Narve N

The original style distributor cap on a Series 75 has each cylinders plug-wire mounting marked on its lid to ease assembly. However on this engine the numbers doesn't match. When adjusting the ignition with cylinder #1 on top, the rotor roughly faces cylinder #3 indicating that the rotor shaft is out by about 60 degrees. As the distributor only fits two ways 180 degrees apart, something else must be done. Has anyone encountered this issue and what is the solution, would it require to drop the pan and to remove the oil pump?

The links doesn't work for me either, unfortunately.

A handle like this found on a 1929 Series 75 Convertible Sedan can be installed if it otherwise difficult to close the door. I believe these were more common prior to 1931, but it will not look out of place on a 31.

The engine in the car predates the 23"/25" distinction, note that the distributor is on top indicating a first generation Mopar engine. With its waterpump outlet pointing to the right it is similar to the last two versions of the smaller 7-bearing sixes that Chrysler made up to 1930 (Series 60-62-65-66), more precisely a Series 65 or Series 66. By the way, that rather unique waterpump might be worth a good chunk of your gas money going to Oregon. Enclosed a picture of my Series 65 engine with a yardstick illustrating its 24 3/4" head.

Nothing wrong with tasteful modifications that can be reserved. I reckon it is no coincidence that your car also would have similarities with the 30s version of CG #3110 (the black Roadster famously sold earlier this year)?

If they originally were brass, they must nowadays have been replaced on most cars that are in use? I checked the local Series 75 today and all manifold nuts were steel, but I have also seen a mix with brass nuts on other cars.

Is there any good alternatives to the DD-3, besides its immediate successor the EE-3? Would be very nice to have a more modern carb in reserve in case a DD-3 fails.

As found on the internet.

Does your 38 have vacuum wipers or does this car already have electric? Two-speed electric wipers became standard on all 1940 Chryslers, an industry first and roughly 20 years ahead of Ford etc. My 1940 NewYorker came from Arizona with original two-speed electric wipers that were stuck when I bought it in 2013, possibly due to the car had never been taken out in the rain for the last 30 years. Here in Norway rain is never far away and operating wipers is important, almost as important as having RainX or similar routinely put on your pre-1970 vehicle. Anyhow, some lubricating fluid (WD40 etc) and patient gentle rocking made them work again and they have been sort of reliable for the last 10 years.

Appreciate the offer and will get back to you, generally is there any vendor selling these?

Anyone having illustrations of an add-on vent for the rear axle?

I have had success with reusing the outer parts from an old seal and having a renewed inner seal in modern materials mounted inside to fit the axle dimension, made by a company specializing in this trade. Actually cost less than buying an very old aftermarket seal.

Is it an updraft or downdraft carb? If updraft, the best choice is a Carter BB-1 aftermarket.

Agree, also not that the tube goes on the front side of the pumpkin and that most exposed parts of the tube is covered in spirals made of steel.

I've had them made in Norway by a machinist with an automatic milling machine.

Having disassembled three Series 75, I have the understanding that they came both with the strange demountable brake shoes and with the ones cast in one piece (now I know what those four bolts are for). Same goes for drums with or without the access holes, do not believe that they are on all S75 drums (but I will have closer look now).

Have you considered vaporblasting? These pistons are NOS but were very dirty with stuck rings after 90 years of storage, came out as new with everything fresh after light blasting with glassbeads and water.

Hartford is still in the business (UK) and can likely give you a good starting position for adjusting your shocks, number of discs etc. Do you have any pictures of the shock mounts as adapted to Hartfords? I have bought two pairs and would like to give them a try, as the stock ones leaves a lot to wish. Anyhow interesting to learn about the S72 that failed at Goodwood and details about why would be much welcome.

Could you provide a birds-eye view of your bumper bar lay-out front and rear, I believe my project is missing some parts?

My car had several sources of noise and vibrations when I first put it on the road after its restoration. Apparently one of the valve lifters has an uneven surface and repeated attempts to adjust the valve clearance have not silenced the valve clatter at low RPM. An all-new propeller shaft with more modern universal joint helped a lot against vibrations in general, but I still feel there is a humming noise/vibration coming from the transmission. That vibration disappear when I press the clutch and becomes annoying at higher RPM. Suspect transmission bearings at either end. I might try to replace the entire transmission this winter to see if that cures it (have a few spares). Anyhow I am very interested in what anyone else has experienced. Enclosed photo from my participation in a low key hill climb with the otherwise bone stock Series 65. It was a lot of fun and paintwork did not suffer much. Note rumble step pads on left rear as this Candian-built car originally was a RHD for the UK market

My guess is that there is very little difference between a S72 and a S75. Almost same engine, same gears available in the rear. However, some of them had a 3,9 rear and others had 4,3 (maybe even 4,6) that would make a difference. I am hoping to achieve 60 mph cruising with the S75 I am currently restoring (3,9 rear). My S65 with 4,3 rear is comfortable at 45 mph and will do 55 mph as verified by GPS. Transmission vibrations has stopped my attempts to gain and maintain 65 mph as advertised back in 1929 for the S65. By the way, has anyone a cure for transmission vibrations??

Looked up in "Standard Catalog of American Cars" (Volume1, 1805-1942) by Austin/Kimes (1996), which states your measurement 118 3/4" for Series 72, and also "American Car Spotters Guide 1920-1939" by Ted Burness (1975) states 118 3/4", while "70 Years of Chrysler" by Dammann (1974) quotes 120 1/2". Typically if one publication has an incorrect piece of information, others will copy that. I have through the years found several bits of incorrect information in the Dammann book, so a misguided wheelbase could easily sneak in. I do have a Series 72 chassis, but not at my location, so a check of that would have to wait for some weeks.

My impression is that although few color options were listed simultaneously for a type of bodywork, the colors available changed more than one time during production of any series. Like a different set of colors for the Spring etc. This could also be the case for CD8, a Series that noticeably also was otherwise altered a lot during its production.

Would this be accurate enough, guess it should be possible to interpolate spacing against molding width and Hayes tag size? I can make measurements by the mm, but that would take some days.

They are different for various bodyworks, but a Roadster one can be cut down from some other versions. I do believe I have a rotten Roadster version laying around, suitable for copying including mirroring for the other side.