Narve N

We are currently restoring two different S75s here in Norway and have 4 instrument panels in between those. They all have the same layout and coloring, a nickel-plated surround with a black main panel accented by gold striping, and white instruments with black visors and digits. Kilometer and mph speedometers have identical layout. Max reading of speedometer can by the be checked by looking behind the corner to the left of the 0-marker, or by careful shaking of the dismounted instrument. This layout compares to Series 65 instruments that has a more square background (but still black color with nickel surround and what looks like a simplified silver accenting around each instrument), black instruments with white lettering and visor. The individual instruments of a Series 65 can be exchanged with Plymouth etc from the same era but some can only be mounted upside down.

The rumbling persist with the clutch depressed. It is not likely it is the rear end.

The clutch release bearing grease tube can be replaced by a grease zerk directly at the inlet of the original tube. Useful if the tubing has been punctured. As for serial code that would be the same as your engine number starting letter. Such the code for a Series 72 is J.

It is not my car so I do not know it in detail, but it is an all original mechanical configuration for the year.

A friend here in Norway has this 31 Nash 871 Convertible Sedan that despite its renowned 9-bearing crankshaft has annoying vibrations at certain road speeds, e.g. around 40 mph. Has anyone experienced disintegrating vibration dampers on these engines or have other tips for what to investigate?

Penetrating oil, careful heating (piston is likely aluminum), freezing (put in fridge for 24 hours), and then bang it out using a socket slightly smaller in diameter than the piston and a plastic mallet and a wood block under the M/C. Or if you can find a grease zerk that fits any of the threads, use a grease gun and pressurize the M/C apart. Measure the diameter and seek repair kit replacement through size. If you are lucky the diameter is the same as used in all Mopar until 1940ish and very common (1-1/4"?),. although no vendors list parts for a 1924-1927 Chrysler anymore. Cheers from Norway, I am currently restoring my 3rd 1929 Chrysler

Someone in Sweden or Norway must have a block/complete engine. Have you tried advertising in the Swedish WPC Club and other national multimake clubs/facebook groups? Several people like Göran Ambell who put a late-gen Hemi in his 40s Chrysler etc (believe his car was 6-cyl). I know about a dismantled block here in Norway for sale, but that is likely a 38 or earlier.

The body color data tag is likely correct, however the NewYorker clearly has been repainted. Here is my 52 Saratoga firewall, with several production stamps from its assembly (in Los Angeles by the way). I cannot see anything like that on the otherwise nice NewYorker.

I started out with standard Model A plugs in my Series 65 engines, but both engines appear to run better with these W18 plugs that also are slightly longer reach. My engines are however with Silver Dome heads, might be a clearance issue with Red Head? https://brillman.com/product/7-8-champion-spark-plug-75-reach/

Steele rubber molding? I remember such for a 1940 Chrysler back in 2001 was too thick and when the experienced handsman applied force to wiggle everything into place, the original windshield broke. It was the first windshield he had broke in 20 years, he told. Faulting the windshield, we then had two new made (flat glass) which would not fit into place no matter what. Ended up grinding a few millimeters off each new windshields to get everything in. If the old molding is around, I recommend to compare the thickness with the new.

Very impressive. Do you have the numbers for the MAX-4050 starter also? I notice advertising of a modern high torque starter for late L8s (believe 1949 is the year in the advert). The UK company could also provide a 6V version I was told. https://www.amp-starters.co.uk/Automotive-Equipment/WOSP-Reduction-Gear-Starter-Motors/Chrysler-Starters/WOSP-LMS1058---Chrysler-straight-eight-323ci-New-Yorker-1949-Reduction-Gear-Starter-Motor__p-5435-599-3412-143117.aspx

I have made a driveline package out of a 1947 323 L8 and the flywheel and transmission from a 1938 Imperial. By redrilling some mounting holes I converted the engine from Fluid Drive to manual and it all looks workable. Together with the transmission came an Autolite starter of type MAX-4003, which I understand was fitted to various models? That starter worked sort of initially, although I am not certain it was the best choice being very cramped between the oil-stick, the engine itself, and starter body and starter solenoid. The MAX-4003 now has developed a short and require expensive repairs and I am looking for replacement alternatives. Can anyone support me with what starters I might use, from what years and models of cars, do you by any chance have a working starter laying around (I have an US East Coast shipping address). I have tried for fit an early Chrysler Hemi starter (looks similar but the mounts are differently located).

KM Lifestyle sold me a non-functioning sending unit some years back. Unfortunately I did not test it on purchase and any warranty was long gone when I finally mounted it, but I am rather disappointed in the company's lack of response to my e-mail asking for likely faults to check and if it can be repaired. Having said that, I replaced the sending unit with one from another Mopar. Looks like the style and ohm-range is standard for several years, and maybe 30% of the old ones I have tested are still functioning.

I have used Ford Model A stuff on a Series 65 Roadster. Works well.

Was anyone looking for such clamps? We here in Norway are contemplating casting a reproduction in bronze of this nice original for another Series 75 which misses the clamp altogether.

Reckon that wooden dash is homemade?Dashboard is made in steel on the Series 65s which I know, typical Series 65 dash would have some oval mounting holes as mentioned here. Anyhow you can both push the mount all the way to the top of dash rearside and shorten the bracket to raise the steering wheel. The seating in my Series 65s is cramped and I spent a bundle on lowering the seat cushion (so that I could see under the windshield upper framing). Still the entry/exit is difficult and I drive the car with legs slightly crossed, but I manage to close the door and my legs are not hitting the steering wheel!

Sounds peppy at speed. Nice!

Absolutely, I have checked all of my 4 sending units and 3 gauges with a multi-meter including cross-checking to isolate issues. One gauge was working, but this is a model normally placed differently in the dash of 31 model Plymouths (?) and ends upside down if placed in the Series 65. I solved it temporarily by shifting its location with the ampere-meter, which now is upside down but otherwise a more stable gauge. Of the sending units, the expansive replica I had bought specifically for this car was defective (lots of money gone, the vendor doesn't even answer my e-mails asking for hints for repair), but I am getting away by borrowing a sending unit from my model CG.

Anyone willing to recommend a vendor for repair of my 1929 Series 65 Fuel Gauge or having done it themselves and able to give me a hint of what to look for? I bought this NOS gauge from eBay many years back after fierce bidding and at great cost. It looks fabulous, but does not work just like these typically never do. My previous experiences with either Norwegian or US instrument repair vendors are mixed, so could any of you recommend a good contact?

You are absolutely correct, I probably should have done the calculation by head and not by putting incorrect numbers into an excel sheet. I will correct that number. Anyhow I will be glad to pass the windshield frames on for a fair price to anyone having a car where they will fit. I sold one to a friend with a Series 75 ("must be 75 since it was 1929 and not 65") That was a totally wrong assumption and I had it returned, and net time I will make sure it fits before being shipped.

Here is a measurement of the unknown windshield. Of course I only found a metric measuring-tape, but 99 cm equals 39" where the correct Series 65 windshield is 40" or maybe 40,5" wide. I also measured the minimum outside height at windshield center which is 10,5".

Has anyone ever seen a second (and slightly narrower) variety of the 1928/29 Chrysler Series 65 Roadster windshield or other wise can tell me what I have here? Some 15 years ago I just ordered two new Series 65 windshield frames from NC Industries and duly received the non-fitting narrow version and then had to reorder with a pattern before I received a second batch of the wider version. Of course I should have done the pattern route to start with, but now I have two nice frames that do not apply to any of my cars and am looking for hints to where they might fit. After having done a total of 5x Series 65s from very early version to rather late in production (both US and Canada produced), I do not believe that the Series 65 cowl came in two versions. It must rather be that a previous customer labeled their pattern Series 65 incorrectly and unfortunately that pattern is what NC Ind grabbed when I made my order. So is anyone familiar with cars of the era and can tell if e.g. a Series 62 or a Plymouth might be the correct application for the narrow windshield? Illustrations shows the non-fitting part in front of a correct windshield for Series 65 Roadsters.

On the subject of 90 year old dash-mounted coils, I discovered that the good one I had only was good when cold, the spark went weak when engine was up to running temperature and the car would only run 25 mph on my test hill when it would do 32 with a cold coil. Ended up with zip-strapping a second (newish) coil on top of the OEM style and the car would do the testhill at 32 anytime. Marty Lum used to advertise a conversion, looks like Bernbaum has a replacement ignintion switch for the old mounts. Have since found similar issues with the coil in my 1940, when the special firewall mounted coil was replaced with a correct replacement the car would continue running well after engine had heated up.