Jim Bourque

Kevin Attached pictures are of the S/G end cover I have for you and my cover. Sorry I don't have a spare cover, one of the few parts I don't have a spare for..... Let me know what else you might need and I will see if I have a spare Jim Bourque Last picture shows casting number of the cover, don't know the part number

Kevin I have one for you. Is that all you need? Jim Bourque

Kevin I just replaced the roller on the stater brush on my 1925 starter generator with a piece on GaroliteXX from McMaster Carr. I filed the brass away from the washer till the washer came off. Drilled a 1/2 inch deep hole in the center with an 1/8 inch drill bit. Cut a piece of the GaroliteXX tube, finished to size in the lathe, reinstalled on the brush holder with a small metal tapping screw and the original washer. The original material appeared to be Bakelite and the GaroliteXX is the modern equivalent. I would consider the temperature range of the nylon material you mentioned. I have plenty of the correct size GaroliteXX that I would be happy to send to you. Fortunately the other insulators on my unit were in excellent condition. Jim Bourque

My 1928 Cadillac had a similar problem. It was the torque tube ball bronze sleeve bearing that the u joint runs in that was way out of spec. I found it interesting the Cadillac ball was a Buick part! The sleeve bearing was exactly the same as my 25 Buick Master 6. The running clearance should be .004-.007 thousands Hope this helps Jim Bourque

Here are a couple of pictures of a 235CI Chevy distributer that I converted to run my 25 Master 6 Jim Bourque

Larry I may have some gland nuts that will work if they are the same as the Master 6. If it was my car I would make a stainless steel shaft and a coupler sleeve to attach to existing shaft. Morse taper pins to attach. Jim

Larry I have this pump that is marked 25 standard that I have no need for as my car is a 25 Master. Impeller diameter appears to be 3 1/2 inches and 4 bolts that hold it together. If it looks like what you need, it's yours for shipping cost. Pictures attached (I hope) Jim Bourque

Steve Verify that the roller axial and radial runout are true to the center hole. Should be no more than .001. Sine you have a lathe this should be easy to do with a dial indicator, turn a shaft to wring fit roller and verify it with the dial, then check each roller on it without removing shaft from the chuck. If you have more than .001 axial runout the roller will probably not rotate when installed in the tappet holder. Jim

Kevin The cam is held in the block with a brass plate with 2 fasteners behind the fiber cam gear. Drift the 6 flywheel bolts out with a brass punch, these bolts are special and must be reused. Jim

Jerry The valves are quite large in this series engine. The combustion camber is partially in the cylinder block (approximately 20%) and the balance in the head. The cylinder bore diameter is less than the width of the intake and exhaust valves. The gasket is sized to the portion of the combustion chamber in the head. Jim

Here are some pictures illustrating my question First try at the picture thing, I hope they post....... Jim

Thanks Rod W I had heard that the 24 and 25 Master engines were the same, but obviously there are minor differences. The question I have is what engine series are the short lifter holders from? Of the 2 complete and 2 partial 25 Master engines I have, one had the short lifter holders and because they were not held by the clamp plates, the cam and crankcase are now junk. Jim

Kevin It appears that what you have is not a 1925 Master engine. The 25 Master engine water pump/starter generator shaft bearing boss is directly under the cylinder block water inlet between # 3 and # 4 cylinders. The lifter holders that are in your engine are to short as the clamp plates should bear directly on them. There should not be springs on the studs that pull the lifter clamp plates down on the lifter holders. The springs that push the lifters to the cam are also wrong as others have indicated. All of this needs to be correct or you will suffer significant camshaft damage if you have not already. Jim Bourque

There are 3 empty holes that you can put bolts through and install nuts on to clamp the outer cover to the inner. That will keep the spring compressed while you take the clutch pack apart. You will not be able to replace the lining on the cover unless you clamp the inner and outer covers in a vise and remove the 3 bolts/nuts. When reinstalling/assembling the clutch pack leave the covers clamped together to realign all plates with the drive pins and center spider using the transmission input shaft to locate the whole thing to the flywheel Jim

My 28 341A had a similar problem. Check the banjo bolt fuel connection where the fuel line enters the tank. You will probably have to remove your rear trunk rack and the panel that covers the fuel tank to get at it. Rust/crud collects there and reduces the flow to the vacuum fuel pump/tank. Make sure your gas cap vent is working. check for cracks in the vacuum fuel pump pot metal top, if you suspect any are there, seal with crazy glue as it is ethanol resistant. make sure the gasket under the pot metal top (fuel pump) is sealing. My engine vacuum pump pulls 6" at idle and 11" at higher RPM. You may also have a "check valve issue" in the vacuum tubing plumping. I had to install a 1/3 PSI one way check valve between the intake manifold and the vacuum junction block to get my car to climb the mountains here in Vermont. At extended full throttle climbs my fuel pump runs only on the engine vac pump. Good luck and remember, you just have to be smarter than the car! Jim

Thank you Leif. On the 1929Buick.com site I found a copy of a 1926 engineering book that shows the standard and master oil pumps. The standard pump housing is different from the master but I could not read the part #s to see if the gears were the same. I cant believe I am the only person out there with a worn out oil pump??? !!! Jim East Dover Vermont

I hope this is the correct place to post this request. I am in the process of rebuilding a 1925 Master 6 engine and have not been able to locate a serviceable oil pump. I currently have 4 pumps with a casting # of 165487 (part #?) and all are worn out. I have contacted a custom gear shop to have oversize pump gears made and to re-machine the housing and resurface the bronze lower plate. This pump I know was used in the 24 and 25 Master 6'S and probably used in the later Master's as well. If the same pump was used in the Standard 6,(maybe one of the Buick experts that visit this site would know) this would open up the possibility of a need to produce a number of these gears verses the 2 sets I am going have made. Pricing would drop dramatically with a run of 15-20 sets. I am also looking for a good starter drive gear that goes on the starter/generator shaft for the same 1925 Master 6 If you are in need of these gears or have any thoughts or suggestions please feel free to contact me at bourque@hughes.net Thanks Jim Bourque

Will a 1926 Master 6 engine/transmission bolt into a 1925 Master 6 frame? Thanks Jim