1933gray

Hello All, As my title states, I am trying to find the correct replacement seal for the windshield in my 1933 Buick 67. I already tried Bob's to which he said he does not carry any. I went to the rubber manufacturer Steele but it doesn't seem like they have premade windshield seals. I found this window weatherstrip that I think *could* be the correct seal I am looking for, but I figured I would ask to see if anyone knew for sure, or knew where I could find the correct seal. Thank you all! https://www.steelerubber.com/window-weatherstrip-70-1195-52

Hello, I have two horns on my 1933 Buick, one of which does not work. When power is delivered to the horn, it makes a simple "click" noise, but nothing more. After speaking to someone who has restored many Buicks, they suggested that it is typically the capacitor (or condenser) that goes out. I sanded the contacts and after surfing the web, I found that the replacement capacitor I should use should be between 0.47-0.68 uf at 250V. Does anyone know the actual rating I should use for this model horn? Or am I even barking up the right tree? Is there something else wrong with the horn? Thank you!

Hey, looking to see if anyone has original sockets (to fit 32/32 1000 bulbs) and reflectors for both headlights. 1933 Buick PM me if you guys have anything! Thanks.

Hey Pete, do you still have this headlight? If you do, PM me with what you are asking for it. Thanks!

Hey Robert, I have secured all three harnesses for my Buick so I am good on that front. We just installed the dash harness and hopefully we will get started on the other harnesses soon as soon as I figure out that fuse box. The 33 does not have a floor switch but rather a switch on the steering wheel to control the headlights and tail lights. The original point of this post was me mistaking the added fuse box for the original lighting switch. I sorted that out but now I am just wondering about the utility of the fuse box. I don't know if I really need it (especially if I will be converting to LEDs). I also question if the way its installed right now affects how the headlights and horn perform.

For sure, I would rather be safe then sorry. I dont think it'll ever be a show car but I do want to make an effort to stay as original as I can for my own satisfaction! I would be happy to convert to LEDs considering one of the filaments is already busted and the headlights are pretty dim as it is. It's just a no brainer and again, I do prioritize safety over all. I will email you about the LEDs. Thanks Jim and beautiful ride!

Okay. Upon closer look at the shop manual, I saw that the lighting switch is at the base of the steering column. I found it (fantastic) caked in grease gas and sludge. Now, do you all just think this is a fuse box added just for safety? Or perhaps for the sealed beams? Is it wise to remove that box entirely and wire as originally intended or should I use it? That fuse box is located on the frame behind the radiator but in front of the carb air filter. Thank you all!

Would this help rid the cloudiness after the surface is free of dirt?

Hello all! Just spent the weekend working on rewiring the Buick. Luckily my uncle is an electrician and made more sense of the wiring diagram (and all of the loose/detached wires beneath the dash) than I could. He was a huge help with splicing on the original special connectors and hooking everything up. We just finished the dash wiring harness and after mistakenly swapping connections for the gas tank feed and the headlight, we sorted it all out and got all gauges and the headlights to work as they had before. Now that only leaves two harnesses left (arguably we did the hardest one in my opinion but I guess we will see). I took a quick look at the headlights/horn wiring towards the radiator and I decided to take off the cover off the light switch. And here is where I begin to scratch my head.... At some point, someone changed the old light switch out for a newer one with fuses The original light switch as marked on the wiring diagram had 8 separate connections. This newer one only has six. You can see that a few wires have been doubled up on two terminals. I am unsure what to make of this. My headlights had an early sealed beam conversion done to them (1940s) and I am wondering if they would have had to change the light switch as well? This situation may explain why I don't have a passing beam or low beam option when I use the control knob on the steering wheel, I only have one headlight option: on (I assume high beam) Now I wonder if I somehow track down an original 8 terminal light switch, will the passing beam and low beam options be available again or do the sealed beams restrict me to the single on or off situation... This light switch also complicates the rewiring process some more as ill have to trace back each wire to see what the connections are for. Who knows if this is even wired correctly! Any wisdom on this would be greatly appreciated. sealed beams pictured Thank you!

Looking to see if anyone has any experience cleaning up the wood-grain metal dashes and other interior trim in their old vehicles. All the trim has a cloudy appearance to it. Not extremely dirty or grimy but just cloudy. Simple water did not do much and a magic erase did the most work but still with minimal results. I tried a small inconspicuous spot with rubbing alcohol but again to no avail (and I was worried about doing more harm than good). Water seems to ‘clean’ the cloudy mess, but once the water dries the haze returns immediately. This reminds me of a victrola I bought that had a hazy film below the finish but that was easily remedied with some good lemon oil. (Maybe there’s a similar oil for metal in this case? Or maybe a buff is all that needed?) I don’t want to repaint the wood grain, I wish the restore the original paint to the best of my abilities. If anybody has encountered this before or has any suggestion I’m all ears! I’ll provide some photos of a “before and after” when I just wipe over it with water. You will see the haze return in the second picture after the water has evaporated. Thanks all!

Unfortunately, the previous owner decided to remove the power clutch and seal the vacuum tubes up. I got it with the car thankfully so in a perfect world I will be reinstalling it. My toe board looks identical to yours pictured, but in far worse condition I have a buddy who is experienced working with wood. Avoiding having to refit each piece would be great but I suppose I'll have to cross that bridge if I get to it. Appreciate the wishes! Have a good one!

In a perfect world, I would try to avoid the wet sloppy conditions as best as possible, but I would like to prepare to be in them if fate calls for it

The originals were plywood as described. Multiple layers of thin wood glued together and overtime the glue seems to have separated ad the wood itself has become dry and brittle. I would like to remain as original as possible with the floors as I have the rest of the vehicle. But last thing I need is my foot going through the floor and I then become Fred Flintstone!

Hello all! The wood panel flooring has just about disintegrated in my 1933 Buick model 67. I of course would like to replace this flooring and can use the original pieces as templates for the new ones. Someone suggested I should use marine plywood for this application (makes sense), but I was curious to know what everyone else has used in this situation. The flooring is 3/4" and I really do not need much so I am not too worried about price. Thanks!

Hello, I think have a 33-36 chevy radiator cap. A little dirty but should clean up. No major imperfections. Looking for 100. Thanks