Buick35 Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 On a 69 v.w. when I go to attach the neg. cable on the battery I get a spark or arc between the connection,just for one time,if I remove it right away and go to connect it it doesn't do it. Is something draining the battery or is that normal? I don't have an electric clock. The turn signals aren't working but they're in the off posistion.For now I've got the battery disconnected. I hate electrical problems! Thanks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) Radio with memory? One that was added later in life? The small spark usually means charging of a capacitor. Once charged there is no spark, until later . Edited February 10 by Frank DuVal (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 Borg-style electric clock? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 I will go along with Frank. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted February 10 Share Posted February 10 (edited) With everything shut off, no phone chargers plugged in the lighter, and don't turn the key on or anything like that... 1) Connect a old incandescent-type automotive test light between the bare battery post and the disconnected cable, so that the current is flowing through the light to get to the disconnected cable. After a second or two, does it glow brightly? If so, there is a problem. If it doesn't keep glowing at all it is probably fine. Note: this test light needs to have a real light bulb inside, not an LED or something. 2) If it does keep glowing dimly, you can replace the test light with a digital multimeter set on milliamps, connected in series just like the light was so the current has to flow through it to get to the battery cable. For instance 500 milliamps (0.5 Amps) is too much. There were some Cadillacs that high but they go dead quick when sitting. 30-50 milliamps (0.03-0.05 Amps) would be more typical. An old VW would have been basically zero when new. Modern accessories like radios with memory will draw a little bit. And yeah, I see you don't have a clock. If you did I would ask you to disconnect it. A Borg type will mess with this test after it runs down, assuming the clock works properly. If it doesn't work properly, it is usually the whole problem. Edited February 10 by Bloo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joao46 Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 If you use a multimeter, and the amperage is high as stated above, try disconnecting your fuses one at a time to see which fuse causes the multimeter to go to 0. then check out what component that circuit feeds. One thing that could be is the alternator. If you disconnect the alternator and the multimeter goes to 0 you need a new alternator. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolly_John Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 (edited) Are we just assuming this initial spark represents a problem that needs to be found? I thinking the original poster is overthinking this situation, especially since a subsequent connection of the battery a few moments later doesn't generate a spark. As others have stated, it could be a clock winding, or a capacitor charging. I'd hook the battery up and not worry about this, UNLESS the battery subsequently becomes discharged. John Edited February 11 by Jolly_John (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 (edited) Awaiting radio answer. Something with memory? ❓ ❄️ Edited February 11 by Frank DuVal (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 1 hour ago, Jolly_John said: Are we just assuming this initial spark represents a problem that needs to be found? I thinking the original poster is overthinking this situation, especially since a subsequent connection of the battery a few moments later doesn't generate a spark. As others have stated, it could be a clock winding, or a capacitor charging. I'd hook the battery up and not worry about this, UNLESS the battery subsequently becomes discharged. John The battery I had in it was a $40 salvage yard one so maybe it went bad.I would charge it up and by morning it wouldn't turn the starter over. It has an ammeter in the dash that shows it's charging. I'll take the old battery to the parts store to have it checked out.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 6 hours ago, Bloo said: With everything shut off, no phone chargers plugged in the lighter, and don't turn the key on or anything like that... 1) Connect a old incandescent-type automotive test light between the bare battery post and the disconnected cable, so that the current is flowing through the light to get to the disconnected cable. After a second or two, does it glow brightly? If so, there is a problem. If it doesn't keep glowing at all it is probably fine. Note: this test light needs to have a real light bulb inside, not an LED or something. 2) If it does keep glowing dimly, you can replace the test light with a digital multimeter set on milliamps, connected in series just like the light was so the current has to flow through it to get to the battery cable. For instance 500 milliamps (0.5 Amps) is too much. There were some Cadillacs that high but they go dead quick when sitting. 30-50 milliamps (0.03-0.05 Amps) would be more typical. An old VW would have been basically zero when new. Modern accessories like radios with memory will draw a little bit. And yeah, I see you don't have a clock. If you did I would ask you to disconnect it. A Borg type will mess with this test after it runs down, assuming the clock works properly. If it doesn't work properly, it is usually the whole problem. Thanks,I'll try that tomorrow. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 Any spark when connecting a battery cable is a concern. That’s why we always disconnect the negative cable. While uncommon a battery explosion is a real danger. Perhaps subsequent connections are not showing a visible spark, but a lesser transfer of current is still a possibility. Certainly it needs to be corrected. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Connect up a test light or ammeter as described above. Then, remove the fuses one at a time and see which one stops the draw. That is the circuit that has the short or whatever it is. Shut off the dome light first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 27 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said: Shut off the dome light first. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 34 minutes ago, EmTee said: Uh yeah, isn't the door open while you're connecting the battery on that VW? Pull the bulb in the dome light. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 There should be a switch on the door post or maybe in the headlight switch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodge28 Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Attach a test lite between the battery post and the cable. disconnect bulbs and other accessories one by one , even the alternator until the light goes off. There must be no sparks when attaching the battery cable except from the clock or dome lights. remove them too. It is a tedious process. There could also be a live wire grounding some where. It is not unusual for wires getting damaged , burned during collision repair of body. I have seen that. I am not saying it is but these are possibilities. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 On 2/11/2024 at 9:16 AM, Rusty Heaps said: Any spark when connecting a battery cable is a concern. That’s why we always disconnect the negative cable. While uncommon a battery explosion is a real danger. One disconnects the negative terminal on a negative ground car so the tools used to loosen the terminal will not make the BIG spark when they touch both the terminal and chassis. On positive ground cars one disconnects the positive terminal first, for the same reason.😉🛠️ On 2/11/2024 at 7:02 PM, Rusty_OToole said: Shut off the dome light first. While I agree with this, remove all known loads, the spark when first touching the terminal to the battery but no spark touching it again does not fit a dome light sparking characteristic. It fits a clock winding or capacitor charging spark characteristic. Is this a Beetle? Then yes, the dome light is above the battery.... Not sure there is a switch to turn it off. Pretty basic car.❗ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwbugay Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 isn't that battery under the rear seat ? Then you have the door open with the interior light on ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick35 Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 26 minutes ago, bwbugay said: isn't that battery under the rear seat ? Then you have the door open with the interior light on ??? It's a Ghia so the battery is under the deck lid. The dome light isn't working but it might be shorting out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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