Sloth Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 (edited) 41 minutes ago, alsfarms said: Thanks Harm and Anna, I hope your New years Celebration was just what you wanted. We had a quite party this year, but a nice time. On the mounting question. Are you going to leave the tonneau permanently attached or design it to be removable? Al Hi Al, I designed it, to be removable. Our Celebration was very quiet, as the whole northern part of the Netherlands was covered in a very thick fog. Code Red (severe weather) was issued by the authorities. Many car accidents, with a lot of wounded people and some fatalities. At some parts, you could not see whats 30 feet in front of you. Regards, Harm Edited January 1, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Hello Harm, Whereas you plan to be able to remove and install a roadster type deck in the place of the tonneau, I would fabricate four brackets and maybe six (two for each side front and back and one each for each side of the rear door for stability if you see the need. I would mount and leave these brackets permanently attached to the bottom of the tonneau. When tonneau is removed I would use the same holes to mount the roadster deck in place (access may be a serious consideration as I am not sure how you plan to built the roadster deck). If you have an access door for storage while running as a roadster, no issue as you would be able to access through the door. Regards, Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 2, 2020 Author Share Posted January 2, 2020 Last days I glued the side panels of the toneau. I laminated both of them from flexible plywood 9/32" thick each, total thickness 9/16". Today I cut out the toneau panels. I am happy with them, no splits in the wood caused by bending at a small radius. Wooden form for left side of toneau panel (outside view). This side will be used for forming the flexible plywood. Wooden form for toneau side panel, left side (inside view). Left side toneau panel Right side of toneau panel Furthermore, I started with cutting out the seat bases, make them from 1" thick ash. Regards, Harm 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 You are certainly making good progress. I am not at this time able to keep up with you! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Hi Harm, I think your method of bending the plywood with the jig you made is very clever. I have often wondered how plywood was bent. I assumed you had to glue it up in much thinner sections into a perfectly made mould. Mike (a metalwork man!) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Mike Macartney said: Hi Harm, I think your method of bending the plywood with the jig you made is very clever. I have often wondered how plywood was bent. I assumed you had to glue it up in much thinner sections into a perfectly made mould. Mike (a metalwork man!) Good morning Mike, Thank you. Well, to be honest, several years ago I thought the same. So I made a perfect mold, and used 1/16" aircraft quality triplex, which is expensive stuff. Then I ran into problems, I had to laminate 10 layers. The glue began to set after I had laminated 5 layers, still 5 layers left to do, long story short, it very soon it became a huge and expensive mess. After a while, I spoke with an older gentlemen who used to build horse drawn coaches. He teached me what kind of flexible triplex to use and how to make simple molds for one time use, since then no scrap anymore, and no time consuming perfect molds to build.... just simple molds who are dimensional correct and with the right edges. When you laminate two or three layers of 9/32" (7 mm) flexible triplex, the end result is very stiff and keeps its form, after the glue hardens no form adjustments are possible. (for the Cleveland toneau and front seat, I used two layers). Regards, Harm 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Hello Harm, I am anxious to see , once again, how you are going to build the rear corners of your tonneau and the back panel. TI me this is a very important structural part of the body as each side is not structurally tied to the other side yet will potentially have someone sitting in it so it should be put together very soundly. At least that is my take on the rear tonneau. Your bending process is in fact very clever as per comments by Mike, (who is also a very clever fellow). I may have missed something but describe your method for mixing and applying the glue to a large panel quickly and avoiding the set-up time limit of the glue. Is the glue in powder form so you can mix only what you need at any given time? Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 21 hours ago, Sloth said: Good morning Mike, Thank you. Well, to be honest, several years ago I thought the same. So I made a perfect mold, Many thanks Harm for such an excellent explanation. The "huge expensive mess" reminded me of my first ever attempt at making a glass fibre hardtop for a car back in 1970. I came back the next morning to find, a half gone off sticky heap of glass mat and resin, it put me off GRP for some time. Even your 'simple mold' must take a lot of thought in where to place the wood for the mold and how the edges should be. Another good example of the skill and experience of some of these old coach builders and wheelwrights who learnt their trades over many years. Thank you again Harm for your interesting posts and answers to my questions. Best regards Mike 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 On 1/3/2020 at 5:10 PM, alsfarms said: Hello Harm, I am anxious to see , once again, how you are going to build the rear corners of your tonneau and the back panel. TI me this is a very important structural part of the body as each side is not structurally tied to the other side yet will potentially have someone sitting in it so it should be put together very soundly. At least that is my take on the rear tonneau. Your bending process is in fact very clever as per comments by Mike, (who is also a very clever fellow). I may have missed something but describe your method for mixing and applying the glue to a large panel quickly and avoiding the set-up time limit of the glue. Is the glue in powder form so you can mix only what you need at any given time? Al Hello Al, The rear corners of the tonneau will be build on the same way as the corners of the front seat. The coming days I will continue with the building process, so you can expect some pictures, of the progress. Furthermore, to increase the structural strength of the tonneau seat back and side panels, I will add some steel brackets. Glue: in earlier days I used phenol resorcinol formaldehyde glue, wonderful stuff, but I became very allergic to it. Instead, I use Bostik PK 75, a pasty polyurethane stuff, dispensed from a tube. It does not foam as regular polyurethane. One has about 5 minutes to apply it, after that time it starts slowly to set. Fully hardened in about 24 hour. What I do is making sure that every thing needed is ready, and lays neatly within reach on a flat surface. Mold is clean and ready, clamping boards clean and ready, and so on. Than I start to put the glue in thick rolls on the surface of one board and use a large putty knife ( 5" width) to spread it very fast and evenly on the board. Then put the board on the mold, put the other board on it (first time right, no adjustment possible) and clamp everything together. Today I did a little experiment, got the whole procedure fixed within 4 minutes and 20 seconds . The dimensions of the boards are 4' 2" x 2' each. One advantage of the PK 75, no extreme clamping force is needed. But one warning, be careful with this glue, it sticks on everything and removing is a quiet a chore😡 (some experiences in life I can live without, this was one of them...). Regards, Harm 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Hello harm, It is my guess that you have a "mail" and "female" to your glue up jig in order to evenly push those pieces to be glued into place and hold them until the glue is set? Do you leave the panel to be glued in place until dry or just set? The last time I did serious any gluing and wood work, I used a powder glue that was brushable . I do not recall what it was but I seem to recall that it was a marine type glue. Does your caulking gun glue spread nicely with the 5" trowel? How much pressure do you use to spread out the glue? Do you end up with a coating of glue 1/32" thick for your glue up? I ask these rather simply questions as I have a very similar building process in my future, hopefully sooner than later. None of us are getting any younger! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 1 hour ago, alsfarms said: I ask these rather simply questions as I have a very similar building process in my future, hopefully sooner than later. Al, do you have posts on your projects? I have been looking, but I only see the occasional Locomobile post, am I missing your main postings on the other vehicles? Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Mike..... PM sent Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Thanks Al, I have now replied to your PM. I had forgotten all about using the PM - sorry Harm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 4 hours ago, alsfarms said: Hello harm, It is my guess that you have a "mail" and "female" to your glue up jig in order to evenly push those pieces to be glued into place and hold them until the glue is set? Do you leave the panel to be glued in place until dry or just set? The last time I did serious any gluing and wood work, I used a powder glue that was brushable . I do not recall what it was but I seem to recall that it was a marine type glue. Does your caulking gun glue spread nicely with the 5" trowel? How much pressure do you use to spread out the glue? Do you end up with a coating of glue 1/32" thick for your glue up? I ask these rather simply questions as I have a very similar building process in my future, hopefully sooner than later. None of us are getting any younger! Al Hello Al, Thursday I will show with pictures how I did it (that is much easier explaining how the process looks like). Regards, Harm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) Today, not much work done on the Cleveland toneau. This morning I received a box with led lamps. Started replacing the older fluorescent shop lamps with led lamps. Not a difficult task, but there are 12 double armatures in the shop, hanging 12 feet high 😓. Further more, I have to remove the starter and the electronic load from the existing armature, and replace these by two wires, not difficult, but time consuming. But it has the advantage that I can leave the armature in place. As the shop momentarily is a big mess (building the Cleveland body) , it takes time to re shuffle every thing so I can reach the armatures. The reason for the replacement is an easy one. First, as I am getting older (but not much wiser 😇), I need light, lots of it! After my retirement, I am roughly 7 hours a day in the shop, that means 7 times 24 lights times 36 Watt equals to 6 kWh a day. Using led lights it will decrease to about 2.5 kWh. Electrical power is $ 0.285 per kWh, so I save $ 1.00 a day. Replacing just one fluorescent lamp cost $ 9.50 each, so within 8 months they have payed for themselves (mathematically correct, but never the less, I think it will be a year, which is OK). Regards, Harm Edited January 6, 2020 by Sloth (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 2 hours ago, Mike Macartney said: Thanks Al, I have now replied to your PM. I had forgotten all about using the PM - sorry Harm. Hello Mike, No problem. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) As promised, hereby step by step, how I made the side boards of the tonneau. The process worked for me, but I am not responsible for etc etc., and can not held liable for etc.etc., nor can held liable any member of my household, nor can held liable my shop cats....😁 I used the designation Mold, but maybe it should be named Rig or Die, or?? Side boards, made of 1" plywood Clamping board number 1, fixed with sturdy screws on the side boards Side view of above picture Other clamping boards fixed on the side boards (I used scrap 1" plywood I had lying around)) Put some battens on the sides, made of 1" plywood used later on for clamping and screwing the upper side of the rig. Detail of same as above picture Put on first layer of flexible plywood (this is just for show I used a piece of scrap plywood) Put on the glue evenly, I used a 5" putty knife for spreading the glue, no slouching here, work fast. If done, put on the second layer of plywood. Do it the first time right, afterwards no adjustments possible. Put on the upper (press) boards, again I used 1" plywood Clamping and fastening the upper (press boards) by screws and clamps. I used the clamps for slowly building up the pressure on the flexible plywood. Just for showing how everything worked out, I put a finished sideboard with the scrap part in the mold. And then after a 24 hour curing time and some sawing and sanding, you have this! For building the other side of the touneau side boards, just swap the mold side boards, and repeat all the steps, as described above. No need for making two opposite molds. Further not much to add. Just one thing, make the mold, at least 2 inches larger on all sides and the side boards too. You need some extra for adjustment purposes, needed when you put the sides on the base seat boards. If you have any questions about this process, don't hesitate ask them. Regards, Harm Edited January 8, 2020 by Sloth Corrected text and pictures (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Hello Harm, I was in hot stand-by to see this posting! You did, in fact, answer many of my questions regarding your laminating procedure. One thing I noticed and had not thought about was that you put a layer in your mold that was just to support the bottom piece to be glued, then glue and then add the top piece to be bent. Also.... 🙂 I noticed the effect, of one of you past learning curves, regarding the use of the glue you have chosen, beware of dripping glue! I am sure you would sooner sacrifice an old sheet then need to dig dried glue off your floor and table! 🙂 I do have a couple of comments and questions. Which way do you lay the wood grain for the best results for your laminating/bending? I was also impressed that you would not even let your shop cats take any credit for this fine example of home style wood bending/laminating! :-). How many support brackets do you intend to use to stiffen these sides to the body base for rigidity? Thanks for this posting!! Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) Hello Al, Indeed you are right on the glue spilling. What I forgot to mention, I covered the mold with the paper stuff, used by plasterers to protect the floor when plastering walls etc. Putting on the glue when the board is on the mold: I don't like manipulating a 4 feet by 2 feet board with fresh glue on one side. I know what happens when a buttered slice of bread falls down... The glue I use, does not drip much , it has a buttery consistence. Its a bit harder to spread than other more fluid kinds of glue, but at least I am not allergic for this glue. The wood grain: I used the kind of flexible plywood with the outer grains ran vertical ( side boards standing vertical). It is defined by the horizontal wave in the side board. I think I will use 3 brackets on each side to stiffen the sides. One halfway the side board, one at the corner and one at the doorpost. Regards, Harm Edited January 8, 2020 by Sloth corrected spelling errors (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 49 minutes ago, Sloth said: The process worked for me, but I am not responsible for etc etc., and can not held liable for etc.etc., nor can held liable any member of my household, nor can held liable my shop cats....😁 Harm, I had forgotten that we are posting on an American site and that we may be sued for giving advice. . . . It may make our posts rather long if we keep having to repeat the above each time we mention something!. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Having co-authored two books on the disassembly and reassembly of 19th and early 20th century firearms I'm something of an expert at wording this sort of thing. The simple answer is you never say "do this...etc." You say "I did this etc." Then, if someone makes a hash of it it's their responsibility. That said, I don't think this is an application where that sort of liability is a problem. Harm's description above is perfect...he's sharing what he did not telling us how we should do it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Joe, my post was written 'tongue in cheek'. Although, I do agree with your "I did this etc." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) Today, I continued building the tonneau seats. Boy, are these things time consuming! Slots into the seat base and small wooden plates. I made 4 slots about 5/8"deep and 3 1/2"long (used a router with 1/4" router bit) into the seat base and the side boards. Into the slots I will glue small strong wooden plates, vertical grain for strength. If the side board is dimensional OK and everything fits well, the side board slits over the wooden plates (with some glue) and all is fixed. The rear post in the rough Making the rear posts took a lot of time (most time goes into measuring, just to get it dimensional right and they must look right). Dimension of wood before processing 3 1/2" x 3 1/2". First try, putting the rear board, rear post and side board together. Not to bad I think Detail of the rear corner Inside view, rear post needs more fitting work done on it. Underside must be parallel to the seat board. That is my report for today. Next few days, Anna and I have some social obligations. So I guess I can 't do much on the Cleveland 😢. Regards, Harm Edited January 9, 2020 by Sloth Corrected sentence (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Ok Harm, You are sure leading a great productive "charge" on your Cleveland body building project! Thanks for posting ,as I am getting some good ideas from your craftsmanship that I will use when I build in the future. We are now really starting to see your Cleveland! Now, go have fun with Anna.... Al 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Harm, How was your social events of the weekend? We are having some very winter like weather here in the US mountain west. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Moskowitz Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Little late in seeing this post. We had a 1903 Cleveland Rear Entrance Tonneau shown for many years in AACA. It was owned by Roger Weiss of Yorkville, Illinois. I used to show my Curved Dash Olds next to him at many shows. I believe I heard a few years ago that Roger passed away. In any event, I am not sure where the car is today but there is a fully restored example somewhere. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 (edited) Hello Steve, Roger has, in the past, provided some valuable help but I heard the same news regarding him, sadly. If someone here may know of the whereabouts of the 1903 Cleveland that Roger owned, share some current information here as a help to Harm and his project. Al Edited January 13, 2020 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 2 hours ago, alsfarms said: Harm, How was your social events of the weekend? We are having some very winter like weather here in the US mountain west. Al Hello Al, We had a very nice weekend, but got way to late to bed. We are a member of the neighborhood association (taking care of each other and providing help were needed etc.), twice a year we have a celebration. That is a Midsummer outing and the New Years celebration. This year the board had decided we should have a "cycling diner". Some people cook the appetizer, others cook the main course and some cook the desert. Anna and I cooked a main course for 6 neighbors (Boeuf Bourguignon). Saturday afternoon we were ready. So at Saturday evening 6 o' clock , we went on our bikes to the neighbors (1 mile away) who served the appetizer. Then back to our home for the main course, then off we went for the desert (2 miles away). After that, we all gathered at the Inn on the end of our street (2 miles away). Here we all started the well wishing and talking about the latest events in the neighborhood (a lot of gossip 😁). So Anna and I went to bed early Sunday morning. Yesterday was not a good day.... 🥴 we are getting to old for this kind of bed time. The weather over here is mild, a lot of rain and windy, temperature about 48 F. No frost or snow in sight, at least not for the coming 14 days. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 2 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said: Little late in seeing this post. We had a 1903 Cleveland Rear Entrance Tonneau shown for many years in AACA. It was owned by Roger Weiss of Yorkville, Illinois. I used to show my Curved Dash Olds next to him at many shows. I believe I heard a few years ago that Roger passed away. In any event, I am not sure where the car is today but there is a fully restored example somewhere. Hello Steve, Thank you for your post. Until a few years ago, I had regular contact with Roger. But since 4 years, I didn't got reply's to my questions. So I expected something had happened. Roger has helped me a lot with the answers, regarding restoring my Cleveland. He wrote that he knew for a long time, that my Cleveland existed, but as he wrote to me, "no one in his right mind would take this on 😄 ". Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 Monday and today, I got the side and rear boards of the tonneau done. Also fitted the rear posts, a very time consuming affair. Today made the rear door, but can not finish it, because I am waiting for the hinges and latch. I ordered the brass hinges at the Restoration Supply Company (no. BRA314). Gentlemen, I need some help: around the edges of the body, a molding of a 1/2 round piece of ??? is used. What kind of material is used for that application. I must admit, I have no idea and can't find anything about it on the Web. Furthermore, it seems to me that 1/2 round material is not easy to bend in one direction (laying flat), the other direction seems no problem. Please be so kind, to let me know what your thoughts are about this. View of passengers side tonneau seat View of drivers side tonneau seat View of rear entrance door Rear view of entrance door I am nearing the end of the body building. Jobs left to do, making the molding under the front seat to the dash board, mounting the slats in the front seat. Making floor boards, for the front seat and the tonneau. Finishing the tounneau seat boards. Gluing and mounting the whole tonneau together (its now temporarily fixed by screws). Making some brackets for the tonneau, and making some brackets to keep the tonneau fixed on the main body. I will use steel locating pins to fix the position of the tonneau on the main body. Attach the main body to the chassis (6 carriage bolts). Regards, Harm 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Hello Harm, Nice work! I do like the structural strength of your corners. Have you made up your steel support braces for various locations on your body? I am anxious to see how you devise your locating pins and what the mounts will look like. I am certainly making some mental notes for my own future purposes. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Harm, is it 'pin beading' you are looking for? See the link below. Mike https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/115/pin-beading 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) Hello Harm, It looks like Mike has a perfect suggestion for the beading you need. Al Edited January 15, 2020 by alsfarms clarity (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Hello Harm, I am getting "in the mood" for radiator building. So...I revisited page one of this blog and read again of your radiator building project. Would you please put a tape to the copper return bends, you used, and let me know what the center to center measurement is Also, what were the size of the .02 copper sheets that you used to form your fins from? You are correct in your statement that copper sheet is a tad expensive...but doable. I am considering whether to use belled return bends or straight return bends with couplers to connect the tubing to the return bends. One advantage to doing as you have done is you reduce the number of sweated joints by one half. Your response is appreciated if you have the time to revisit this older subject. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdome Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 (edited) The half round wood trim you are looking for is called reed. May also be called rush or cane. It is still available on line or at some craft stores that sell supplies for wicker and basket weaving. The quality is not very good so order twice as much as you need. It is available in 1/8th sizes. I am restoring a body similar to yours and the seats are trimmed with 5/8 and the rear tonneau door is trimmed in 3/8. Sharp 90 degree corners are mitered. You will have to steam reed for 1/2 to 1 Hr. to bend around corners. There are a lot of videos online that will teach you general steam bending. You can make your own half round by planning an ash board down to the desired thickness. Use a 4 inch or wider board you can safely handle. Radius the edge with the proper bit on a router table. Then cut the half round edge off, You will have to steam bend the ash. Ash will be harder to bend than reed. Edited January 15, 2020 by jdome (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 On 1/14/2020 at 8:29 PM, alsfarms said: Hello Harm, Nice work! I do like the structural strength of your corners. Have you made up your steel support braces for various locations on your body? I am anxious to see how you devise your locating pins and what the mounts will look like. I am certainly making some mental notes for my own future purposes. Al Hello Al, Not yet, last two days I cleaned the shop and the tools. All very dusty. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 On 1/15/2020 at 10:13 AM, Mike Macartney said: Harm, is it 'pin beading' you are looking for? See the link below. Mike https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/115/pin-beading Hello Mike, That you for the answer and the link, I contacted Woolies. This is very nice stuff for the trim on the seat edges. Will order it very soon. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 On 1/16/2020 at 12:21 AM, jdome said: The half round wood trim you are looking for is called reed. May also be called rush or cane. It is still available on line or at some craft stores that sell supplies for wicker and basket weaving. The quality is not very good so order twice as much as you need. It is available in 1/8th sizes. I am restoring a body similar to yours and the seats are trimmed with 5/8 and the rear tonneau door is trimmed in 3/8. Sharp 90 degree corners are mitered. You will have to steam reed for 1/2 to 1 Hr. to bend around corners. There are a lot of videos online that will teach you general steam bending. You can make your own half round by planning an ash board down to the desired thickness. Use a 4 inch or wider board you can safely handle. Radius the edge with the proper bit on a router table. Then cut the half round edge off, You will have to steam bend the ash. Ash will be harder to bend than reed. Hello jdome, Thank you for this information. I must admit, I never thought of reed. Called some artist supply shops, no problem, they sell the stuff, but I am warned about the quality. Regards, Harm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 On the bending of wood strips or reed, the airplane guys soak it in an ammonia solution. After a certain time, the wood or reed turns “plastic”, and you can bend it to any shape you want. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sloth Posted January 17, 2020 Author Share Posted January 17, 2020 On 1/15/2020 at 5:17 PM, alsfarms said: Hello Harm, I am getting "in the mood" for radiator building. So...I revisited page one of this blog and read again of your radiator building project. Would you please put a tape to the copper return bends, you used, and let me know what the center to center measurement is Also, what were the size of the .02 copper sheets that you used to form your fins from? You are correct in your statement that copper sheet is a tad expensive...but doable. I am considering whether to use belled return bends or straight return bends with couplers to connect the tubing to the return bends. One advantage to doing as you have done is you reduce the number of sweated joints by one half. Your response is appreciated if you have the time to revisit this older subject. Al Hello Al, The center to center measurement of the copper return bends is 2" (see picture). I used two sheets of 0.02"copper sheet. Sheet dimension 40" x 80". Regards, Harm 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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