Narve N

Any tips to for how to rectify this? My Series 65 with original autovac/vacuum tank has an intermittent fuel delivery, apparently the fuel intake valve gets stuck in closed position and then the tank runs empty (normally in the middle of dense traffic) and requires a lot of rattling to come free again. Is this a sign of worn needles, weak springs, or can anything else be done?

Here are some dealer photos of my car, apparently I have never made any myself focusing on the interior: Also, since you are in San Francisco, do you know anything about the Mullen Motor dealership originally selling the car? (The Old Car Weekly article repeats the incorrect information of Highlander being a distinctive sub-series in 1940.)

I have at least three 1940 Chrysler ads with those small dogs placed in and around the cars, very charming. Here are the nameplates of the hood and dash of my 1940 Chrysler New Yorker Convertible with Highlander option interior and Fluid Drive, as you can see the name "Highlander" is nowhere included. Maybe the 1941 models had it?

I have now checked that the tune on my car's horns is indeed "The Campbells are coming". Pity videos cannot be uploaded as I have a drive with horns ablaze on record.. The horns works best with a good battery plus a steady charge from the generator, and some drops of oil in the right spots.

First year of the Highlander interior option was 1940. Contrary to some sources I do not believe the Highlander was any unique branded series for 1940, but rather just an option. On my New Yorker it was numbered 891 and called "Red Combination Plaid". The car by the way has those 4-tone horns, but that is not mentioned as an option for 1940 in the catalog .. maybe retrofitted by a previous owner.

I have checked the Parts manual. Parts # 79380 is the complete M/C for S65 and S75. This main chamber which I intend to use on a Series 65, carries #79382. Interestingly the complete M/C for an early model V (Series 70) is marked as #303934, but it looks like the main chamber might be common for several models 1929 through 1931.

Thanks for the many inputs so far, although none of my initial questions has been addressed. I will mount the black-wrinkle finish carb on the engine this winter and get my own firsthand experience with a DD-3. The other parts will likely be offered for sale.

I have used these guys and am generally satisfied with the quality. The condenser is not necessarily rated 6V or 12V, but what is a correct condenser capacitance for a 25 Maxwell is another question. https://brillman.com/

Do you have any more information on these two as they turn out blank (no information, no links, no pictures) when I try to google them?

Apologies for calling it AAV-1 out of memory. The correct designation is AAV-2 which was used as the single carb on Chrysler 323 cui L8 in the period 1938 - 1948. I have some experience with AAV-2 and surplus carbs for my 1940 New Yorker, and wonder if it would work on a 385 too. That is if both the DD-3 carbs fail to perform. Next I can go for a multicarb setup, but maybe not with Winfields.

Interesting, but rather disillusioning comments. The black wrinkle finished carb is supposedly overhauled and the loose float chamber top came along it, maybe someone replaced the pitting/bubbling potmetal part with a repro of slightly different design? As for replacement/somewhat more modern carb, has anyone tried the AAV-1 out of a 323 L8 on the larger 385 L8?

Can anyone shed some light about the differences between these DD-3 carbs from two 1931 Imperial CG engines plus a spare float bowl lid? The top sides look rather different. Also appreciate inputs to what would be the correct finish (black and chrome versus zinc and brass straight from the vapor-blaster), and whether the numbered brass plaque actually is a serial number for the carbs.

Interesting, I much appreciate if you can include a photo of the notch. I may be wrong that the S65 and S75 MCs are 100% identical.

Series 65 and 75 are identical if that helps. The best will always be to have it sleeved, as I now will do with my 2nd out of 4 restorations. Two good, two bad MCs. A major challenge is to seal properly between the two parts the MC is made of. This one had to be assembled three times to function.

I did advertise for parts on the Buy/Sell Mopar on AACA pages and received 4 bogus responses and one genuine. Stopped using the service after that, I believe AACA should at least make an effort to ensure that Forum users are real persons and not another "Nicolas Burwell" with an additional 10 aliases.

What torque did you use and did you re-torque the head after first warm up? Did you reuse the old bolts and oil the gasket when installing? I have had a similar issue of leakage on my Series 65s, although no blown gasket. Both engines needed to have the head skimmed, but I understand that you have already done so? and tell me how much I owe you

Make yourselves one of these, the regular brake adjusters from the 50s do not fit 14" diameter bands/drums anyhow.

I put a Fulton on my 1940 Chrysler and research then showed that Fentons and most likely the others were painted flat light green underneath to minimize unwanted reflections from the hood. Traces of that color could also be found.

Looks enjoyable, and with a dog as taken straight from a Tintin comics book. Now it is time to enjoy the car hopefully you will find it as rewarding as I do! I used my blue Series 65 yesterday for a rally celebrating an old road in Western Norway over the hilltop Tronåsen with up to 25% incline (and 30%+ decline going down on the other side). My clutch managed a restart mid-hill and unlike those with mechanical brakes I had no worries on going down. Great fun with the old Chrysler.

Everything is for my 1929 Chrysler Series 65 and it is now back on the car. No extras.

Here is an exploded view of my parts when I took my mechanism apart recently. I discovered to my horror that the windshield frame and mechanism is very exposed to rust and on reassembly I covered as much as possible in "cavity-antirust fluid".

The pictured Series 75 Roadster clearly has a folding windshield. Which is nice in good weather, refer my Series 65 pictured.

Good call. I checked my 1940 Chrysler body tag and can only decode small bits of it (C26N = NewYorker). This is a mysterious topic.

Your least worry should be the cork floats, an excellent example of if it aint broken, etc. Better use your energy to check the sending unit for proper range of ohms between all down and all up postions and hopefully a sliding value in between. At best the sending units should be measured with a working gauge. Experience shows that the gauge is most likely the culprit if circuit is bad. When checking four sending units; I found one with incorrect values, one (expensive) repro with no reading at all, one good after market that had the offset mounting hole at the wrong side - making it hit the tank wall (I will redrill it), and one original that was all OK.

Post a photo of your rim without the hubcap, maybe someone can identify it.