Ford 8N sputter and die

[windfall]

Hi folks - got a '52 Ford 8N 

Tractor starts up fine. Runs well for a minute or few. Then sputters and will die if I don't choke it, but still lurches before quitting. Let it sit for a bit and the routine continues as such. Thinking it's a gas flow problem, gravity fed, I clean the float bowl and fuel filter; gas runs fine, although the float bowl does leak somewhat. (have a replacement)

 

But wonder if, when heated up, there might be an electrical problem, such as cracked plug or wire or somesuch. But if the latter is true, why would it start and run fine without hiccups for a bit? Gas tank was replaced last winter.

 

Carb issue? Can probably take it off and have cleaned/rebuilt, but, again, pain in arse. Yer thoughts, wrenchfolk?

[TerryB]

Sure sounds like it’s fuel, is the fuel tank vent blocked? 

[Fleek]

Could be some trash in the tank that is not letting enough gas thru, then when it sets a few minutes enough gas gets by to run. or the trash floats to the side for a short time. Was the tank properly cleaned and sealed when it was installed?

[JACK M]

If choking it helps it pretty much rules out ignition.

HOWEVER, a faulty condenser or coil can sure seem like a fuel problem.

Why don't you take the new fuel tank out of the system by using a boat tank hooked directly to the carburetor.

Edited October 1, 2018 by JACK M (see edit history)

[mercer09]

I had one and it had about a gallon of fuel in it and did the same thing. spent a few hours going through it.

 

finally put another 3 gallons in it and it fired right up! Pickup was a little high in the tank........

[PFitz]

Pulling the choke has no affect on the ignition system, so keep checking the fuel feed. If it's a tank vent problem, see how it runs with the gas cap off.  

 

Paul

[Bhigdog]

Fuel flow problem. If you've established good flow to the carb next logical place to check is the carb. At least they are accessible and simple.........Bob

[Jim Bollman]

When my 8N starts running a little rough I either dump some Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas if I think I have a valve sticking a little or SeaFoam if I think it is a carburetor problem. So far I have had a 100% success over 35+ years of using it as a tractor not a collectors item.

[Frantz]

Pretty easy to rig up a bottle to the carb and bypass the fuel tank. If it runs on the bottle then the tank is the issue. Pretty common. If that's the case... clean it out good with vinegar or something and then reseal with the POR 15 tank sealer. I did that on my IH 240 a few years ago and it hasn't been a problem since. Same with my brothers Triumph Spitfire. 

If not tank, than sediment in the carb would be my next bet.

Edited October 2, 2018 by Frantz (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

If your 52 is like my 47 (yep, very early production, no proof meter, front mounted distributor), the fuel strainer is screwed into the bottom of the fuel tank and has a tubular brass screen on it to filter the fuel into the bowl. There is also a brass tube inside this screen. The primary exit of fuel into the bowl is through the long (1" or so) brass tube. The "reserve" fuel exit is a round hole still covered by the tubular brass screen, but at a lower level than the brass tube. Correct operation is to open the fuel bowl valve ONE turn, fuel flows through the brass tube to the bowl. When it runs of of fuel, open the valve all the way (reserve tank for you Beetle owners of the 50s, early 60s) , and fuel flows through the bottom hole into the bowl. So you can get back to the barn to fill the tank back up.

 

If yours is like mine was, when you unscrew the fuel strainer assembly from the tank, the brass screen will be missing and the bottom holed plugged with rust/sediment!

 

I cleaned my tank and used Red Kote.

 

If original carburetor, rebuild kit is on shelf at Tractor Supply. Easy to clean. 

 

I have opened the mixture screw when it bogs down, means it needs rebuilding/ cleaning debris, but, hey, this is working so far.......?

[D Yaros]

I have seen having an incorrect gas cap (non-vented vs. vented) create the circumstances described in the OP.

[Frank DuVal]

It (non-vented cap) also can suck in a tank, rendering it smaller capacity of fuel. 

 

OK, the cap does not suck in the tank, but allows the fuel pump to suck it in.?

 

But, no fuel pump on an 8N, so no collapsed thank will result here.

[Friartuck]

Have you determined the float is not submerging? Older brass floats can become porous and allow gas to seep through the walls into it thus making it float at an incorrect level.