PhilAndrews

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Everything posted by PhilAndrews

  1. As much as it's nice to have a fairly comprehensive set of gauges in the dash, I do like having a couple of attention-getters for important things, particularly as the oil pressure gauge is rather lethargic. So, I fabricated a little under-dash light board that's fairly inconspicuous. Heat stamped the meaning of each light (changed the colors around because the orange is more visible and the oil pressure concerns me much more than the charging system) so that's good for now. Decided to just shotgun the brake cylinders so that's on hold while I save up for the parts, hence doing stuff that costs nothing because I had the parts to hand. Phil
  2. Previous keeper overpacked the hub with grease. A small amount got into the drum and onto the edge of the brake shoes. Thoroughly degreased the hub and drum, rubbed the outside down and gave it a coat of paint. Shoes next up to be thoroughly cleaned. Phil
  3. Not a great deal to report right now, but I'm going to see about sending the wiper motor off for rebuild. Front driver's side brake adjuster locknut cane off without too much of a fight. Cleaned it up. ...and painted it black. Drum off next, bearings will get a clean and fresh grease, I will free up and lubricate the lower adjuster then reassemble it all and set the brakes. Phil
  4. I do rather enjoy looking at the gauges. I ran the car up to warm and the temperature gauge was pointing to about 210- I got worried and checked the temperature of the head, thermostat housing, radiator with my handheld infrared thermometer, the hottest part was the thermostat housing at 175F, the temperature sender was about 165. I then remembered I calibrated the gauge at 12.0 Volts- with the engine running a stable 14.4 was making it over read and with the engine off it was reading somewhere correct, so I think it has a voltage regulator in it's future to be useful. Other than that I'm fighting with the vacuum system for the wipers and particularly the screenwash bottle, which refuses to pump given the volume flow through the wiper motor valve. Phil
  5. Bought some tube and fittings and reconnected the oil pressure line. Need to get some P clips. Now all my gauges work properly. Phil
  6. Sounds a little better now, cleaned all the cobwebs out. Phil
  7. One valve was way off- but it runs again. Need to fill up the radiator and run it up to warm and set the clearances properly. Phil
  8. Alright, there's all the springs back on. Clearances next, then it can all go back together. Phil
  9. I set about cleaning the valve spring components, oiled them back up. Brand new exhaust valve arrived in from California Pontiac Restoration. I lapped it in to the seat and it sits nicely now. Had a little time yesterday to work on the car so managed to fit the springs to the intake and exhaust of #1 cylinder, and set the clearances to 13 thou'. Phil
  10. Going to call that done, I think. Regular scheduled programming will resume soon. Phil
  11. No sir. By trade I'm a network engineer, I make the Internet happen. Phil
  12. Sure did. Figured the plain white was just too... plain. Still a bit to do yet. Phil
  13. Painted the workshop, was too plain. Need to find my paintbrushes. Phil
  14. The brush proved effective, flushing through the guides with brake cleaner and oiling them up with clean oil afterwards. Starting to lap the valves in, ran out of time tonight but hopefully I can finish up 15 this weekend. Phil
  15. I had considered that but I had this to hand and figured it is only going to be ruined in the process so why spend anything on destroying a tool.
  16. I made a guide brush by chopping up a toothbrush and gluing it to a piece of dowel. The glue is setting right now, I'll see if it works tomorrow. Phil
  17. Block looks pretty barren now. Seats look good though. Valves all clean, but I'm thinking about getting an ultrasonic bath, doing springs and stuff in gasoline with a brass brush is horrible. Phil
  18. Started pulling valves out. Everything needed a good clean- that there is post clean. All but one of the valves removed so far are good. Still don't know cause but replacing it will help. Gotta rotate the crank round and get the last 4 out. Phil
  19. That had crossed my mind. You can see the rag stuffed in the drain hole by the valve missing the spring- I also had Magnet-On-A-Stick (very useful tool) sitting in the gallery which was used to pluck the collets! Putting them back on is better, a bit of grease on the inside of the collet and it sticks to the stem and stays there. Phil
  20. Thanks for that - I want to get the rest of the valves out first and inspect them and the guides before making any calls. It's been cold and I've not felt like crawling around under the car - plus to do it without losing the collets is a two-person job because I can't reach to give the valve head a tap once the spring tension is taken up and the valve stem is supported... Hopefully this weekend I can make some progress. --Phil
  21. I don't know any local machine shop that would do that- there really aren't many places left around here who aren't just parts fitters. --Phil
  22. That one doesn't seal because the head is bent... I am going to need a couple new valves, I think. Going to pull the rest and inspect them, being as there's no mechanical signs on this one of being bent, I'm thinking perhaps it was either made wrong or wasn't heat treated or is the wrong metal mix or something. Phil
  23. Valve tool ahoy. Compressed the valve, removed the collets and then started to fight with the valve. This took 40 minutes to remove from the guide. It was just dirty. Cleaned the guide and stem up, oiled up and it drops in happily now. Spent a little time lapping in the seat. Not the easiest position... Phil