What is the proper maintenance of emergency brake cables?

[37PackardMan]

I don't recall ever seeing anything in print about the maintenance of emergency brake cables.

Are they supposed to be lubricated?

Oil?

Grease?

Graphite?

No lubrication?

 

Since they are so close to the road and blowing dust, I would expect not to use oil or grease, so what are your thoughts?

 

[Pfeil]

WD40 the cables where exposed, don't let them rust. Lubricate the fulcrum points and guides with white lithium grease. Depending on what type of ratcheting "E" brake lube that too-Lithium white grease. The above goes for clutch cables.

[Bloo]

The 1936 Pontiac Shop Manual has you pulling those loose and lubricating them with graphite grease at some specified service interval. I don't recall offhand how often. The graphite grease referred to in that book is the old type used on leaf springs, with a very high graphite content. It is not what you usually see today with a small percentage of graphite as an additive.

 

In more modern vehicles, I don't think anything was used. Maybe a tiny bit of oil to keep the rust at bay. You sure wouldn't want it getting in the brakes. Maybe anti-sieze.

 

[yachtflame]

57 minutes ago, Pfeil said:

WD40 the cables were exposed, don't let them rust. I

Unfortunately, WD 40 evaporates leaving no lubrication. You’ll be better off brushing on a thin layer of oil. 

[rocketraider]

Here's what Oldsmobile said about it in 1978 CSM. It doesn't specify if this is the cables at the rear brake assemblies or the intermediate cable that goes from the parking brake pedal cable to the rear of the car.

 

[dodge28]

I think this is one for common sense. Keep all exposed surface moist and the fulcrums greased. There are some aftermarket cables with a grease fitting midway cable housing. Most importantly is to use the device at all times. 

[Pfeil]

2 hours ago, yachtflame said:

Unfortunately, WD 40 evaporates leaving no lubrication. You’ll be better off brushing on a thin layer of oil. 

I think you forgot the rest of the specifications and purposes.

Is WD-40 long lasting?

This long-lasting formula won't melt, freeze, or run in harsh weather conditions. Also great for lubricating equipment before placing in storage. Sprays on easily with a thick, protective coating for outdoor and automotive hinges, gears, sprockets, latches, door tracks, pulleys, cables and guide rails.

 

And what Bloo says;

What is graphite grease used for?

 

 

 

 

It's suitable for use in slow speed plain bearings and slides where a heavy grease with solid lubricants is required. Penrite Graphite Grease can be used in plain bearing locks, latches and fasteners, cables and springs and even as a fifth wheel lubricant.

 

 

Edited March 6, 2023 by Pfeil (see edit history)

[Pfeil]

3 hours ago, Bloo said:

The 1936 Pontiac Shop Manual has you pulling those loose and lubricating them with graphite grease at some specified service interval. I don't recall offhand how often. The graphite grease referred to in that book is the old type used on leaf springs, with a very high graphite content. It is not what you usually see today with a small percentage of graphite as an additive.

 

In more modern vehicles, I don't think anything was used. Maybe a tiny bit of oil to keep the rust at bay. You sure wouldn't want it getting in the brakes. Maybe anti-sieze.

 

Question; I remember reading somewhere that some manufacturers would coat the leaf springs in this stuff and then apply a protective wrapping (don't remember what that wrapping was made out of) and leave it on the springs. I think my dad's 50 Pontiac had that wrap on the springs, and it was there when he sold it ten years later. 

 

Thanks Bloo!

Edited March 6, 2023 by Pfeil (see edit history)

[Bloo]

18 minutes ago, Pfeil said:

Question; I remember reading somewhere that some manufacturers would coat the leaf springs in this stuff and then apply a protective wrapping (don't remember what that wrapping was made out of) and leave it on the springs. I think my dad's 50 Pontiac had that wrap on the springs, and it was there when he sold it ten years later. 

My 36 Pontiac still has covering like that. I believe it is a canvas sleeve with a zinc shell around it. I use that same Penrite grease you linked in an earlier post. It is the only graphite grease of the type used back then that is still made as far as I know. I get it from Restoration Supply (California). The factory tool to put grease inside the covering periodically is a "Lubroclamp". I got one on ebay.

 

Edited March 6, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Pfeil]

50 years ago, when I was a VW mechanic, we had to use WD40 because there were places that you couldn't get to. Choke and throttle cable tubes and the worst one for wear the sleeve for the clutch cable which is called the "bowden" tube. When installed it is bent in a "S" shape and to lube it like the factory did you would need to remove the whole cable. So every service oil change in an old VW, (1500miles) the bowden tube gets a hearty long squirt of WD40 along with the tubes for the throttle, choke, and heater cables. Brake cables are sheathed all the way to the backing plates.

[yachtflame]

I think you forgot the rest of the specifications and purposes.

 

Several engines ago I had a spare 1930 LaSalle engine. I sprayed WD 40 into the cylinders and rotated the engine to make sure the wall were coated. It rotated nicely. I had forgotten to put the plugs back in and when I pulled the engine out a few years later, the pistons were stuck and the cylinders were quite rusty. The engine was stuck. The WD 49 had evaporated leaving the steel unprotected. And that was with no water or road dirt being thrown at it. I certainly wouldn’t recommend trying to use this product in the elements as a permanent form of lubrication.

[dodge28]

I think this is one for common sense. Keep all exposed surface moist and the fulcrums greased. There are some aftermarket cables with a grease fitting midway cable housing. Most importantly is to use the device at all times. The product CRC has a mixture of red oil, looks like automatic transmission oil that never dry out. Molly in spray  form does a wonderful job. This  is out of the subject. Cables do stretch over time. It was possible to buy  device that looks like a tiny "u" clamp and install on the cable  to take up the slack.  

[Brass is Best]

Remember to use them once in a while. Moving them helps keep them in working order.

[JACK M]

15 hours ago, Pfeil said:

This long-lasting formula won't melt, freeze, or run in harsh weather conditions. Also great for lubricating equipment before placing in storage. Sprays on easily with a thick, protective coating for outdoor and automotive hinges, gears, sprockets, latches, door tracks, pulleys, cables and guide rails.

There is a WD40 that is made for storage of parts. I would guess it to be like what I have heard called cosmoline or something like that. Kind of waxy.

I have read on these forums in the past that some were disappointed as their WD40 was gummy. Pretty sure they had the wrong WD40 product.

[zepher]

3 hours ago, JACK M said:

There is a WD40 that is made for storage of parts. I would guess it to be like what I have heard called cosmoline or something like that. Kind of waxy.

I have read on these forums in the past that some were disappointed as their WD40 was gummy. Pretty sure they had the wrong WD40 product.

Maybe they had some of this stuff?
https://www.amazon.ca/WD-40-300038-Specialist-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00631GWS4

 

[5219]

The 1978 MGB that I bought new had grease fittings on the cable conduits. Only time I have ever seen that. On my other cars, I use white lithium grease on the exposed parts of the cable and shoot aerosol lubricant inside the conduits. Seems to work.

[JACK M]

18 hours ago, zepher said:

Maybe they had some of this stuff?
https://www.amazon.ca/WD-40-300038-Specialist-Corrosion-Inhibitor/dp/B00631GWS4

 

Yup, The can looks similar so I can see how some could be confused.

[Lahti35]

Disconnected, I blast mine down the cable jacket with carb cleaner and and move the cable in and out to loosen crud. I follow up with PB blaster with the opening elevated so it runs down the cable length, then lower the cable opening to allow excess to run out over night. Parking brake lever snaps back with authority when released! 

Edited March 7, 2023 by Lahti35 (see edit history)