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Posted

Looking to see if anyone has any experience cleaning up the wood-grain metal dashes and other interior trim in their old vehicles. All the trim has a cloudy appearance to it. Not extremely dirty or grimy but just cloudy. Simple water did not do much and a magic erase did the most work but still with minimal results. I tried a small inconspicuous spot with rubbing alcohol but again to no avail (and I was worried about doing more harm than good).

 

Water seems to ‘clean’ the cloudy mess, but once the water dries the haze returns immediately. This reminds me of a victrola I bought that had a hazy film below the finish but that was easily remedied with some good lemon oil. (Maybe there’s a similar oil for metal in this case? Or maybe a buff is all that needed?)

 

I don’t want to repaint the wood grain, I wish the restore the original paint to the best of my abilities. If anybody has encountered this before or has any suggestion I’m all ears! 
 

I’ll provide some photos of a “before and after” when I just wipe over it with water. You will see the haze return in the second picture after the water has evaporated.

 

Thanks all!

 

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Posted (edited)

I think I would try something like Meguiars' polishing compound. I'd try it first on a spot where it is covered by an instrument or is otherwise hidden. Just be careful not to rub through the paint.

Phil

Edited by pmhowe (see edit history)
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Posted

I'd be afraid of anything too abrasive.  You'd be surprised how the clear will make what is left  of the grain stand out.

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Posted

I strongly advise against spraying any clear coat over your original wood grain paint. As a long time restorer of a variety of industrial arts items I consider clear coating an amateurs solution to almost everything in regards to restoring a finish on almost anything. Lots can go wrong and its not reverse able many reasons why its a bad idea in my experience. I also would not use any polishing or buffing products on such a delicate nuanced surface. Cleaning and a petroleum or acrylic based wax is safer. WD 40 a refined kerosene product and 100 percent safe on everything and lifts dirt out of paint without the drying and dulling nature of detergents. Knowing what the factory luster was is a good starting point to determine what to use. I worked for a high end furniture restorer as a youth and he had shelves of expensive imported waxs and oils but I would sometimes catch him using Futura acrylic floor wax on some pieces for the effect he was looking for. Always use products that can be gently removed from surface. My 41 Century has lost most of its dash grain but a wipe of Armour All or a spray of Pledge leaves a nice low luster sheen.  

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Lawrence Helfand said:

I strongly advise against spraying any clear coat over your original wood grain paint. As a long time restorer of a variety of industrial arts items I consider clear coating an amateurs solution to almost everything in regards to restoring a finish on almost anything. Lots can go wrong and its not reverse able many reasons why its a bad idea in my experience. I also would not use any polishing or buffing products on such a delicate nuanced surface. Cleaning and a petroleum or acrylic based wax is safer. WD 40 a refined kerosene product and 100 percent safe on everything and lifts dirt out of paint without the drying and dulling nature of detergents. Knowing what the factory luster was is a good starting point to determine what to use. I worked for a high end furniture restorer as a youth and he had shelves of expensive imported waxs and oils but I would sometimes catch him using Futura acrylic floor wax on some pieces for the effect he was looking for. Always use products that can be gently removed from surface. My 41 Century has lost most of its dash grain but a wipe of Armour All or a spray of Pledge leaves a nice low luster sheen.  

Would this help rid the cloudiness after the surface is free of dirt?

Posted

Cloudiness is improved with any product that infuses the aging and dry opaque paint making it reflect less light back,,the wetting effect. I use all kinds of marinades depending on what I am trying to achieve. When it comes to a wood finish real or painted there is a wide range of taste. I have a vintage Mercedes with lots of wood which originally was a medium dark low sheen satin type finish but many restorations make it lighter and glossier and its looks great for some but not me. Dont be afraid to experiment with benign products like Pledge which really works! Waxs that dont dry white or leave residue like Butchers and polymers like Armour All will infuse the paint surface reducing cloudiness.

  • Like 2
Posted

Have you tried GoJo? It’s a lanolin-based hand cleaner. I clean old radio cabinets with it. This stuff really takes out the dirt. It may allow more of the finish to shine through. Just make sure you use the original formula, not the one with pumice. You can apply and remove with paper towels. Once the towel  comes away clean you are done. A quick swipe with a moist paper towel can remove any cleaner residue.

As always, test a small area first. 

You may want to follow with wax or lemon oil as mentioned above.

 

This is the same stuff guys use to get grease off their hands.

https://www.amazon.com/ORIGINAL-FORMULA-Fragrance-Crème-Style-Canister/dp/B00065TSSO

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