Trying to fix three doors that won't open on a 1998 Buick Park Avenue

[wnlewis]

My wife and I were given a Buick Park Avenue. It is drivable but has some problems that need to be corrected.

 

The first one that I want to fix are three doors that will not open.

 

The driver's side front door opens from the inside, but not the outside - the door handle is gone.

 

The passenger's side front door won't open at all inside or out and the key does not turn in the lock. The electric lock system does work somewhat, but not on that door.

 

The passenger's side rear door works fine.

 

The driver's side rear door does not work at all and was shut with the child proof mechanism engaged the last time. The door handle will not move at all. No effort with the electric unlock works on this door either.

 

What I think that I need to do is to take off the inside panels (carefully, if possible) and repair the problems. I do have the Buick (factory) shop manuals for the car.

 

I would like to find out what tools I am likely going to need to get the inside panels off and where I should buy the tools.

 

Thank you for any help that you have to offer.

 

Neal Lewis

[NTX5467]

You might need the GM Body Service manual for that model year.  It covers all GM cars, not just Buicks.  You might also head down to your local GM dealer's parts department and see if they can print you the exploded view of the doors' innards and such.  This might help with determining if any parts/linkage are missing.  You might look around on some of the GM Parts re-seller websites for the same illustration, but many of those websites might not go back far enough to have your model year listed.

 

The dealer might not still be able to get all of the parts in the illustration, but just knowing what's supposed to be there can be a huge help.

 

That missing outside handle can possibly be sourced from several non-GM Parts vendors as an "aftermarket" part rather than a GM Parts part, as www.RockAuto.com.  It very possibly has a lever on the backside which indexes with a bent rod, which then goes to the latch mechanism.  If you can locate this rod, if its still there, you should be able to pull up on it and get the latch to open the door.  If so, then secure something to it so you can repeat that activity until the new handle might arrive.

 

The Child Proof locks only disable the inside door open handle, not the outside.

 

Good luck with your project,

NTX5467

 

 

Edited August 16, 2022 by NTX5467 (see edit history)

[JohnD1956]

Before going too far with the doors, have you checked the engine compartment sub frame for dangerous rust through at the suspension mount areas?  Since doors dont work it sounds like this vehicle may not have been kept in optimal condition and the subframe rust out is a common issue in the series.  That rust out may be a repair that is more than the car is worth.  And at that point there is no point to opening any of the doors. 

Sorry to be a downer but it is best not to go too far without checking into this issue.

 

[dship]

I agree with John re: check the Buick's sub-frame.  I ran into this rust-out problem with last gen Rivieras ('95-'99) which had the same sub-frame, and they are just about extinct.

[wnlewis]

23 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

You might need the GM Body Service manual for that model year.  It covers all GM cars, not just Buicks.  You might also head down to your local GM dealer's parts department and see if they can print you the exploded view of the doors' innards and such.  This might help with determining if any parts/linkage are missing.  You might look around on some of the GM Parts re-seller websites for the same illustration, but many of those websites might not go back far enough to have your model year listed.

 

The dealer might not still be able to get all of the parts in the illustration, but just knowing what's supposed to be there can be a huge help.

 

That missing outside handle can possibly be sourced from several non-GM Parts vendors as an "aftermarket" part rather than a GM Parts part, as www.RockAuto.com.  It very possibly has a lever on the backside which indexes with a bent rod, which then goes to the latch mechanism.  If you can locate this rod, if its still there, you should be able to pull up on it and get the latch to open the door.  If so, then secure something to it so you can repeat that activity until the new handle might arrive.

 

The Child Proof locks only disable the inside door open handle, not the outside.

 

Good luck with your project,

NTX5467

 

 

I have just purchased a GM Body Service manual for Fisher Bodies 1998. So thank you for that tip.

 

Both the driver's side front handle and the passenger's side front handles need to be replaced, hopefully with ones that have the right color.

 

Your information about the child proof locks is helpful.

 

I am concerned that there may be electronic problems as well. The Service Repair volume that covers the body has as step one, doing a diagnostic with the processors that control the body parts. It appears that everything is computer controlled. Hopefully the problems are only mechanical.

[wnlewis]

14 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Before going too far with the doors, have you checked the engine compartment sub frame for dangerous rust through at the suspension mount areas?  Since doors dont work it sounds like this vehicle may not have been kept in optimal condition and the subframe rust out is a common issue in the series.  That rust out may be a repair that is more than the car is worth.  And at that point there is no point to opening any of the doors. 

Sorry to be a downer but it is best not to go too far without checking into this issue.

 

After getting rid of a wasp nest between the passenger side doors, I checked the underside. It appears to be in good condition.

[wnlewis]

13 hours ago, dship said:

I agree with John re: check the Buick's sub-frame.  I ran into this rust-out problem with last gen Rivieras ('95-'99) which had the same sub-frame, and they are just about extinct.

Checked and at this point, OK. Thanks for the second on the advice.

[wnlewis]

Now, what tools are needed to carefully remove inside door panels, especially on doors that cannot be opened?

[Frank DuVal]

Phillips screw driver, 7 mm socket (or 9/32" if you have SAE tools), and a set of those plastic pry tools from Harbor Freight. Note, read the shop manual, as it has tricks like the front door panels slide up, not pry off!!!!

 

GM still sells the outside driver's door handle (I just bought one), but like the aftermarket handles, in black only. There may be some Duplicolor spray bottles that are close in color. 

 

I use Flow Chevrolet's website for what is still available and the diagrams. The diagrams from GM seem to have gone downhill from the old days, but stare at them long enough and the parts might make sense. They are also somewhat close, so shipping is not too  bad for me. Your location may be very different.

 

gmpartsdirect.com

 

There are many GM parts suppliers with the same pictures and ability to sell parts at less than list price.

 

On getting the rear door panels off that do not open, taking the seats bottom and possibly the back also out of the car will help.

[NTX5467]

One of the ways that internet dealers appear to sell parts for less is that they augment the "retail" selling price so that any decrease from there is significant, it will appear.  NO GM (or other) franchised dealer is bound by the MSRP of the parts they sell.  Additionally, they can also increase the "shipping price" a bit as they will be shipping via a "consolidator", so they are paying about 25% less than retail for that function.  IF they offer "free shipping", that cost will be absorbed elsewhere in the selling price, usually.

 

Most will also use the exact same parts illustrations, which are straight out of the GM parts database.  Use the "enlarge" function on your computer to make the illustrations larger for better viewing.  Then use your call phone camera to take a screen shot of the enlarged image, to keep and refer to.

 

ALSO . . . read their "Return Policies" as they, too, can vary!!  Plus any "Restocking Charges", which usually can coincide with the GM Return Policies, which basically means that the dealer is charged to return the part to GM, even a freight charge!!  In some cases, GM might charge up to 50% of the price of the part to take it back!

 

Just some realities of online parts purchases from franchised car dealers,

NTX5467

[wnlewis]

19 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Phillips screw driver, 7 mm socket (or 9/32" if you have SAE tools), and a set of those plastic pry tools from Harbor Freight. Note, read the shop manual, as it has tricks like the front door panels slide up, not pry off!!!!

 

GM still sells the outside driver's door handle (I just bought one), but like the aftermarket handles, in black only. There may be some Duplicolor spray bottles that are close in color. 

 

I use Flow Chevrolet's website for what is still available and the diagrams. The diagrams from GM seem to have gone downhill from the old days, but stare at them long enough and the parts might make sense. They are also somewhat close, so shipping is not too  bad for me. Your location may be very different.

 

gmpartsdirect.com

 

There are many GM parts suppliers with the same pictures and ability to sell parts at less than list price.

 

On getting the rear door panels off that do not open, taking the seats bottom and possibly the back also out of the car will help.

The doors that will not open at all are the passenger's side front door and the driver's side rear door. The way the car is put together, the outside edges of the inside panels are covered by the inside part of the body. That looks like it may prevent access to the outside edges of the inside panels. I need to look more carefully now that the wasps are gone.

 

I'll see what exterior colors are available for that car from the aftermarket vendors. It's a silver color.

[JohnD1956]

can you post a picture of the edge with the lock mechanism on both doors that do open? 

 

[EmTee]

Given that the exterior door handles either are broken or tend to break, I'd consider drilling out the handles on the stuck doors if you're unable to remove the inner door panels.  The plan would be to fashion a rod from stiff wire (e.g., wire coat hanger) to insert through the handle opening and actuate the latch mechanism.  Then replace all of the broken handles.

[wnlewis]

21 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

can you post a picture of the edge with the lock mechanism on both doors that do open? 

Here are pictures.

 

The right rear opens from both the outside and the inside.

 

The left front door opens from the inside, and maybe the outside, but that method (from the outside) is failing. No outside handle remains. It is getting very hard from the outside, like something is binding.

 

The right front door would not open and the outside handle was broken. The former owner had a fellow replace the outside handle and try to reconnect it. The problem was not resolved. A key will turn the lock (at least some) but not unlock it. The outside handle assembly does not fit in the door properly and does not work.

 

The left rear outside handle moves but does not seem to be connected to anything.

 

 

[wnlewis]

12 hours ago, EmTee said:

Given that the exterior door handles either are broken or tend to break, I'd consider drilling out the handles on the stuck doors if you're unable to remove the inner door panels.  The plan would be to fashion a rod from stiff wire (e.g., wire coat hanger) to insert through the handle opening and actuate the latch mechanism.  Then replace all of the broken handles.

The previous owner could not get the right front door to open from the outside or from the inside. He had a fellow replace the outside handle and try to reconnect things. The replacement handle does not open the door and the inside handle still does not open the door.

 

The left rear door used to work, said the previous owner, until someone set the child proof lock one time too many. It had been causing problems. On the last time, it refused to release and the door is completely locked from both the outside and the inside.

[JohnD1956]

I was looking for pictures of the door jamb edge with the latch mechanism.  Here's what I am thinking.  I wonder if the hinges and the latch mechanism are rusted?  I would try to spray some WD40 using the plastic straw supplied with the product into the door jamb from the interior in the area where the latch is.  It would be a liberal spray.  For the one jammed rear door you can reach the hinges with a stronger rust penetrant, like PB Blaster, from the open front door.  if you look towards the back door from the open front door you should be able to see the hinges for the rear door You do not need as much PB Blaster and be advised it is a stronger smell than the WD 40 and that you do not want to get on your interior upholstery.  

 

For the stuck front door, you may be able to see the door latch through the rear door hinge area/ That might give you a clear shot to get some WD 40 into that latch.  The front door hinges however will be tough and next to impossible to get to. 

 

You can also try to spray the door latch area by sticking that plastic straw down past the window sweepers.  

 

I would give the penetrants a minute to work and then is you can get a helper to hold the outside door handles you may be able to lay on the seat and push the doors open with your feet.  

[60FlatTop]

My son had a 2000 Park Ave with three inoperable door handles. He thought if one still worked he was OK. I thought if three were bad I wouldn't put much faith in the fourth one.

 

How much credit do you think I got for my insight?

[wnlewis]

1 hour ago, 60FlatTop said:

My son had a 2000 Park Ave with three inoperable door handles. He thought if one still worked he was OK. I thought if three were bad I wouldn't put much faith in the fourth one.

 

How much credit do you think I got for my insight?

I have an old 1995 Buick LeSabre, that in my opinion is two or three times the quality and dependability of the 1998 Park Avenue. The only thing is that I need a dependable car so that I can do some long needed work on the LeSabre. The 1998 Park Avenue in two words is, Flimzy Glitz. It is worth restoring, just for the challenge of doing it.

[wnlewis]

13 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

I was looking for pictures of the door jamb edge with the latch mechanism.  Here's what I am thinking.  I wonder if the hinges and the latch mechanism are rusted?  I would try to spray some WD40 using the plastic straw supplied with the product into the door jamb from the interior in the area where the latch is.  It would be a liberal spray.  For the one jammed rear door you can reach the hinges with a stronger rust penetrant, like PB Blaster, from the open front door.  if you look towards the back door from the open front door you should be able to see the hinges for the rear door You do not need as much PB Blaster and be advised it is a stronger smell than the WD 40 and that you do not want to get on your interior upholstery.  

 

For the stuck front door, you may be able to see the door latch through the rear door hinge area/ That might give you a clear shot to get some WD 40 into that latch.  The front door hinges however will be tough and next to impossible to get to. 

 

You can also try to spray the door latch area by sticking that plastic straw down past the window sweepers.  

 

I would give the penetrants a minute to work and then is you can get a helper to hold the outside door handles you may be able to lay on the seat and push the doors open with your feet.  

Thanks John! I like your ideas. I plan to do them today!

[60FlatTop]

1 hour ago, wnlewis said:

It is worth restoring, just for the challenge of doing it.

You may have missed my point. I like the Park Ave as well. When my son had three broken door handles and was sliding across the seats through the only operating one left I cautioned him, based on my keen insight, that the last handle working may be of the same quality of the other three. It was and the predicted failure of the fourth handle became my problem. At least it failed when he was entering.

 

My grandfather would have looked at the situation and said "Don't flirt with a rattlesnake."

 

The '95 LeSabre has a better designed handle. It is the "old people grip" style and uses a plunger as do the earlier Park Aves.

[wnlewis]

6 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

You may have missed my point. I like the Park Ave as well. When my son had three broken door handles and was sliding across the seats through the only operating one left I cautioned him, based on my keen insight, that the last handle working may be of the same quality of the other three. It was and the predicted failure of the fourth handle became my problem. At least it failed when he was entering.

 

My grandfather would have looked at the situation and said "Don't flirt with a rattlesnake."

 

The '95 LeSabre has a better designed handle. It is the "old people grip" style and uses a plunger as do the earlier Park Aves.

I like it too. It will be a very pretty car once it is fixed; and that will involve some work. I like work.

[wnlewis]

Well . . ., I bought (and just received) a Fisher Body Service Manual. a very nice book in good condition. There appear to be two difficulties: 1.) that I just looked at the title of the item and its written description and did not pay much attention to the photo. The book is a 1978 Fisher Body Service Manual. So I have a nice book to sell cheap.

 

The second difficulty is that the body service information, is in the three volume shop service set that I already have. And, the first thing that they say that you have to do to fix door problems is to connect the diagnostic tool (computer) and ask the body computer to tell you what is wrong.

 

I looked from the back door on the passenger's side to the front on the passenger's side. None of the lock mechanism is even remotely visible. And the tube of my WD-40 can is running into obstacles. So I have no idea where the tube is bending. I will try to do down from the top at the back where the window goes up and down. Do I want to do that on the inside of the window or the outside.

 

I will also look at the volume on the body work and see what tools it recommends to use and see if I can get something similar in a set.

[Frank DuVal]

38 minutes ago, wnlewis said:

And, the first thing that they say that you have to do to fix door problems is to connect the diagnostic tool (computer) and ask the body computer to tell you what is wrong.

I saw the same comment on my daughter's 2015 Encore. I went ahead and replaced the tailgate latch that would not open the tailgate and all went well. 

 

Spray inside and outside of the window. Maybe some lube will get to where it is needed. This is not an exact science.

[wnlewis]

28 minutes ago, Frank DuVal said:

I saw the same comment on my daughter's 2015 Encore. I went ahead and replaced the tailgate latch that would not open the tailgate and all went well. 

 

Spray inside and outside of the window. Maybe some lube will get to where it is needed. This is not an exact science.

Oh really . . . I'm horrified . Thanks for the suggestions. I will give it a try.

 

Your words give me encouragement.

 

I"ve been looking at this and thinking, how am I ever going to do it - mostly because I didn't know where to start. But you guys are giving me good suggestions that I am trying.

[wnlewis]

32 minutes ago, Frank DuVal said:

I saw the same comment on my daughter's 2015 Encore. I went ahead and replaced the tailgate latch that would not open the tailgate and all went well. 

 

Spray inside and outside of the window. Maybe some lube will get to where it is needed. This is not an exact science.

I worked with a DuVal in Hesston, Kansas, for AGCO Corporation. Any relation?

 

[MRJBUICK]

just as an idea have you tried slim jimmimg the doors 

if you can get near the latch mechanism and pull on the levers on the latch you might get lucky

or 

you might make it worse 

just an idea Good Luck

Marty

[61polara]

You have said several times that the electric door locks don't work and you can't unlock the doors.  Have you tried the manual lock on each door located at the door handle?  It's my understanding that this will unlock the rear doors even with the child lock set.

[60FlatTop]

When I helped my son with his Park Ave door handle problem I was amazed at the plethora of aftermarket manufacturers.

 

https://www.carid.com/2000-buick-park-avenue-replacement-door-handles/

 

Buick mechanics were having a discussion just the other day.

 

[Frank DuVal]

On 8/22/2022 at 1:19 PM, wnlewis said:

I worked with a DuVal in Hesston, Kansas, for AGCO Corporation. Any relation?

Not that I am aware of. But go up two generations, go sideways and back down and there could be lots of relatives I have never met.😁

[Frank DuVal]

On 8/23/2022 at 5:09 PM, 61polara said:

  It's my understanding that this will unlock the rear doors even with the child lock set.

With the child lock set, only the outside door handle will operate the latch.

[Frank DuVal]

On 8/19/2022 at 1:14 PM, 60FlatTop said:

The '95 LeSabre has a better designed handle. It is the "old people grip" style and uses a plunger as do the earlier Park Aves.

Amen!

[EmTee]

If the front door can be opened can the rear door hinges be unbolted?  If so, maybe the rear door can be opened far enough to allow the door panel to be popped loose along the bottom and removed from inside.  Maybe remove the front fender to do the same with a stuck front door?  Short of cutting the door skin I have no other ideas...

[Dan O]

I heard about this thing called Uber the other day. 

[wnlewis]

Sorry for being out of the loop for so long. News to report.

 

The left rear door, which was stuck shut with the child proof latch which had been accidentally set by the father of the previous owner. I made a tool out of a clothes hanger and pushed the "finger" downwards and a bit outwards into the unlocked position, pulled up on the inside handle, and presto-change-o, the door opened. I checked the right rear door, set the child proof mechanism on manual.

 

You can open the door from the outside with the outside handle. Using the unlocking mechanism from the driver's front door (master buttons) does nothing. And pulling up on the outside handle opens the door but does not unset the child proof finger to the open position. Strictly and absolutely manual. But, that door is now open. The outside handle does not work, but I have a door to guide me, the right rear, that does work and I know how to take off inside panels now - something I never knew before. My head hurts from the information.

 

I was able to get the inside driver's side door inside panel off with ease. Next thing will be to check the door alignment, and install a new handle, removing the lock cylinder, and installing it in a new handle assembly.

 

And believe it or not, I was able to get the inside panel of the right front door, without destroying it.

 

There was/is something bound up, either in the rods, and lock cylinder mechanism, or in the latch. The fellow who had previously owned the car said that that door had been difficult to open - and shut, for quite a while.

 

I removed the clip from the rod that connects to the inside lock handle. The key seemed to turn the cylinder a little farther and easier.

 

The other thing I considered was that if the door is not plumb, then a little prying upward at the back end from inside might help relieve tightness and bind on the latch mechanism. So I pried upward and outward and at the same time, while pulling the inside handle out to open the door. There was a small audible sound, I pulled a little more, and the door swung open. Hurray!

 

The latch and all other moving linkages got liberal doses of spray Lithium grease (Champion brand spray lithium for chains, available at least at Walmart, I use it on my chain saw and some other things). I've not shut the door completely just yet. I want to get the other linkage released at the top and then unscrew the two screws that hold the door handle in the door.

 

The handle is not flush with the door on the outside, and it should be. It sits proud of the surface. The manual mentions two small rivets that have to be spread out gently to allow the assembly to come out of the body, and then to go back into the body. I'm guessing that was not done the last time.

 

All of the electric servo motors sound like they work.

 

I plan to pull the handle on a drier day (it's raining here), check the linkages, check the plumb of the right front door, and once things appear to be correct and well lubricated, put it back together (after I paint the black door handle).

 

So, the answer is, you can take off the inside panel on a shut front door.

 

The manual has a caution note about electric windows coming down fast and the be careful when working in the open area of an up window. What exactly is the hazard and where do I find that caution note in the manual?

 

I will try to send pictures soon.

 

 

Thank you everyone for encouragement and advice.

 

Neal Lewis

[wnlewis]

On 8/23/2022 at 3:41 PM, MRJBUICK said:

just as an idea have you tried slim jimmimg the doors 

if you can get near the latch mechanism and pull on the levers on the latch you might get lucky

or 

you might make it worse 

just an idea Good Luck

Marty

I did ask a locksmith about that, and he said not to do that with cars that have so much electronic control.

 

I really wanted to try what you suggested.

[wnlewis]

On 8/25/2022 at 10:02 PM, Frank DuVal said:

With the child lock set, only the outside door handle will operate the latch.

The outside door latch has binding problems down at the latch area.

 

The child proof lock is a manually operated only device. Even if opened from the outside, the child proof lock stays set. I tried out the right rear door (which is the only completely working door) and confirmed that the child proof lock is a manually only operated device.

[wnlewis]

On 8/25/2022 at 10:04 PM, Frank DuVal said:

Amen!

I own a '95 LeSabre and can confirm the observation of the old style door handle and thumb depressed opener. It is a whole lot better system.

[wnlewis]

On 8/26/2022 at 6:20 AM, EmTee said:

If the front door can be opened can the rear door hinges be unbolted?  If so, maybe the rear door can be opened far enough to allow the door panel to be popped loose along the bottom and removed from inside.  Maybe remove the front fender to do the same with a stuck front door?  Short of cutting the door skin I have no other ideas...

Fortunately, I managed to get all of the doors open, after taking off the inside panels from both front doors.

 

It looks like I may have to take out the window module and the window to get to the latch area, which may be part of the problem. The other part, may be that the door may not be entirely correctly hung. I really, really don't want to have to try to re-hang the door.

[wnlewis]

On 8/27/2022 at 10:39 AM, Dan O said:

I heard about this thing called Uber the other day. 

Unfortunately the Park Avenue is not quite old enough to be stylish just yet. However, I do have a '51 Ford Tudor Coupe with a Flathead V8, and an '87 Jaguar XJ6, that might qualify as Uber vehicles (but I still don't have a nice green uniform, Oh well . . .) 

[wnlewis]

It looks like I will need to remove the window module, and remove the window. Then I can remove the door handle on the outside, the linkages and the latch.

 

Once that is done, then I can check the linkages, possibly replace the latch, and check the door to see if it is hanging properly.

 

Here are three pictures. Two from inside toward the top, and one from the passenger's side of the door. In the first shot I see something that looks somewhat like the head of a wood screw. If that's what it is, it could be jamming up the works. Anyone with better ideas? Should it be there?

 

I think that there is enough play to let me take out the two screws that hold in the outside door handle and remove the outside door handle. If that object is a wood screw or similar, it should be easy to dislodge.

 

I hope that's what it is. I reviewed the shop manual today. In order to take out the window assembly, the latch must be removed too. But the only way to remove the latch is to remove three screws that are currently unavailable because they are at the back of the door, and the door is firmly shut again, resisting all efforts to open it.

 

wnlewis