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Chassis Paint?


JV Puleo

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I recently bought an 89 Blazer. Very unusual for New England, it does not appear to have ever been used on salty roads. In fact, it only has 75,000 miles on it and was owned by an older woman for the first 30 years of it's life. Before it starts to rust, I'd like to make an effort to paint the chassis. Here's the problem though... there is no way I can take the body off. I'll have to do this job by jacking it up and working in my driveway so it seems as if rattle cans would suit the job best. It will never be a show car - in fact I bought it as a daily driver but I'd like to do everything I can to keep it as sound as I can as it isn't rusty yet. It would be easy enough to get a dozen cans of Rustoleum but would Eastwood's "rust encapsulator" be any better? Or, is there another product on the market that would do an even better job.

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I used Rustoleum. I would suggest you could use their rust converter primer and then semi-gloss block. You might even consider brushing, instead of spraying. If you do rattle can it, I've really had good luck with aluminum foil for masking off hoses, etc, on jobs like that. Nice find on the Blazer, and good luck!

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On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2020 at 3:58 PM, keiser31 said:

I use John Deere "Blitz Black". It has the right finish and is used on tractors which get tough use and sometimes have to sit outside for quite a while.

 

I'm with John on this one.

You can buy it at your local John Deere dealer in bulk or rattle cans.

Very durable, but have found even though seems to be all dry gets sturdier after a couple of months of curing.

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Edited by JACK M (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hard to do much about the gas though I wonder if nonethanol is not as damaging to paint as ethanol blends,  but Switch to Dot 5 silicone brake fluid.  No reason to run the other crap in your system anymore if you ever go in there to fix anything , Clean it out replace everything and you won't need to touch it again. 

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The most powerful chassis system for anti-corrosion and anti-chemicals and acids is the 3 coat polyurethane system. The primer consists of an aluminum pigmented moisture cured primer that was formulated for bridges in the mid-seventies. This heavy body primer does an amazing 8000 hours of salt spray, and once scratched rust will not travel beyond the scratch.

AG 111 polyester urethane was specifically designed for the New York City subway system to combat corrosion and graffiti. Polyester urethanes are the most expensive but they offer maximum chemical and acid resistance..

In 1988 I introduced these coatings to the hobby under the master coat brand and set up for many years in the white field at Hershey. There are other brands in the marine trades that offer these types of coating systems or derivatives thereof. I hope my knowledge of industrial coatings might be helpful to other people that are preservationists.I have since retired I hope I have not broke any forum rules by mentioning any brand names. Pat

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