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  2. Rich, I changed all my interior lights out to LED. There is a LED that is Amber color that mimics the original soft lighting, but brighter. I left the glove box light incandescent. Jim Cannon mentioned he increased his incandescent lighting by one candle power. The best of my knowledge there is no LED bulb kit for the 63 Riviera. I’m happy to be wrong. Those little devils can get pricey. In the case of LED. Lighting I would stick with one company that supplies your whole set. If something doesn’t fit and it happens you want to be able to return the wrong LED. I had the idea of putting LED in my tail lights. My tail lights shorted themselves out. I put back the incandescent 1157 in metal bulb sockets I grounded to the body. Lights work fine. I tried LED in the cornering lights. I could not get the LEDs to fit. Now all my problems could very well be my lack of experience in auto mechanic efforts. Its probably easier to take the dash off to get to the lights for the HVAC panel lights. If you remove the A PILLAR skins the dash won’t have the edges scraped. It was a hassle for me, but Zi like to be able to see at night. turbinator
  3. If you want to keep the slightly yellow glow of the original bulbs, get warm white. IMHO, cool white (5000+K) are glaring and unnatural.
  4. Hugh Ive been changing my oil every 2 years and it comes out looking pretty clean but I’m only doing about 750-1000 miles in that time. Also we’re pretty lucky as we’re unlikely see temperatures fall much below the 50s and nor do we have high humidity to contend with. I suspect oil change interval is more around how you use the car and not time but as others have pointed out oil changes are relatively cheap insurance so I think I’ll just keep changing it.
  5. Australia made bodies from scratch, due the import taxes of the time. GM Holden made bodies for a lot of brands (not just GM). Are different in detail from USA Fisher TJ Richards (Chrysler) was another major local Au body builder
  6. I'm just trying to figure out what a "normal scratch" is
  7. I am going to be going through the same process as Hugh and Larry D. when my 1916 D-45 comes back home. I will have a different situation than these guys. The transmission case and oil pan on my engine is cast aluminum. I have given some thought to taping a very strong magnet around the drain plugs on both the pan and transmission drains. Even on this fresh rebuild I will add a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with the rest of the oil. I am thinking that I will stick with a mineral oil instead of the synthetic stuff that is so prevalent these days. I will run Havoline 20W50 as I do in all of our modern vehicles. I want to stay with the mineral oil because I have heard that the synthetic oils do things to seals that cause them to leak. As always, this is a good place to learn things. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  8. This happen a lot with this car : Please park your car in the import class. It is German..
  9. Ray For me cold the 26 Standard runs around 30 psi but as it warms up this drops to around 20-25 psi. However before I flattened the oil pump bottom plate and replaced the broken pressure relief spring I was lucky to get 10-15psi. This is on a motor with 75,000 original miles without a major rebuild so a fresher engine may do better. My 26 does have the factory pancake oil filter (one year only design) mounted on the firewall still in circuit. While I doubt it does anything other than drop oil pressure I’m reluctant to turn the shut off valve as it’s pot metal and likely to fall apart in my hand
  10. I thought so too. If it weren't pouring rain I would go outside and take a picture. Well. that explains it. I would have expected if they were sending things all the way from North America, New Zealand would have got the same stuff Australia did. I guess not. The grille sure looks like it. It's probably from a different car. Were there any Fisher bodied Studebakers? Just for fun, have a look at this thread:
  11. SEV = Stuurgroep Experimenten Volkshuisvesting
  12. Drove my 39 Special 80 miles round trip last Saturday to Sauder Village Museum in Archbold,OH for their annual Antique Car Festival. Cars must be 1942 or earlier and stock or restored to stock. NO rods or modifieds. My kind of show!! 80 ish cars displayed throughout the village either under or near many shady trees. No entry fee or trophies. They give you $20 "Sauder Bucks" to spend anywhere in the Village. The show usually is held in mid May. Lovers of prewar cars within a roughly 50 mile radius of Archbold (NW Ohio) should make this a yearly place to be.
  13. Today
  14. I have the original Pertronix in my 53 Buick Special 6 volt system for over 10 years with no problems. However, I noticed when the battery is near the end of its life, the engine will start just as the starter disengages because the voltage is higher than when the engine is being cranked by the starter. This happened recently when my 7 year old Type 2E battery gave up. Now with the new 3EH from Tractor Supply the engine sounds and starts like it has a 12 volt system. By the way, the newer Pertronix for the 6 volt Buick’s is not the same as the original in that it is more of a universal 6 volt device. Joe
  15. I am having problems with my '90 TC convertible top. The lower fabric 'rubber strip' on the outside bottom no longer seals against the rear window glass, allowing water to build up along the rear window. It doesn't leak into the storage area, but unless it dries out, when I put the top down, the water splashes into the rear compartment. What can I do to restore the 'sticky' to the fabric rubber strip to keep the water from building up along the bottom of the convertible top? Thanks, Jim
  16. 1936 Pontiac fast back style (or a close GM cousin. Buick would be model 47). Vent cowl looks GM style Look at the pressing in the firewall on this--> Not many 1930's GM Holden bodies in NZ. GM New Zealand assembled in Petone, Wellington using imported Fisher bodies For that shell "free" may be on the high side price!
  17. Man is that cool. Only a couple hours from me.
  18. 1939 Oldsmobile 6 & 8, 6V Negative ground, uses No. 5858 regulator. Probably third brush with a split field. About 28 amps.
  19. I have torque ball corrosion, the socket ball has corrosion to me it does not look like it is in the seal area. A torque ball retainer with the seal is on the way should arrive late this week. Then I will be able to confirm the area it runs on. If I fix this corrosion area, my thoughts are JB weld or similar product and smooth it out as needed. Has anyone run into this before, and come up with a fix? I have not looked in the manual yet it is not with me today does the torque ball have an orientation? I would think the oil hole in the bushing is at 6 o'clock Thanks in advance for the advice Steve
  20. It's actually a 28-29 Model A Fordor body with a later steering wheel
  21. Thanks Swede, I emailed those guys. Sounds like a great solution to the problem.
  22. Hmm, if I was looking for a car and had $35k in cash, I would not be looking at cars that were over $50K. And that is where the car is priced today, $52,500.
  23. Not a perfect date match, but could be worse.☺️ mine is missing the tag, so I don't even know what its for.😂 I'm curious though, are you sure Delco Remy is correct? I've always thought its supposed to be Autolite. but could be mistaken.
  24. Jpage, came through with template for me and I'd like to say thank you, so thank you Mr. Jpage, I see you always helping members out. Appreciate you taking the time to help out...
  25. PFitz

    brake drums

    Roger, July 11 1929. That could be a later production 29 or an early 30. Obviously, the castings runs would be made long before the car. And the first production cars came out in the later part of the previous year. I've seen an early production 31 with a July of 30 differential casting date. To be sure, measure the brake carrier tapered length and see if it matches either of the measurements in my last post. 29 or30, the good news is that it will take the new brake drums. Paul
  26. It is under ECM data in diagnostics which comes after the codes, but I am not as familiar with how it is displayed on the crt. I know there is a more complete listing on the '89's vs the '90 I am more familiar with so hopefully someone with the crt can guide you more accurately. The engine must be running to be able to display live data.
  27. Bob, from what I remember, the manual low band would not engage and I wondered if the variable pitch worked at all. Otherwise, it functioned OK back in the day. Before I had the Riv painted in '91, I farmed-out the Dynaslow rebuild, installed it myself and it leaked badly. Brought the whole car to them where they removed and patched it up. They broke my signal light cable and reluctantly did a N/C fix. Then I gutted the interior, stripped it for paint. After being painted, I started putting it back together but then kids came and a new house where I drove the Riv to it's new home sitting on a milk crate! So here in 2019 and on the home stretch, I plan to enjoy the Riv and it's Dynaflow come summer or bust! A 1965 ST-400 has been in my possession since 1980 and was meant for my 1st Riv, just a core now. Collected parts for the swap during the last 2 years just so I have it. One part, the 400 Trans mount, came out of a gutted '64 X-block Riv in a northern wrecking yard. I removed the last remaining parts that others have overlooked. But I left the STV on it. I will get it the next time, being just a core of course As for the AC, my A6 compressor has a yellow "Buick" stamp. Nitrogen is-a-plenty around here. The test will tell me how big the undertaking will be. I do want to fit those color coded vacuum hoses shortly. Where did you source yours? I have learned a lot on this car and the differences that the early '63s had. Bob, nice to see you can standby and watch your friend do the final touches. Let us know that you have finally achieved Canadian Cold! John B.
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