Jim Bourque

Clean it up and get it running. You will wonder how you got along without it. The problem that happens next is where to find a serviceable mill... Lots of info on the net for these old lathes. Jim

This is a picture of my grandfather and my great grandfather. My grandfather is the boy is the rear seat. He was born in 1901 and appears to be 5-6 years of age in this picture. I believe the car is a Buick model 10.

Cam can rust in its bearings. Jim

DBRS Could you please let us know which Chevy carb was used? Thanks Jim

Hugh I will take both of your Master starter gears. PM me to make arraignment. thanks Jim

Matt Thanks for the pictures of your pressure regulator on your Cadillac Ed Whitingham is a lovely area and I have some friends that live there. I am in Dover. Getting back to the subject of cars being done correctly, when I was a kid my father had a 29 Packard 7 passenger phaeton. It was a car that he had restored himself. I remember a number of trips from our home in Longmeadow Mass to beaches in Connecticut and Rhode Island. That car never broke down. When I was about 10 years old Dad sold the car to a gentleman who lived in town and as I recall his name was Mr Blake. I have always wondered where that car is now and if I could buy it back. Here is a picture of it.

Ed/JV I have also been following Matts Lincoln tread as well as every thing that both of you post. We are all better off with your shared knowledge, I know I am. That's brings me to my own 1928 Cadillac issue. A few years ago I bought this car it looked great in the pictures and was supposed to run and drive. It did, barely. It was a nice older cosmetic restoration but the mechanicals were done halfway. I knew it needed some " tinkering" but not what I got into. Lesson # 1 never buy a car sight unseen! Now I am not scared of anything with an engine in it and have restored a number of cars, boats and motorcycles. I have been into everything on this car, distributer, carb, vacuum fuel pump,fuel tank,exhaust valves,water pump/radiator,spring shackles,wheel bearings,steering box,brakes,transmission and more. Matt, I FEEL YOUR PAIN! This car is now roadworthy but the vapor locking has been kicking my butt. I did give Matt H call to see how his 29 is set up and I will follow his recommendation to run a rotary vane pump/pressure regulator. I was close to fuel injecting it with a custom manifold and a TBI off of a Chevy Jim

Hi Larry McMaster Carr has 4130 steel tubing in lots of sizes. This is what I used for my 25 Master. Made a couple aluminum adaptors to fit the tube to chuck in the old South Bend. Interference fit to the tube and warm tube to insert adaptors. Turn to what you need for OD. I used .065 wall thickness. Warm tube again to get adators out. Jim

Ronnie All above advise is good... a simple way to find top dead center compression is to use a simple whistle made out of an old spark plug. Remove all your spark plugs and start at one end of the engine with the whistle. Use your hand crank and rotate the crank until you hear the whistle and stop tuning when the whistle stops. At that point you will be at top dead center compression plus or minus approximately 5 degrees. Close enough to adjust that cylinders valves. Repeat for all other cylinders. I use this method for my Buick and Cadillac and find it much faster than looking at valves or crank marks. To make the whistle remove the ceramic part of an old spark plug and reduce the hole with a couple pieces of rubber hose until you are down to about 1/8 inch Jim

I will take 2 Master springs Thanks Jim

Alex The driven gear shaft that is part of the pump housing need to be machined off. The drive gear side of the housing needs to be bored and a brass sleeve bearing pressed in and sized to fit the Jeep drive shaft. I left the brass sleeve bearing about 3/4 of a inch above the pump housing for more bearing surface. Once the center of the drive shaft is established, you can then locate to driven gear center. Bore pump housing to an interference fit to the drive shaft dimension. Use a short piece of the drive shaft and press into housing. The gears will also need to be shortened to match the depth of the housing as well as the housing will need to be bored to fit the gear diameter. Stick the bottom plate to a surface grinder with double sided tape and grind flat. Make an adaptor to connect new pump drive shaft to the original intermediate that sits in the engine block. My freshly rebuilt 25 Master holds 25 PSI on a 90 degree day at idle running 0/20 synthetic It's been a few years since I did mine, but has been working beyond my expectations. This was my workaround as serviceable used gears don't exist, having new duplicates made by a gear shop would have been about $2000.00 for the first set and would have dropped to something reasonable at 20 sets and the drive side of the pump would still need to be sleeved as well as other wear in the housing that could not be repaired. Jim

Alex I rebuilt my pump a few years ago using Melling part number K-64 Jeep gears. It will require some pump housing machining. Attached is what the machine shop will need to modify your pump housing. The shaft will need to be modified as well. Hope this helps Jim Jim

Hugh Larry is correct, just special lock washer under the bolt. The serrations are there to help the lock washer lock as it's hardened. I would be concerned as to why shaft is sitting proud of the serrerated piece. just my 2 cents Jim

Hugh does the Master 6 use the Same spring? Standard and Master use same pump gears. If so I may have one. Jim

Hugh I may have one, will look this weekend and measure. Jim

David When I rebuilt my 25 Master I could not find new rollers/shafts. Had new ones made. Make sure they "run true" before installing in your engine. Jim

Thanks for the info Leif and Hugh. All I need now is Rons address...... Jim

I have a spare from a 25 Master 6 I could send you. I don't know if it's the same as a standard 6? Jim

Larry If you have access to a Bridgeport the attached info should be all you need to rebuild your 25 Master pump with modern gears. Let me know if you have any questions. Someone on this forum may know if your 25 STD uses the same oil pump as the Master.... I did this to my 25 Master pump a few years ago and worked out great,just make sure your pressure relief works as it should. I run 0/20 synthetic in mine and has 25 PSI at hot idle with spark retarded. Engine was rebabbited rods and mains.

Larry I rebuilt my 25 Master engine/clutch/transmission 2 years ago. New Babbitted rods and mains, sleeved bores to standard with aluminum pistons, reground crank and camshaft, complete rotating group balanced, new tappet rollers, reconditioned head, rebuilt oil pump with new modern gears, cam gear, and more... I have a couple of these engines for spare parts if you need something let me know. Jim Bourque

The casting number on my 25 Master transmission is 181362. I also have a 24 6 cylinder transmission with casting number 37846. The differences I have found is the 24 uses a square main shaft and the 25 uses a spline main shaft. The 24 transmission does not have the large brass sleeve bearing in the ball joint that bolts to the torque tube to support the driveshaft. I have not compared the transmission housings to see if they would interchange. The input shaft, cluster gears and shaft as well as shift forks do interchange. Not sure if shift tower will??? Jim

Scrape the heavy stuff off of them, spray them with oven cleaner and let sit. After a couple cold adult beverages, wash with a pressure washer. Jim

John I am wondering why you did not mention flushing the brake fluid while replacing all the brake discs/pads on the Passat? Has that been done recently? Jim