George Smolinski Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 I'm thinking about buying the '38 Ford in the photos. It "runs" --- but stuck valves. Never messed with a flathead. What needs to be done to correctly unstick the valves. The operative word there is "correctly". I only have the 2 photos, but would anyone hazard a guess as to a fair price? Thanks in advance for any advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleek Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 What kind of headlight conversion does it have? Have the fenders been modified any to accommodate this setup? Has the rear lights been modified too? Is the car still 6 volt? Other than that it looks pretty good in the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Walling Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Original MSRP Low Retail Average Retail High Retail Base Price $725 $7,025 $10,900 $17,700 Ford two door Tudor. NADA prices These prices are subject to interpretation, in other words, best guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Sealed beam headlights came along in 1940. You could buy conversion kits for late model cars to put in sealed beams, looks like that is what he has. It is a contemporary accessory that does not devalue the car but of course you could put the old bulb headlights back in if you prefer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 it looks like the car has some early after market dress up items added. As mentioned, the headlight trim, also the markers on the front fender tops, the grill guard and perhaps the hood ornament. You say the car runs but has stuck valves. If the valve is frozen in the guide and the spring can't close it, you may have to pull the heads and intake. Flathead Ford's are fairly easy to repair. The valve and guide comes out as an assembly. There are special tools available to remove the "valve cartridge" but it can be done without them. What is at the asking price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Smolinski Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 1 hour ago, 46 woodie said: What is at the asking price? $4500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 $4500 and it's not in your driveway yet?!?!?! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 If I would have found this, this would be a thread about my most recent score. You better get it before a rodder ruins it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 It is a 1938 STANDARD, hood stainless trim differs from the DELUXE. Hoods and grills differ between the two, and I believe the front fenders are unique to the two different models. Looks to be a Tudor, would make a nice period Hot Rod. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 The Standard IMO was a much nicer looking car than the Deluxe that year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 A few more pictures of the engine and interior would help, but as others have suggested, $4500 sounds like a good deal. Looks like you will need a windshield, but I would do the motor repairs and drive it as a survivor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 (edited) The stuck valve problem may be as easy as removing the heads and tapping the valves down a few times along with squirting some penetrating oil like MMO around the valve stems from the top. Spin the engine over a few times repeating tapping and oiling and so on. Sounds like it's be sitting a while and run with old gas. A thorough fuel tank and system cleaning is in order. Edited March 3, 2018 by Bleach (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Dobbin Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 All good advice here, And why haven't you bought it yet? '"You snooze, you looze" is the old saying. Seems it could apply here. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 And after you purchase the car, join the V-8 Ford Club of America. The Club also offers a book specifically for your car, tons of info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Smolinski Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 3 hours ago, Paul Dobbin said: All good advice here, And why haven't you bought it yet? '"You snooze, you looze" is the old saying. Seems it could apply here. Seller is out of town. Told him I want it. He will call me next week to discuss details. Right now his & my schedules don't mesh. He will also send me more photos when he's back in town & takes them. What are usual rust issues with these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 The rear chassis kickup area collects dirt and moisture and rots, check the cable brakes too. If it was upgraded to hydraulic brakes that is a good thing. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pomeroy41144 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 On 3/3/2018 at 8:18 AM, Fleek said: What kind of headlight conversion does it have? Have the fenders been modified any to accommodate this setup? Has the rear lights been modified too? Is the car still 6 volt? Other than that it looks pretty good in the pics. That was a popular conversion in the 40s and 50s. No modifications to the fenders needed. The headlights can easily be restored to original equipment / configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Dobbin Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Floors, bottom of doors and trunk all rust. This car looks like mostly dry storage for the last 80 years. for that price you can do a lot of fixing. Good Luck. Join us in the Early Ford V8 Forums and get another V8 back on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMoneyPit Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 I agree with the opinions above, even if the interior is a little tattered you can do an awful lot of work when you start at that price for any of the pre-war Ford V8's... if I had found it, I would just get her running right, then I'd cover the seats with a blanket and toss the dogs in for a fun ride once the salt is off our roads that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now