paulrhd29nz

https://images.app.goo.gl/ve7Z5RGDgZNMtf6o8 it appears that after a full restoration this terd severely declines in value . Only 16k Euros gets you a fresh one. Pitty really.

An accident

Interesting that the front and rear fenders are the same.

Did you get coupe that was on FB in Washington for 500.00. Heck of a deal for a complete body. If it was in Canada I would have got it.

Don’t use brake cleaner. Bad for rubber and soft plastic. Mist with water and get a can compressed air ( electronic cleaner ) and dry it out.

That must be the 4banger Hudson Motor Fossil was talking about 😬

Opps! I’m mistaken. It is an Essex. I put my glasses on for a better look and noticed the fenders. Graham Man is correct.

The car is a 1928 Hudson. Standard Sedan. The wheels are the giveaway that it’s not an Essex.

Again , the 7psi cap needs to be kept. Or you could always buy lots of head gaskets and keep them in the trunk along with lots of tools for when you go on road trips.

I don’t know the 202 jet motor at all, but the 7psi cap sounds correct. My 308 and older 254 are rated for 7 psi. It’s not about the rad pressure as much as it’s about what pressure your head gasket can take. Check your manual and only use the correct rated cap for your motor.

The two piece head is interesting. So is the sump. Do you have the top of the head ?

The Hudson ones are funny! thanks for making these.

I posted the photo of the Austin to ONLY show it had three lug wheels similar to the OP.

Robert, you will find all your answers for your Hudson on the 1916-1929 Hudson Super Six Facebook page. we used to have our own form but yahoo killed it. I’m not on face book my self, but that’s where the group is. It’s very active.

That 3 bolt pattern is 30’s austin. photo is of a 37 Opel Austin.

Any one remember the 70’s Horror movie called “ It Happened at Lakewood “ ? if I recall correctly, giant ants took over the place.

I’m curious, when you adjusted your steering box were the wheels in the straight ahead position? If not it will behave as you describe. With the front end of the ground , you should be able to move the tyres lock to lock by hand. It should be tough to get it to move when wheels are centred , but once you get them moving it should swing lock to lock.

My 29 Hudson Standard Sedan wins in my book

PM sent to you

Can you please show a photo of the heat riser hole with a tape showing the distance from the bolt hole centre of the heat riser to the exhaust flange that meets the block. if the measurement matches mine I’d be interested in the manifold.

They are WED aftermarket bumpers. I have the exact set on my 25 Hudson. I will post a photo of the medallion Later this evening that is same as the op photo.

Do not put the battery in trunk. Take the battery you bought back and buy a 6v OPTIMA. Lay it on its side and make a cover out of metal or plywood and paint it black to hide how ugly they are. Clean all grounds and contacts, even your starter. I have this set up in all my cars. They are the best 6v battery you will ever buy.

I believe this is the same as your visor. it’s after market and the car in the photo is a 1923 Essex 4. the post is in “ pre wwll photos “ from last month or so.

That was my first thought 22 or 23 Hudson by the beading hatch pattern but .. the raised centre with the bevel before the leading edge says no. But I will say I’m not familiar with 24.

For 1926 there were two series. First start with 672228 to 713809. second from 713810 to 749999. Hudson built a Brougham body as well as Biddle &Smart. The Biddle & Smart body’s we’re out of Aluminum ( yours appears to be aluminum) The Hudson built body’s are far superior in quality of construction. Hudson engine numbers mean nothing. They were never in sequence with the body number tag. The date code is the only way to identify the year of the motor. The body tag needs to match the frame numbers stamped in the rear frame horn.