Narve N

Tonz, you should take some measures, overall inside diameter circular light opening diameter etc. It is rather likely that a generic beehive taillight lens would fit. I know I have a late 20s Dodge taillight that looks very similar.

I get YD534L which makes it a Series 60 manufactured in Feb 1927. The FEDCO code also translates into serial number 595347.

That would likely be correct for a 1928-1930 Mopar. It is the same style that Verdone cast for my Series 65, and then decided not to run with as I discovered period photos of c1929 Chrysler with no saddles. (I sold on those saddles before anyone asks.)

Looks like a good path. I have restored two Series 65s and did not care to reactivate the manifold heater control on any of them, but put a thermostat in both cars' thermostat housing.

If I recall correctly the dimensions are the same as most/maybe all 30s Mopars? I can try to see if a spare thermostat I have laying around will fit the loose thermostat housing I also have laying around.

You probably have a Series 70 car (normally cited as 1930 models), but what is your engine? Casting number on the head doesn't tell much, what is the serial number? Series 70 engines should start with the letter V. Also note there is a mid-production engine change starting with V-13595 when a larger engine was introduced.

Good idea, except that rebuilt transmissions are becoming rather pricey and difficult to find. If you can pin down likely candidates for the problem without dismantling, and have spares ready when taking the transmission, apart that will save you money and take less time than dismantling to investigate before ordering parts.

I have now secured the remains of what is likely a Series 72 Roadster (standard equipped with Red Head as far as I can understand). The bodywork was reportedly stored somewhere else and nobody knows where that might be, but maybe it will turn up later? The blue colored body parts was first identified as being from a rare 1929 Pontiac Landaulet, then a Pontiac owner believed they were from a slightly older GM product. I anyhow left them behind, but managed to pass on a free second Series 72 frame and front axle to a friend of mine. I will repair the Red Head water neck with parts from a Series 75 engine I myself buried in my mothers yard back in 1992, likely using cast iron welding or brazing for this non-stressed part of the head. Then the head will be tested on a Series 75 Dual Cowl Phaeton my friend is restoring, to investigate into whether the advertised extra hp is noticeable.

By this site you mean the AACA Chrysler Forum that also this topic is on? I anyhow believe setting up is straightforward with likely the same gap on both breakers, but can check a Series 75 Owners Manual tomorrow for confirmation of the procedure.

Here in Norway I have never seen any other language than English, but I would suspect that cars sold in slightly larger non-English speaking markets e.g. Germany where Chryslers were popular in the late 20s - would have to be in local language/in this case German.

Coming to my memory: About 20 years ago I was able through a friend to buy a 1947 323 engine from a wrecking yard in the Portland area, possibly from Wildcat Auto Wrecking refer https://www.wildcatmopars.com/ . We even managed to have the engine overhauled with parts at the premises. You could check with them if memory serves me right.

The mesh goes inside the tin canister at the intake side of the oil pump and locks with a clip. Pictured L and R are 2x oil pump for Series 65 that have the same mesh as Keiser illustrated, the mesh can just be glimpsed at the bottom of pump at left. The pump on the right has by the way been blueprinted by Tony Smith of Montana Dodge Boys fame, raising the pressure at warm idle from 2-3 lbs to maybe 8-10 and at speed from 10-ish to 20-30 which gives me one thing less to worry about when driving.

Looks very much alike the repros in stainless I have laying around (bought for my Series 65 project), that are still requiring lots of sanding to gain any gloss. Could you post a picture with measurements?

Initial posting (Gasket) displays regular machine bolts in the mounts. The bolts should rather be pointed to insert and grip tight below the windshield post top "head/bowl". On my Series 65 I initially used Ford Model A non-locking bolts (worked fine, same thread) and then replaced these by proper repro bolts with locking nut from Verdone as per Marty Lum's drawing from years back. Unfortunately neither Verdone nor Marty is active anymore.

Ca 1930 Chrysler UK had bodies made by Carlton and Hoyal and likely by others. This CD with Carlton body is similar to the thread-start photo? I have seen this car offered with two different UK registrations, the initial (RAR99) likely was sold on separately. The most recent photos show this car with a Netherlands registration.

My 1929 Series 65 as painted by myself based on advice from Sherwood Kahlenberg (long time president of the WPC Club) given to me around 1982: ca 1955 Ford Meadow Green color with silver (red) on head and with black accessories. However I do not know when this color was introduced and I also have noticed different opinions on the correct shade of green on e.g. a 1931/32 Imperial. As I bought 1 liter of the Meadow Green back in 1983 I'll stick with it and have used it on three engines so far, at least two more to come.

4 different ratios is per the Parts List of 1933 (with references back to 25). Talking about Le Mans Classic, back in 2006 I was having a thrill watching the race and also talked to Ray Jones. He cold tell that he held all Bugattis on the straights before outbraking them in his rather optimized Series 75. Ray has since passed, but I wonder were that car is now?

Series 75 could be had with 3.9, 4.3, 4.6, and 4.9 final drive, a Roadster typically would be originally equipped with 3.9. Numbers on the casing are usually confusing, they differently made up from car to car, and subject to interpretation as illustrated here: Is this something manufactured in November with 4.3 ratio, is it a 43/11 = 3.9 ratio - or what. The gears inside could anyhow have been exchanged so a wise move would be to count the teeth to be sure. In general terms the name 75 indicate the speed that lightweight bodied cars could maintain so 120 kmh should be your target.

Well spotted, I never did check the text on the head. Maybe the missing thermostat housing piece is laying somewhere and can be glued back? I have asked for an engine number to confirm Series 72, but got no response so far. The car was told to be a Roadster, but none of the sheet metal present fits a Roadster to my understanding. Maybe I will have to visit the site in the week-end to hunt for more parts?

The following pictures of a frame plus some sheet metal is being advertised in Norway from an estate. Am I correct to assume the chassis is Series 72 and the sheet-metal might be slightly older, or is everything pre-28? Note external contracting brakes and tube front axle.

My 2 cent after hunting Series 65 parts for 40 years: As long as it is a small diameter chromed beehive style taillight, no one will be able to deny its applicability on a Series 65. An aftermarket item as shown in the initial posting will be a conversation piece of its own, if you care to tell anyone.

You would get better responses by renaming your quest to indicate what you are after, just "Chrysler 72" can be about anything. I would also recommend to investigate what other models do share the speedometer cable with Series 72, as I doubt anyone stock new cables. I might have S65 cables extra.

Try danielle.szostak@stellantis.com , she used to be part of Chrysler Historical and has provided build cards and support recently to other owners.

Much appreciated lead. Is there any more to this procedure on the Manuals next page?

Chrysler Historical did supply some copies previously as they likely do have a good selection of originals. Do not know if that service is still available. And eBay will show them time to time.