Bloo Posted June 24, 2022 Share Posted June 24, 2022 (edited) Brillman https://brillman.com/ Edited June 24, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted June 24, 2022 Share Posted June 24, 2022 I've used YnZ wiring and Brillman for good repop cloth wire, both are excellent resources. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilAndrews Posted June 27, 2022 Share Posted June 27, 2022 On 6/6/2022 at 9:02 AM, NightTrain said: Oh, thats a real good idea. By chance, do you know if the accelerator pump was rubber or leather? She is tuned now, but if I have issues, I might copy what you did. It's a leather seal on the pump. I had missed this. All the wires on mine were junk, the rubber had perished and the cotton was so much dust in the wind. If you're redoing the engine side wires, bump up the headlight circuit a couple of gauges. What the factory fitted worked, but it wasn't really up to task. Looks like you should have an enjoyable car afterward. And yes, that was the later model fuel pump diaphragm you bought, there's 2 versions (ask me how I know). Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 2, 2022 Author Share Posted July 2, 2022 (edited) Making some more progress. Cleaning up and painting things. Rebuilt the wiper motor. Made a new gasket and cleaned everything up. Tested it out by hooking a vacuum line up to it and the motor now moves like it should. Got the wire I ordered from Brillman. Now to tackle this mess of wiring. It’s getting real close to try and start. Edited July 2, 2022 by MyhreMade (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 Fantastic!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 2, 2022 Author Share Posted July 2, 2022 Not sure if this video will work but I’ll try uploading it. This is testing the motor out. Wiper motor test 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 That's a good indication of your skills, so I'm sure the rest of the car will be performing flawlessly in time. Good job.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted July 2, 2022 Share Posted July 2, 2022 While you have it out where you can see it, also check that it does not leak vacuum when switched off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 5 hours ago, Bloo said: While you have it out where you can see it, also check that it does not leak vacuum when switched off. That’s a good idea. I mounted it back on the car last night. I had to try it out today to see if it actually moved the wipers and to see that the switch in the car worked. Definitely needs some new wiper blades but it moves the wipers. https://youtube.com/shorts/kpCtZyXxquo?feature=share 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 3, 2022 Author Share Posted July 3, 2022 I’m waiting on a few things but I’m wondering if maybe I can try starting it. The generator is out being rebuilt right now and I need to work on the radiator. Still have to look at the wiring and figure out that mess. What would be the easiest quick wiring to try and start it? I plan to bypass the fuel tank for now and just hook a bottle or something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted July 3, 2022 Share Posted July 3, 2022 On 4/17/2022 at 9:48 AM, Summershandy said: Not sure how close a '54 is but I ended up making that bracket. Quite easily actually. I also have an original bracket near the firewall where the pipe bends. The last bracket is at the tailpipe. All 3 in total. Hope you have better luck with fit then me. I got mine from Classic and had to have a muffler shop remake the piece off the manifold. The bend was bad enough it wouldn't clear the second hole in the frame. Thanks for sharing the posts. It's been a long winter up here and with no car shows the past 2 years makes one miss those days! your road draft tube needs to be more vertical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 Had an interesting 4th of July weekend. I ended up picking up another 53. I saw it for sale but it was already marked sold when I saw it. The family and I were on our way home from Rochester MN on the weekend and I saw the add wasn’t marked sold anymore. We happened to be driving right by the guys place heading back to the cities. Stopped by to check it out and made a deal. Came back the next day and picked it up. The guy I got it from has a nice 53 he had been working on too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 Started cleaning it up a little bit. The body is in really good shape. Needs new floors in the front. Rear looks good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 I’ve been trying to get it started. It’s really close but I can’t get it to take off and keep going. I put new points and condenser in and have spark. Put new wires and plugs. Adjusted points gap. Put fresh professional rebuilt carburetor on it. I believe I have the #1 plug in the right spot on the distributor. And then the rest of the plugs in firing order going counter clockwise. Cleaned fuel pump bowl and plumbed fresh gas to the pump. Kind of at a loss at what else to try. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 55er Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 I hate to mention this but the choke's open, right? No need for the choke to be closed in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted July 12, 2022 Author Share Posted July 12, 2022 5 hours ago, The 55er said: I hate to mention this but the choke's open, right? No need for the choke to be closed in July. Yes the choke butterfly is in the open position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 Maybe sticking valves? Try a compression test to see if any cylinders are really low. If so, you can decide how to proceed. Maybe remove lifter covers and check action there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 3 hours ago, EmTee said: Maybe sticking valves? Try a compression test to see if any cylinders are really low. If so, you can decide how to proceed. Maybe remove lifter covers and check action there... Careful with a compression test, dont go too deep into the block and do a wet test, its old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 2 minutes ago, NightTrain said: Careful with a compression test, dont go too deep into the block and do a wet test, its old. Sorry, one other thing. It sounds like its not getting enough fuel. Dump some down the carb, just to see. Also, try a 6v low pressure electric pump…easy to pick up from the store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 I see you are using a remote start switch.. do you have a hot wire from battery to coil.. As the car appears to be an automatic, the bypass safety switch may be bad.. disabling the key switch... just be certain transmission is in park before 'remote's starting... also as nighttrain said, more gas... I use a water bottle with a pinhole in the cap. spray as needed to keep running.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 also, nice car... paint cleaning up nice... same color as mine, less dark green roof... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW4X4 Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 6 hours ago, MyhreMade said: Yes the choke butterfly is in the open position. Sorry but this is bad advice. A warm engine is about 200 deg. F. Even if your working in a garage at 90 deg. its not even half warmed up. Close the choke full. If it doesn't start with in a few cranks, open it full. Some where in between, cranking it, with the choke opened and close it will get the right mixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 4 hours ago, NightTrain said: Careful with a compression test, dont go too deep into the block and do a wet test, its old. Dry is fine - this is just a gross test to see whether one or more cylinders are hanging a valve open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 6 hours ago, VW4X4 said: Sorry but this is bad advice. A warm engine is about 200 deg. F. Even if your working in a garage at 90 deg. its not even half warmed up. Close the choke full. If it doesn't start with in a few cranks, open it full. Some where in between, cranking it, with the choke opened and close it will get the right mixture. I agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 2 hours ago, EmTee said: Dry is fine - this is just a gross test to see whether one or more cylinders are hanging a valve open. Good call, you can see if the valves are hung if you inspect without the sparkplugs in too… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 (edited) really nice car I love this forum!!! I am going to use Myhre’s thread to ask a question of my own. I got my 53 running about a year ago. I’ve been working on getting it roadworthy. One thing I can’t seem to get right is the charging system. I have a new generator several new voltage regulators and still the system won’t charge on an original 6 V system. I plan to go through the wiring again just to make sure everything is grounded. Also I did a ton of research on voltage regulators, adjustments, and how they don’t need adjustment as a new part. No charge…thoughts? Edited July 12, 2022 by NightTrain (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john hess Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 regulator may need polarized.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 12, 2022 Share Posted July 12, 2022 5 minutes ago, john hess said: regulator may need polarized.... Thanks, did that too. With as much as I have that damn thing apart, I cant count the times I have polarized, thanks again!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 On 7/12/2022 at 6:58 PM, NightTrain said: Thanks, did that too. With as much as I have that damn thing apart, I cant count the times I have polarized, thanks again!! If anyone cares to hear….lol too much load with the electric pump and fan, couldn’t keep up at idle…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 (edited) Generators don't keep up at idle. That's normal. There are only 2 poles in most of them (unless you are driving a bus), and you can only spin them so fast before they fly apart from centrifugal force, so that limits what you can do with just pulleys. It's generally fine. Check the charging voltage against the voltages (and temperature) in the shop manual and see if it is set normal. For most people what is in the book (probably 7.4 or 7.5 volts at room temperature) will be fine. If the battery is perpetually low after a week of driving, try turning up the voltage about a tenth of a volt. Edited July 19, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 On 7/12/2022 at 11:35 AM, john hess said: I see you are using a remote start switch.. do you have a hot wire from battery to coil.. As the car appears to be an automatic, the bypass safety switch may be bad.. disabling the key switch... just be certain transmission is in park before 'remote's starting... also as nighttrain said, more gas... I use a water bottle with a pinhole in the cap. spray as needed to keep running.... the "park" position is the reverse gear with the engine turned off, but he should make sure the Hydra-Matic selector is in Neutral before trying start the engine without the ignition switch. likely he has the ignition key and switch in the ON position, and just using a remote starter switch so he can be under the hood to observe. On 7/12/2022 at 11:35 AM, john hess said: I see you are using a remote start switch.. do you have a hot wire from battery to coil.. As the car appears to be an automatic, the bypass safety switch may be bad.. disabling the key switch... just be certain transmission is in park before 'remote's starting... also as nighttrain said, more gas... I use a water bottle with a pinhole in the cap. spray as needed to keep running.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summershandy Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 On 7/3/2022 at 12:22 AM, pontiac1953 said: your road draft tube needs to be more vertical. When I removed and reinstalled the tube, I placed it back to where it was. No where in the manual can I find the proper position unlike the oil filler cap. I see my road tube sits above part of the frame. I thought it was leaking a bit so I would rather it drip there than on the exhaust. As it sits....how more vertical you think it should be? Reason I'm asking is I'm under doing an oil change and now may be the time to adjust. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted August 2, 2022 Share Posted August 2, 2022 On 7/18/2022 at 8:03 PM, Bloo said: Generators don't keep up at idle. That's normal. There are only 2 poles in most of them (unless you are driving a bus), and you can only spin them so fast before they fly apart from centrifugal force, so that limits what you can do with just pulleys. It's generally fine. Check the charging voltage against the voltages (and temperature) in the shop manual and see if it is set normal. For most people what is in the book (probably 7.4 or 7.5 volts at room temperature) will be fine. If the battery is perpetually low after a week of driving, try turning up the voltage about a tenth of a volt. Thanks for the advice. I have no clue how to turn up the voltage. Is that adjusting the regulator? If so, I would need to bend the spring mount? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted August 3, 2022 Share Posted August 3, 2022 (edited) It depends on the regulator. Some of them you bend the spring mount (on the voltage regulator relay), others may have a screw. The spring tension on the voltage regulator relay is what does it. It is really fiddly to do because the temperature matters, and the setting changes with the cover off. You have to keep putting the cover back on to get an accurate test, run the engine up to cruise speed (because generators don't keep up at idle), recheck, try again, etc., and it is a tiny change. Tenths are a big deal in charging rate. Better yet is to set up the equipment as shown in the shop manual, but that is not always possible. If you know where you are or were with the voltage and are making a relative change you can probably get by not doing that. Edited August 27, 2022 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightTrain Posted August 4, 2022 Share Posted August 4, 2022 Thanks so much!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted August 27, 2022 Author Share Posted August 27, 2022 Exciting day today. Got the original 53 started up today. This was seized and had broken valves when I got it. Here is a before and after picture. Still need a lot of work but it’s fun to hear it run. Hadn’t run in probably 20 years. 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyhreMade Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share Posted August 31, 2022 I was repainting my radiator before putting it back in the car and noticed two cracks in the top. Is this an area it can leak from? What would be the best way to fix it? Brazing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 I would clean and solder them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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