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Everything posted by PhilAndrews

  1. Gosh, where were we? Well, in about the same place because I've been focusing on a couple other projects that take a little less money. (Radio for this, radio for a friend's '33 Model A). I pulled the pitman arm off the steering box and pulled the shaft out the other day. There's a fair bit of slack in both the upper and lower bushings, leading to a fairly bad null zone at the steering wheel. Would anyone recommend a rebuilder? The shaft itself isn't too bad, just the bronze bushings and seal need replacing. There's a bit of slack in the worm wheel ball bearings also. Thanks --Phil
  2. Either that or it just needs to be pulled round one turn to re-index it and pull on the peg when cold. It should become loose when it's hot, tight when it's cold. Mine takes probably about a foot-pound to twist open when it's cold. I'll take a photo of the spring side tonight. Phil
  3. I'm going to take a look and see if it's closed itself back up a little later on. Feeling how much tension is on the spring, I would say yes. Phil
  4. John The hotspot in its closed position. That's there cold. After heating the bimetallic coil with my torch: It falls open under the weight of the offset mass. Phil
  5. John I never checked to see if it moves. I can look up and see if it's open or closed when it's cold- it does spring against the bimetallic coil. I can heat that up with my torch and see if it changes position. Phil
  6. Grizz, the requirement is minimal. All it needs is a battery, the + terminal to the connector closest to the engine block on the solenoid (not the one with the fat copper connection to the nut on the starter motor!), battery - terminal to a ground point on the block, I used the one from the battery at the front top left, and a wire from the SW terminal of the coil connected to the + terminal of the battery in a fashion it can be pulled off in a hurry. I just stuffed the wire into the gap in the battery terminal. Fuel can on a pipe attached to the intake of the pump. Block the vacuum port on the pump if it's connected, at the manifold if not. Then, screwdriver between the little nut at the top of the solenoid to the big but with the battery wire on. That'll energize the solenoid, pull the gear to mesh and turn the engine over. Don't forget to brace the engine, it has a lot of torque and will flip itself onto its side if you rev it hard. To stop the engine, pull the SW wire off the battery. Phil
  7. All back together, runs nicely. Need to get a new set of manifold gaskets but that's pretty much done now. Phil
  8. I have a good quality RTV type sealant that's rated for antifreeze and oil (Renault Mastixo) that I'm going to use. I figured that composite gaskets always split or tear when you try and remove them anyway, so the addition of that would improve the seal, at the behest of knowing the gasket will be junk next time it's split. Phil
  9. No, mine is the type where it's all machined flat and requires the circular gasket by itself on the top right bolt hole. That's pretty much the color I painted mine, too. Phil
  10. I think I'm going to make it the full size of the backplate because water has gotten down between the gaps and was rusting. I've cleaned that up, hopefully it'll prevent that occurring. My engine is rather outside warranty. Phil
  11. Apart from economy, I cannot see a good reason why the water pump gasket shouldn't be the full size of the water pump backplate? Phil
  12. Pulled the water pump, shone my bright flashlight down inside and apart from about half a teaspoon of crud spread over the back half, the brass guide insert is in good shape. Bought some new gasket paper also. Phil
  13. That's the purpose of this work. The gearbox seals are all shot; once that changes OK I need to look at the steering box, as the Pitman arm bearing has a lot of lash. Phil
  14. Surprisingly the seals have been done. The only thing that leaks oil is the gearbox- the engine is totally dry.
  15. Not yet. I just pulled the top end to see how the rebuild work was done- not bad but not great. What's the normal failure mode of the tubes? Phil
  16. "close enough". Previous owners painted the car the wrong shade of blue. It's Starmist, but the wrong manufacturer's Starmist. When I have the money, it's all going back to the correct color. For now, it's being protected by a decent coat of paint. Phil
  17. Mid Brunswick. Being as my car is '57 Ford Thunderbird Starmist... Deep turquoise works. Phill
  18. Pontiac used dark Brunswick green for their engines, from what I can see. Admittedly not that color (better than Hunter green), but it's better than black. Phil
  19. They're both by the intake valve. Shouldn't have thought it's anything to do with flow in the combustion area for the end two pots, so who knows. I'll go with manufacturing oddity for now, then. Phil
  20. Block deck is clean, everything's in pretty good shape. Cleaned the head up- what's the dimple in the squish space for? There's another in #1 on the other end. Phil
  21. Cylinder head is coming up ok. Bought some new #9 blades for my scraper. Pistons just wiped clean with a little carburetor cleaner. I'll clean the deck up like the head. Whoever did the work wasn't as thorough. Phil
  22. When I got it no. I tightened it up center, working outward and it sealed up ok, but the gasket on that end is bad and the water leaked from the bolt hole to the exhaust port. Phil
  23. That's what I thought when I discovered the bolt wasn't into a blind hole and water came streaming out... Phil
  24. Another question! (Whodathunkit?) Should the manifold be held in with all studs, or is it a mixture of studs and bolts? I didn't measure, but the exhaust bolt on the furthest flywheel end is a bolt on mine- was that factory to allow the manifold clearance against the firewall to be removed? Phil