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Still have them laying around ? Lmn thanks in advance

WW: What an interesting concept; pre saged the idiot "low fuel" light Gotta' love those old Buick engineers!

Hopefully your Chrysler transmission functions properly now that its fluid is at proper level. Type A hasn't been generally available for nearly 50 years since one of its primary components was whale oil. Dexron was GM's approved substitute formulation for A; Ford created Type F in early 60s to remedy issues they were having with A in Cruise-o-Matics and F's friction properties just happened to work well in drag racing automatics. It was an open secret that B&M's high-priced "Trick Shift" fluid was F with some blue dye added. But I'll be first to tell you I don't know diddly about anything, much less automobiles.

Craig, I am in Alberta and rebuilding my 28-337 straight 8 at present, all parts are available , email me at warboird1923@hotmail.com and I will send you on a list of suppliers. Cheers

We reproduced them in stainless 20 years ago, and they sold out quickly. It fits Kelsey-Hayes drop center 18 inch wheels for Buick, Stude, Pierce, Stutz, and maybe Jordan. The others you listed use a different ring. Here they are on my car.

I have made early gas tanks using 20ga galvanized plated sheet steel. This is what the HVAC industry uses but 20 is a thicker gage than they typically use. It is mostly zinc and soldered easily. I like to use 1/8 in electrical rosin core solder to start the tinning process followed by solid core. Rosin clean up isn't as critical as acid flux. Make sure that cut edges that expose steel are outside the tank or solder those edges if inside. I've also had to make new water tanks for the radiator system . Those were originally galvanized but I made those out of copper. Tank sealants won't withstand boiling coolant.

Here’s the wire with damaged insulation I mentioned earlier

I didn’t realize the side cover does not cover the whole plug side of the head- added paint yesterday to correct. I cut out the generator gasket and cleaned the mounting bolts as well. The distributor still eludes me-

What days are you traveling? I will be traveling from Schenectady to the Rochester area on Tuesday, then to Strongsville on Wednesday

1. Linng and rivets are available from McMaster-Carr 2. These drums are too thin to turn. Hopefully they are not worn too much. 5/32 may be impossible to find. 3/16 will work if the drums are worn a bit.

MoPar # 978943 door latch and link is the correct part number that only fits the 3 pass and club cpe cars ...drivers door..(left side).

rust under the paint,probably wasn;'t pr43p3d w2ell--my 2 cents worth--space out your bolts, you"need more space to get coverage & not have the paint running on the floor---Tom

thanks for the info

I have been there before. Small show but a good one if you are into brass. It's about 5 or 6 hr drive for me. I'm trying to decide if I should go for Friday and come home Friday evening. My newest grandson is having his first birthday party Saturday and I can't miss that.

Hello all, I have an update! Mainly, the accumulator I bought worked as I hoped it would. I bought this accumulator for $100 at Rock Auto > LAND ROVER > 1995 > RANGE ROVER > 3.9L V8: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13793829&cc=1422896&pt=1580&jsn=8 ÜRO PARTS STC2784. I hope this helps someone in the future in the same situation as I was. It was half the price of the wabco one and I was willing to take a chance on $100 Easy replacement of the original that was still on mine. I also found the front driver brake hose had a hole in it that I was able to fix. Bled all the lines and got some junky old DOT 3 out and refreshed with new. Test drive went well. Both the accumulator and the brake hose had little things needed to make them work but only minor things. Tomorrow I'm doing another test drive to triple check the brake system before putting in the transmission speed sensor and taking it for a cruise to see if I can replicate the intermittent shuddering I felt before. The check engine light can't make up it's mind if it wants to stay on or not when I start the car, we'll see if that continues after resetting tomorrow.

'52 was 72 years ago...

Pre- Castro Havana

Glad to know I was going in the same direction as you!

Will do, as soon as the glue arrives.....and the oven I need 5/32" x 1 7/8" x 43" woven brass, and binding glue

I use the pins and apply a thin coat of high temp RTV to the gasket.

A couple of years ago we replaced the sending unit on our ‘65 Wildcat. I bench tested the ohm reading on the float arm before installation. It is a 90 ohm unit. At one extreme it read 90 ohms, the other extreme 0 ohm and 45 ohms at mid range. Just what I wanted to see! When I installed the unit and carefully measured the fuel I added to the tank, I found it consistently read about 1/8 lower than it should based on the amount of fuel I added to the tank (it has a 25 gallon tank). So 12.5 gallons (actually 1/2 full) read about 3/8 full. If the gauge read 3/4 full it actually had 7/8 of a tank - about 22 gallons. My factory service manual indicated that the gauge/sender was intentionally engineered to show less fuel than is actually in the tank - sort of a “fudge” factor to help procrastinating drivers from running out of gas? In my case the 1/8 of a tank variance is about 3 gallons. Since I know the discrepancy I’m fine living with it and decided not to attempt recalibrating it.