Jump to content

Value of 1965 GTO


Recommended Posts

I'm kinda on a buying spree. This is the latest I'm looking at buying. 1965 GTO. WT block (4 barrel, not tripower), 4 speed, has a tripower on it & the 4 barrel & correct air cleaner are MIA. All original, one owner, no rust, most of interior is nice, but smells old & musty. What's it worth?

65 gto3.jpg

65 gto4.jpg

65 gto5.jpg

65 gto7.jpg

65 gto2.jpg

65 gto6.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the floor does not give me any confidence and looks like a Sun Super tach in the fourth hole. Later radio (looks like originally had a reverb) and I cannot tell which tripower that is (were several, 66 high deck is best). Wheels look like Buicks. Also need paper work or very close inspections to see if it started in life as a Le Mans (wasn't in VIN in 65). Heck, I cannot even tell if that is a 389, WT without the date code (cast in back of block) does not tell me much, could be a '70 400.

 

BTW just under the hood I see a lot of non-original stuff. To me that would be way under $25k without a really close look.

 

pps 65 was the last year of the small shaft Muncie, 66 and later had the much stronger large shaft.

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I usually work backwards on these analysis, i.e. picture what you want at end of a rebuild. If you want a nice looking daily driver, with new paint and interior, and otherwise mechanically solid and reliable, figure what $$ you will need to spend, add that to sellers asking price and compare total with market price for a similar re-built car. Then see how big a hole you are in. Reduce purchase price until you are not in a hole. My guess is that 10K-12K for this car may keep your head above water. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, Gunsmoke said:

I usually work backwards on these analysis, i.e. picture what you want at end of a rebuild. If you want a nice looking daily driver, with new paint and interior, and otherwise mechanically solid and reliable, figure what $$ you will need to spend, add that to sellers asking price and compare total with market price for a similar re-built car. Then see how big a hole you are in. Reduce purchase price until you are not in a hole. My guess is that 10K-12K for this car may keep your head above water. 

I'm thinking in the same price range. I also kind of work like you described. I look at the car I'm interested in & try to find the same make & model for sale in the condition I would like the one I'm looking at to be in. Then I ask myself, can I get there from here? This is a one owner car & it does have paperwork with it. I think that's a big plus. The items under the hood that are aftermarket or not original are mostly easy to change. I think finding a correct intake, carb, and air cleaner may take a little digging.  The block is a 389, original block, definitely a WT. The tripower doesn't matter a whole lot to me. They look impressive, but I think I'd rather have an original 4 barrel setup to go with the car. The Buick rims don't matter either. It will get Cragar SS's if I own it. Nothing wrong with the floor pans/undercarriage. Carpet & front buckets need to be redone. Not sure if driver door panel will clean up. Passenger door panel & back seat are good. Trunk is mint & has spare & jack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is a spree spend more money. Cruise nights will be starting soon. Find a nice one that someone is driving on a regular basis and try to buy from them. Sitting around, musty cars have a lot of hidden work.

The musty smell usually needs new upholstery to get rid of it. You might get used to it, but you could see a passenger looking for an air leak around the vent window to breathe through. Experience.

 

There is something about a car for sale with rocks or bricks behind the wheels that makes me think of cars for sale pictured on the flatbed hauler, just unsettling. Set the emergency brake while the driver is standing next to you and watch him cringe.

Bernie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see some body panel fit issues - hood, drivers side door for example. Leaves me to think there may have been some disassembly and body work that wasn't completed properly.  They forgot the pinstripe after it was painted.  PHS certificate is important on this one too as there are a lot of made up GTO's from 65.  I'm also looking under the hood and see valve covers from a 400 so check the cylinder heads and ensure they have the proper casting numbers on them.  That original vinyl on the door panels is nearly bullet-proof so will clean up nicely.  As it sits I'm thinking 25K is top dollar if it is all really correct and runs.

Terry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little off topic ...

 

Anyone considering buying a vehicle that is located in Canada ....

 

Make a condition of sale that the Seller deliver the vehicle to a US Border town.

 

That way the vehicle can enter the states without issue.

 

The reason I mention this - I went back & forth picking up vehicles for customers into Canada until a few years ago.

 

The last time I did this - the vehicle I was hauling got quarantined at the US Border crossing for reasons unknown 

to either the Buyer - Seller - me.

 

You can hire a company to do the import paperwork for you - but at the end of the day - it makes sense to me

to have the Seller agree to deliver to a US border crossing as a condition of sale.

 

 

Jim

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Terry Bond said:

I see some body panel fit issues - hood, drivers side door for example. Leaves me to think there may have been some disassembly and body work that wasn't completed properly.  They forgot the pinstripe after it was painted.  PHS certificate is important on this one too as there are a lot of made up GTO's from 65.  I'm also looking under the hood and see valve covers from a 400 so check the cylinder heads and ensure they have the proper casting numbers on them.  That original vinyl on the door panels is nearly bullet-proof so will clean up nicely.  As it sits I'm thinking 25K is top dollar if it is all really correct and runs.

Terry

First remember that ALL 1964 and 65 GTO's are Pontiac LeMans. They are NOT Tempest GTO's or just plain GTO's. All 64-65 GTO's are LeMans with the GTO option so you are looking at a LeMans vin tag. This is why PHS is so important. 

Valve covers. The valve covers on this particular car are incorrect. A 64-65 GTO would use the old style pent roof valve cover. The valve cover shown on the vehicle would be correct on any 1967 ONLY 326, all Pontiac 350 ( really a 355 ) all 400, all 428, and all 455. They are also used on the short deck 301 and 265.

Check the rt hand front of the block for identification and check the cylinder head casting #. located in the middle of the head on the middle exhaust ports.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are other ways to tell I will not go into but the best answer is either an original window sticker (can tell repops also) or better a PHS build sheet. I would not buy a Pontiac built since 1958 without calling Jim first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, padgett said:

There are other ways to tell I will not go into but the best answer is either an original window sticker (can tell repops also) or better a PHS build sheet. I would not buy a Pontiac built since 1958 without calling Jim first.

PHS records are from 1961 model year. Records before this were destroyed in a fire.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

 

 

On 3/31/2019 at 10:02 PM, Pfeil said:

PHS records are from 1961 model year. Records before this were destroyed in a fire.

Was there another fire in the early 70's that burned up the records for the 69-72 Chevelles?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

George, as mentioned here by others, you really have to inspect the car from nose to tail. You need to get this car off the grass and on a lift to check what is underneath. The brick under the rear wheel does not instill confidence. The car looks fairly worn out,   sagging door, musty smell , looks like the carpet is part of that smell,  hood needs alignment. There are a whole host of questions to  be asked.  Does it run? What does the oil look like? How long has been sitting there? $25,000.00 is a lot of wood to spent on that car in that condition. And keep in mind , we are looking at pictures, which is usually better than what is to be seen in person. Hope this helps. Good luck in whatever you do. Thanks. John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You chose not to hear what I rote. Yes PHS "officially" starts at  1961 but know that Jim, John, and Fred had data that went back earlier, why I said "I'd call". This is a 65 anyway. Have to use care that this is not a clone.

 

And the market dropped significantly sice a year ago. Around here nothing is selling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, padgett said:

You chose not to hear what I rote. Yes PHS "officially" starts at  1961 but know that Jim, John, and Fred had data that went back earlier, why I said "I'd call". This is a 65 anyway. Have to use care that this is not a clone.

 

And the market dropped significantly sice a year ago. Around here nothing is selling.

 

Agree that the market is much different than a year ago.   The last 12 months of public auction results were for the most part very poor across almost all sectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...