linuxone66

Hey guys, thanks for all the replies. @Frank DuVal, Yeh have gone with what is known here as 2 B&S, according to an auto electrician that is more than enough so have gone with that. @dictator27 Yep all contact points have been cleaned and "made good". @paulrhd29nz@Bloo@Grimy Haven't heard of that battery, will look out for it, the longer leads are working fine, car starts very easy now, have not mounted the battery yet so may look at the optima before drilling any holes. It turns out that the battery the local shop has been supplying for the last several years is made for forklifts so that may be why it is so slow to turn over when cold, we will see if I can find the optima anywhere. I can always use the leads for my old tractors when I get around to redoing their wiring ;)

Thanks for the info, yeh haven't really sussed the car out much as it is an unexpected addition to a property deal we have just finalised, they didn't want to move it and none of them are interested in getting it running again, so they have just left it in the shed 😁 Happy days for me, will go great beside my 37 Studebaker. I kinda figured it is probably a spun bearing or something like that, haven't heard it yet, Just the kind of thing I like to get my hands on 😄 well, apart form a well oiled and running machine 😉 It will be a while before I get to lay my hands on the ole girl as I have the stude to finish and then a couple of british cars in various states of undress atm so busy times ahead 😄 Will definitely look out for the book, thanks for the heads up.

Hi guys thanks for the replies, they have allayed my concerns. @Buffalowed Bill, absolutely love the car, had it for a few years now and has always been hard to start from cold, so I have purchased a stronger cold crank battery but it is larger than the battery box under the seat, by about an inch, so instead of modifying the box I'm installing it in the boot.

Hi, Just thought I would drop a few lines in this forum as I have recently acquired a 1927 Chandler here in Western Australia. I'm not sure how many Chandlers would be over here in Oz let alone in W.A. so I'm betting I will be asking questions of you all very soon 😄 I haven't taken possession of the car as yet, that happens in about 10 days hopefully, and the description the owner gave me is as follows: "I was driving it and it started making a funny noise from the engine, so I stopped, turned it off, and got it trailer-ed home" Other than that I have no idea what I have got myself into 😆 I do have a few other vintage/veteran cars and tractors, so not completely clueless 🤔 Have attached an image for interest. Here's to a long and rewarding experience. Regards Wayne.

Hi, as the title suggests, I require some info and advice about my '37 Studebaker Dictator and its battery charging system. Background on me. Western Australian (no the blood has not rushed to my head 🙃) Not shy around mechanical and most electrical work on vehicles, I have a few vintage cars and tractors I do all the work on myself, just never tackled this particular system type before, all my others are 12 volt neg earth. I have the wiring diagram ( hopefully see attached, If I get the upload right) Background info on the car. 37 5A Dictator. Positive earth 6 volt system. New 920 CCA battery. Reason for wanting the info. Moving the battery into the boot due to the larger size of the new battery. Kinda confused as to how the battery gets recharged. The Nitty Gritty. As previously stated moving the battery but I cant find any charge wire/track from the generator to the battery to recharge said battery. Even on the wiring diagram there isn't one so I'm hoping someone can explain it to me. The only thing I can think of is that it recharges through the body of the car, But I'm unsure if my logic is sound. Regards and Thanks in advance. Wayne.

Hi From Western Australia, Wondering when your next container run would be? Cheers Wayne

Dave Pink, sent you an email a couple of days ago with the membership form and have deposited the membership fee into the account on the form.

Hey guys, sorry for delay in responding flew out for work Tues gets a bit busy for a couple of days getting back into it. Drdon - thanks mate, it's a great car, will keep pluggin away at her Rbk - thanks for the info mate, I'll start looking Dave - cheers mate, have been looking everywhere for some contacts here is west Oz, all bar one of my 20ish emails seem to have fallen on the deaf/blind and that one is in QLD. I will be sure to join soon. Gary - sadly that starter was already sold, he just hadn't had time to take it down

1939_buick thanks for those links, nothing there for my car but its great to see projects keeping the info out there. Brilliant thanks Gary, I have sent him (chuck) an email about delivery fees, Waiting for the heart attack now but when ya gotta have it ya just pay for it huh not that I mind, at least the parts and info are there to get. he also seems to have all of the manuals for mine too so bonus score there, although I already have an original shop manual which came with the car, its a bit tattered and what not but getting a reprint to use and put original away. Cheers on the info of the car too Gary, although my car has a TJRJS167 stamped onto the fire wall which apparently was an Aussie body builder, of cars not muscles , so I'm guessing the parts were made in south bend then shipped out and assembled here? then TJR put his own stamp on it afterwards. cheeky bugga Is there any info on how many were sent out here? having number 167 seems like a fairly low number to me.

Hey 1939_buick, still trying to get in touch with the local club here and the Vic club are helpful but are on the other side of the country so is making it a little difficult, but we shall prevail

Gary, Thanks for that yes I have both, Serial # is 55460I4, yes that's and I not a 1, perhaps for International? Starter tag has MAX 4019 on it. After hefting it around getting it in and out I would hazard a guess at about 10 - 15 kg. I will certainly be looking for someone to rebuild it but that could take a while and seeing as I like driving her if I can find one in working order I'll grab it Just a side note where is the best place to purchase a copy of the parts catalog? I only got her a few months ago and haven't really started to look for info as yet, well until now

Thanks Studeq, i'll flick him an email.

Hi, I live in a small town called Toodyay in Western Australia. I have recently purchased from a friend a 1937 Dictator, until now it has started and run fine but it seems the starter motor has gone on it. I am a bush mechanic of sorts as in I have a few cars and motorcycles and I do most of the work myself as far as breakdowns and what not go but I do not own a piece of paper that states I "know" what I'm doing That said, the problem first happened a few weeks ago, the starter just made a light "thump" noise and refused to do anything else, I took the starter out and placed it in a vice and attached the battery to the starter directly with jumper cables for a few seconds and although it does spin it spins very slowly, well for a stater motor anyway I still wouldn't touch the Bendix but it's not fast enough to throw the bendix out to the end of the shaft where it would engage to flywheel. So I pulled it apart, and just about half of the "cloth" covering the coils is either frayed or missing, problem found I believe. Ok so after all of that story the question is where can I get another starter from? Western Australia, as you can imagine, is NOT a good place to try and source parts for a 37 Studebaker I would like to just buy another starter in good working order if I can and then I can have the one I have here rebuilt so that the old girl is not sitting still for too long if it happens again. There will be lots of other questions to come as she needs a lot of TLC which I plan to administer over then next few years. Any help is greatly appreciated.