wnlewis

Those lying on your back in the middle of the winter mechanic experiences are the pits. I really, really, really, want a heated garage.

Problem solved! THANKS! I expected to have to replace the resistor assembly, but the fuse (30 AMP slow blow MaxiFuse) did what it was supposed to do. Once the new one was installed, everything worked correctly! Plus I learned a good amount. When I get the time, I will take out the fuse and relay assembly, find the resistor assembly and document the whole thing with pictures and writing so that others will be able to do it easily. Do you, by any chance, know if there is an aftermarket dark gray/black plastic shield that goes over all of the components next to the firewall. The original one cracked and disintegrated several years ago. I don't have a drain tube for the motor and would like to have that.

Thanks. I will look. My best guess about the MaxiFuse is blown. Another couple of hours and I should be able to get to it.

I burned out the resistor controller on my 1995 Buick LeSabre. The motor was bad and didn't turn. Smoke came out the front windshield vent, so I may have really fried the resistor controller and maybe a relay. A new motor has been installed. It still does not run, even on high. I have a new resistor controller. The car has the four speed fan option, not the automatic. Now I need to learn how (or if I have to) to remove the Maxi Relay/Fuse assembly so that I can replace the resistor controller. Or, I need to find out if the resistor controller can be replaced without removing the Maxi Relay/Fuse assembly. Or if the resistor controller is in the passenger compartment up under and behind the glove box. I have the Buick shop manual, but it is not very explicit about how to remove/install the Maxi Relay/Fuse assembly. Thanks for any help.

Thanks! Plan to do more work on Monday. Maybe even get the window and window module out. That will let me start inspecting linkages, the lock cylinder, and the latch. And what I learn on this door I can apply to the driver's side front door which does not open from the outside. The linkages on it are binding. They work, but they pull too hard and caused the handle to break. The passenger's side rear door works OK. So it will be a model for how to do the driver's side rear door. wnlewis

I removed the two screws that hold the outside handle in place. Immediately the door made a sound and moved. I pulled on the inside handle and the door opened. I don't have the outside handle out of the door just yet. The linkage for the handle is still attached. But progress is being made. As you can see from the pictures, the door is open, the door handle assembly is partly out, and the latch (which is held in by three screws) is now accessible to be removed and checked. wnlewis

Disconnected rod goes to the lock cylinder and mechanism. I disconnected it to see what would happen. After it was disconnected the lock cylinder turns freely. Wood screw next on my agenda.

You are correct. And I didn't see that with my eyes. I only saw it when I started looking through the pictures that I took. I think that I can reach up inside and find out what my fingers tell me. The next step on the mystery is to remove the other rod and then the two bolts that hold in the door handle and lock.

It looks like I will need to remove the window module, and remove the window. Then I can remove the door handle on the outside, the linkages and the latch. Once that is done, then I can check the linkages, possibly replace the latch, and check the door to see if it is hanging properly. Here are three pictures. Two from inside toward the top, and one from the passenger's side of the door. In the first shot I see something that looks somewhat like the head of a wood screw. If that's what it is, it could be jamming up the works. Anyone with better ideas? Should it be there? I think that there is enough play to let me take out the two screws that hold in the outside door handle and remove the outside door handle. If that object is a wood screw or similar, it should be easy to dislodge. I hope that's what it is. I reviewed the shop manual today. In order to take out the window assembly, the latch must be removed too. But the only way to remove the latch is to remove three screws that are currently unavailable because they are at the back of the door, and the door is firmly shut again, resisting all efforts to open it. wnlewis

Unfortunately the Park Avenue is not quite old enough to be stylish just yet. However, I do have a '51 Ford Tudor Coupe with a Flathead V8, and an '87 Jaguar XJ6, that might qualify as Uber vehicles (but I still don't have a nice green uniform, Oh well . . .)

Fortunately, I managed to get all of the doors open, after taking off the inside panels from both front doors. It looks like I may have to take out the window module and the window to get to the latch area, which may be part of the problem. The other part, may be that the door may not be entirely correctly hung. I really, really don't want to have to try to re-hang the door.

I own a '95 LeSabre and can confirm the observation of the old style door handle and thumb depressed opener. It is a whole lot better system.

The outside door latch has binding problems down at the latch area. The child proof lock is a manually operated only device. Even if opened from the outside, the child proof lock stays set. I tried out the right rear door (which is the only completely working door) and confirmed that the child proof lock is a manually only operated device.

I did ask a locksmith about that, and he said not to do that with cars that have so much electronic control. I really wanted to try what you suggested.

Sorry for being out of the loop for so long. News to report. The left rear door, which was stuck shut with the child proof latch which had been accidentally set by the father of the previous owner. I made a tool out of a clothes hanger and pushed the "finger" downwards and a bit outwards into the unlocked position, pulled up on the inside handle, and presto-change-o, the door opened. I checked the right rear door, set the child proof mechanism on manual. You can open the door from the outside with the outside handle. Using the unlocking mechanism from the driver's front door (master buttons) does nothing. And pulling up on the outside handle opens the door but does not unset the child proof finger to the open position. Strictly and absolutely manual. But, that door is now open. The outside handle does not work, but I have a door to guide me, the right rear, that does work and I know how to take off inside panels now - something I never knew before. My head hurts from the information. I was able to get the inside driver's side door inside panel off with ease. Next thing will be to check the door alignment, and install a new handle, removing the lock cylinder, and installing it in a new handle assembly. And believe it or not, I was able to get the inside panel of the right front door, without destroying it. There was/is something bound up, either in the rods, and lock cylinder mechanism, or in the latch. The fellow who had previously owned the car said that that door had been difficult to open - and shut, for quite a while. I removed the clip from the rod that connects to the inside lock handle. The key seemed to turn the cylinder a little farther and easier. The other thing I considered was that if the door is not plumb, then a little prying upward at the back end from inside might help relieve tightness and bind on the latch mechanism. So I pried upward and outward and at the same time, while pulling the inside handle out to open the door. There was a small audible sound, I pulled a little more, and the door swung open. Hurray! The latch and all other moving linkages got liberal doses of spray Lithium grease (Champion brand spray lithium for chains, available at least at Walmart, I use it on my chain saw and some other things). I've not shut the door completely just yet. I want to get the other linkage released at the top and then unscrew the two screws that hold the door handle in the door. The handle is not flush with the door on the outside, and it should be. It sits proud of the surface. The manual mentions two small rivets that have to be spread out gently to allow the assembly to come out of the body, and then to go back into the body. I'm guessing that was not done the last time. All of the electric servo motors sound like they work. I plan to pull the handle on a drier day (it's raining here), check the linkages, check the plumb of the right front door, and once things appear to be correct and well lubricated, put it back together (after I paint the black door handle). So, the answer is, you can take off the inside panel on a shut front door. The manual has a caution note about electric windows coming down fast and the be careful when working in the open area of an up window. What exactly is the hazard and where do I find that caution note in the manual? I will try to send pictures soon. Thank you everyone for encouragement and advice. Neal Lewis

I worked with a DuVal in Hesston, Kansas, for AGCO Corporation. Any relation?

Oh really . . . I'm horrified . Thanks for the suggestions. I will give it a try. Your words give me encouragement. I"ve been looking at this and thinking, how am I ever going to do it - mostly because I didn't know where to start. But you guys are giving me good suggestions that I am trying.

Well . . ., I bought (and just received) a Fisher Body Service Manual. a very nice book in good condition. There appear to be two difficulties: 1.) that I just looked at the title of the item and its written description and did not pay much attention to the photo. The book is a 1978 Fisher Body Service Manual. So I have a nice book to sell cheap. The second difficulty is that the body service information, is in the three volume shop service set that I already have. And, the first thing that they say that you have to do to fix door problems is to connect the diagnostic tool (computer) and ask the body computer to tell you what is wrong. I looked from the back door on the passenger's side to the front on the passenger's side. None of the lock mechanism is even remotely visible. And the tube of my WD-40 can is running into obstacles. So I have no idea where the tube is bending. I will try to do down from the top at the back where the window goes up and down. Do I want to do that on the inside of the window or the outside. I will also look at the volume on the body work and see what tools it recommends to use and see if I can get something similar in a set.

I like it too. It will be a very pretty car once it is fixed; and that will involve some work. I like work.

Thanks John! I like your ideas. I plan to do them today!

I have an old 1995 Buick LeSabre, that in my opinion is two or three times the quality and dependability of the 1998 Park Avenue. The only thing is that I need a dependable car so that I can do some long needed work on the LeSabre. The 1998 Park Avenue in two words is, Flimzy Glitz. It is worth restoring, just for the challenge of doing it.

The previous owner could not get the right front door to open from the outside or from the inside. He had a fellow replace the outside handle and try to reconnect things. The replacement handle does not open the door and the inside handle still does not open the door. The left rear door used to work, said the previous owner, until someone set the child proof lock one time too many. It had been causing problems. On the last time, it refused to release and the door is completely locked from both the outside and the inside.

Here are pictures. The right rear opens from both the outside and the inside. The left front door opens from the inside, and maybe the outside, but that method (from the outside) is failing. No outside handle remains. It is getting very hard from the outside, like something is binding. The right front door would not open and the outside handle was broken. The former owner had a fellow replace the outside handle and try to reconnect it. The problem was not resolved. A key will turn the lock (at least some) but not unlock it. The outside handle assembly does not fit in the door properly and does not work. The left rear outside handle moves but does not seem to be connected to anything.

The doors that will not open at all are the passenger's side front door and the driver's side rear door. The way the car is put together, the outside edges of the inside panels are covered by the inside part of the body. That looks like it may prevent access to the outside edges of the inside panels. I need to look more carefully now that the wasps are gone. I'll see what exterior colors are available for that car from the aftermarket vendors. It's a silver color.

Now, what tools are needed to carefully remove inside door panels, especially on doors that cannot be opened?