28Chrysler52 Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 Hello! My name is Phil and I am new to this forum. Last week I picked up an old pre-war Chrysler. The owner has it titled as a 1926 but after decoding the Fedco plate I BELIEVE it is a '28 model 52. Can anyone confirm this with a few pics and also tell me how much looks original as far as body and interior? The Fedco was HH023P which I translate to 330231. It's got a 4cyl Redhead engine that runs extremely well, a 3spd manual, and mechanical brakes on the rear axle only which function dangerously comical. I'd like to basically confirm I'm right about it being a 28 model 52 coupe to correct the title when i register it and also that it is an early 28, as I've read that by March of 28 they switched to hydraulic brakes. One last thing, any good restoration parts sources out there?? Thanks to anyone who replies in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 27, 2022 Author Share Posted July 27, 2022 Also one last thing, how can I adjust door alignment on this? They're inboard at the top and kick out at the bottom and they also don't line up at the bodyline with the rear quarter panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldford Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 Looks like a 1926 Chrysler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 (edited) FEDCO chart shows that it was built in November of 1927 and probably considered to be a 1928.... Edited July 27, 2022 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 2 minutes ago, keiser31 said: FEDCO chart shows 1927.... So built November '27 and likely titled as a 1928? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 (edited) 2 minutes ago, nzcarnerd said: So built November '27 and likely titled as a 1928? Yes. I believe they built models like they do now....from September to August. New models here in the USA used to basically debut in September at the dealers. So being built in November is 2 months into the 1928 model year production. Edited July 27, 2022 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 As far as I know, with all of the smaller four cylinder Chryslers, the 50 and 52, two wheel brakes were standard and four wheel hydraulics were an extra cost option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 You have the incorrect cowl lamps on the car. They should be an smaller copy of the headlamps with the "ribbon" around the bezel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmoke Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 (edited) HHO from chart was manufactured in Nov '27 making it a 4 cyl model 52 business coupe, and likely a 1928 model as OP concluded. Top padded vinyl material likely is supposed to wrap down around rear of roof like a fake convertible. It was considered a 2 passenger car, fitted with trunk and sold for $725. The doors most likely can be adjusted into correct position by careful tweaking of mounting points, there is usually info on this in operating manual, or someone on here can tell you the drill. If body is currently slightly twisted because of too many or too fwew shims, that will but door our of alignment as you note. Getting everything straight can be a simple but time consuming process, involves loosening some body bolts, adding 1/16" shim re-tightening and seeing what improves, and then repeating over and over until all lines up. Much easier on a 2 door than on a 4 door! The Passgr door is high at front and low at rear. After you get the "twist out", some of this may resolve. If not, either front door post has to be raised slightly, or rear door post lowered. Sometimes 1/16" steel shim can make a big difference. Also keep an eye on both sides of car as you work, as a change on one side can cause a change on opposite side. When I do this my starting point is always making sure shims at forward most mounts (front of cowl) are even and firmly bolted down, and hood is properly in line (all gaps at ciowl and rad shell even and parallel). Edited July 28, 2022 by Gunsmoke (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 If those doors are wood framed, the kick out at the bottom is what happens when the wood gets loose. Are they wood? There might be an adjuster inside... or not. Or, you might need to add something. If there is an adjustment, it probably amounts to a rod or strap diagonally across the door. Tighten to pull the lower corner in. The other misalignment could be all sorts of things. Loose hinge pins, loose screws, broken wood etc. letting the back of the door hang down lower than normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 To address the sagging door situation....you more than likely have some bad wood in the door jambs. That is the first thing I would think. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 27 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said: HHO from chart was manufactured in Nov '27 making it a 4 cyl model 52 business coupe, and likely a 1928 model as OP concluded. Top padded vinyl material likely is supposed to wrap down around rear of roof like a fake convertible. It was considered a 2 passenger car, fitted with trunk and sold for $725. The doors most likely can be adjusted into correct position by careful tweaking of mounting points, there is usually info on this in operating manual, or someone on here can tell you the drill. If body is currently slightly twisted because of too many or too fwew shims, that will but door our of alignment as you note. Getting everything straight can be a simple but time consuming process, involves loosening some body bolts, adding 1/16" shim re-tightening and seeing what improves, and then repeating over and over until all lines up. Much easier on a 2 door than on a 4 door! The Passgr door is high at front and low at rear. After you get the "twist out", some of this may resolve. If not, either front door post has to be raised slightly, or rear door post lowered. Sometimes 1/16" steel shim can make a big difference. Also keep an eye on both sides of car as you work, as a change on one side can cause a change on opposite side. When I do this my starting point is always making sure shims at forward most mounts (front of cowl) are even and firmly bolted down, and hood is properly in line (all gaps at ciowl and rad shell even and parallel). Wow, alot of quick replies! I noticed that from the rear view of the car it looks like the quarters are out of whack, the truck seam should cover the gaps and it doesn't. Almost like it's too far put at the rearest points and too far in at the forward points. Also this is my first pre war car,so I am learning daily about this thing. My plan is that I want to do a museum quality restoration this fall thru the spring since the chassis is damn near perfect and it's overall really solid and I'd say 80-90% complete. Think it's worth saving? Seems to decent to cut up like the prior owner originally intended. I told him do NOT touch this car til I get there lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28 Chrysler Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 A typo with a 6 for an 8 could have been made years ago. You car has the ribbed pumpers that came out around the beginning of October of 1927. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 26 minutes ago, Bloo said: If those doors are wood framed, the kick out at the bottom is what happens when the wood gets loose. Are they wood? There might be an adjuster inside... or not. Or, you might need to add something. If there is an adjustment, it probably amounts to a rod or strap diagonally across the door. Tighten to pull the lower corner in. The other misalignment could be all sorts of things. Loose hinge pins, loose screws, broken wood etc. letting the back of the door hang down lower than normal. The PO or owner before him used 1/2 plywood. I've read it should be white ash to be period correct. That's the route I'm going to go when I begin the restoration providing its proper. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 2 PO's ago, at minimum, I believe used a non original tag with a stamped number that isn't the serial number/VIN to register it and did so as a 1926. Here is a pic of that tag which I assume is like a body-by-fisher number that was replaced? And a pic of 2 registrations ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 Also want to say thanks to all the replies so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 It depends on the state you are in! Here in California cars are registered as to the year they were first sold new. A brand new November 1927 car just weeks old ( 1928 styled) being sold for the first time would be registered here as a 1927. An earlier car off the assembly line that didn't find a new home until February of 1928 would be so registered as a 1928. A third example would be one that was used as a demonstrator or dealer executive's car and was finally parted from the dealership to an owner in January of 1929 would be registered as a 1929. Here in California the year on the registration is NOT when it was manufactured or year styling, only year in which it was first sold by the dealership. Very easy mistake to make here is to look on the registration and buy parts for the car based on that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLynskey Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 Don't take my information as hard facts, but I differ with some of the previous responders. As a previous owner of a 1928 Model 52 I can say this is not a 1928 Chrysler but older. The 1928 model 52 had bullet style headlights with no cowl lights. The parking lights were mounted in the headlight housing above the headlamp bulb, visible in this photo if the resolution is good enough. This is an unmolested 1928 Model 52 Landau sedan. This car had the 2-wheel mechanical brakes which were available, I believe throughout the 4-cylinder production. It's newer than 1926. This 1926 coupe has a taller squared off top, as you can see. You can also see that it does not have the fake convertible top that its GM competition had. If it's newer than 1926 and older than 1928 it must be --- drum roll --- a 1927 model. This one is a keeper. The 4-cylinder Chryslers were utilitarian cars, low on performance but very durable. And the 2-wheel brakes will stop the car, just not as quickly as 4-wheel brakes. It's easy to lock up the rear brakes. Parts are not difficult to find. The biggest thing that concerns me about this one is the sagging doors which likely indicate deterioration of the wood door posts (and possibly other structural wood). Be sure you understand the implications of that. Basically, the entire body structure is wood with metal wrapped around it. It doesn't mean it's a no-go, but just that the restorer might have to learn some new woodworking skills. Not necessarily a bad thing! Go for it. It's not a car you're likely to park beside at the local cruise-in. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viv w Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 The car is a model 52 and as rightly said, built in Nov 27. The model 52 however is considered a 1928 model. The 1926 and 1927 model 58 and model 50 have an oval instrument cluster, with round speedo, that is removeable as a unit from the dashboard. The model 52 has an oblong speedo and all the guages are mounted individually directly into the dashboard. The model 50's I had were fitted with the ribbon type drum headlights and tail light, the model 52's I had were fitted with bullet type lights, however there are so many changes on cars that I have seen, one cannot be sure if those drum lights left the factory with the car, or maybe they were fitted by a previous owner. Damman's book states that 4 cyl Chryslers had 2 wheel mechanical brakes and that hydraulic brakes became optional on the model 52 after March 1928. I have seen many pre 28 model 4 cyl cars with 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, so it begs the question, is Damman wrong, or did a lot of earlier cars get their brakes updated by the dealers? The tail light on your coupe is not Chrysler but most likely from a Dodge. The Chrysler one has a beehive type lens and would have been with a ribbon style rim to match your headlights or without the ribbon design if you have bullet type lights. The car can be made very nice, but like others, I suspect your doors are not hanging right due to woodwork problems. Another thing to watch on these 4 cyl cars, the right angle distributor drive is made of diecast metal, they are prone to swelling or disintegrating, check it, to make sure it turns freely. If it is stiff then strip it carefully and ream it until it turns easily. Viv. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 General concensus seems to be a Nov 27 build for a 28 year and I have some woodworking and parts hunting to do. I can't find parts online too easily. Any recommended sources? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31 LaSalle Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 1 hour ago, 28Chrysler52 said: General concensus seems to be a Nov 27 build for a 28 year and I have some woodworking and parts hunting to do. I can't find parts online too easily. Any recommended sources? will make a lovely car when restored. I have a 1928 Chrysler 72 conv coupe I have had a great deal of help and information from this site. so keep posting questions as you progress you restoration as for parts I have struggled but I am based in the uk lots of people say try jay at astheime@ptd.net for parts good luck John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viv w Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 (edited) Hi Phil, Depending on which style of headlights you decide upon using, will determine the type of tail light you need. Below is the ribbon style tail light, I have this rim sitting at my sisters in Canada, I bought it at Hershey for the conical "beehive" round lens some years ago, it is roughly 4&1/8inch diameter and is 2 &5/8inch centre to centre on the screw holes. Maybe it will fit your existing tail light housing. If you are interested I'm asking 20usd plus postage from Ontario. Below is a picture I took off ebay of a 28 Chrysler 60, this car had the bullet headlights and the correct style light for 1928 to match the headlights. The 28 should be a 3,5inch diameter tail light as shown below, with no peak on the rim. Earlier Chrysler B70 and G70 have an almost identical tail light to the 28 but they are 4&1/8inch diameter and have a peak on the top of the tail light rim. Edited July 28, 2022 by viv w (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 5 hours ago, 28Chrysler52 said: General concensus seems to be a Nov 27 build for a 28 year and I have some woodworking and parts hunting to do. I can't find parts online too easily. Any recommended sources? There are no catalogs like you find for Model A Fords and Chevrolet and other brands. Dealers in early Chrysler parts are smaller operations. Joining a Chrysler based club is your best bet to get information on parts as well as posting here. One person who posts here frequently looking for help with is old Chrysler said this person is a good source for parts. Try: He has many parts for early Chryslers... Jay Astheimer 610-863-6955 astheime@ptd.net 1092 Constitution Ave. Pen Argyl, PA 18072-9706 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 28, 2022 Author Share Posted July 28, 2022 10 hours ago, viv w said: Hi Phil, Depending on which style of headlights you decide upon using, will determine the type of tail light you need. Below is the ribbon style tail light, I have this rim sitting at my sisters in Canada, I bought it at Hershey for the conical "beehive" round lens some years ago, it is roughly 4&1/8inch diameter and is 2 &5/8inch centre to centre on the screw holes. Maybe it will fit your existing tail light housing. If you are interested I'm asking 20usd plus postage from Ontario. Below is a picture I took off ebay of a 28 Chrysler 60, this car had the bullet headlights and the correct style light for 1928 to match the headlights. The 28 should be a 3,5inch diameter tail light as shown below, with no peak on the rim. Earlier Chrysler B70 and G70 have an almost identical tail light to the 28 but they are 4&1/8inch diameter and have a peak on the top of the tail light rim. I'm interested. Can you PM me your info? Might be a couple weeks though, I've got a few other priorities to handle first. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLynskey Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 17 hours ago, viv w said: one cannot be sure if those drum lights left the factory with the car, or maybe they were fitted by a previous owner. For sure, it would have been an easy job to change the headlights. Changing from drum style to bullet headlights to make the car look newer would not be unusual, but the reverse to make it look older would be odd. And if an owner of a 1928 model 52 changed to drum headlights to make it look like a 1927, I would not expect him to go so far as to drill holes and run wiring to add cowl lights which were not originally on the 1928 model. Either way, the car is equally attractive and only a few obsessive car guys like myself will ever know the difference. It would be nice to have the title reflect the actual model if possible. Don 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
28Chrysler52 Posted July 30, 2022 Author Share Posted July 30, 2022 (edited) Im just registering this car for what it was previously registered as. Multiple POs were incorrect about its year and model. Whatever. I want to drive this damn thing legally. If DMV considers it a 1926 with an incorrect serial number so be it. I will get it in my name and then show the local DMV the facts and hopefully correct it later maybe. For now I just need this thing legally in my name with the Nazi York State DMV Edited July 30, 2022 by 28Chrysler52 Typos (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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