1928 Roadster - How to put on a Lift

[TFB3]

I just bought a 1928 Standard Roadster. My first question is whether or not I can even put it on a lift. I can't seem to find a post about this or any diagrams that specify lift points. I've got a 2-post lift in my garage, but I'm reluctant to put the car up until I know how to do it correctly.

 

I know it's OK to lift the front wheels off the ground with a jack centered under the front axle, but the rear pumpkin has what looks like a rod or a torsion bar running side-to-side along the bottom of the axle housing and it doesn't look robust enough to be a lift point. I see the car has a full metal frame, so I'm thinking that might be a decent option?  

[Oregon Desert model 45]

I use a block of wood with a notch to clear that bar underneath.  I believe that tab sticking out the rear is meant to be a jack pad

[TFB3]

Thanks for the picture! That looks like a great idea.

 

I just went out to the garage and it looks as if I'll be able to slide the lift pad below the axle housing and above that cross-bar (exactly where your wooden block is shown). Then, if I use the height extenders that I use for my pickup, I'll be able to get a good solid hold of those lift pads while avoiding contact with the bar. 

 

And yes, I definitely agree. Now that I've looked at them closely, it really looks like those tabs were designed to be jack-receivers. Thanks very much for your reply! Tom

[Hubert_25-25]

Tom,

 That tab on the rear axle pivot is a jacking point.  This is a Buick photo used in 1926 and 1927 showing the jacking point and the factory jack.  

Note that this perch should only be used for changing one tire at a time.  You are on a perch, and things fall off perches.  This jacking point is also very small and the top of this factory jack is around 1" square.  This is not the ideal set up and hats off to you for asking the question.

It is much safer to make a block like Kevin shows and put the support under a larger part like the spring bearing where force is exerted upward on both sides of the rear bearing and things can not slip off.   The golden rule is to jack the car up till the wheels just clear the ground.  Then give the car a good push to ensure it will not fall off the jack.  If you use a jack, you have to also use jack stands.

When lifting the rear of the car, I do lift mine in the center of the rear axle with a floor jack, but I have a piece of wood in the jack point so that it pushes in the center on the rod and the lifting cup does not lift the rear axle by the rod further away from the center point.  I have 2 large jack stands that go under the frame just in front of the wheels. 

You can also lift the car by the frame just behind the front wheels, and just in front of the rear wheels.  

   Hugh

 

 

Edited March 15, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Mark Kikta]

I've put my 22 Touring on my assymetric lift a number of time with no issues.  Just needed the longest pad extensions to clear the running boards.  Used  points on the frame as far forward and aft I could use that were flat.

[Dave39MD]

It may be an old tale but I have  heard that jacking the front up from the center can bend the axle. Not positive one way or the other so I don't do it.

 

Dave

Edited March 16, 2022 by Dave39MD (see edit history)

[Oldtech]

I don't think so. Ever tried to bend one of ? 

[Hubert_25-25]

I jack up the front of my Buick on the center of that I beam cross member that holds the front tires all the time.  It will not bend from lifting the car.     Hugh

[TFB3]

Great discussion. I'm planning to get the car up in the air in the next few days. My first mission will be to do the oil, fluids and a full grease service. From the diagram in the shop manual, it looks like an all day job (at least the first time), but I'm looking forward to it. 

[Morgan Wright]

21 minutes ago, TFB3 said:

Great discussion. I'm planning to get the car up in the air in the next few days. My first mission will be to do the oil, fluids and a full grease service. From the diagram in the shop manual, it looks like an all day job (at least the first time), but I'm looking forward to it. 

 

The ground clearance under these cars is huge. I have no problem crawling under a 100 year old Buick to change the oil and grease everything. My problem is getting back up again.

[Buick35]

On 3/15/2022 at 10:22 PM, Morgan Wright said:

 

The ground clearance under these cars is huge. I have no problem crawling under a 100 year old Buick to change the oil and grease everything. My problem is getting back up again.

Just teach your car to roll over and scratch his belly.

[Ugly Rumor]

Might as well ad brake adjustment to the schedule, also, as you need all four wheels off the ground for that.

[TFB3]

Thank for the help. I did get the car up onto my lift and it seems stable and undamaged.   I'm in the midst of working through my first fluids change now.

 

Funny side note.... who decided to make the differential drain a 5/16 square female pseudo-allen fitting (just square, not hexagonal)? LOL  I'm now in the process of grinding a huge bolt down to size so I can create a tool to get in there. 

[Rock10]

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2049-Square-Sockets/dp/B008TOHAVG/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B008TOHAVG&psc=1

 

https://www.zoro.com/jones-stephens-plug-wrench-countersunk-4-way-j40040/i/G5428357/feature-product?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&gclid=CjwKCAjwxOCRBhA8EiwA0X8hi-2H84CXXyVM1tdAoljYQQ87jdfsSunugLsVd_txyY0ijx_xgKqE5BoCAl8QAvD_BwE

 

[edinmass]

Putting a pre war car on a two post lift is always a poor choice.......if you must, open all the doors so when it flexes it won’t jam the doors...........don’t leave it up for long............in my garage we NEVER lift a pre war car up on a two post lift ever.