Like to find a remote battery kill switch for my 6 volt ‘48 Lincoln

[John_Mc]

Can anyone suggest where to go for one of these??  Everything I see is for 12 volt, which would probably work, but I’m concerned about amperage. 

[Matt Harwood]

They're commonly available, although in a 6V system you want one with a LOT of current capacity. I use this one on my 6V cars:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Severe-Master-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B07L2JRHRQ/ref=psdc_15719961_t1_B012QNZFKI

 

300 amps continuous and 1000 amps intermittent (like starting). Don't worry about the voltage, the switch only cares about current. There are cheaper ones but they have ratings from 50-125 amps, which is inadequate for a 6V system. The heavy-duty switch is more expensive (about $50) but will not be the bottleneck on your electrical system and you won't wonder why your car won't start when it's hot. It also won't melt if you have to crank it for a while. Always spend the money to get the good stuff and you'll be happier with your old car every day.

[John_Mc]

Thanks Matt, yes those are everywhere, but I want a remote disconnect.  Don’t want to do any cutting. 

[DonMicheletti]

I modified one of those switches using a choke cable to the dash. Not too hard to do and I love it.

Just a bit of bracketry.

The switch is mounted at the starter

[padgett]

Are you talking about something on the dash or body, or something that mounts on the battery. For cars sitting for a while I use a knife switch on the negative terminal.

OTOH you said "kill" switch and to do that you need to interrupt the ignition and the battery. SCCA requires them.

[John_Mc]

8 hours ago, DonMicheletti said:

I modified one of those switches using a choke cable to the dash. Not too hard to do and I love it.

Just a bit of bracketry.

The switch is mounted at the starter

Hey that’s clever.

[John_Mc]

On 9/12/2020 at 10:15 AM, Matt Harwood said:

They're commonly available, although in a 6V system you want one with a LOT of current capacity. I use this one on my 6V cars:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Severe-Master-Battery-Disconnect/dp/B07L2JRHRQ/ref=psdc_15719961_t1_B012QNZFKI

 

300 amps continuous and 1000 amps intermittent (like starting). Don't worry about the voltage, the switch only cares about current. There are cheaper ones but they have ratings from 50-125 amps, which is inadequate for a 6V system. The heavy-duty switch is more expensive (about $50) but will not be the bottleneck on your electrical system and you won't wonder why your car won't start when it's hot. It also won't melt if you have to crank it for a while. Always spend the money to get the good stuff and you'll be happier with your old car every day.

I ordered the unit above tonight, thanks!!

[Borough Essex]

Thanks Matt Harwood. I have been following this and other discussions on cut out switches and have also ordered the switch you suggest for my Essex, which still has some of its original wiring.

 

[John_Mc]

Well I received the disconnect switch this afternoon and I’m very impressed with the weight and quality of the thing.  So here’s a question that I should know the answer to, but I’d like some input.   

My ‘48 Lincoln Continental 6 volt car has a braided positive ground.  The body and engine are grounded with this wire. The round negative cable runs from the battery’s negative pole, then to the starter solenoid and then to the starter.  Which cable should be routed through the disconnect switch?  

Edited September 16, 2020 by John_Mc (see edit history)

[Guest]

The switch should go in the negative cable between the battery and the starter.

[joe_padavano]

The switch should go on the ground side of the battery. On a positive ground system put the switch in the positive cable.

[John_Mc]

12 minutes ago, Tinindian said:

The switch should go in the negative cable between the battery and the starter.

Thank you, that was I was thinking but on a negative ground system, I’ve been warned to never run the + cable through a battery disconnect switch, ONLY the negative cable.

[John_Mc]

2 minutes ago, joe_padavano said:

The switch should go on the ground side of the battery. On a positive ground system put the switch in the positive cable.

Thanks Joe, positive it will be.

[joe_padavano]

2 minutes ago, John_Mc said:

Thanks Joe, positive it will be.

 

The easy way to think about this is, if you disconnect the ground side (leaving the hot side connected) and inadvertently drop a wrench on the hot side that shorts to ground, it won't spark. On the other hand, if you disconnect the hot side (leaving the ground side connected) and drop a wrench on the hot terminal it still sparks.

[alsancle]

If you want to light your car on fire use one of these:

 

[padgett]

a) " I’ve been warned to never run the + cable through a battery disconnect " that is for modern negative ground cars with sensitive electronics/computers. That said, putting it on the ground side is better.

b) any more I use a knife switch. Have for both top and side terminal batteries.

[BearsFan315]

i did this for my 1929 Chevrolet... used it to disconnect ground, generally safest method. also figure out that i would mount the switch just under the edge of the front seat on the passenger side, and mount it from the bottom so it would barely stick up through the floor and with it being just under the edge of the seat no one should really be able to kick it. easy access as driver, plus it is right next to battery, and also hardwired in the connector for my Battery Tender, so i can flip the switch off, pull the key if so desired, then flip up the mat and open the battery lid, grab charging cable connector and plug it in. 

 

this is the switch i picked up

 

then i made new custom cables for the ground (chassis to switch, switch to battery) positive (battery to starter)

 

shot of switch poking up through the floor board under front edge of seat.

 

view of switch with ground cables connected. right side goes to frame rail, left side to negative on battery. both runs are under 18 inches !!

 

was pretty easy install, and super clean, no ONE knows it is there until i tell and show them. 

[alsancle]

This was the last one we did.  Would obviously rather have it on the floor board,  but this was not the worst location.

 

[John_Mc]

Here is mine after installation, I’m very happy about it.  Thanks to everyone 

 

[John_Mc]

[daviddarwin]

All users are protected from theft and excessive power consumption by the E-Kylin 12V Master Kill System. The Remote Control Electromagnetic Battery Switch Disconnect allowed me to triple the lifespan of my batteries. I can just press a button from inside the car to shift the trigger.

Edited March 31, 2023 by daviddarwin (see edit history)

[alsancle]

3 hours ago, daviddarwin said:

All users are protected from theft and excessive power consumption by the E-Kylin 12V Master Kill System. The Remote Control Electromagnetic Battery Switch Disconnect allowed me to triple the lifespan of my batteries. I can just press a button from inside the car to shift the trigger.

 

75% of the cars on here are 6V.   Also, if someone can start one of my cars to steal it I will hire him as a collection manager.

[TTR]

4 hours ago, alsancle said:

Also, if someone can start one of my cars to steal it I will hire him as a collection manager.

Does that include taking them from some allegedly secure indoor facility and if yes, what's the salary (+ benefits) ? 🤔

 

I tend to drive my cars and maintain their electrical circuits well enough, so leaving batteries connected rarely becomes an issue.

And if I plan to dry dock/store them for extended periods, I just simply disconnect the ground cable at the battery. 

Adding extra, unnecessary components to electrical circuit is just yet another potential cause for problems and complicates diagnostics, if any arise. 

If (vintage) car manufacturers deemed "extra" cut-off switches necessary, they would've included them.

Edited February 9, 2023 by TTR (see edit history)

[alsancle]

4 hours ago, TTR said:

Does that include taking them from some allegedly secure indoor facility and if yes, what's the salary (+ benefits) ? 🤔

 

I tend to drive my cars and maintain their electrical circuits well enough, so leaving batteries connected rarely becomes an issue.

And if I plan to dry dock/store them for extended periods, I just simply disconnect the ground cable at the battery. 

Adding extra, unnecessary components to electrical circuit is just yet another potential cause for problems and complicates diagnostics, if any arise. 

If (vintage) car manufacturers deemed "extra" cut-off switches necessary, they would've included them.

You are not wrong. I see a lot of issues with battery disconnect switches.  In fact, as we speak, I had eliminated a disconnect switch from the circuit to make sure a starter issue I’m seeing is not the switch. Although it  looks like a very heavy duty disconnect switch.

Edited February 9, 2023 by alsancle (see edit history)

[Reynard]

 

1 hour ago, TTR said:

If (vintage) car manufacturers deemed "extra" cut-off switches necessary, they would've included them.

 

Are we talking about battery drain or theft prevention? "Vintage" car manufacturers (and insurance companies) weren't as concerned about theft as are people today, nor were thefts so prevalent. My concern is preventing or at least delaying a car theft. If a car can't be started quickly without calling attention to what's happening, then the likelihood of theft is diminished. Sure, it's not going to stop the guy with a tow truck, but the guy who thinks he might be able to tell a few parts off your car before ditching it somewhere, might be delayed and frustrated enough to move on.

There are devices that sound alarms (which are usually ignored), others that can send you a remote signal (and maybe some that lock all the doors when the thief gets in and sprays him with poison gas).

My concern is leaving my collector car in a parking area during "cars and coffee", during a club meeting, or during a swap meet or conference. 

Too many old cars have been recovered sans engines, chrome pieces, wheels and tires, and even major body and interior components.

 

How many gadgets (other watch dogs and automatic weapons) do we need, or are available and effective, to protect our pride and joy?

 

P.S. I'm not moving to your safe and sound town despite what your chamber of commerce says!

[CChinn]

22 minutes ago, Reynard said:

 

 

Are we talking about battery drain or theft prevention? "Vintage" car manufacturers (and insurance companies) weren't as concerned about theft as are people today, nor were thefts so prevalent. My concern is preventing or at least delaying a car theft. If a car can't be started quickly without calling attention to what's happening, then the likelihood of theft is diminished. Sure, it's not going to stop the guy with a tow truck, but the guy who thinks he might be able to tell a few parts off your car before ditching it somewhere, might be delayed and frustrated enough to move on.

There are devices that sound alarms (which are usually ignored), others that can send you a remote signal (and maybe some that lock all the doors when the thief gets in and sprays him with poison gas).

My concern is leaving my collector car in a parking area during "cars and coffee", during a club meeting, or during a swap meet or conference. 

Too many old cars have been recovered sans engines, chrome pieces, wheels and tires, and even major body and interior components.

 

How many gadgets (other watch dogs and automatic weapons) do we need, or are available and effective, to protect our pride and joy?

 

P.S. I'm not moving to your safe and sound town despite what your chamber of commerce says!

You must live in a big city because in my relatively small rural town in central NC where I live, I have no concerns about my car being stolen when at a cars and coffee, restaurant or other areas in town. And if I did, I guess the 3 on the tree would be enough to thwart a potential thief. Grand theft auto is not a major concern in Pinehurst, NC. The status of one’s golf game is, however.😀

Edited February 9, 2023 by CChinn (see edit history)

[Reynard]

2 hours ago, CChinn said:

Grand theft auto is not a major concern in Pinehurst, NC.

 

Must be nice to live in Paradise, but I'm not moving to your safe and sound town despite what your chamber of commerce might say!

Edited February 9, 2023 by Reynard (see edit history)

[CChinn]

Lighten up. Wasn’t asking you to move here. Plus all the old timers here don’t want anymore population growth. So ok for you to stay away

[TTR]

3 hours ago, Reynard said:

 

 

Are we talking about battery drain or theft prevention? "Vintage" car manufacturers (and insurance companies) weren't as concerned about theft as are people today, nor were thefts so prevalent. My concern is preventing or at least delaying a car theft. If a car can't be started quickly without calling attention to what's happening, then the likelihood of theft is diminished. Sure, it's not going to stop the guy with a tow truck, but the guy who thinks he might be able to tell a few parts off your car before ditching it somewhere, might be delayed and frustrated enough to move on.

There are devices that sound alarms (which are usually ignored), others that can send you a remote signal (and maybe some that lock all the doors when the thief gets in and sprays him with poison gas).

My concern is leaving my collector car in a parking area during "cars and coffee", during a club meeting, or during a swap meet or conference. 

Too many old cars have been recovered sans engines, chrome pieces, wheels and tires, and even major body and interior components.

 

How many gadgets (other watch dogs and automatic weapons) do we need, or are available and effective, to protect our pride and joy?

 

P.S. I'm not moving to your safe and sound town despite what your chamber of commerce says!

Had you bothered to search some of my post history, you'd know in past 40+ years, I've driven 100s of vintage cars, owned 100+, some of them even quite rare (& valuable ?) with combined miles totaling several hundred thousand on two continents, left many of them unattended on public parking garages, lots and streets in numerous large metropolitan cities (including "sketchy" parts of them), smaller towns, rural unguarded/-gated hiking trail entrances and everything in between, but never been too worried about them getting stolen, including countless occasions when I've left them unlocked, top & windows down, often even keys in the ignition.

 

I live in one of many mid-size cities/communities surrounding greater Los Angeles area, but have lived or stayed extended periods in many big ones also, in both Europe & US.

 

But then again, I've always refused to be afraid of anything. Got done with that in my mid-teens and have lived according to my second (along with the first) signature line(s) since. 

 

So yes, I was referring to "battery drain prevention".

Edited February 10, 2023 by TTR (see edit history)

[TTR]

5 hours ago, alsancle said:

You are not wrong. I see a lot of issues with battery disconnect switches.  In fact, as we speak, I had eliminated a disconnect switch from the circuit to make sure a starter issue I’m seeing is not the switch. Although it  looks like a very heavy duty disconnect switch.

The 812SC I'm working on has same/similar switch (haphazardly) installed, presumably by same individual(s) who installed the aftermarket, electric power-steering unit (with its own 12V power source) and presumably in the process, managed to cause several electrical malfunctions on dash related components and switches (all which I'm to correct/fix while I have the car, with exception of the power steering unit, which I'm not allowed to remove ☹️). 

 

[alsancle]

24 minutes ago, TTR said:

The 812SC I'm working on has same/similar switch (haphazardly) installed, presumably by same individual(s) who installed the aftermarket, electric power-steering unit (with its own 12V power source) and presumably in the process, managed to cause several electrical malfunctions on dash related components and switches (all which I'm to correct/fix while I have the car, with exception of the power steering unit, which I'm not allowed to remove ☹️). 

 

It is a relatively light car.  I don't think it needs power steering unless you are maybe 90 years old.  Of course my dad still drove his antiques well in to his 90s.

[TTR]

15 hours ago, alsancle said:

It is a relatively light car.  I don't think it needs power steering unless you are maybe 90 years old.  Of course my dad still drove his antiques well in to his 90s.

 While I don’t think it “needs” it, I did briefly tried it (as I mentioned, it has its own power source with under dash on-off switch) when maneuvering it in-&-out of the shop and can see (or feel) some benefit for parking maneuvers, but that's it.

OTOH, I tend to believe if a person "needs" a power steering or most other add-on aftermarket modern convenience doo-dads to be able to drive/handle/enjoy a vintage car not designed or meant to have them, it's likely a wrong car for that person or vice versa.

 

But like the topic item, these add-on aftermarket power steering units can easily cause more mechanical harm for all other steering related components, especially if/when operated/used like 90+% drivers in general do, whether they’re driving their daily drivers or something antique/classic/vintage. 
 

Couple of years ago, I was working on a +/-50 year old, front engine, V12 ”Italian Stallion” model well known for its hard steering at parking speeds (only) and while they never came with power steering, one had been added to this example 25+ years earlier (at the request of the current, same owner), using a hydraulic setup from another, a little bit newer model.
The work I was performing had nothing to do with steering (except I had to improve/modify some the mounting brackets, etc, due to less than ideal belt and its adjustment alignments),  but one day in the middle of all this, the owner calls and asks me to install a power steering, one of the electric units he’s had been told by someone… 😳🙄   
Needless to say, I promptly explained the nonsense of the idea and talked him out of it (yet he apparently still loves driving the car and claims it has never in 30+ years ran or performed better).

 

 

Edited February 10, 2023 by TTR (see edit history)

[CHuDWah]

On 2/9/2023 at 7:05 PM, TTR said:

Had you bothered to search some of my post history, you'd know in past 40+ years, I've driven 100s of vintage cars, owned 100+, some of them even quite rare (& valuable ?) with combined miles totaling several hundred thousand on two continents, left many of them unattended on public parking garages, lots and streets in numerous large metropolitan cities (including "sketchy" parts of them), smaller towns, rural unguarded/-gated hiking trail entrances and everything in between, but never been too worried about them getting stolen, including countless occasions when I've left them unlocked, top & windows down, often even keys in the ignition.

 

I live in one of many mid-size cities/communities surrounding greater Los Angeles area, but have lived or stayed extended periods in many big ones also, in both Europe & US.

 

But then again, I've always refused to be afraid of anything. Got done with that in my mid-teens and have lived according to my second (along with the first) signature line(s) since. 

 

So yes, I was referring to "battery drain prevention".

 

On 2/9/2023 at 12:59 PM, TTR said:

If (vintage) car manufacturers deemed "extra" cut-off switches necessary, they would've included them.

 

And Ford did exactly that with the Electrolock on the Model A...for theft prevention. 😁

[Twisted Shifter]

On 2/9/2023 at 4:05 PM, TTR said:

 I've driven 100s of vintage cars, owned 100+, some of them even quite rare (& valuable ?) with combined miles totaling several hundred thousand on two continents, left many of them unattended on public parking garages, lots and streets in numerous large metropolitan cities (including "sketchy" parts of them), smaller towns, rural unguarded/-gated hiking trail entrances and everything in between, but never been too worried about them getting stolen, including countless occasions when I've left them unlocked, top & windows down, often even keys in the ignition.

 

I live in one of many mid-size cities/communities surrounding greater Los Angeles area, but have lived or stayed extended periods in many big ones also, in both Europe & US.

 

But then again, I've always refused to be afraid of anything. Got done with that in my mid-teens and have lived according to my second (along with the first) signature line(s) since. 

 

 

 

I guess you 're right - we'er all PARANOID-----

 

Thieves Steal Oscar Mayer Wienermobile’s Catalytic Converter

 

https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/lifestyle-buzz/thieves-steal-oscar-mayer-wienermobiles-cat/ar-AA17oW7h?ocid=mailsignout&li=BBnb7Kz

[TTR]

T.U., while I'm sorry to hear/read the catalytic converter from your O.M.W.  got stolen and assume your insurance will pay for replacement, I don't think I never claimed anyone being "PARANOID" (although some of you'er might be). 🙄