Jim Bourque

Hi Joe Sunnen hones use 2 stones and 2 guide shoes. Guide shoe would be in holes marked A and on the other side of the hone, combined with the stones would give 4 points of contact to the bearing being honed. Your picture shows only the stones installed in the hone. Jim

Vermont does not issue titles for vehicles older than 15 years.

Make a fulcrum that can be attached to the manifold studs/bolts and lever them in with a crow bar if you don’t have room to swing a hammer.

My great grandmother and great grandfather with my grandfather in the back seat in approximately 1908

The boring bars I have seen use a Bridgeport mill power feed motor/gearbox. They are variable speed and can be found used

Is it the same part as a Master 6?

I don’t know if the 24 Master is different than the 25 Master, the shaft the clutched gear runs on has a small step on it so one end has a slightly larger diameter which allows it to only be removed one way. If removed the wrong way it FU’S the bushing in the gear and you still won’t get it out. Please don’t ask how I know this... Jim

WOW! Every 1925 Buick Master 6 engine I have has a fiber timing gear. Jim

You have the pressure relief as it shows in your picture from another thread. I am 99% sure I have all the shaft pieces, not going to be prefect but certainly serviceable with a little work or I could make you new ones. The parts I need to look at when I get home is the 165240 oil pump shaft bearing. If my old memory serves me correctly I have 2 ? of those but I think 1 is broken. As far as the gear is concerned, I have some used ones but I would recommend getting a new one from Bobs Automobilia in Califunny. With either a new gear or a used gear the shaft will need to be shimmed, drilled and reamed for a Morse taper pin. The top picture is your pressure relief valve. I would recommend that you take it apart to verify the spring is intact and the plunger and seat are OK. Inspect the tubing for cracks. The oil pump bottom plate should be looked at as well as typically it will have grooves worn in it. Resurface if needed. The pump drive gear to pump housing should be bushed to remove the wear as well. I also have info to upgrade the pump to modern gears if needed.

I have some 25 Master parts. I will look in my spares when I get home on Tuesday.

Are they the same as a 25 Master 6?

What is the diameter of each gear?

Something that should be checked on cars with the dreaded death wobble is the side to side wear in the spring shackles on both ends of the front axle springs. If you can move at all, its to much. Shim for zero clearance. This solved the death wobble on my 25 Master and my 28 Cadillac Hope this helps Jim

I bet Donita has a boss that would not want to here what you have to say...

Mark Have you had a look at the gear that drives the oil pump that is driven by the camshaft? Typically it’s brass and it may be worn.... Very easy to get at with where you are at in your process. I do like to promote mission creep 😜 Jim

The only timing marks that need to be aligned are the cam to crankshaft. The water pump shaft doesn’t matter as the ignition timing is set with the distributer. Looking good and great progress... Jim

Making an adapter sleeve to fit the ID of the Heim joint and the OD of the stud would be a simple lathe project. Or look into a stud and bearing mount product if your clearance is only 10-20 thousandths. My question would be, how do you keep the heim joint/sleeve on the stud ? Can you remove the stud from the frame? Is there enough stud length beyond the heim joint /adapter to thread for a nut and washer? Drill and tap for bolt/washer? Cross drill, washer and split pin? Jim

Thank you for your response. Was there a reason you opted for a vane pump verses a gear pump? My experience with old cars only goes back to the mid 20’S cars, and have never seen a vane type pump in any application, only gear. Jim

I understand you want to make all the parts yourself for this project, but have you considered making a housing for a gerotor/trocoid type oil pump that you canibilized from a modern car/motorcycle? With the considerable effort that you have put into this project, would the peace of mind of having a proper pump hidden inside a housing that you fabricated be more acceptable to something that you are not 100% will work for at least 10,000 miles or more? I am not a fan of vane type oil pumps for any application especially for the “heart” of an engine. I am not posting this to throw stones at you, only to see that you are successful at realizing your vision of a completed project that can be driven without worrying that the oil pump is supplying enough oil to the parts that are made out of unobtainium. Jim

If it is like Hugh’s picture, I would not screw it back into the block. The fitting inside will probably be loose or the tube will be cracked and will dump oil directly back to your sump reducing the oil pressure.

Drop the pan. It will be obvious as to what is attached.

Hal is one of the good guys, he helped me with my Cadillac vacuume fuel pump. I highly recommend his products and service. Jim

This is what I did with my shaft for ease of serviceability. Repeatable runout .0015. Original Buick gear end, keyed rigid coupler I made, 304 SS shaft.

Mark The shaft in all likelihood is past its useful life due to corrosion at the packing nuts as well as the sleeve bearings in the pump housing being worn out. With that being said, cut the shaft to remove. I would also recommend that you remove the starter generator and go through it prior to using it. Have you pulled the clutch inspection plate yet to have a look? Jim

Mark While you have good access to the block core plugs, it would be a great time to pull them and make sure you don’t have built up crud in your block. It is likely the plugs are steel and probably ready to rust through. What is the red car hiding in the garage? Jim