Michael_Blackburn Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I Just picked up this beauty sitting in a field owned by one man sold to me by his grandson 30 years after it was put in the field I love this car I'm going to have to completely restore it, I Had to get rid of the Interior, Mice had a heyday with it there was 30 years of mouse turds in the interior including the seats, everything has to be removed, All the rubber is shot and I'm going to have to replace it all too, As well as sanding and popping out the dents and removing one rust spot about the size of your fist next to the trunk so it can be repainted, its going to be painted Burgundy the original color inside and out and the seats are going to be completely re-done taking it to bare wires and painting them before re-upholstering them, Of course this is going to be a lifelong project, I want to fully restore it it's the most beautiful Car I Have Ever Owned I didn't know it had a semi automatic transmission that was A Good Surprise Anyway Can Anyone tell me where I can get a rebuild kit for a carburetor on this baby I think its a single barrel on a flathead 6 cylinder,Also where should I go to get what's needed to rebuild the transmission and engine any Advice would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Congratulations on your find. A carb kit should be available from any good auto parts store, or you could try the Carb King who posts on here regularly. If you want the low down on the semi auto trans do a search in the Chrysler section for Fluid Drive . It is a good transmission but it does require a special driving technique, easy when you know how but hard to figure out on your own. I will not say any more as this subject has been beaten to death, there were a couple of long threads back in 2008 that are quite informative. I have had several old cars like that. Chances are you can get it running without replacing any parts. Do not trust the gas tank, disconnect it and connect a motorboat gas tank or small gas can. Check the oil, clean the points carefully without disturbing the adjustment and there is a good chance it will fire up. I bet if I was there I could have it eating out of my hand in a couple of hours. Don't go tearing everything apart. Go over it and diagnose carefully what it needs. If you have compression, spark, and gas it should fire up. First thing take out the plugs and squirt a couple of spoonfuls of oil down each cylinder and see if it will turn over. If it will turn over go on to the sparks. Then give it a shot of gas and see if it will fire. If it will fire up let it run at a fast idle for 10 or 15 minutes. Don't forget to fill the rad if necessary. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 thank you That was very Informative I will Do what you suggested I have to hook up a battery and put hoses on it from the heater core they Disconnected it for some reason hopefully it has no leaks. Lol I'm going to print what you typed so I don't forget any steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 By the Way I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the end connector for my turn signal someone took it off And it looks odd, or would it be better to get a new turn signal control, I can get one of those on E-Bay for about 25.00 so pretty good price I'm pretty sure they are aftermarket do they work as well as the original, Mine is also broken on the top separated by at least a inch it is only the housing so I could JB weld the plastic back together, All I would have to do is Remove 2 rivet's one on top and one on the bottom and a couple of small screws, Also before I try to start it I have to replace all the chewed through wires under the dash I don't think there are any intact the radio wires ill do last I will just disconnect it until its repaired, Also I've never seen Battery Connections in the trunk can anybody tell me what they are for ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bamford Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 45 minutes ago, Michael_Blackburn said: ...Also I've never seen Battery Connections in the trunk can anybody tell me what they are for ? Could be a previous owner had a 12vt battery in the trunk wired to run, say, a stereo or other 12vt accessory. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 so this car Isn't 12 volt I was wondering about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 one site I went to said it could be a 6 volt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) 52 minutes ago, Michael_Blackburn said: one site I went to said it could be a 6 volt. Not 12 volt unless the previous owner changed it. It should be 6 volt positive ground. Edited June 19, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 thanks It Would be Bad If I put in a 12 volt if its a 6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28 Chrysler Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Quick Check Pull a head light, on the back it will say what voltage it is. It is most likely still 6 V positive ground. If the hearer hoses are off I would by-pass it for now. Look at the side of the engine block, a long crack is not good. Drain the oil, look for water or large metal pieces. When installing the battery make sure every thing is in the off position. If you should not have a spark when touching the last cable, mice can do a number on the old wiring. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Go here for parts....https://www.wildcatmopars.com/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 I get a feeling that this may be your first old car project. If so, you need to prioritize your efforts. Do not just begin tearing into it willy nilly with no real objective. Go over the car and determine what it needs right now. If the engine turns, drain and change the oil. As mentioned, get a boat tank and try to get it running. If it runs, turn your attention to the transmission. There is a lot of info on the Fluid Drive online. They're pretty reliable and usually work after a bit of tinkering. Rebuild the brakes. Rebuild the suspension. Replace all of the coolant hoses. Clean the gas tank and the fuel line. Reolace any rubber hoses. If the wiring is all chewed up or hacked up by previous owners, replacement harnesses are available. Don't burn your car to the ground. At this point, you should have a drivable car. Now, it's time to think about cosmetics, getting the radio working and other, less important, issues. There are cars for sale on Craigs List every day that the owner got into over his head and is trying to dump it, cheap, because he became overwhelmed. Oh yeah, be sure you have a clear title, in your name, before you spend a dime on it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 (edited) Your car is 6 volt, positive ground (opposite of modern cars). While we are at it, it had LEFT hand thread wheel bolts on the left side. The bolts should be marked L or R. Left hand threads means they unscrew the opposite way. These 2 things cause more grief to Chrysler newbs than anything else. For starting purposes you can use a 12v battery. Shut off everything but the engine. If the wiring is chewed you may want to disconnect everything and use a remote starter button under the hood and a jumper wire to the coil. It will start and run on 12v. Just don't grind and grind the starter too long, it will overheat. And the coil will overheat if you run it for more than half an hour. But for starting, moving the car around or warming up the motor a spare 12v battery is fine. In fact the extra oomph to starter and sparks will make it start a lot easier. Edited June 19, 2017 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Rusty_OToole's post # 2 and # 13 are solid gold. Most people un-necessarily take too many things apart at the same time. I have pulled cars out of the bush that were converted into tractors used and abused and then driven into the bush and left. Thirty or fourty years later, clean out the dirt, dress the points, check the oil, jury rig a gas line and connect a battery and I have never failed to get one to start. At least fifteen times and never had to replace any thing to make it run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Thanks Tinindian coming from you that is quite a compliment. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 On 6/19/2017 at 9:36 AM, 28 Chrysler said: Quick Check Pull a head light, on the back it will say what voltage it is. It is most likely still 6 V positive ground. If the hearer hoses are off I would by-pass it for now. Look at the side of the engine block, a long crack is not good. Drain the oil, look for water or large metal pieces. When installing the battery make sure every thing is in the off position. If you should not have a spark when touching the last cable, mice can do a number on the old wiring. how do you hook up 6 volt positive ground ive never heard of positive ground don't want to mess anything up do I hook up the positive temanal to the ground that's what it sounds like ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 (edited) Here....yes....positive battery cable to the frame or other solid ground area and negative cable to the starter solenoid.... Edited July 2, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 thank you I have to check the fluids on Tuesday I've been taping the wires that were damaged by mice that are not chewed all the way threw, I appreciate the schematic, I printed it out For the future,. I have never seen anything that wires up like this, It just kind of caught me off guard, I didn't even know they ever used negative ground, Much appreciated I've been having fun finding tires the ones that were on it didn't have any size indicator so I'm going by the height and Wight of the one tire that didn't go flat I've figured out it has 15 inch tires and I think I found the right ones would it hurt me to Paint my rims with chrome paint they have a lot of rust I have 8 of them though so I will have lots of spares I can paint ill wire brush it first then blow off all of the rust I can then I should be able to use Rusolium chrome bumper paint. the diagram is awesome I bought a tail light set on ebay with my covers intact for 50,00 and I'm trying to get a set of headlight trim I'm bidding on it now its at 20.00 now talk to you later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Definitely clean up the rims and paint them. I don't like the chrome paint but to each his own. I would use black, or maybe red if I wanted a 50s vibe. Incidentally I hope you didn't throw away the seats. You are going to need the springs and frames. NO other seats will fit properly. You will have to redo the old seats. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 I am planning to redo the seats it sounds like fun, I Checked my oil its still full but black as hell and I have to figure out which of the oil filters they have out now will fit this one has no numbers on it that I could see also how do you check the fluid in the semi auto trans ? I've never seen a oil filter upside down, I also pulled my passenger head light off it has no markings on the back I am going to have the wiring to them replaced there isn't much wiring left going to the lights The mice had a heyday at least on the passenger side, What gauge wire should I get so I can go back to good non chewed wire I know it has to be A Fairly heavy gauge The connectors are intact and very old looking. and should I replace the oil if possible before starting ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 On 6/19/2017 at 1:17 AM, Rusty_OToole said: Congratulations on your find. A carb kit should be available from any good auto parts store, or you could try the Carb King who posts on here regularly. If you want the low down on the semi auto trans do a search in the Chrysler section for Fluid Drive . It is a good transmission but it does require a special driving technique, easy when you know how but hard to figure out on your own. I will not say any more as this subject has been beaten to death, there were a couple of long threads back in 2008 that are quite informative. I have had several old cars like that. Chances are you can get it running without replacing any parts. Do not trust the gas tank, disconnect it and connect a motorboat gas tank or small gas can. Check the oil, clean the points carefully without disturbing the adjustment and there is a good chance it will fire up. I bet if I was there I could have it eating out of my hand in a couple of hours. Don't go tearing everything apart. Go over it and diagnose carefully what it needs. If you have compression, spark, and gas it should fire up. First thing take out the plugs and squirt a couple of spoonfuls of oil down each cylinder and see if it will turn over. If it will turn over go on to the sparks. Then give it a shot of gas and see if it will fire. If it will fire up let it run at a fast idle for 10 or 15 minutes. Don't forget to fill the rad if necessary. hey Rusty I Have A bottle Mounted on the back of engine compartment I'm not sure what its for it doesn't have anything hooked up to it, It says upper oiler do you have any Idea what its for and what I'm supposed to hook it up to ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 The wiring diagram above attempts to give wire gauges. Might need to get yourself an original. The "upper oiler" is probably an aftermarket upper cylinder lubricant device. Not necessary, but can be useful if you drive the car intermittently. They usually work on manifold vacuum and over-oil; upper cylinder lubricant is really only of benefit for a few moments at startup and at shut down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Michael, the very best, most worthwhile, and greatest Return on Investment money you can spend is for (1) a factory shop manual, whether original or reproduction, and (2) a membership in a club catering specifically to your vehicle. Read the manual very carefully, add post-it notes, and many of your questions will be answered therein. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john2dameron Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 About 1954 a dark blue '49 Dodge 4-Door sedan showed up at a local mechanic shop needing a timing chain. I guess it was for sale because I was sure I just had to have it but it was only a passing fancy. Did anyone else besides Ford Motor Company and Chrysler Corporation use positive ground in 1949? What about the independents like Studebaker and Hudson? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harold Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Michael, Welcome to the forum and the world of old Mopars. There is a lot of good advice in this thread so far. I'd suggest joining the P15-D24 forum ( http://p15-d24.com/forum/4-p15-d24-forum/ ) which is dedicated to flathead-powered Chrysler products. There is a wealth of knowledge on that forum as well. When oiling the cylinders, you should aim the oil to the driver's side of the engine (I use a squirt can with a long flexible nozzle) because the park plug openings are offset to the passenger's side of the block and the cylinders are not directly beneath them. Your Dodge was built with a 6-volt positive ground electrical system. If it's been changed over to negative ground, an easy way to tell is by connecting a battery with the positive terminal going to ground on the engine block and the negative terminal connected to the short battery cable that goes to the starter relay. Turn on the headlights and if the ammeter goes towards 'discharge' then the electrical system is still positive ground. Best of luck with your project and keep us updated on your progress. Don't hesitate to ask questions because we're here to help each other. Harold 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 And polarize your generator before you try to start the car! The service manual will tell you how. As far as I know, All 6 volt sealed beam headlights are interchangeable. One possible part number is 6006. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 5 hours ago, Grimy said: Michael, the very best, most worthwhile, and greatest Return on Investment money you can spend is for (1) a factory shop manual, whether original or reproduction, and (2) a membership in a club catering specifically to your vehicle. Read the manual very carefully, add post-it notes, and many of your questions will be answered therein. thank you I Havnt receives my anteq plates yet but I will see about joining a club I did get a shop manual reproduction made in 1977 I'm reading through it I did look on the sheet you gave me with the wiring it said the lights are 16 gauge so that's what I bought I also got oil that was hard to find they almost run detergent in all oils I searched for 30 minutes before I found it, .Of course I can only imagine that I have a 6 volt set of lights since they are not markedim wondering if I can run LED lights on this car they don't use as much power to run I Have 4 tires and a manual tire changer so I can do my own tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Please do your pocket and the engine a favour and DO NOT run non-detergent oil. All the thinking about it is completely erroneous and ill-informed. Non-detergent oil will deposit dirt everywhere in the engine, including in the oil pump, the oil ways in the block and crankshaft, the valve chambers, all over the engine inside, in the oil pressure relief valve, in the timing gear etc.. There are photos here somewhere where someone has pushed plugs of dirt out of a Rolls Royce crank - very little oil would have been getting to the bearings. Use a 5 or 10W-30 or 40. If the engine is very worn, perhaps a 15W-50. The first number should be as small as possible so you get oil around as soon as possible after startup - this is when most wear occurs so early oiling is very important. If you want maximum zinc, use a diesel oil. I am using Penrite HPR-5, which is CI-4 5W-40 in my 1930 Dodge Brothers 8. There are many threads about oil in these fora. Do remove and clean out the sump before putting in new oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 (edited) 10 hours ago, Michael_Blackburn said: I am planning to redo the seats it sounds like fun, I Checked my oil its still full but black as hell and I have to figure out which of the oil filters they have out now will fit this one has no numbers on it that I could see also how do you check the fluid in the semi auto trans ? I've never seen a oil filter upside down, I also pulled my passenger head light off it has no markings on the back I am going to have the wiring to them replaced there isn't much wiring left going to the lights The mice had a heyday at least on the passenger side, What gauge wire should I get so I can go back to good non chewed wire I know it has to be A Fairly heavy gauge The connectors are intact and very old looking. and should I replace the oil if possible before starting ? Your car probably has a full flow filter but may be bypass. Look at the pipes that come out of the filter to the engine. If they are the size of a pencil it's a bypass. If they are the size of your finger it's full flow. Both are equally good at protecting your engine, don't let anyone tell you different. Does the filter have a removable lid with a big bolt on top? If so you can take out the filter cartridge, wipe off the goo and read the part number off the top. Filter cartridges are available at any good auto parts store, they are still used in tractors, heavy equipment and some import cars. If you go to take out the filter have a small pail or can with a plastic bag inside to put it in. You can tie up the top of the bag and dispose of the filter as you would any oil filter. Wipe out the cannister with rags or cotton waste. If you have a suction gun to suck out the old oil so much the better. Wear rubber gloves, this makes a mess. But you only have to do it every 5000 miles. You can drain the oil in the usual way (drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan) and fill with a name brand 10W30 oil. Given the age of the car and the time it has been sitting an oil change before starting would be advisable. Make sure the engine is not frozen up, there is no point wasting good oil. Re the Fluid Drive and M6 semi auto trans. I have personally answered these questions at least 100 times. Others have answered hundreds more. If you make me type out all that again I will lose my will to live. PLEASE go to the Chrysler section and do a search for Fluid Drive. It will take you weeks to read it all. I especially recommend a couple of long threads from 2008 that are the definitive schooling on Fluid Drive, how to maintain it, how to drive it etc. Fluid Drive requires a special driving technique, easy to do when you know how but hard to figure out on your own. Do it the easy way, read the ready answers, if there is anything you don't understand come back and ask. Wire gauge, we already gave you a complete wiring diagram with a table of wire gauges at the top left corner. 6 volt wiring requires wire twice as big as 12 volt, that is one reason they changed to 12 volt. The bottle that says upper oiler is an upper cylinder oiler or inverse oiler. It should have a vacuum connection and a connection to feed oil into the intake or carburetor. It is supposed to be filled with your favorite brand of upper cylinder oil like Marvel Mystery Oil, Bardahl, Redex, Rislone etc. There may be a brand name on the label. Its purpose is to feed a small amount of special oil to the intake while running, the reason is to lubricate the valves, piston rings, pistons and cylinders. They were said to double engine life between overhauls. Given the low quality of today's gas it's not a bad idea. Not totally necessary but if I had one I would use it. You don't need to worry about that now. But if it was kept filled and used, it may have preserved the engine and prevent it freezing up. Edited July 4, 2017 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Photos are a big help especially if you have any questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrycoman Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Should point out that Fluid Drive is not the transmission. It is a fluid coupling between the engine and clutch. If you are looking for information on Fluid Drive in a service manual or parts book you will not find it under Transmission - you will find it under Clutch. The starter ring gear is attached to the fluid coupling housing as is the clutch plate. Fluid Drive was standard on the 1949 Dodge Coronet along with the basic 3 speed manual transmission. Chrysler's 4 speed semi-automatic was optional and Dodge sold it as Gyromatic. To determine if your car has the 3 speed manual or 4 speed semi-automatic - check the first gear position. If you have the gear lever in neutral, pulling the lever toward you and up will give you reverse. Pulling the gear lever toward you and then down will give you 1st - if you have the manual transmission. If you cannot move the lever down, you have Gyromatic. Pushing the lever away from you and up will get you 2nd gear in the manual transmission or low range in Gyromatic. Away from you and down will be 3rd in the manual transmission or high range in Gyromatic. Gyromatic has two gears in each range thus giving you 4 gears. You need to use the clutch to shift between gears but the Fluid Drive permits you to come to a stop while in gear and the car will not stall. Thus you can place the car in 3rd gear (if manual trans) and drive just like an automatic - gas and brake. Only nothing will shift or need shifting. As your car has "Fluid Drive" on the front fender and not "Gyromatic", it probably has the 3 speed manual transmission. Of course, lots of stuff happens over the years so the nameplate may have been replaced at one time or another. Bill 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD in KC Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 7 hours ago, john2dameron said: ...Did anyone else besides Ford Motor Company and Chrysler Corporation use positive ground in 1949? What about the independents like Studebaker and Hudson? Packard was positive ground until 1956. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrycoman Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Positive ground was used by Nash, Hudson, Studebaker, Packard, Kaiser-Frazer, Chrysler Corp & Ford Motor. They all changed to 12 volts and negative ground in 1956. Well, except for Kaiser who stopped building cars in 1955. Chrysler Imperial was 12 volt 1953 to 1955, but that was still positive ground. Chevrolet, Pontiac,Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac and Willys were all negative ground in 1949. BIll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Practically everybody used a 6v positive ground system before 1955 except for some (not all) General Motors makes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 (edited) Michael, Congrats on the find. As a note, we can help you if you better if you post pictures when you ask a question. Many of us will recognize what you are talking about. A picture is worth 1,000 words. Edited July 5, 2017 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Any update on this project Michael? I inherited my dads '49 Coronet which had been sitting for about 14 years. Currently in the process of rewiring it (still had factory wires in it). found this post while searching the internet for a wiring diagram. Dave M, El Paso TX. 1949 Dodge Coronet 1969 VW Bug (Partial Baja conversion) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted April 28, 2019 Author Share Posted April 28, 2019 hey I just installed my heater core can anyone tell me how the water lines are supposed to run as It was all disconnected when I bought it, A schematic would be helpful, Doses it run from the piece going to the inside of car to the top of the core from the left side of piece going inside car to the back of the engine or the front bypass hose connecter, Then back of engine at lower heater connection from inside car, Its all been blown out no more rust in core any help would be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted April 28, 2019 Author Share Posted April 28, 2019 also my manual doesn't show the hoses and how the core runs in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Blackburn Posted April 28, 2019 Author Share Posted April 28, 2019 On 11/7/2018 at 6:02 AM, Sapper said: Any update on this project Michael? I inherited my dads '49 Coronet which had been sitting for about 14 years. Currently in the process of rewiring it (still had factory wires in it). found this post while searching the internet for a wiring diagram. Dave M, El Paso TX. 1949 Dodge Coronet 1969 VW Bug (Partial Baja conversion) pic of diagram 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 (edited) The rule is the water goes from the engine outlet near the thermostat, to the lower heater and from the upper heater to the return. This is so the air will escape and not make an air lock in the heater. On your Dodge the hot water comes from the back of the engine, into the lower heater and from the upper heater to the water pump. If your car has the thermostat valve inside the car, it will go in the heater feed line. Edited April 28, 2019 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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