Interior progress this weekend

[RockinRiviDad]

3 minutes ago, TheOldMan said:

On my '63 I just started at the back of the trim and used a wood chisel to start the trim sliding off the ends. Then I used the chisel to pry it up off the center section.

 

Beware when using this process.
 

Old man, U may have gotten lucky. Congrats. But the problem I’ve seen with this process is that the “death grip” that I mentioned that the tabs have on the trim can/will bend your trim slightly at the contact area. Then when u go to reinstall it the trim won’t engage the tab like it once did. 

[XframeFX]

Got It! - Thanks for your help and posting those images.

What I was missing was tapping the end pieces off after lifting the front edge up. Re-reading the instructions for doing the rear quarter panels, it didn't mention tapping but it did say slide the end piece off. I missed that word. But in my attempts, I did try and they do not slide off. The operative word is Tap it off. Also, starting with an end piece is a must followed by the other end piece in order to tap off the long pieces part-way length wise, then slide/pull off by hand.

 

So, for re-installation of the long pieces, do I have to clip them head-on in position or, a combination of clipping and sliding? It probably depends on how thick the new veneer is.

 

I can pick up this stuff locally - .028" Walnut veneer. Appears more suited for surfaces with contours. Perhaps keep looking for flat sheets.

[RockinRiviDad]

I can’t speak for what thickness veneer u will need. I found it simpler to order a kit from any of the previous vendors mentioned. They are already the right thickness

 

I personally did not “slide” my trim back on. I was afraid to scratch my veneer. So I pushed them head on by hand until I heard the “click” of the tab engaging the trim edge. I did need a gentle “tap” to get them back on at a couple spots. 

[71GS]

Door panels coming together. Should have the armrest bases first of the week. They had some cracks(don’t they all?) I repaired and being painted now. 

Couldn't wait to post my little custom touch to the veneered panels. Never been real crazy about the oval emblem and like a subtle customization. These are ‘64 glove box door emblems. I love it, what do you all think? Still planning on replacing the stripes. 

Brian

Edited April 26, 2020 by 71GS (see edit history)

[71GS]

Washed the car and took a good cruise for the first time since October. I got the fuel gauge working too. Pulled the bezel and gauge, found there was overspray on the gauge mount metal contacts from when I refinished the cluster housing. Cleaned it off with a small wire brush, reassembled and working perfectly. Made my day.

 

[RockinRiviDad]

Great custom detail 👍🏼. I love the wood grain on your veneer too 👍🏼

[71GS]

Thanks David 

[XframeFX]

My My Brian! Aren't you one for detail. You're the one I want to buy a car from. I see the exterior, nice stance! Seafoam?

 

I had a plan which was minimal detail but I deviated from that. Went the extra mile for functionality and resto-mod. I considered refinishing the interior of the instrument cluster with something electro-luminescent. But switching to 4- LED 194 lighting seemed to do the trick. Your dash lights dim?

I stripped the door veneer panels this PM Came off in 1-piece. Started scraping, then used Goof-Off - not a chance and nasty stuff. Windy outside, switched to "Aircraft Stripper" Nasty too but not as bad as Goof-Off. Quick work with the latter. Instructions say "Not for Airframes"!

Now to source replacement veneer or laminate for the doors only. The rear quarters are in. Moving forward.

 

Yes, All my armrests have a crack. I have dead-ringer colour match SEM spray bomb which I considered for the console which was already matching. I thought of my original plan of minimal detail and that console gave me so much grieve - no paint.

For the cracked armrests, using epoxy?

 

John B.

[71GS]

3 hours ago, XframeFX said:

My My Brian! Aren't you one for detail. You're the one I want to buy a car from. I see the exterior, nice stance! Seafoam?

 

I had a plan which was minimal detail but I deviated from that. Went the extra mile for functionality and resto-mod. I considered refinishing the interior of the instrument cluster with something electro-luminescent. But switching to 4- LED 194 lighting seemed to do the trick. Your dash lights dim?

I stripped the door veneer panels this PM Came off in 1-piece. Started scraping, then used Goof-Off - not a chance and nasty stuff. Windy outside, switched to "Aircraft Stripper" Nasty too but not as bad as Goof-Off. Quick work with the latter. Instructions say "Not for Airframes"!

Now to source replacement veneer or laminate for the doors only. The rear quarters are in. Moving forward.

 

Yes, All my armrests have a crack. I have dead-ringer colour match SEM spray bomb which I considered for the console which was already matching. I thought of my original plan of minimal detail and that console gave me so much grieve - no paint.

For the cracked armrests, using epoxy?

 

John B.

Hey John, thanks. I love a good resto mod, heck I love them all.😁 Color is turquoise mist, code K. I definitely love the led’s, big improvement, yes they dim. Your correct on the factory adhesive.its kind of nasty.  I found that acetone works great to remove it and leaves surface clean. Use it with a scotch bright pad. 

I V’d out the cracks in the armrest bases with a pencil grinder and roughed up around it with sand paper. Both sides, and used good old jb weld. It worked and seems strong. It is pretty difficult to block sand FYI. I wanted them straight so I bodyworked,primed, blocked them out prior to paint. I’ve used sem trim black before and liked it. Good product. Keep going 👍👍

[cjp69]

15 hours ago, XframeFX said:

My My Brian! Aren't you one for detail. You're the one I want to buy a car from. I see the exterior, nice stance! Seafoam?

 

I had a plan which was minimal detail but I deviated from that. Went the extra mile for functionality and resto-mod. I considered refinishing the interior of the instrument cluster with something electro-luminescent. But switching to 4- LED 194 lighting seemed to do the trick. Your dash lights dim?

I stripped the door veneer panels this PM Came off in 1-piece. Started scraping, then used Goof-Off - not a chance and nasty stuff. Windy outside, switched to "Aircraft Stripper" Nasty too but not as bad as Goof-Off. Quick work with the latter. Instructions say "Not for Airframes"!

Now to source replacement veneer or laminate for the doors only. The rear quarters are in. Moving forward.

 

Yes, All my armrests have a crack. I have dead-ringer colour match SEM spray bomb which I considered for the console which was already matching. I thought of my original plan of minimal detail and that console gave me so much grieve - no paint.

For the cracked armrests, using epoxy?

 

John B.

John, you are right, Brian is the guy you want to buy a car from!  Here are a couple of custom touches he did to his 71 that I now own. 

[71GS]

8 hours ago, cjp69 said:

John, you are right, Brian is the guy you want to buy a car from!  Here are a couple of custom touches he did to his 71 that I now own. 

Hey Chris, thanks!  I always felt like that is the way it should have come from the factory. 😎 Matches the dash. My wife just saw those pics and said, “oh I loved that one, kinda miss it.” Were both glad it’s in such good hands. Definitely the most comfortable car I ever had and never failed to get a compliment every time we took it out. Thanks for taking care of it. 

Brian

Edited April 28, 2020 by 71GS (see edit history)

[XframeFX]

Taste & Technique goes a long way. Nice detail. Quite often, the slow approach is best if you don't have a plan or realize your plan wasn't that great while you're going about it.

With all the windshield time I've done over the years, I do trial & error in my head. When I get home, a little (or a lot) of online research and get to work.

 

I see Brian's old ride is safe out on the 'wet coast' now! Those are comfortable rides. But, your '65 GS, oh so nice Chris!

 

This Covid thing finally has me focusing on my Riv. A low priority for too long. A little everyday is key. Although upsetting the balance with my other half a bit, not impressed. "Just buy a new car"!

 

Big job tonight was changing all 6 of #90 (1142) courtesy lights to 300 Lumen COB style warm LEDs. Hard work that plug 'n play! Popular with RV'ers, they buy more than just 6!

 

John B.

[PWB]

On 4/25/2020 at 10:40 PM, 71GS said:

Door panels coming together. Should have the armrest bases first of the week. They had some cracks(don’t they all?) I repaired and being painted now. 

Couldn't wait to post my little custom touch to the veneered panels. Never been real crazy about the oval emblem and like a subtle customization. These are ‘64 glove box door emblems. I love it, what do you all think? Still planning on replacing the stripes. 

Brian

 

 

 

Gorgeous.

Is that Crossfire Mahogany???

 

[71GS]

2 hours ago, PWB said:

 

Gorgeous.

Is that Crossfire Mahogany???

 

Thanks Paul, no it’s walnut with some nice figuring. Oil finish, no stain. 👍

[71GS]

Drivers side buttoned up tonight 

 

[1965rivgs]

1 hour ago, 71GS said:

Thanks Paul, no it’s walnut with some nice figuring. Oil finish, no stain. 👍

  That`s quarter sawn...doesnt show up that way in walnut very often but the vertical figuring shows up often in oak and sometimes cherry...the figuring is called "medullary rays". Brian, you have a couple of choice cuts of walnut! Did you obtain these panels from Bob Scanlan?

Tom

[71GS]

11 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

  That`s quarter sawn...doesnt show up that way in walnut very often but the vertical figuring shows up often in oak and sometimes cherry...the figuring is called "medullary rays". Brian, you have a couple of choice cuts of walnut! Did you obtain these panels from Bob Scanlan?

Tom

Hi Tom, thank you. no, the veneer came from veneersupplies.com. They carry some pretty nice stuff. You can pick the actual piece you want. I’ve used them a couple times and they’re great to work with. 

Edited April 30, 2020 by 71GS (see edit history)

[71GS]

My rear console light was on when I got to the garage today. It won’t turn off with the switch or closing the door. I assume the switch itself is worn. Anyone ever mess with these? Wondering if it could be rebuilt?

[1965rivgs]

21 minutes ago, 71GS said:

My rear console light was on when I got to the garage today. It won’t turn off with the switch or closing the door. I assume the switch itself is worn. Anyone ever mess with these? Wondering if it could be rebuilt?

Did you try closing the door after you manipulated the switch at the rear of the console? The switch provides a ground but the door jamb switch does also. I believe even if you had the switch in the :off: position and the door was open the light would stay illuminated?

Tom

[71GS]

10 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

Did you try closing the door after you manipulated the switch at the rear of the console? The switch provides a ground but the door jamb switch does also. I believe even if you had the switch in the :off: position and the door was open the light would stay illuminated?

Tom

Tom, that was my first thought. I tried all the switch positions while in the car with the door closed. It stayed on the entire time. All the other lights work normal. Off of the door switches( freshly rebuilt by Wolfgang) and checked the headlight switch also. No other light is staying on. 
Any suggestions are appreciated 

[RockinRiviDad]

I have crappy door jamb switches that I was considering sending to Wolfgang. I’ve opened mine up to try & rebuild them myself & I couldn’t get them right. My lights were doing what u are describing your lights are doing. 
 

U might have a faulty rebuilt switch 🤷🏻‍♂️. For this reason, a little voice in my head keeps reminding me that the brand new evil-bay switches might be a better option

[Riviera63]

2 hours ago, RockinRiviDad said:

I have crappy door jamb switches that I was considering sending to Wolfgang. I’ve opened mine up to try & rebuild them myself & I couldn’t get them right. My lights were doing what u are describing your lights are doing. 
 

U might have a faulty rebuilt switch 🤷🏻‍♂️. For this reason, a little voice in my head keeps reminding me that the brand new evil-bay switches might be a better option

 

These switches were a problem from day one. If you want them fixed and the problem solved, send them to Wolfgang. He stands behind his work and he does it right. I bought 2 NOS switches for my car. A year later they weren't working correctly. They went to Wolfgang. No problems since. For $30 you can have 2 working switches (that includes postage back to you). This is a lot cheaper than 2 new switches that will fail down the road and have to go to Wolfgang anyway.

 

Bill

[1965rivgs]

7 hours ago, 71GS said:

Tom, that was my first thought. I tried all the switch positions while in the car with the door closed. It stayed on the entire time. All the other lights work normal. Off of the door switches( freshly rebuilt by Wolfgang) and checked the headlight switch also. No other light is staying on. 
Any suggestions are appreciated 

  Pull both switches out of and clear of the body. Doing so will eliminate the switches as a source of ground. If your console light is still illuminated it is finding a ground somewhere beside the door jamb switches. If your light goes out, determine which switch is providing ground by reinstalling and you will be on your way to a solution. I`m betting it`s something beside Wolfgang`s switch, I`ve used many with no issues, but their design was lacking from the start...

  I had a similar problem once on a `64 Starfire...when I began working on the courtesy lights I found a blown fuse and someone had installed single contact bulbs where there should have been double contact bulbs. I installed the proper bulbs and changed out the blown fuse. All lights worked properly except for one of the sail panel lights. Because it was late Sunday afternoon when I discovered I didnt have enough of the proper bulbs on hand I went to one of the big box auto parts stores because they were the only store that was open....what I found was the bulb that stayed illuminated was defective...instead of the ground side of the filament wired to the second terminal in the base of the bulb it was wired to the base itself, as a single contact bulb would be...hecho en China

Tom

[71GS]

Thanks, I will pull the jamb switches and try that. I’m doubting it is them too but will be a good place to start. Could it possibly just affect the one lamp? I would think they all would stay on🤷🏻‍♂️ That is why I was suspecting the console switch itself.?

THANK YOU ALL

[RivNut]

There are three wires on the door jamb switch, one each for three separate circuits.  Three separate circuits each have their own switch - the headlight switch turned all the way to the left, the courtesy light switch under the dash panel, and the switch at the rear of the console.  The rear console lamp stands alone. The courtesy lamp switch under the dash controls the footwell lamps and the lamp above the glove box.  That would leave the sail panel lamps for the headlight switch.  Pulling the door jamb switches separately will get you started on the right path. If a wire has come off a door jamb switch and is contacting the body, you'll have a light that stays on.

Edited April 30, 2020 by RivNut
Gord clued me in (see edit history)

[71GS]

6 hours ago, RivNut said:

There are three wires on the door jamb switch, one each for three separate circuits.  Three separate circuits each have their own switch - the headlight switch turned all the way to the left, the courtesy light switch under the dash panel, and the switch at the rear of the console.  The rear console lamp stands alone. The courtesy lamp switch under the dash controls the footwell lamps and the lamp above the glove box.  That would leave the sail panel lamps for the headlight switch.  Pulling the door jamb switches separately will get you started on the right path. If a wire has come off a door jamb switch and is contacting the body, you'll have a light that stays on.

Great, thanks for the additional info Ed. You all are great!

New Riview arrived today 👍

[71GS]

Pulled the jamb switches, no change. Rear console light still on. Opened and removed the rear ashtray, pushed around on the ground wire to switch and the socket, moved the switch back and forth. At one point it went out ( switch lever to driver side, doors are closed) and then you could tell it was slightly lit. Switch to right side, full bright, back to left, dim.. then it stayed on again no matter the position. Interestingly, I noticed one of the led’s was out.. there is probably 8 tiny leds around the perimeter and 4 in the center of the bulb. It actually looks a little burnt there Inside, where the one wasn’t lit anymore. Tried a regular bulb, no change. Sure seems like the rear switch itself to me but wiring and electrical stuff is NOT my forte. 

Any thoughts or suggestions to try?

thanks Brian

[crowvet]

26 minutes ago, 71GS said:

Pulled the jamb switches, no change. Rear console light still on. Opened and removed the rear ashtray, pushed around on the ground wire to switch and the socket, moved the switch back and forth. At one point it went out ( switch lever to driver side, doors are closed) and then you could tell it was slightly lit. Switch to right side, full bright, back to left, dim.. then it stayed on again no matter the position. Interestingly, I noticed one of the led’s was out.. there is probably 8 tiny leds around the perimeter and 4 in the center of the bulb. It actually looks a little burnt there Inside, where the one wasn’t lit anymore. Tried a regular bulb, no change. Sure seems like the rear switch itself to me but wiring and electrical stuff is NOT my forte. 

Any thoughts or suggestions to try?

thanks Brian

Try spraying some electric motor cleaner in the switch, and the aggressively work it on and off. Could be hard grease and copper filings from the contacts creating a electrical path. If so this will fix it.  

[71GS]

Daryle, I’ll try that. Definitely easier than getting the assembly out of the console. 

[XframeFX]

I'm finding it hilarious we're all encountering the similar things being maybe 24 hours apart!

I spent about 3 hours last weekend on my sail panel lights. They worked before installation of the console. Now everything worked including the rear console light except the sail panel lights. I went as far as  identifying which pin was +Vdc. I'm amazed it took so long. Riviera luck. It was a blown fuse. Inserting a double bayonet light with the door open could cause a momentary short and blow the fuse. I now know to close the doors when changing 1142 lights.

 

The rear console light is also an 1142. I tested the switch when changing the lens because it looked crude even for 1963. I tested 3 for open and closed with a multi-meter and they all worked.

 

The image shows the underside in the "ON" position (1963 but '65 the same). If the light is staying ON regardless of the position, it must be the switch providing a ground no matter what..

With the light socket out the reflector and the light still illuminated with all doors closed and dimmer switch open and console switch to the Driver's side (open), try this;

Try to curl your finger around the bottom of the reflector and apply downward pressure on the copper tab with the dimple in it. Tough to do because of the astray door on the '65s. This should break the ground connection and the light should go out. If so, playing with switch positions while deflecting that tab might get it to turn off. Not too much as it will not bounce back if bent too far. If you can't get to that tab, try deflecting the copper spade  connector downwards while sliding the switch

What a crude switch!

John B.

[71GS]

Thanks John , I’ll give it a try. Supposed to rain tomorrow. It was beautiful here today so I disconnected it and put 100 miles on it 😁😁

[71GS]

I did manage to sand and polish the last of the armrest base pieces & got the passenger side installed. Did some family cruising the rest of the day. 

That’s Dads coupe and garage where I’ve been hiding out all winter. Need to order some floormats and get the console light fixed next. 

Edited May 3, 2020 by 71GS (see edit history)

[steelman]

Red car looks sweet too! Is it a 36?

[cjp69]

Nice selfie Brian!

[71GS]

12 hours ago, steelman said:

Red car looks sweet too! Is it a 36?

Yep 36, he had one when he was a kid. Built that one about 8 years ago. He and mom drive it everywhere. 

 

“Nice  selfie Brian”

Chris, that’s when you know your done polishing. 🤣

 

[71GS]

On 5/2/2020 at 10:27 PM, XframeFX said:

Try to curl your finger around the bottom of the reflector and apply downward pressure on the copper tab with the dimple in it

John, got around to this today and it worked. So far so good. Working normal now. Thanks, Brian

[71GS]

Went ahead and tried another set of Cars mats. They are nice, hopefully no more weird yellow film with these. 

Brian

[XframeFX]

Brian, your last image showing your mats, I noticed your seat belt retractor. I spent way too much on an online purchase and received another un-usable part, for the front seat anyway. The rears had to be shortened. People selling junk with images showing the seat belts latched!

I wonder what year GMs had those seat-belts? Of course I need RED items.

With the cover off, I wonder how they attach to the anchors? No Mods?

Oh, those cool white LEDs really set off the Tri-Shield on your new mats!

John B.

[71GS]

22 hours ago, XframeFX said:

Brian, your last image showing your mats, I noticed your seat belt retractor. I spent way too much on an online purchase and received another un-usable part, for the front seat anyway. The rears had to be shortened. People selling junk with images showing the seat belts latched!

I wonder what year GMs had those seat-belts? Of course I need RED items.

With the cover off, I wonder how they attach to the anchors? No Mods?

Oh, those cool white LEDs really set off the Tri-Shield on your new mats!

John B.

Hey John, 

not sure I’m following your question. As far as I know mine are original. I did have the retractors out and repainted the covers as they were scuffed up. Not sure, but I believe that they varied a bit on the first gen cars. I know the buckles do. I believe my old 64 had different style retractors, but that was 25 years ago🤷🏻‍♂️

Im happy with the he mats. Hopefully they will stay this way. 

[telriv]

My '64 Riv. had a production date of 12D & came with NO seat belt covers. ONLY the retracters & they had Oldsmobile logo on the Buckle.

I've owned this Riv. since new.

 

Tom T.