GaryP65 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I saw this unit on Ebay and was wondering if anyone can tell me if it is correct for my 25 sedan. Seller says he doesn't see where there is a mounting bracket but maybe one of you expects can tell me if its mountable. One photo shows the model number as well. Check it out - http://www.ebay.com/itm/131874786838 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 I would think it not to difficult to make a mount to two or more of those long screws on the middle where the cone hooks to the body of the thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 Not sure if it's the exact correct horn for your 25 or not It is missing the mounting bracket that fits where the unit is joined I think that the bracket mounts under 2 of the head nuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 But is it acceptable for this car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 You might also try contacting this fellow through eBay: "eBay Member: larryr3156" <larryr_itwl2245oa@members.ebay.com> I bought a Klaxon from him several years ago that he had rebuilt and it looked almost mint, for less than the one you're looking at. It was part of the original listing, but Larry even threw in a restored bracket (complete with new rubber mounts!) for free. He doesn't have any horns listed right now, but maybe he has what you're after on the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 15, 2016 Author Share Posted August 15, 2016 3 hours ago, Phil 32DL6 said: You might also try contacting this fellow through eBay: "eBay Member: larryr3156" <larryr_itwl2245oa@members.ebay.com> I bought a Klaxon from him several years ago that he had rebuilt and it looked almost mint, for less than the one you're looking at. It was part of the original listing, but Larry even threw in a restored bracket (complete with new rubber mounts!) for free. He doesn't have any horns listed right now, but maybe he has what you're after on the shelf. Ebay responded with 'unable to deliver your message' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 18 minutes ago, GaryP65 said: Ebay responded with 'unable to deliver your message' eBay is getting much more security conscience these days. Since you seem to be interested, try following this link to his personal page and see if you can send him a message from there. Hopefully it may be worth the extra effort for you. He's a great guy to work with...answered all of my questions right away with great advice. http://www.ebay.com/usr/larryr3156 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 (edited) Had a nice back and forth via ebay mail with him. Unfortunately, he is out of the business but gave me some good insight to horns. He favors Hutchins for their 'true' 3 tone. Since I have no experience with this I never paid attention to the sound in the past. What does the Klaxon sound like? Is it a 3 note? If acceptable I will make a reasonable offer to the eBay'r. Edited August 16, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 39 minutes ago, GaryP65 said: What does the Klaxon sound like? Is it a 3 note? If acceptable I will make a reasonable offer to the eBay'r. I don't know about Hutchins horns, but I believe that Klaxon may be more like what originally came on your car. My Klaxon (a different model original to my '32) has a simple, loud "beep." Nothing fancy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 There is a thread somewhere else (General Discussion?) about a '25 sedan. They posted a photo of the engine room. The horn looks a lot like the one you are asking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayG Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Here's the horn and bracket on my 25 roadster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 Just remeber there are 12 volt horns and there are 6 volt horns out there and they look alike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted August 17, 2016 Share Posted August 17, 2016 I have a Klaxon on my '25 and although it's not correct (they used Northeast horns), it has the kind of aaaoooogah sound that fits with the car. Mine is a 6 volt but a resistor in series fixed that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 18, 2016 Share Posted August 18, 2016 If you want an Oogha horn make sure it has two electrical terminals so it's not grounded through the horn. I bought a dandy 12V on ebay (not a Klaxon) but didn't notice the single wire connection so I wound up making a non-conductive "plate" on which to mount the horn. But it IS loud!....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 I bought the one I saw on Ebay at a reduced price. I figured since it was a NE unit, what the hell. At this point, I don't care if it say ooga or move out of my way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) So I guess the next question is how is it hooked up? I have no wires and apparently need to run new ones. The books don't say anything about this. Does the steering wheel have to be removed? Edited August 18, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Hi Gary There will be a power feed from the Bat point on the terminal block on the fire wall to the horn and the other wire goes from the horn to the horn button on the steering column I am not familiar with the 4 cylinder cars as to whether the wheel has to be removed to access the horn collector ring or not With my 2249 Senior it is accessible without removing the wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 (edited) I'm thinking I do because right below the throttle/spark advance unit, there is a hump that looks in line with the screw of the collector ring. That combined with hollow down tube of the steering column leads me to believe the wheel needs to come off and the wires fished down to the engine bay. If so, then my next question is this: Do I run only one wire from the ring to the horn and the other grounded to the engine? I'm asking this while at work so I don't have the book in front of me. Edited August 19, 2016 by GaryP65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I don't know this car but usually the wire in the column makes a ground when pushed. I will most likely provide a ground to a relay which in turn will supply the voltage to the horn. The relay will handle the amperage better than going direct to the horn ground. You can Google how to wire up a relay or it will be in your manual if the car was so equipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgedh2 Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Here's an earlier thread on a "23 horn wiring question. Maybe this will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 On 8/19/2016 at 8:25 AM, JACK M said: I don't know this car but usually the wire in the column makes a ground when pushed. I will most likely provide a ground to a relay which in turn will supply the voltage to the horn. The relay will handle the amperage better than going direct to the horn ground. You can Google how to wire up a relay or it will be in your manual if the car was so equipped. I have to eat my words here. A couple of hours after I made this post I was working on a 67 Dodge pick up. The horn has two wires to it, one is hot and the other goes directly to the horn button to make a ground. It was easy to determine that the horn itself is the culprit. There is no relay on this set up which surprised me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 I see how it gets 'hooked up', but how do I fed the wire through the column to connect it to the collector? It looks like the wheel has to come off but then how do you get the collector off so you can attach the wire?!!! HELP! all ready to get this done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) The wheel must come off. The horn button creates a ground which completes the circuit....... OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOgah LOL Edited August 21, 2016 by cahartley (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 Yes but how the hell do I get the collector off so I can run the wire into the hollow of the column?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 The steering wheel HAS to come off first. Under the steering wheel hub is a phenolic spacer/insulator under which is the collector. The pointy shaft under the horn button makes and breaks the connection to ground to sound the horn. The collector ring is round and there is a spring loaded pin which turns with the steering wheel. Just inside from the vacuum tank is a hole in the fire wall through which some wires pass one of which is from the horn. On the top side of the steering column, just behind the column support bracket is a hole on the top side though which the wire is threaded up the inside of the column to the collector ring. It's much easier to start from the wheel. Push a wire down the column, capture it with a bent wire and you'll be close to down town....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 What I'm not getting is HOW do I push a wire down the column when I can even get the ring off? Don't I have to get the wire to this point on the photo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 (edited) Sumting is different between my '24 and your '25....... I have no idea what that "collar" is left of the collector housing. Whatever it is needs to come off after which the collector will pull right off if you loosen the screw which holds the horn wire captive unless you can gently pull some wire along with it. In my first photo the green you see is a nylon washer I had to make to isolate the steering wheel hub from the collector assembly. The second photo is just another view. I don't know what's going on with that collar thing....... Edited August 21, 2016 by cahartley (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 What is that piece to the left of the black collector ring in your photo? it looks like that needs to come up or off before you can get the black collector ring up to get a wire down the central tube. If you clean it up a bit and look carefully maybe there is a way to get it off? What is the wee hole in it? Is there a pin in there that holds it in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 That is quite strange. My '25 also does not have the collar above the phenolic piece. Perhaps this was part of something aftermarket added to the car at some time (blinker switch?). If you do manage to get it off of there (maybe with a small 3 jaw puller), it would appear you would end up with a 1/2" or so gap between installed steering wheel and phenolic. If so, this would suggest either a longer steering shaft was used (from a different year DB?) or the steering shaft is not engaged to the normal depth on the steering gearbox connector. A photo of that might confirm the latter scenario. If this turns out to be some sort of aftermarket add-on, I would replace the steering shaft with a good used one. I don't like the idea of a hole drilled through where it doesn't belong on such a safety critical component or at least have it checked for cracks (magnaflux). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 I tried to use a puller but it seems the collar is part of the shaft. So I figured out the the shaft needs to be disconnected from the gear box and pulled out alittle (it was seated al the way in). That did the trick. I fed the wire thru and put it all back together. Once I connected the last wire to the ammeter, the dam thing started to blar. I wonder if because I don't have the nylon, could that be why it goes off? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Something is making contact besides the horn button. I have a hunch the same thing has happened to yours as did with mine which is why I had to make the green nylon washer to electrically isolate the steering wheel hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 I tend to agree with you so I did the same, but still blaring away! I pulled the collector off its seat and when I connected the wire to the ammeter, nothing, no sound which is what I expected so I thought maybe it's the tiny bit of wire showing and corrected that. Didn't do the trick. started blaring again. Can the collector go bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 The collector must be totally isolated from the ground as the horn button provides the ground. Maybe something is funky with the button? Unscrew (remove) the button, put the juice to it and see what happens. If nothing happens turn in the button and see how that werks....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 By the way........aren't you about half deaf yet?....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Unfortunately, I have been working this whole time with the button off!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 OUCH........since that is the case SUMTING is grounding out. Maybe it's the HORN?....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 And how do I confirm that? Remember, electrically challenge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Remove the horn from the bracket, or remove the bracket from the engine, and lay it on a piece of cardboard to isolate it from any iron. Is it possible something is making contact on the bottom side of the collector or a frayed wire gumming up the works? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 (edited) I hope this is of some help. There are a few things wrong with your assembley. The steel ring on top of your reluctor ring is actually part of the steering column shaft, the reluctor ring, (or what ever you want to call it) belongs on top of that.You need to remove the steering column shaft completely, slide the ring off of the bottom of the shaft, and reinstall your column shaft then reinstall the ring on top of the shaft. The biggest problem is that you are missing your spring clip with the grounding pin. I've included a photo showing the order of assembly minus the steering wheel. Below the shaft you can see the spring clip with shorting pin. When you press the horn button, the taper on the end of the button shaft pushes the head of the shorting pin out against the inside of the reluctor ring, earthing the horn circuit, and as the motor in the horn speeds up and you get aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhooooooooooo, release the button and you get , ggaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. I hope this helps. Sounds like your horn is working perfectly, that's a huge step in itself. If you can't find a horn bracket, I can make a copy of mine for you, unfortunately I can't help you with the spring clip with the shorting pin. Edited August 27, 2016 by rameses32 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Nothing like a good exploded parts photo to explain what's going on. I had mine apart 3 - 4 years ago and didn't take photos so I'll be saving this one. Myers or Romar might have the bits you need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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