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Rear window clip installation


Zack209

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Look at the Body section of your shop manual to see how the window trim clips work. You slip a little tool up under the trim to release the trim from the clip.

 

The clip itself on a 1963 model is held to the window frame with a small phillps head screw. The clips are spring steel and they do rust/break.

Edited by Jim Cannon (see edit history)
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On 11/7/2021 at 4:46 PM, Jim Cannon said:

Look at the Body section of your shop manual to see how the window trim clips work. You slip a little tool up under the trim to release the trim from the clip.

 

The clip itself is held to the window frame with a small phillps head screw. The clips are spring steel and they do rust/break.

Jim,

  Yet another distinction between the `63 and later model Rivs.

Tom 

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If you know the exact size, here's your choices from Mr. G's Enterprises

https://mrgusa.com/fasteners/

 

Scroll down until you find the PDF file for Windshield Molding Clips - the files are in page order, look for pages 60- 62  If you know the TPI, screw in studs are at the bottom of page 62.

 

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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These shoulder screws are available through a few vendors on Ebay. I bought some for my '64 Riviera to replace the original nails. I may not use them but I will see.

 

The thickness of the glass puts them, a drill bit, or a screwdriver dangerously close to the glass. I didn't realize it when I installed the new windshield. My safest option is to remove the glass, put the screws in new holes close to the old, and reinstall, what I want to do.

 

My body work advisor recommends I use a technique preferred by Volvo for similar trim that uses modern adhesive. As usual, if I ask for advice I should take it. Maybe the best idea is to buy a second set of stainless, glue my originals in, and let Murphy's Law protect me from losing an original. "If I have a spare I will never need it".

 

GM GMC Chevy Window Trim Clip Molding Spot Weld Pin Stud Screw In Studs 10pcs

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OK Riviera People: Part #8583  from  Clipsandfasteners.com. Package of 100 for $14 plus tax and the ride.  They fit the windshield too as well as many other GM's of this era.  A direct replacement for GM #4533699. Made by Aaveco, a good outfit. 

 

Pull the moldings off, pull the glass if you know how, clean the crap out of the channel and pray.....for no rust holes. Mitch

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11 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

These shoulder screws are available through a few vendors on Ebay. I bought some for my '64 Riviera to replace the original nails. I may not use them but I will see.

 

The thickness of the glass puts them, a drill bit, or a screwdriver dangerously close to the glass. I didn't realize it when I installed the new windshield. My safest option is to remove the glass, put the screws in new holes close to the old, and reinstall, what I want to do.

 

My body work advisor recommends I use a technique preferred by Volvo for similar trim that uses modern adhesive. As usual, if I ask for advice I should take it. Maybe the best idea is to buy a second set of stainless, glue my originals in, and let Murphy's Law protect me from losing an original. "If I have a spare I will never need it".

 

GM GMC Chevy Window Trim Clip Molding Spot Weld Pin Stud Screw In Studs 10pcs

Bernie,

  When you refer to "nails" on your `64 did you originally have screws or welded studs?

Thanks,

Tom

 

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  Interesting thread, just a couple of observations and more info...

  I wouldnt refer to parts which are available in the aftermarket as evidence of originality.

  Nor would I completely depend on multi-year GM parts books, as the parts are frequently homolagated which can be deceiving regarding originality... but it IS a step in the right direction. I prefer to use the single year parts books which are issued in that model year and generally deal only with that model year.

  Also referring to GM parts books, whenever I see a reference to a "type", as in this case, "screw in type", that indicates to me there were more than one single type or version.

  I have a `65 CA parts car which I am slowly dismantling, so, considering there is very little rust/corrosion, even in the rear window channel, I thought it would be a good source of the original rear window molding attachment method; as opposed to a car which may have been restored in this area and may not still be original. There are welded studs around the perimeter of the window in the window channel which accept the pictured clips. This is consistent with the dozens of `65 rear windows Ive worked on over the years.

  Looking at the pictured clip, the clip pushes over the stud via the backside slot and locks onto the stud via the square shaped "lock" on the front side of the clip.

  I suspect the attachment method evolved from `63, which is the first year GM started gluing the glass onto the pinchweld, and `65, in which a welded stud was utilized.

Tom Mooney

rear window stud and clip 1.jpg

rear window stud and clip 2.jpg

rear window stud and clip 3.jpg

Edited by 1965rivgs (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

I suspect the attachment method evolved from `63, which is the first year GM started gluing the glass onto the pinchweld...

 

That makes sense to me.  GM may have wanted to wait and see how the clip arrangement worked before committing to tooling necessary for the welded studs, which would presumably reduce the production labor required.  GM ultimately adopted the welded stud type attachment for a host of moldings, including exterior body side moldings.  I believe they replaced the earlier spring-type molding clips that snapped into holes in the side body panels because when used with nylon molding clips, there was no damage to the finish (as when the metal clip chips the paint at the edge of the hole).

 

image.png.039a896973f4fb56c2e47de6a1610d

Edited by EmTee (see edit history)
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