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they didn't even let the bleed water get off it before they did what troweling they did to it. That makes me sick that they took advantage of the fact you couldn't be there to over see it. I doubt you had anything in writing related to specs for smoothness etc but that is simply not acceptable for any finish of concrete. Did they even put a power trowel on it, that looks like a wood float finish, not even broomed.  I hate to ask but have you paid them. If not and there was no contract, first ensure they paid for the concrete (you don't want the concrete company coming after you) then hold payment until they remedy it. There is a possibility it can be ground smooth but that is difficult to do right, Have you laid a 10 ft straight edge over it to see if there are high and low spots. 1/8 " is good but should be absolutely no more than 1/4" in a 10 ft run.

You can rent a small concrete saw with blade and I suggest you go ahead and do that as the weather is turning cold and that concrete is going to start contracting.

Again man, so sorry to see what they left you with. But hey it's got to be better than dirt and gravel.

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i always thought the control joints were done when the concrete is still wet, firm but still wet, not after it has already set up and hardened.

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In sidewalks, driveways and other exterior flat work control joints are typically tooled in with a jointer and are about 1/2" wide but on interior slabs they are most often cut in with a concrete saw and give a smooth surface

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Cool!!!

and like that screen door too.

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So I paid for the concrete separately. But yes, I paid these guys just before I went back to the office. I've found other buyers, on craigslist who have used this contractor and had similar experiences.  We have all filed BBB complaints.  One guy has a 5 day old driveway that he paid 10k for and it's already cracked.  He has contacted the local news consumer watch segment.     To have been in business for 35 years, I guess he must be getting bad in his later career....

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Cut my first control joint.... 1.25"deep in 5"slab. I had a nice straight line but it was hard to follow with the saw.....

20161020_190255.jpg

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I've seen worse, a lot,lot worse. cut by "pros" at that. Good job Matt

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Thanks Mr. Earl.  It is admittedly hard to run the electric saw and water hose at the same time!  (don't tell my boss that the company safety man does this stuff in his free time) HA HA HA

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Tha's what ground fault breakers are for, right?  

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You can lay a 1 X 4 on the floor, pile weights on each end, that will help with cutting straight line, I wouldn't TRUST a ground fault, PERSONALLY,  water and electric current don't respect each other.  The blade is going to pick up the water, and throw it where is isn't 'GOOD', IMO

 

The 1 X 4 will also give you control of depth.

 

Coming along,

 

Dale in Indy

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1 hour ago, smithbrother said:

You can lay a 1 X 4 on the floor, pile weights on each end, that will help with cutting straight line, I wouldn't TRUST a ground fault, PERSONALLY,  water and electric current don't respect each other.  The blade is going to pick up the water, and throw it where is isn't 'GOOD', IMO

 

The 1 X 4 will also give you control of depth.

 

Coming along,

 

Dale in Indy

The 1x4 is a great idea I just set the depth of my saw but the 1x4 would still help me keep a straighter line

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Finished my control joints... next weekend makes one month curing, so I'm going to use sealer/densifier on it... then the first project rolls in..... unfortunately not a Buick yet, gotta replace the engine in my truck (480k miles) so I can haul more Buick stuff!

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Cool! Can you get a shot of the manufacturing plates? I assume it runs? Going inside or?  I've still got to build a small shed on the back side of the garage for mine.

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Tough old compressor.  If you need to change the motor a 3-5 hp will be required since the current ratings are "optimistic"... a new 1.5 hp might pump it to 60 psi before thermal shutdown.

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3 hours ago, old-tank said:

Tough old compressor.  If you need to change the motor a 3-5 hp will be required since the current ratings are "optimistic"... a new 1.5 hp might pump it to 60 psi before thermal shutdown.

Wow!   I thought it'd be the other way around.  Darn thing runs smooth, and is quiet. anyone have a guess on the year of this thing?

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)

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On ‎11‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 8:37 AM, wndsofchng06 said:

Runs great!  See attached, several plates, no year.

 

20161119_083230.jpg

 

 

 

I have driven by the old DeVilbiss plant in Toledo many times.  It is next to I-75 that goes through Toledo.

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Was sitting around the shop drinking beer and solving world problems with some friends.  Shop is dirty and jenky, just how I like it, though soon I'll need a bigger one. Took a few photos...See last one, already built a lean-to for the compressor, lawnmower will go here also.

20170101_150958.jpg

 

Edited by wndsofchng06
More photos (see edit history)

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On ‎11‎/‎18‎/‎2016 at 6:30 PM, wndsofchng06 said:

 Got a new - to- me air compressor.  it's an old school devibliss and a real work of art.

WP_20161107_20_58_47_Pro.JPG

WP_20161107_20_59_28_Pro.JPG

 

 

I have one similar to that and who knows how old.  It has a 3hp motor GE motor that runs on 460volt/ 3phase electric.  Came with the building that my wife and I purchased a number of years ago. The building already had the 460 volt/3ph electrical service

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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