Looking to make my own 1933 Buick 67 Wiring

[1933gray]

Looking to do my own wiring for my 1933 buick 67 instead of buying a harness. I know members like Bob Engle has the measurements for a 32 but I am unsure if the measurements are the same for a 33. I am 21 years old and new to the hobby, but I am stickler for trying to stay as original as I can, so I learn as I go! Was wondering if anyone knew where to source the wires I need, as I would like to rewire the whole car (The original wiring harnesses are still in the car), as well as where I would find the info for gauge and length of each wire.

Appreciate any help I can get, Thanks!

[neil morse]

Since you're a stickler for trying to stay original (which is a very good thing), I'm wondering why you don't consider buying full harness from a reputable company.  (I have personally had a very positive experience with Rhode Island Wiring Services -- www.riwire.com.)  I'm thinking maybe you are trying to save some money and do the work yourself.  But by the time you buy all the wire you need and the correct terminals, plus the headache of getting the correct length and gauge of each wire, you may have spent almost as much as you would have to spend to get the whole thing done by a professional in the first place.  Just a thought.

 

But I can tell you that RI Wire has a wide variety of correct wires and terminals for sale, and I'm sure they can supply you with what you need if you want to put together a harness yourself.

[37_Roadmaster_C]

Neil has said it all.  Both Rhode Island Wire and YNZ Yesterdays Parts have the individual wire and wiring harnesses available. I got a new harness for my 37 Roadmaster from YNZ and had some mods included (larger gauge for modern headlights, extra wires for electric fuel pump and driving lights and mods for turn signals and the switch). I was very happy for the price. Another thing to think about is the outer harness covering. It is very hard to do that on your own. When these companies make harnesses they weave the outer cover to properly fit and allow the wires to exit the harness where they should.  My vote is to buy the harness from a reputable company. Just my thoughts...

[Bloo]

Brillman is another place to look for bulk cloth wire.

 

 

[rodneybeauchamp]

I did my own on a ‘40 Pontiac many years ago as I was on a budget and enjoyed the challenge. I started by removing and labelling each wire until the seperate harnesses were disconnected. Drew a sketch of where they went (before digital cameras and IPhones and IPads). Pontic remained six volt so used heavy wires to reduce voltage drop.

 

At that time I used heavy gauge standard automotive wire and taped it over with insulation tape. If you want to keep it original you can buy correct wiring from the vintage wiring suppliers using the colours supplied in the wiring diagram. Otherwise you can chose your own colours as long as you record where they go. I added HD Bakelite inline fuse holders with screw on caps in the circuits and labelled them as there were none apart from the light switch thermal overload.

 

I made sure there was extra length in the wires when making up and taping the loom and cut them to correct length after it was installed. Also added extra wires for turn signals. I soldered the connections as well and it came out really good. None of the smoke ever escaped too 😀😀😀😀😀

Just my two bobs worth.

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited October 24, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Extra information (see edit history)

[Robert Engle]

You can make your own harnesses for about half the cost of custom ones from the reputable suppliers.  Yes it takes some time, but for me the process of working on and keeping these old cars in running condition is a source of satisfaction.  I buy my wiring components from John Brillman.  He takes modern wire and weaves the different original patterns over the wire.  He sells the correct loom for the outer covers.  My parts manuals only go to 1932 so I don't have info  for 1933.  My guess is that they are the same.  There are 3 harnesses in 1932.  one from the light switch on the bottom of the steering column to the front headlights, fender lamps and horns.  Second one from  light switch at the bottom of the steering column to the tail lights and gas gage.  third harness is the bigger challenge.  It is in behind the firewall panel.  I carries wires to the generator and coil.  I would suggest that you can run these two wires without loom and tuck them under the top edge of the panel.  run loom on the outside of the firewall in loom.  Wiring connections on the back of the dash are a nuisance to get to.  Most people remove the retaining screws for the dash and pay it open for making the connections.

Feel free to contact me by Private message or email bengle1917@gmail.com.  I can provide the 1932 wiring info, charts and wire sizes and patterns.

 

Bob Engle

[ILIKECARS53]

I have used Rhode Island Wire for all my needs in the past.  Have bought the wire and all ends, and made my own harnesses for a few cars.  I find R I Wire to have the biggest selection of wire colors and gauge.  For your year Buick the harnesses are not covered with a weaving process, which adds to the cost.  For 1933 Buick you can purchase the casing and slip the wires through.  You just have to make sure you purchase the correct diameter loom.    As a matter of fact I am waiting for an order from R I Wire to rewire my 1952 Chevy.

[32buick67]

Welcome and congrats on the 33-67!

Please post some pics when you get a chance, any condition.

 

I rewired my 32-67 last winter using bulk spools and asphalt loom from Brillman as mentioned by @Bloo and @Robert Engle, resoldering original connectors, resoldering switches, refurbishing old electrical elements and components...this is something I do as a trade everyday, so it was comfortable and easy for me, but it isn't for everyone.  DIY saved about $500 on the harness and a lot more for sockets/switches/lighter/etc.

I am not a fan of excessive soldering and pre-fab harnesses wrapped in excessive electrical tape, but that is just my opinion, so I ran a lot of home runs in asphalt loom and avoided soldered splices and jumper shortcuts.

Asphalt loom is like conduit, and most cars can accommodate slight loom upsizing to make routing and pulling easy.

I wired for incandescent amps, but installed LED to help with daytime driving (high-vis for other drivers).

As @rodneybeauchamp mentioned, I also added wires for turn signals, but left them dead for now - I haven't decided yet if I will add turn signals.

Search this forum for many discussions about LEDs if interested.

Again, pulling wire and drawing supplemental schematics isn't for everyone, but if you go the DIY route, know that there are many resources for you.

Be sure to buy the 1933 shop manual if you haven't already done so. 

Do you have the door switch which turns the dome light on when the door is open?

 

The 1932s seem to be well documented for harness lengths and segments, but keep in mind the 33 cars are longer wheel bases than the 1931s and 1932s (1933-50=119", 60=127", 80=130", 90=138").

As mentioned by others, there are three key pre-fab wiring vendors mentioned on this site: http://www.prewarbuick.com/links.php

 

Note, be sure to use the largest gauge you can find for the battery cables for ground to the transmission and positive to the starter, and be obsessively diligent when cleaning the connections and terminals.

I used 4/0 high flex copper for both, and my car cranks very quickly and easily, and I don't need to use a battery tender or kill switch.

2/0 is probably a good minimum.

 

I also used electrical anti-corrosion grease in the connections throughout the car, including the gas tank sending unit wiper arm contact to protect against our extreme temp and humidity swings.

 

Be sure to consider fuses, kill switches and other protection measures, unless you are very confident about your wiring and the car's function and your ability to harvest spare parts to keep a nice car like a 33-67 rolling.

 

Best wishes!

 

 

 

 

[1933gray]

22 hours ago, neil morse said:

Since you're a stickler for trying to stay original (which is a very good thing), I'm wondering why you don't consider buying full harness from a reputable company.  (I have personally had a very positive experience with Rhode Island Wiring Services -- www.riwire.com.)  I'm thinking maybe you are trying to save some money and do the work yourself.  But by the time you buy all the wire you need and the correct terminals, plus the headache of getting the correct length and gauge of each wire, you may have spent almost as much as you would have to spend to get the whole thing done by a professional in the first place.  Just a thought.

 

But I can tell you that RI Wire has a wide variety of correct wires and terminals for sale, and I'm sure they can supply you with what you need if you want to put together a harness yourself.

You are right, I knew coming into this hobby that it would be an expensive one. But I would like to try and save a dollar where I can, and I do enjoy learning and teaching myself along the way. I was going off of a thread I read from a few years ago where Bob Engle mentioned he was able to purchase everything he needed for a fraction of what the premade wiring harnesses were going for. I've had a similar experience when redoing the carb. A carb kit online was anywhere between 200-300 whereas the gasket material was 20 bucks and after about 7 hours of detailed work to make my own gaskets and clean out everything, I was left with the completed carb, satisfaction, and 180 saved! Thank you for the RI source! Now I just need measurements, colour coding, and gauges...

 

[1933gray]

13 hours ago, Robert Engle said:

You can make your own harnesses for about half the cost of custom ones from the reputable suppliers.  Yes it takes some time, but for me the process of working on and keeping these old cars in running condition is a source of satisfaction.  I buy my wiring components from John Brillman.  He takes modern wire and weaves the different original patterns over the wire.  He sells the correct loom for the outer covers.  My parts manuals only go to 1932 so I don't have info  for 1933.  My guess is that they are the same.  There are 3 harnesses in 1932.  one from the light switch on the bottom of the steering column to the front headlights, fender lamps and horns.  Second one from  light switch at the bottom of the steering column to the tail lights and gas gage.  third harness is the bigger challenge.  It is in behind the firewall panel.  I carries wires to the generator and coil.  I would suggest that you can run these two wires without loom and tuck them under the top edge of the panel.  run loom on the outside of the firewall in loom.  Wiring connections on the back of the dash are a nuisance to get to.  Most people remove the retaining screws for the dash and pay it open for making the connections.

Feel free to contact me by Private message or email bengle1917@gmail.com.  I can provide the 1932 wiring info, charts and wire sizes and patterns.

 

Bob Engle

My exact thoughts, thank you for all the suggestions!   I will email you for the 32 wiring info shortly.

[1933gray]

2 hours ago, 32buick67 said:

Welcome and congrats on the 33-67!

Please post some pics when you get a chance, any condition.

 

I rewired my 32-67 last winter using bulk spools and asphalt loom from Brillman as mentioned by @Bloo and @Robert Engle, resoldering original connectors, resoldering switches, refurbishing old electrical elements and components...this is something I do as a trade everyday, so it was comfortable and easy for me, but it isn't for everyone.  DIY saved about $500 on the harness and a lot more for sockets/switches/lighter/etc.

I am not a fan of excessive soldering and pre-fab harnesses wrapped in excessive electrical tape, but that is just my opinion, so I ran a lot of home runs in asphalt loom and avoided soldered splices and jumper shortcuts.

Asphalt loom is like conduit, and most cars can accommodate slight loom upsizing to make routing and pulling easy.

I wired for incandescent amps, but installed LED to help with daytime driving (high-vis for other drivers).

As @rodneybeauchamp mentioned, I also added wires for turn signals, but left them dead for now - I haven't decided yet if I will add turn signals.

Search this forum for many discussions about LEDs if interested.

Again, pulling wire and drawing supplemental schematics isn't for everyone, but if you go the DIY route, know that there are many resources for you.

Be sure to buy the 1933 shop manual if you haven't already done so. 

Do you have the door switch which turns the dome light on when the door is open?

 

The 1932s seem to be well documented for harness lengths and segments, but keep in mind the 33 cars are longer wheel bases than the 1931s and 1932s (1933-50=119", 60=127", 80=130", 90=138").

As mentioned by others, there are three key pre-fab wiring vendors mentioned on this site: http://www.prewarbuick.com/links.php

 

Note, be sure to use the largest gauge you can find for the battery cables for ground to the transmission and positive to the starter, and be obsessively diligent when cleaning the connections and terminals.

I used 4/0 high flex copper for both, and my car cranks very quickly and easily, and I don't need to use a battery tender or kill switch.

2/0 is probably a good minimum.

 

I also used electrical anti-corrosion grease in the connections throughout the car, including the gas tank sending unit wiper arm contact to protect against our extreme temp and humidity swings.

 

Be sure to consider fuses, kill switches and other protection measures, unless you are very confident about your wiring and the car's function and your ability to harvest spare parts to keep a nice car like a 33-67 rolling.

 

Best wishes!

 

 

 

 

As this is my first project car I really have no clue what I am doing. However, I have a grandfather who has done plenty of project cars, as well as an electrician I will be recruiting to help me (he needs to get out of the house anyways haha). I will probably add wiring for turning signals but leave them dead as well, and I will probably stick to the original lighting instead of LEDs. I am unsure if the door switch is the switch found on the frame between the doors, if so, then yes I do. I have thought about fuses and kill switches, and I have been debated on the topic of safety vs. originality but I am still unsure... the purist in me wants to restore it and drive the car like it would have back in the day, other part of me thinks about my project going up in flames. I suppose time will reveal my answer. I appreciate all the help, thank you!

 

PS heres some pics!

[rodneybeauchamp]

4 hours ago, 1933gray said:

 I have thought about fuses and kill switches, and I have been debated on the topic of safety vs. originality but I am still unsure... the purist in me wants to restore it and drive the car like it would have back in the day, other part of me thinks about my project going up in flames. I suppose time will reveal my answer. I appreciate all the help, thank you!

 

PS heres some pics!

What prompted me to add fuses was when I saw the true power and destruction that SIX VOLTS could possibly do. The ‘40 Pontiac was my first experience with a six volt car and being naive thought it would be pretty feeble, being half of twelve volts. Besides on its maiden journey home at night, the lights were poor and dash lighting was dim …..
 

A few days later when shutting the glovebox door, the clock lighting wire got caught and jammed. With the crumbling insulation from the original wiring, it did not take long to start arcing and sparking with a tremendous noise until I could release the door and trapped wire. Scary stuff!

 

Scary enough to want me to start rewiring it almost immediately and more importantly ensure there were fuses added to the loom. I was not so concerned about originality as protecting the Pontiac from going up in smoke.

 

Besides all those fuses were hidden up underneath the dashboard! A lot nicer knowing they were there!

Just my thoughts

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

[EmTee]

Your car looks like a good solid starting point for a restoration.  Consider starting a restoration blog in the "Me and My Buick" forum: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/

 

It would be great to follow your progress and that would also document your work for you and others to use for future reference.  And above all else, we love pictures! 

[neil morse]

Yes, please keep us posted on your progress.  It looks like a great project, and it's so good to hear about someone from your generation showing appreciation for the cars from this era!

[1933gray]

On 10/25/2022 at 8:02 AM, EmTee said:

Your car looks like a good solid starting point for a restoration.  Consider starting a restoration blog in the "Me and My Buick" forum: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/58-me-and-my-buick/

 

It would be great to follow your progress and that would also document your work for you and others to use for future reference.  And above all else, we love pictures! 

 

On 10/25/2022 at 1:26 PM, neil morse said:

Yes, please keep us posted on your progress.  It looks like a great project, and it's so good to hear about someone from your generation showing appreciation for the cars from this era!

Here we go!

[1933gray]

On 10/24/2022 at 8:40 AM, Robert Engle said:

You can make your own harnesses for about half the cost of custom ones from the reputable suppliers.  Yes it takes some time, but for me the process of working on and keeping these old cars in running condition is a source of satisfaction.  I buy my wiring components from John Brillman.  He takes modern wire and weaves the different original patterns over the wire.  He sells the correct loom for the outer covers.  My parts manuals only go to 1932 so I don't have info  for 1933.  My guess is that they are the same.  There are 3 harnesses in 1932.  one from the light switch on the bottom of the steering column to the front headlights, fender lamps and horns.  Second one from  light switch at the bottom of the steering column to the tail lights and gas gage.  third harness is the bigger challenge.  It is in behind the firewall panel.  I carries wires to the generator and coil.  I would suggest that you can run these two wires without loom and tuck them under the top edge of the panel.  run loom on the outside of the firewall in loom.  Wiring connections on the back of the dash are a nuisance to get to.  Most people remove the retaining screws for the dash and pay it open for making the connections.

Feel free to contact me by Private message or email bengle1917@gmail.com.  I can provide the 1932 wiring info, charts and wire sizes and patterns.

 

Bob Engle

I got your emails, thank you so much Bob! Hopefully it will be similar enough for a 33.

[Hubert_25-25]

This is what I used to do the wiring in my 1925 Buick.  I had the old wires, but I wanted to make some upgrades.  You can see how I laid out the old wires as I made new armoring for each cable section as well.  The kit was $390 and separately I spent $142.  

 

I started with a spreadsheet to manage all the wire and fittings.  I did make a few wire color modifications, but basically stayed with the colors the wiring diagram used.  I did double check a few areas for what I thought would be better gauge wire size for the amperage draw.  LED's are a good upgrade as the amperage is much kinder to components - especially for headlights.   I also added turn signals.  

 

 Hugh

 

[Robert Winters]

I just completed my new wire harness for my 34 Buick 68C

Glad i did, I had my good friend Richard Delgado help ( Richard also replaced and made his harness himself for his 33 Buick 90L and has a nice schematic of his work )

 

I bought 10 "over stock" spools of 100' wire each a different color, sizes of 10, 12 and 14 Gauge for about $450 and another hundred for loom, connectors, shrink wrap from https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

 

YNZ wanted $1,100 for the harness and extra $300 for added turn signal/directional wire and relay for $1,400 total.

 

I wanted to keep my car "original/preservation" category and was told from many sources that keeping your car "safe" with a new wire harness doesn't really work against any "judging" or whats needed for a safe driving car.  I also added in a fuse box under the dash so i needed to modify the new harness anyways to be routed to the new fuse box.

 

What i can also tell you,  I know where every single wire goes and for what purpose, I removed some badly worn out insulation behind the firewall cover and replaced with non-original heat shield for my own safety, nobody can see that anyways. While you are laying under the frame it was a good time to clean and inspect the underside anyways.  I asked YNZ wire how much for the labor to install and they said they don't offer that anymore with the liability and cost of insurance.

 

I kept my 6 volt system in place. My harness was in essence 3 sections, I decided to run extra long wires and crimp/solder/heat wrap after loom is all routed thru the frame. It would be horrible to be a few inches shy with a new harness.  I also have a battery kill switch mounted in front of passenger side seat ( no need to lift seat any longer to disconnect battery )

 

Just my 2 cents, but just by buying a new harness, you still have to pull out your old wire harness and install a new one so the labor time is the same.

 

HTH

Robert