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Water pump rebuilder


Buick35

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Hi, I need the name of a good water pump rebuilder for my 35 Buick. I have an extra one that Id like to have rebuilt for a spare.Now it's frozen but it has two oil caps and the packing nut which my current one dosen't have.Also I just noticed my new one(about a year old)has a white powdery substance around the gasket like corosion? I've been running straight water with rust inhibitor.Maybe I should go back with anti-freeze.

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I had my 1928 Chrysler water pump rebuilt by Arthur Gould Rebuilders, 789 Wachusett St. Holden Mass. 01520 USA 508-210-0891.  They speacialize in antique car water and fuel pumps.  Great work, my pump needed a new impeller shaft which they had machined.  I recommend them.

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On 7/14/2022 at 11:48 AM, Buick35 said:

Do you recommend using anti-freeze?

The answer is yes.  Although you may not need it for freezing temperatures, it has corrosion inhibitors that help minimize corrosion,  This is especially important with old cars that have aluminum components in contact with engine coolant.  My good buddy Capt' Bob is currently replacing the aluminum cylinder head in his 1911 Model T due to electrolysis corrosion.  He is an old school guy that has always used soluable oil in his coolant for all his cars.  Now he will be using antifreeze and will also be installing a sacrificial zinc anode.

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13 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:

The answer is yes.  Although you may not need it for freezing temperatures, it has corrosion inhibitors that help minimize corrosion,  This is especially important with old cars that have aluminum components in contact with engine coolant.  My good buddy Capt' Bob is currently replacing the aluminum cylinder head in his 1911 Model T due to electrolysis corrosion.  He is an old school guy that has always used soluable oil in his coolant for all his cars.  Now he will be using antifreeze and will also be installing a sacrificial zinc anode.

Where can I get a sacrificial zinc anode and how to install it?Thanks

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I had my 1941 Buick radiator recored by an old school shop in San Carlos CA. Bill the elderly owner suggested the following procedure to refill the system: fill with entirely straight tap water and a small amount of water soluble rust inhibitor oil. The bay area’s water is very pure. So distilled water unnecessary. Drive the car a number of times, checking for leaks. Then drain out enough water to make room to add antifreeze concentrate. Add the concentrate. Done. 
 

I asked Bill why not use the 50-50 antifreeze from the beginning. He said using concentrate is cheaper than buying the 50-50. But he also said on the California coast with a garaged vehicle 50-50 isn’t necessary. For my car with a 14 quart capacity, 6 quarts of concentrate was his suggested amount. So it’s not much below 50-50, just a little. 
 

I didn’t ask Bill but I wonder if the oil rust inhibitor dilutes better and adheres better with straight water before adding the concentrate or better than using the 50-50 antifreeze as the first step. Any thoughts?

 

It does freeze in Florida occasionally but maybe that’s just in the north. It never freezes in San Francisco where I live. 

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On 7/14/2022 at 2:11 PM, Buick35 said:

Hi, I need the name of a good water pump rebuilder for my 35 Buick. I have an extra one that Id like to have rebuilt for a spare.Now it's frozen but it has two oil caps and the packing nut which my current one dosen't have.Also I just noticed my new one(about a year old)has a white powdery substance around the gasket like corosion? I've been running straight water with rust inhibitor.Maybe I should go back with anti-freeze.

I'm wondering where the what looks like corrosion is from and it occurred to me that we've been having 100% humidity and though my cars in a garage it's not climate controlled. I'm getting my spare water pump rebuilt anyway. Greg in Florida.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/14/2022 at 2:41 PM, edinmass said:

They are good guys, and did two pumps for me in the last three months. 

I just got my water pump back from Arthur Goud and after unpacking it I went to turn it by hand and it didn't budge! I worked it back and forth in the vise and I got it to move fairy easily but it still has a little rough spot.He said it should run in o.k. I guess that's the way those packing pumps are.Now I need to buy an 1 1/8" wrench for the packing nut if I need one. Greg

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If you have a problem let me know. He’s a good guy who stands behind his work. Can you post a photo or two of your pump? Thanks, Ed.

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No worries……photos here can be an issue. With new pumps I run water in the engine with cutting oil to break in the pump and packing, then after 100 miles switch over to anti freeze. 

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19 minutes ago, edinmass said:

No worries……photos here can be an issue. With new pumps I run water in the engine with cutting oil to break in the pump and packing, then after 100 miles switch over to anti freeze. 

What kind of cutting oil?Thanks

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18 hours ago, Buick35 said:

I will,Thanks.

I installed the pump today.I haven't run the engine yet but I poured coolant(water) in the top of the block and had lots of leaks! Most were from my house clamps.I thought I had them all stoped but then I saw another drip and it looks like it's from back of the water pump bottom rear plate bolt. I was able to get an open end wrench in there and tightened it a little bit still dripping. I'll probably have to pull the pump off again.What a pain! They said they'd reseal it if needed.Greg

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45 minutes ago, Buick35 said:

I installed the pump today.I haven't run the engine yet but I poured coolant(water) in the top of the block and had lots of leaks! Most were from my house clamps.I thought I had them all stoped but then I saw another drip and it looks like it's from back of the water pump bottom rear plate bolt. I was able to get an open end wrench in there and tightened it a little bit still dripping. I'll probably have to pull the pump off again.What a pain! They said they'd reseal it if needed.Greg

That's why us old guys do the first fill with plain tap water.  Been there, done that.

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1 hour ago, Grimy said:

That's why us old guys do the first fill with plain tap water.  Been there, done that.

 

Plain water with cutting oil!.........there is a method to my madness. 

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On 7/17/2022 at 11:28 AM, Shootey said:

I asked Bill why not use the 50-50 antifreeze from the beginning. He said using concentrate is cheaper than buying the 50-50.

I just always have the last old empty antifreeze container around, pour 1/2 of the new container into the old container, fill both with water. Ta Da! 50/50 mix ready to go! Been doing this for 50 years. Doesn't everybody?

 

Oh, write 50/50 on the containers with a Sharpie.;)

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I hope Gould did well with your pump.

 

A few years ago I sent them a pump off my Rickenbacker and after a few weeks they threw in the towel and said they couldn't do it.

 

One great thing is they did not charge me for the time they had the pump, I just had to find someone else to deal with it.

The pump ended up at the Flying Dutchman in OR and he did an amazing job on the pump.

Edited by zepher (see edit history)
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The tough part is sending parts made of unobtanium through the mail.

I am lucky to have two pumps for my Rickenbacker but I have zero idea where I would get another.

No one in the Rickenbacker Car Club has spares to sell at this point.

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On 8/4/2022 at 5:27 PM, Buick35 said:

Thanks.I can't get it to quit dripping so I called and they said to send it back. It looks like it's driping from the back cover plate.

I think I've located the drop coming from a very small hole on the back of the cover plate so I shipped it back today.I could probably deal it with something but I'll have them check it out and fix it.

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