Sloth

1903 Cleveland Roadster project

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3 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Hello harm,

Thanks for the kind regards shared by Anna and yourself on our Thanksgiving day.  We do have lots to be thankful for!  I will attache a picture that shows our gray Thanksgiving morning here in Utah.  Good luck your body building project.  I enjoyed your thoughts on wood work and glued joints.  I concur.  Post us a picture when you get to the point that you can of your progress.

Regards,

Alan

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Hello Alan,

Thanks, nice house you have, I like the architectural style. The weather, mmm, looks to me as one of those  "stay in bed with a hot chocolate and good book" days..... Is the snowfall earlier than normal? Tomorrow, I expect to show some visible progress.

Regards,

Harm

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Hello Harm,

I read over your postings from start to finish to see if there was some information that I had overlooked.  Guess what, I was correct in my thinking that I had not taken in all  of your posts.  I see one picture of the painted chassis in your shop that shows the two tanks.  Are these original tanks?  What material and method of fabrication was used to build these tanks?

Regards,

Alan 

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5 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Hello Harm,

I read over your postings from start to finish to see if there was some information that I had overlooked.  Guess what, I was correct in my thinking that I had not taken in all  of your posts.  I see one picture of the painted chassis in your shop that shows the two tanks.  Are these original tanks?  What material and method of fabrication was used to build these tanks?

Regards,

Alan 

 

Hello Alan,

The tanks are not original. I made them several years ago. The material I used is 18 gauge brass sheet. The tank are build by fabricating two sides left and right with 1/2" flanges. I made the flanges 1/2" by using a hard wood pattern to work the brass on. After that I folded the middle piece and rolled the round part on a slip roller machine, I used one long piece of brass. I used a 40" 3 in 1 cheap metal working machine. This machine its a bit flexible, but good enough for my needs. After test fitting I soldered the sides on the middle piece  The outlet parts I turned from brass stock with 1/4" pipe threat in it. See pictures. After the soldering both tanks where water tight, no leaks.

Regards,

Harm

 

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Petrol tank

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Petrol tank bottom view

 

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Water tank side view

 

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Water tank three quarter view

 

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Water tank bottom view

 

 

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Today was a productive day, I started at 7 o'clock. First, inserted the timber at the rear side of the front seat and also fitted the quarter hollow. Took some time to get it right. Further more I made a lot of small adjustments and sawed both side boards. The whole affair took the whole day to finish. Both sides are now less than 1/16" equal to each other, I am happy  with the results 😊. For my wood work I use the same calipers as for the metal work, some friends thinks its way over the top.... I don't think so,  to get the parts dimensional correct, you have to work with tight tolerances. Question to you all, what are your thoughts about this? Tomorrow its gluing time, all the joints and side panels will be glued, and were needed, screwed together.

Regards,

Harm

 

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Detail of inner left side

 

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Detail picture with the quarter hollow

 

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Inside view, right side. Beam for the holding the floor boards is clearly visible.

 

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Front view

 

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Side view, right side

 

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Left side of the body

 

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Hello Harm,

Nice fabrication work on your body base, and you certainly do have a good eye for following best practices.  Keep up the good work!

Al

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I will use calipers to make smaller measurements because it is not only accurate, it is easier for me to read and remember.   You can also zero them on one piece and then quickly get the difference with another... ie; how much it needs to come down by to fit.   That eliminates my math mistakes. :)  I stop short of using micrometers of course. ;)

The one thing I'd love to have from metal work to wood work is Dykem blue.  I have a hard time following the lines my awl leaves in the wood and anything I can see like pencil lines are too thick. 

All in all I do think my wood working accuracy improved some after learning metal work.  I enjoy both a lot.

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18 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said:

I will use calipers to make smaller measurements because it is not only accurate, it is easier for me to read and remember.   You can also zero them on one piece and then quickly get the difference with another... ie; how much it needs to come down by to fit.   That eliminates my math mistakes. :)  I stop short of using micrometers of course. ;)

The one thing I'd love to have from metal work to wood work is Dykem blue.  I have a hard time following the lines my awl leaves in the wood and anything I can see like pencil lines are too thick. 

All in all I do think my wood working accuracy improved some after learning metal work.  I enjoy both a lot.

 

Hello  Luv2Wrench,

I fully agree with you. A kind of Dykem blue usable for wood would be very welcome. I too have problems with the small lines, to be honest I can't hardly see them, so I use a very small pencil line. The problem with this is I have to remember on which side of the line I must saw or mill.

Regards,

Harm

Edited by Sloth
Typo corrected (see edit history)
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Hello gentlemen,

Sorry to disappoint you, no gluing today. Got unexpected visitors, nice, so my planning came to nothing. Well Monday I will start again.

Have a nice weekend,

Harm

Edited by Sloth (see edit history)
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Hello Harm,

We are all in "hot stand-by" just waiting for your next postings that will show the glue up on your body.  We all have lives also, so we do understand that company is a big part of we being human.  Enjoy your weekend, we will catch up next Monday.   🙂

Al

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Hello Harm,  With company gone, (I hope it was good for you and Anna), now you can reside back in the shop working on your Cleveland.  🙂  How has the glue up progressed?  I was thinking, do you have all the pieces of your ignition system?

Al

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2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Hello Harm,  With company gone, (I hope it was good for you and Anna), now you can reside back in the shop working on your Cleveland.  🙂  How has the glue up progressed?  I was thinking, do you have all the pieces of your ignition system?

Al

 

Hello Al,

Company left early in the afternoon, the weather forecast warned for thick fog, and right they where. So yesterday evening, Anna and I started gluing the body parts. Work progressed well, it took us just 3 hours to complete the task. One has to work fast, as the glue sets after 15 minutes.

Regarding the ignition system, I really don't know. I have the timer, but not much else. I have no coil and no switch, I guess there must also be a battery box for 6 standard cells?

Regards,

Harm

 

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Hello Harm,

I have had to build my ignition system using the best practices and technology  available for our vintage.  I will post a picture of the coil box that I built that will accommodate a typical and easy to find coil, (in my case two coils).  I have built up a timer that will fire both my cylinders and have a suitable early coil switch to mount on my new coil box.  Just wondering about your thoughts.

Al

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Yesterday evening Anna and I started gluing the body parts. Work progressed well, it took us just 3 hours to complete the task. One has to work fast, as the glue sets after 15 minutes. This afternoon I sanded the whole body and where applicable routed the edges. Also made the under frame for the front seat. What I nearly forgot: putting small wooden pieces (blocks) under the body frame beams. They will hold the body 5/16" above the steel chassis rails. So this is done to prevent moisture becoming trapped between the steel chassis rails and the body frame beams. Below some pictures.

Regards,

Harm

 

 

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9 minutes ago, alsfarms said:

Hello Harm,

I have had to build my ignition system using the best practices and technology  available for our vintage.  I will post a picture of the coil box that I built that will accommodate a typical and easy to find coil, (in my case two coils).  I have built up a timer that will fire both my cylinders and have a suitable early coil switch to mount on my new coil box.  Just wondering about your thoughts.

Al

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Hello Al,

That is a very nice made box! I guess the ignition box for the two cylinder Cleveland, is mounted on the dash board. For the one cylinder car, it is mounted near the engine, with the switch mounted on a small strip of sheet metal under the passenger side of the front seat, rather primitive and not very convenient. I think that the  2 cylinder car is a much more sophisticated (modern) car than the one cylinder car. This is something I must sort out.

Regards,

Harm

 

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Harm,

You body is very much taking shape and it certainly does look nice and now glued!  What is next, the tonneau, rear deck riser or front "slope nose"?

Al

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11 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Harm,

You body is very much taking shape and it certainly does look nice and now glued!  What is next, the tonneau, rear deck riser or front "slope nose"?

Al

Hello Al,

Next: front seat with its curved backside, dash board and the "slope nosed" hood. The tonneau with the rear door will be last, I must sort out several design issues.... The tonneau is not identical to Cadillac or Ford. (To be honest, the Cleveland body looks like a Cadillac or Ford body, but differs on most dimensions). From the front seat on,  the Cleveland body is totally different. So the tonneau presents me with some headache.

Regards,

Harm

Edited by Sloth
Typo corrected (see edit history)
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Hello Harm,

Now we know what music you are going to be dancing to and will watch with interest!

Al

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Hello Harm,

I am curious, were you able to source the inside quarter round in hardwood or in some type of pine?  I can't tell from your pictures but the fit and application if very fitting.  How is that for a play on words!

Al

Edited by alsfarms
addition for clarity (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, alsfarms said:

Hello Harm,

I am curious, were you able to source the inside quarter round in hardwood or in some type of pine?  I can't tell from your pictures but the fit and application if very fitting.  How is that for a play on words!

Al

Hello Al,

Nicely written!

The quarter round is some kind of pine, I would rather preferred ash. But this is what I only could buy in a small quantity.

Regards,

Harm

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Started this morning with the construction of the slope nosed hood. Made the sides 1"ash boards. After a lot of try and error, got the slopes right (I think but not sure, as I have no comparable model to hand). See pictures. Tomorrow, I will saw the horizontal part, and glue the whole thing together. The pictures show some dimensional distortion. During the writing of this report, I walked two times to the shop to convince myself that the slopes are there, and the sides are similar and have the same tilt 🙄. Won't write down the comment made by my wife, :wacko:. The small slats in the front are temporarily distance keepers.  

Regards,

Harm

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@keizer31, thank you for your kind comment.

 

Yesterday and today, I spend on making the middle part of the hood. I used a flexible kind of plywood, this type of plywood is used mostly by furniture makers. The plywood proved less flexible than I had hoped for. But on the end I got it done. Whats left is rounding the corners, sawing the hatch for the petrol tank and water tank and  fit the quarter round moldings on the lower/bottom sides.  Furthermore, I made the dash board. Slowly, it begins to look like an automobile.

Regards,

Harm

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Hood, left side view

 

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Hood, right side view

Edited by Sloth (see edit history)
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I think your body building project is actually moving along at a very fast speed....not slow at all!  You are being an inspiration for sure.

Al

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On 12/7/2019 at 6:58 PM, alsfarms said:

I think your body building project is actually moving along at a very fast speed....not slow at all!  You are being an inspiration for sure.

Al

 

Thanks Al, I hope to have the front seat ready before Christmas (this year...😄).

Regards,

Harm

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