an arm and a leg through a remanufacturer/redistributor. The car has been sitting for 40 years at my grandpa's house, he bought it brand new in '56. I just had the 322 rebuilt last year and now I'm in a rush to get the car road worthy due to family issues (lost title, etc.), so this year's taxes have gone towards the Dynaflow rebuild and essentials like replacing the entire brake system. I've already measured that a 7 inch booster thats approx. 5 inches long would fit in the original spot of the MC was no longer than 8 inches before it makes contact with the steering box, I was just curious if anyone had ever made a similar modification. On an unrelated note, since I can't quite test the vacuum from the engine yet and I can't find the specifications in the shop manual, can anyone give me the average idle vacuum for the 1956 322 Nailhead?

I have my brake booster in okay condition, but I was looking to see about replacing it with something more modern. Has anyone had any success putting a modern brake booster in the same position as the stock one? I figure fabricating a bracket wouldn't be too much of a hassle, but more of finding a modern brake booster with a long enough stem. Just curious if anyone has attempted it, thanks in advance!

I live in Washington, Seattle area specifically. This is my first project, the car belongs to my Grandpa. I'm still a little bit new to this hobby. If I could find a working engine and transmission that would be ideal. I have no intention of selling or giving up the car anytime soon. I don't post a lot either but you guys have all been a big help through reading. It's a Century by the way.

The heads are off and the pistons have been soaking for almost two weeks now in a mixture of PB blaster and Marvel Mystery Oil. I also pounded quit a bit on the pistons with a hammer and wooden block already. This has been ongoing for the last month with no movement. I tried getting a pry bar on the flew plate but haven't had any success. Any tips on how to rock it back and forth? Finding a replacement engine and trans locally might be a hassle for me. If I have to replace the engine and trans, I'll most likely gut the underside and replace everything front to back. Would like to keep it stock.

I'm looking for the correct crankshaft end dimensions. I'm not sure what to call this area, but its the smoothed part of the crank that sticks out of the block with the key. I measured the diameter to be about 1.5" with a 1/4" key. Is this correct? I'm looking for a crank socket to turn the crank. I can't get the flex plate to turn and I need to get the engine out. My tax return came back two months and I can't drop it on the engine without getting it out and seeing what I've got. Its been sitting for over 30 years without the heads on the block and I'm pretty sure the rings are seized to the cylinder walls. Was looking at this socket here. Will it fit properly? Here she is as she sits right now:

To clarify, I meant the front pump and not the turbines inside the torque converter. Car does not drive in any range but the rear wheels are free to move. There is no pressure in the front pump.

My Buick has been sitting since the 70s due to the front pump in the Dynaflow going out when my mother was driving it home from the college. I haven't pulled the thing apart yet, but I'm just curious about what to expect. The shop manual states worst case scenario being to replace the pump mechanism, which is easier said than done. I've also heard horror stories of front pumps failing and shooting shrapnel through the trans but to my knowledge the car died in drive and I was under the impression Dynaflows in drive didn't use a hard connection and relied on the oil to drive the car? Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated, planning on pulling it apart this week.

Hmm. I'll have to re-check the lettering to see if they're okay, that's disappointing though. No it's paint because on some of the turbines, it's scratched off. I've seen some replicas online, are they any worth picking up or are the just as good as home grown refurbs? I'm sure they have the vacuum pump Bhigdog was talking about, but are the colors close to accurate?

Hmm, seems to be a very tricky situation here. Good thing these are only driver caps. I guess I'll try out what old-tank said and use the flat silver-gray in the turbines with the matched spray paint. Anything for the letters? They aren't too bad, but would be interested in sprucing them up a bit.

Sorry, but I'm not looking to buy new hubcaps. If I were, I would have posted in the other forum. I was just asking for advice on paint colors if anyone had done this type of restoration before.

They are all beat up, but was planning of pounding out the dents and painting the inserts myself. That's why I started the thread.

Hmm, not really sure how I'm going to go about getting the dents out and polishing now. I didn't know they were chrome plated. Still need to know the color of paint for the edge notches and center emblem, though.

I recently picked up a set of four hubcaps for my 1956 Century. They aren't the best looking set and one of them in particular has a nasty dent around the outside ring which I probably won't be able to pull out. Aside from pulling and bending metal and polishing the stainless, I wasn't quite sure what the color of paint was for the painted squares in the lower ring and on the back of the emblem center piece (both the red and silver). If anyone could point me to the correct paint colors, that would be fantastic. Only one of the emblems are cracked, the other three are solid with no visible crazing.

Yes, that is the piece I am missing exactly. Darn. Would there be any way I could possible replicate that or find a new one? Without that piece, I'm at quite a loss here since it seems to be the actual bracket that holds the rear cable to the front.

I have both P and Q, but there seems to be another part that connects the back park line to the front park line and I think that's the part I'm missing.

As my car has been sitting in the car port for 30 some years, the parking brake has either shattered or was broken off the housing that runs from the torque tube to the third member. The diagram in the shop manual makes the fixture out to be somewhat of a crescent shaped connector that holds the wire that goes from the two rear wheels and connects it to the main wire that goes to the lever. However, at this point the diagram doesn't really help me all because I have no idea what to look for. I'm assuming the connector isn't even on the car because the park line doesn't match the diagram. I've looked all over the net, but obviously no one is going to post pictures of this without good reason. Was hoping one of you guys could look under your car's skirt and see what's holding that wire onto the torque tube. Pictures would be great, but I don't want to waste anyone's time on this other than a simple confirmation. Will get pictures tomorrow, as it's quite late here and I didn't have much time to snap one while I was fiddling under the car.

There's no rust on the exterior, even under all the thirty years of road grime. Plus, my grandfather recalled putting in stainless steel lines. I'm assuming they are, but I will double check. Hmm, according to an article I read, the Dynaflow was used in the M18 Hellcat tank destroyers.

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the feedback! My mother is the type of person that says everything is unsafe and that the Buick is a rolling tank and needs this and that. Heh, the irony, the Dynaflow was used in tanks during WWII! I found out yesterday that the brake lines are stainless steel, so I don't think I'll need to replace those. The parking brake line is shot, though, so I'll have to replace that for sure. My grandpa did a lot of work in the early 60s on the car with the brakes and front end, but I'm sure most of that will need to be replaced anyways. Also, why shouldn't I rebuild the master cylinder with the original metal parts? Can't I just glass bead blast them so they're nice and clean and re-use them with new seals? And say I wanted to make this a driving car for my grandpa before he passes away, as in drive it alot and not just on the weekends so he can enjoy it in his final days, would that be bad for an old car like this?

Thanks for the great advice everyone, especially JohnD! I'd like to ask a few follow-ups, if you don't mind. So what you're saying is that whether it's drum or disk, with power brakes it won't make a difference? I just want the car to stop, and if the stock power brake system works wonders, then I don't think I'd want to do the conversion. My grandpa said it never failed him before. He also rebuilt the system in the early 60s, but the wheel cylinders had deep pits I couldn't get rid of. That's a shame. I'm just worried about the single piston MC failing, but if I have a nice new brake system, those chances will be severely minimized, right? I'm a bit curious here as to why lining of the shoes won't work the same. I will look into the posts you mentioned, but I'd like personal feedback. Also, do you have a stance on drilled drums? I've already tore apart the brake booster and MC to take a look. It looks pretty good, just the seals and o-rings are a bit worn. Should I just put it back together as is and put it back in the car or rebuild it now while it's apart? I know this bit contradicts what you told me, but I had already dismantled it before you replied. Thanks in advance, this is much appreciated.

Hehe, that's the problem. Drums are shot and the pits in the wheel cylinders are pitted past honing. Plus, ball bearings cost an arm and a leg compared to better efficient roller bearings. Parts for disc brakes are far cheaper too. I guess what's keeping me from wanting to go drums is the bearings, though. Could I put roller bearings in the drum or does it have to be ball?